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Hi I have 3 working, 2 building, 2 restoration projects,1 maybe(I cutout the frames and keel) and plans of the Sea Queen, Sea Rover and would like to rebuild the Sea Hornet, but, 25% larger!! How many will never get built in the 64 dollar question!!!!!
Hi Colin There should be a ali plate with each motor and screws (countersunk). Attach the plate to the motor then fashion an angled metal plate with a hole to fit the ali plate, drill holes to attach with bolts (threadlocked) and mount to the hull. I have attached some pics of my crash tender and the sea queen. The latter uses a water cooled ali plate supported by two side brackets. Dave
Keith I have just seen your post re the Phoenix. If this is the model then I suspect the prop is perhaps too large for the brushless motor which will be struggling to reach max revs. Net result will be high current and short run times. If you can get or borrow a watt meter this will tell you the current draw and watts whilst holding and running the boat in water. Trying different size props will identify the best match. Personally I dont use s type 2 blade racing props on my models with brushless as they tend to be too coarse pitch. A good 3 blade brass prop will give realistic speed and long running times. My Sea Queen has a similar motor to yours and gives me about 45 mins if I run at full throttle. Pic attached of the model and setup. I also have a 34" Crash tender with a similar setup so some pics attached Dave
Hi Grandpa I agree with the advice Mark has already given, but would add that the large keel you seem to be adding will make the model difficult to turn. A simple infill from the keel to the shaft will give you all the strength you need without altering the handling characteristics. I usually use a piece of hard balsa to make a fillet. Gouge a slot where it sits on the shaft and epoxy in place. Cover with tissue or cloth coated with sanding sealer or resin. I am attaching a pic of my Sea Queen which shows the skeg. There is a small flared keel forrard of the skeg but this is part of the original design of this fast planing hull. You could add a short flared keel forrard of your shaft for say an inch or two but not to the full depth. Good luck and please share the end result Dave
There are acetate sheets available for modellers. Many of my earlier Aerokit models used this but over the years the UV light causes the acetate to turn yellow. I have some more recent supplies that could be acrylic. I have never seen any with tinting. From my own experience some plastic takes to spilt ink etc very well so you may be able to tint your own with a very weak Dylon type tint. Commercially photographic studios use acrylic plastic sheets which are UV safe. If you can source a supply that is thin enough for the scale of the model you are building this works well. I have used on my Sea Queen to good effect as it is the same thickness as the plywood frame.
Hi Simon We use the Hobbyking 35mm brushless 3639-1100kv motor(no water cooling), 60 Amp car ESC (HK-60A SL) with the program card ,Zippy Compact 3300.3S.25C and prop 2 blade 40mm. I am using this setup in my Sea Commander, but, I use a 5800mah battery as it is a little bit bigger boat. I also have the little Sea Hornet with a 28mm brushless motor. I have the Sea Rover, Sea Hornet, Swordsman and Sea Queen plans on PDF. Canabus
[Score: 8/10] 46"/3600g Boaty Mcboaty Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a Jp EnerGpro (2 Blade S Type) Controlled Through Jp EnerGpro (100Amps) ESC - Comments: I am building a Aerokits Sea Queen, I intend initially using a 12v lead acid and maybe going to 24v when sorted ,I am about half way at the moment and looking forcan Easter launch date , I like working with wood rather than plastic and much prefer the older more traditional style boats If anyone is interested I am having a clear out of all my other boats to raise funds for new projects and space Please feel free to contact me if your interested , Iam getting flak from the sub - Lieutenant
Thats a very nice boat, enjoyed the video, thank you for posting it,Im just getting started with boats and enjoy seeing vids of them in action. Would like to have a go at building one when I have more time, thanks again 😀 😀
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: In have just started construction and found bulkhead 2/3 missing , but have found bulkhead 3/4 x 2 !!!! I am going to uild slowly because of time pressures and thought I might startvwith th e standard set up and get the boat sorted Maybe go to brushless and gradually increase speed . Good or bad idead ? Terry
Hi Brian I am not sure which model you are referring to but your description of period photos suggests it is from the late 1930's and yes they were not a planing hull. Does your model have one or two props? A few pics of the model would help, you can upload by clicking the yellow box to the left of this input panel. Brushless can be a bit daunting at first experience but they are not difficult to use once you are familiar. You will already have seen they have three input wires and these need to be connected to an individual Brushless ESC for each motor. Doesn't matter which wired connect to which socket on the ESC but if your prop spins the wrong way you can swop any two connections to change the directiopn. The kv rating refers to the unloaded speed of the motor for every volt you apply so for say a 1000kv motor supplied with 11.1volts the motor would spin at 11100 revs. There are two types of brushless motor "in-runners" and "out-runners". This refers to the construction used with in-runners generally being less bulky. The outrunners will produce more tork and can be more suited to slower speeds. If you need to water cool the in-runners have a jacket fitted around the motor body whilst the out-runners use a water cooled mounting attached to the bearing. Both are suitable but I personally prefer Out-runners. For your model I suspect an inrunner may be preferable due to the restricted space available. Unlike brushed motors brushless do not like being overloaded and work best when they can achieve their max efficiency at near max revs. They have a max watt rating which should not be exceeded (Watts = Amps x Volts). The casing may be marked with numbers 42-56 which is the diameter 42mm and length 56mm. In my 48" Sea Queen I use a 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. To measure your wattage you need to acquire a Wattmeter to measure the actual current draw with the model in the water. This will give an indication of the max current at max load as you hold the model stationery. If the watts are greater than the motor's rating you need to reduce the prop size/pitch. I like scale props so use 3 bladed brass and avoid using racing plastic/nylon props as they can overload the motor. The ESC should also be of a sufficient rating to handle the running current, I usually try for at least a 50% margin ie 75amps for a 50amp max current. Finally your setup must be really secure (I know from personal experience) and free running. The revs produced are possibly higher than what you may have experience before and any fault can and will escalate very quickly. At high currents the motor coils will fry in about 2 seconds should anything stall the motor and you can expect to see smoke and a ruined motor. If you post some pics we can give you more detailed help on your particular setup. Dave
This is Maxine, a 1960' aerokit Sea Queen 😊 She has been stripped down, hull repaired along with top sides. New brushless motor/lipos etc. Goes quite well and pretty stable as you can see.She is sailed on Wibsey Park lake in Sunny Bradford.
Bought as a wreck off ebay . stripped down,repaired hull and top sides. re positioned the propshaft. Re painted. New Brushless motor/ Lipos etc. Goes quite well for an old girl, Believed originally built in the 60's. Ill try to upload a video of her strutting her stuff on Wibsey Park lake in Bradford. Edit: I've managed to upload a video of her in action on u tube ,see link below https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=Fn7LxmND-8g