All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
April 2017: 21 people March 2017: 9 people February 2017: 12 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people
Hi Allan The motor and ESC seem well matched which points to the prop being too coarse a pitch. You have a large scale boat not a fast racing boat and I suggest you replace the prop with a brass three blade of 35-40mm. As we have suggested a wattmeter will help you determine which is the most suitable for your set up. My Sea Queen with a similar set up (40mm brass prop) draws 30 amp at full speed so well within your ESC and motor spec. I see you have water cooling and am wondering if this is working correctly. You should see a good flow of water from the exit port at all but the lowest speeds. The inlet scoop should be immediately behind and facing the prop with a good straight pipe run to the ESC and motor cooling points. Dave
Hi Chris Sounds like it was an IC model. That black stuff is ply impregnated with nitro fuel. I have a copy of the original plan but it was intended more as a building guide for the pre-cut parts. All Aerokits followed the same basic design and had a ply keel running the entire length of the keel. Vertical formers attached to the keel were skinned with thin plysheets. The oil usually seeps down along the keel from the inside and causes the ply to delaminate. You can usually get away with removing just the damaged parts and replacing with new ply wood. If you can do that and fill any dents etc with plastic padding followed by a covering and Eze-Kote it should be solid and watertight. I am attaching some pics of a hull I acquired for the 48" Crash Tender in a part (badly) built state. The last pic is of my Sea Queen hull after stripping for comparison. You can clearly see how the gunge can get into the wood grain especially if it was not treated with Eze-Cote inside. I have many more pics of various Aerokits restorations so if you would like copies I will share via Dropbox. Just send me a pm with your email and I will send you the link (it's all free) Dave
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave
Hi I have 3 working, 2 building, 2 restoration projects,1 maybe(I cutout the frames and keel) and plans of the Sea Queen, Sea Rover and would like to rebuild the Sea Hornet, but, 25% larger!! How many will never get built in the 64 dollar question!!!!!
Hi Colin There should be a ali plate with each motor and screws (countersunk). Attach the plate to the motor then fashion an angled metal plate with a hole to fit the ali plate, drill holes to attach with bolts (threadlocked) and mount to the hull. I have attached some pics of my crash tender and the sea queen. The latter uses a water cooled ali plate supported by two side brackets. Dave
Keith I have just seen your post re the Phoenix. If this is the model then I suspect the prop is perhaps too large for the brushless motor which will be struggling to reach max revs. Net result will be high current and short run times. If you can get or borrow a watt meter this will tell you the current draw and watts whilst holding and running the boat in water. Trying different size props will identify the best match. Personally I dont use s type 2 blade racing props on my models with brushless as they tend to be too coarse pitch. A good 3 blade brass prop will give realistic speed and long running times. My Sea Queen has a similar motor to yours and gives me about 45 mins if I run at full throttle. Pic attached of the model and setup. I also have a 34" Crash tender with a similar setup so some pics attached Dave
Hi Grandpa I agree with the advice Mark has already given, but would add that the large keel you seem to be adding will make the model difficult to turn. A simple infill from the keel to the shaft will give you all the strength you need without altering the handling characteristics. I usually use a piece of hard balsa to make a fillet. Gouge a slot where it sits on the shaft and epoxy in place. Cover with tissue or cloth coated with sanding sealer or resin. I am attaching a pic of my Sea Queen which shows the skeg. There is a small flared keel forrard of the skeg but this is part of the original design of this fast planing hull. You could add a short flared keel forrard of your shaft for say an inch or two but not to the full depth. Good luck and please share the end result Dave
There are acetate sheets available for modellers. Many of my earlier Aerokit models used this but over the years the UV light causes the acetate to turn yellow. I have some more recent supplies that could be acrylic. I have never seen any with tinting. From my own experience some plastic takes to spilt ink etc very well so you may be able to tint your own with a very weak Dylon type tint. Commercially photographic studios use acrylic plastic sheets which are UV safe. If you can source a supply that is thin enough for the scale of the model you are building this works well. I have used on my Sea Queen to good effect as it is the same thickness as the plywood frame.
