I sailed on Lindow Common from 1963 until about 1967/8. Most Saturdays there was a guy there with a Gannet powered boat that was similar to a Sea Queen, the radio was huge, about a 12inch cube on the floor with what seemed about an 8foot aerial. I had a sea scout with a super fury, but no radio, just a touch of rudder and let it go,and go it did!! I think the whole lake was lined with timber and it seemed huge but when I called in there a couple of years ago it seemed much smaller than I remember. I to progressed to single channel bang bang steering with a number of boats that were really a bit too quick for this type of basic radio, the first had the transmitter housed in an OXO box and the receiver in a soap box. Happy days
We have just moved house so I (and my wife) are now fully aware of the true situation. I (that is we ) have :- 3-46" fireboats 4-34" fireboats 1-Sea Queen 1-Sea Scout 1-Sea Hornet ,which is unbuilt 1-RM2, which I have owned since about 1964 1-Snoopy hydroplane 1-OS Max 40 powered multi racer from the 1980s 1-54" offshore racer which needs building ...and I just bought a 46" fibre glass crash tender hull A couple are electric but mostly diesel, petrol or glow powered ,including, Super Fury, Racers, Hunters, Frog, McCoy, Merco, a Force 10 and a Gannet. The "problem" would appear to be growing, I recently built a Peacemaker control liner and bought a Pinto 1/2A team racer on Ebay....I can sense the rocket approaching !!
This is one that i,ve yearned after for some considerable years. Had the plans in the 1960's, I think, but it was always put on the back burner. But needs must, we have a big sailing lake now and a Sea Queen looks ideal on this water. Speranza, built from Plans, first thing source the timber, 5mm ply for keel and bulkheads,and Obechie 6mm X 3mm laminated for stringers and chine lines. Transferring bulkheads/frames to the timber can be daunting, but several methods can be applied. Personally i prefer to Trace the outline and detail then pin prick the outlines onto the timber, you can do this direct from the plan, but using tracing paper or drafting film saves the drawing from disintegrating. Have used carbon paper in the past, but I did find this a bit messy, a personal choice.
It has been 6 months since I was last active, but after the stroke it took me until now with the help of doctors, nurses, physio and of course my family. I now have the all clear from the hospital, so can't wait to get back to my models. My boy cleared my garage and built me a new bench and store cupboards so now no excuse for not repairing and restoring my fleet. First up will be my dads old Sea Queen from the late 50s. Then I'll have to see which of the other's (about 6) will be easiest. But plenty to be going on with. Well I'll stop waffling on now and say its good to be back.
Boatshed Use whatever you want as a coupling with the Taycol. Its so inefficient it will make little difference. They are major sources of interference but capacitors and careful screening will allow them to work with modern RC and ESC's. If you use metal to metal couplings they can cause interference. Your brushless will require a good well engineered modern type coupling with the motor and shaft in alignment and solidly mounted. I use a 42xx brushless in my Sea Queen and it is fast. Has your Crash Tender two props? If not the Super Marine should be OK. I would use a nice 3 cell LiPo to make up for the lump of lead that is the Taycol. A brushed 800 would be suitable for either model. If you want reverse you need to modify and add a bridge rectifier. Doug (RNin Munich) is converting his Taycol so perhaps he will post a blog. Good luck with the build Dave
Boatshed, I would say the Taycol would suit the Sea Queen better as it's more of a cruiser. The Fire Boat needs some ooomph to get it on the step, as they say. If you have a brushless, use it in the big Crash Tender. The beauty of the Taycol coupling is that it simply works. It cannot NOT work. Been in my Crash Tender for 53 years, doesn't look even slightly worn! As to electronics, I just don't trust ESCs, whoever makes 'em and with Taycols you need somebody who understands lecktrickery, which ain't me, but Doug's an electrical man. You can see him trailing wires when he goes for a stroll. I have bought some supression condensors, but no idea where to put 'em! Cheers, Martin
I have that funny square stick coupling with my Taycol Super Marine. But was going to use a rubber coupling, Which is best. I plan to put this motor in either my Sea Queen or possibly my 46" Crash Tender. Not sure which though. As I have purchased a nice brushless motor and speed controller to go with it. I am unsure though if it will push the boat fast enough. I have tried the Taycol with a electronic speed controller on the bench and it seem's to work's OK but I have seen some say that they interfere with the speed electronic controllers. Any advice on this please.
Yep. see your problem. You don't want to sand it through 😡 With paint strippers, and I've used some pretty aggressive ones - like when I stripped about 20 coats of ancient oil paints off the beautiful pine doors in my old cottage in Sandhurst many moons ago, I'm always a bit concerned with what remains in the wood. Therefore I would favour careful sanding with as fine a grit that will do the job before Christmas! Then apply a quality wood sealer, Ronseal was good in those days! Damp the wood to bring up fibres and hand sand 'em flat with 'flour paper', if that is still known!? It's so fine your fingers barely notice it, but the fibres do 👍 NOT Wet&Dry, it will discolour the wood. After that apply a UV resistant yacht grade varnish of your choice. I'm sure Martin can recommend something and correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I learned from my Granddad, who was a master carpenter. Amongst many other wonderful things he made church furniture. Wow! now Queen on the radio - 'The Show Must Go On'. 😊
Hi Allan The motor and ESC seem well matched which points to the prop being too coarse a pitch. You have a large scale boat not a fast racing boat and I suggest you replace the prop with a brass three blade of 35-40mm. As we have suggested a wattmeter will help you determine which is the most suitable for your set up. My Sea Queen with a similar set up (40mm brass prop) draws 30 amp at full speed so well within your ESC and motor spec. I see you have water cooling and am wondering if this is working correctly. You should see a good flow of water from the exit port at all but the lowest speeds. The inlet scoop should be immediately behind and facing the prop with a good straight pipe run to the ESC and motor cooling points. Dave
Hi Chris Sounds like it was an IC model. That black stuff is ply impregnated with nitro fuel. I have a copy of the original plan but it was intended more as a building guide for the pre-cut parts. All Aerokits followed the same basic design and had a ply keel running the entire length of the keel. Vertical formers attached to the keel were skinned with thin plysheets. The oil usually seeps down along the keel from the inside and causes the ply to delaminate. You can usually get away with removing just the damaged parts and replacing with new ply wood. If you can do that and fill any dents etc with plastic padding followed by a covering and Eze-Kote it should be solid and watertight. I am attaching some pics of a hull I acquired for the 48" Crash Tender in a part (badly) built state. The last pic is of my Sea Queen hull after stripping for comparison. You can clearly see how the gunge can get into the wood grain especially if it was not treated with Eze-Cote inside. I have many more pics of various Aerokits restorations so if you would like copies I will share via Dropbox. Just send me a pm with your email and I will send you the link (it's all free) Dave
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave
Hi I have 3 working, 2 building, 2 restoration projects,1 maybe(I cutout the frames and keel) and plans of the Sea Queen, Sea Rover and would like to rebuild the Sea Hornet, but, 25% larger!! How many will never get built in the 64 dollar question!!!!!