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Model Boats Website Team
March 2018: 10 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 3 people
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊
Thank's RNinMunich, Dave M, canabus, reilly4. for the information you have added in your post's. That will be very helpful for me with a couple of boats I am hoping to get set up in the future with brushless motors. An Aeorokits Sea Commander, Sea Queen and an MFA Spearfish.
[Score: 8/10] 27" Sea Queen Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a 12V electric (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through XL5 Traxxas (5Amps) ESC - Comments: I did a build log a few months ago & she had her pond tryouts on Nov. 9 2017 . It was a very chilly day but I always like to put a little Rum on my models before first sail & fortunately I had a little rum left over to take the chill off . I always try to put a penny in my models for the year it was built no more pennies in Canada & now it's a nickel which I could not find because of our Centennial year so used a loonie .
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
The Sea Commander and others from the 1960s all seem to lack any real waterline. Primarily they were designed to race round the sailing waters whilst runing a IC engine and were not normally static the water unlike today. We have several in our club and I have attached a few pics. The Tarpon was a similar model and the waterline is shown on the example. Two shots of my Sea Queen at rest and at low speed. The propshaft adjustment from the original design is minimal, really just lowering the angle to allow the motor to sit lower whilst allowing the prop to clear the hull. On all my models I fit the shaft in a slot in the keel and make good with Car Body filler (Plastic Padding). This avoids the possibility of twisting or bending the shaft when fitting in a tight slot. Merry Christmas and I hope Santa brings you all you desire.
BRAVO ZULU! I CAN RELATE, MY LATE FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT INB THE 60S & 70S. HIS BUDDIES COMMISSIONED HIM TO BUILD THEIR KITS BECAUSE HE HAD A GREAT HABIT OF OVERBUILDING. IF THEY MISSED THE LANDING, THE PLANES WOULD LIVE TO FLY AGAIN! MY DAD WASN'T A GOOD PILOT, SO HE HAD OTHERS FLY HIS AIRPLANES. I BUILD MY BOATS IN SIMILAR FASHION. OVERBUILD!
Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages. Supplies were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and cascamite resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and supplies that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.
Hi Guys I have a PDF copy of the original Aerokits plans, but, it has no frames. With a few measurements I think the frames can be got for these plans. I did this on the Sea Hornet plans. So if you guys require the original plans PM me. Canabus
Sounds like the guy I bought Fairey plans off - the templates were very poorly traced and pretty much useless and as you say he even had the cheek to claim copyright! Copyright for what, there is no design involved on his behalf, what a joker!