Hi Simon We use the Hobbyking 35mm brushless 3639-1100kv motor(no water cooling), 60 Amp car ESC (HK-60A SL) with the program card ,Zippy Compact 3300.3S.25C and prop 2 blade 40mm. I am using this setup in my Sea Commander, but, I use a 5800mah battery as it is a little bit bigger boat. I also have the little Sea Hornet with a 28mm brushless motor. I have the Sea Rover, Sea Hornet, Swordsman and Sea Queen plans on PDF. Canabus
[Score: 8/10] 46"/3600g Boaty Mcboaty Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a Jp EnerGpro (2 Blade S Type) Controlled Through Jp EnerGpro (100Amps) ESC - Comments: I am building a Aerokits Sea Queen, I intend initially using a 12v lead acid and maybe going to 24v when sorted ,I am about half way at the moment and looking forcan Easter launch date , I like working with wood rather than plastic and much prefer the older more traditional style boats If anyone is interested I am having a clear out of all my other boats to raise funds for new projects and space Please feel free to contact me if your interested , Iam getting flak from the sub - Lieutenant
Thats a very nice boat, enjoyed the video, thank you for posting it,Im just getting started with boats and enjoy seeing vids of them in action. Would like to have a go at building one when I have more time, thanks again 😀 😀
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: In have just started construction and found bulkhead 2/3 missing , but have found bulkhead 3/4 x 2 !!!! I am going to uild slowly because of time pressures and thought I might startvwith th e standard set up and get the boat sorted Maybe go to brushless and gradually increase speed . Good or bad idead ? Terry
Hi Brian I am not sure which model you are referring to but your description of period photos suggests it is from the late 1930's and yes they were not a planing hull. Does your model have one or two props? A few pics of the model would help, you can upload by clicking the yellow box to the left of this input panel. Brushless can be a bit daunting at first experience but they are not difficult to use once you are familiar. You will already have seen they have three input wires and these need to be connected to an individual Brushless ESC for each motor. Doesn't matter which wired connect to which socket on the ESC but if your prop spins the wrong way you can swop any two connections to change the directiopn. The kv rating refers to the unloaded speed of the motor for every volt you apply so for say a 1000kv motor supplied with 11.1volts the motor would spin at 11100 revs. There are two types of brushless motor "in-runners" and "out-runners". This refers to the construction used with in-runners generally being less bulky. The outrunners will produce more tork and can be more suited to slower speeds. If you need to water cool the in-runners have a jacket fitted around the motor body whilst the out-runners use a water cooled mounting attached to the bearing. Both are suitable but I personally prefer Out-runners. For your model I suspect an inrunner may be preferable due to the restricted space available. Unlike brushed motors brushless do not like being overloaded and work best when they can achieve their max efficiency at near max revs. They have a max watt rating which should not be exceeded (Watts = Amps x Volts). The casing may be marked with numbers 42-56 which is the diameter 42mm and length 56mm. In my 48" Sea Queen I use a 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. To measure your wattage you need to acquire a Wattmeter to measure the actual current draw with the model in the water. This will give an indication of the max current at max load as you hold the model stationery. If the watts are greater than the motor's rating you need to reduce the prop size/pitch. I like scale props so use 3 bladed brass and avoid using racing plastic/nylon props as they can overload the motor. The ESC should also be of a sufficient rating to handle the running current, I usually try for at least a 50% margin ie 75amps for a 50amp max current. Finally your setup must be really secure (I know from personal experience) and free running. The revs produced are possibly higher than what you may have experience before and any fault can and will escalate very quickly. At high currents the motor coils will fry in about 2 seconds should anything stall the motor and you can expect to see smoke and a ruined motor. If you post some pics we can give you more detailed help on your particular setup. Dave