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Sounds like the guy I bought Fairey plans off - the templates were very poorly traced and pretty much useless and as you say he even had the cheek to claim copyright! Copyright for what, there is no design involved on his behalf, what a joker!
If they are the same set that I bought, the drawings of the parts are not very accurate. The person put there name to them, and claimed copy right, and I am pretty sure the current manufacturers willactual hold the rights.
Hi canabus, could you please tell me what brushless motor's you have in your, Sea Hornet,Sea Commander and Sea Queen pelese. I have all three of these as well. Somewhere down the line I will be converting those to brushless. I don't understand all the electrical data myself. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico and she is awesome on the water at full speed. I have purchased the same motor and speed controller as what is in her to put in a new MFA Spearfish that I still have on the shelf in my work shed. I look forward to your set up's.
Hi Andy Slightly more power with a brushless motor is a no go!!! Brushless motors the same size are far more powerful !!! But, the about same RPM a Turnigy L5055-700kv(500 rpm more on a 4S(14.8 volts) Lipo battery would be a good replacement. Mind you at 1600 watts( about 2 and 1/4 HP) these will used in a large boat like a 46" Vosper Crash Tender or a 46" Sea Queen!!! My move into brushless motors I have found that they are 7 to 10 times more powerful and equal to, if not better than the old IC motors!!! My Sea Hornet, Sea Commander and Huntsman run brushless motors . My Crash Tender is getting the 5055 motor, so it will be interesting to see what it will go like!!
Yes some more recent models, predominantly made for racing do have moulded rails along the bottom. Two reasons, one to add strength, especially if of thin material and secondly to provide lateral stability at the high speeds encountered. When the Aerokits were designed in around 1960s plastic was not commonly available to hobbyists and models were designed using wood/plywood and the originals did not even have spray rails fitted. The running gear was also heavy and bulky resulting in much heavier models than are possible today so the hulls did not plane so easily and the rails were not needed for most models. Technology can now turn out hulls in bulk using extruded and formed plastic and the rails add to the strength to help keep the shape. You can see this on most plastic packaging used for consumer items
My Sea Commander "Jaydee" has spray rails about 3/16th inch square. Have a look at the Aerokits photo gallery. There is a picture of it out of the water and some in action. I believe rails are a must for stability in the turns when going at speed as well as helping lift the boat onto plane. Ian
Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. If your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.
Hi Jarvo The prop shaft that you mention is the type I was looking at, Deans Marine was at Mobile MarineModels yesterday, unfortunately they did not have the 18" prop shaft or would have bought. Will look at changing angle though. Thanks