Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍 On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there! My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲 Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: The second Skandia(red); the first one(blue) I 'did' wasn't mine. I was asked to overhaul it for a friend. I was happy to do that for him and did it for free if I was allowed to sail it for one season... Which got me into this radiosailing... Meanwhile his boat is back in for a second overhaul because it was damaged during his moves. This red Skandia was mine. But sold not long ago because I came across another unstarted NOS kit of this yacht. Haven't started building yet, so pics of the last Skandia will have to wait.
Hi Mactin, there was also a 'Seahawk' in the Star Trek / Wars saga! Shame about USS Penguin, would have been a tasty boat 😉 BTW: penguins are my favourite animal. so funny, or imperious like the Emperor penguins. 👍 Didn't know about the film either, when I think about sub films Operation Petticoat comes to mind! How about doing a pink one!!!?😲 Keep up the great work, Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave
Hi Mick and Mark, (Sorry but that sounds like a comedy duo😉) Apparently before the intervention of Scott-Paine (of Supermarine / Schneider Trophy fame and founder of British Power Boat company), and T.E. Lawrence (of Lawrence of Arabia fame!) who designed and developed the first HSLs, these little 40 foot STs had a secondary role as emergency boats. Even though they were not very fast, ca 20 knots max. Lawrence witnessed a seaplane crash in the Solent while serving as an Aircraftman at the RAF Seaplane base. He saw how the ST took so long to reach the plane that it sank before they got there and several crew members drowned. He started lobbying his RAF Commanders to obtain faster launches as dedicated rescue boats. When Scott-Paine also proposed fast rescue launches the RAF suggested Lawrence as co developer and tester. Sadly Lawrence did not live to see the final version, having died in a motorbike crash in 1936. You live and learn! Cheers Doug 😎
Doug no nut and bolt honest 😜😜 What is this fillet you and Dave talk about and how is it achieved as I presume its easier than fitting the support and drilling more holes in the keel? Also now I've extended the hole I obviously exposed new wood do I need to apply sanding sealer before applying glue or just slap it one. Do the photos look OK to start gluing??
Hi Norm, she had all sorts of planes at one time or another, including Swordfish, Fulmar, Barracuda, Seafire and Grumman Avengers. So whatever you give her it's right 👍 Attached some more pics, with detail of the foredeck, starboard quarter (stern), starboard midships and bow and aft deck starboard showing antenna mast, arrester cable pulley and much more. 😉 Happy building Doug 😎 PS The big 'bean can' forward of the antenna mast looks to me like your searchlight 😉
Hi Norm, would be very surprised if there was only one searchlight! Would expect some higher up on the island as well. At one stage the gun on the starboard bow was also replaced with one. Aircraft cranes? They would only be needed to fish ditched planes out of the drink🤔 The boat cranes would need to be bigger and robuster to handle the greater weight. When not in use they would be swung alongside and secured. As I said before; she was modded so often, even during the build i.e. second mast for a radar, that whatever we do we end up with a hybrid! Have another look at the photos in my last batch, download them and expand in a decent photo viewer, such as Irfan View, and you should see the masts and rigging before the Pacific era. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, Yep, agree, to a certain extent. I have also had surprising results with 385 / 400 sizes; for instance with my 110cm heavy and cramped submarine. On the surface it outruns most boy racers 😁 Not exactly scale but all good fun. A little down angle on the forward planes and it throws up a beautiful handlebar moustache of water 😊 Not too much angle at speed or it sticks it's tail in the air 😲 No, the main question was that Fred already has the 700s so I simply suggested a decent match, 5mm shaft and so on. If he wants to spend on more motors fine. the the 3mm shaft would surely save weight, mostly through the smaller tube. Don't know the rest of the detail of the boat; beam, draft, safe waterline etc, but I would have thought a 3 footer would have a reasonable carrying capacity, like my 3 and 4 foot warships. Most of those run on multiple Speed 600s. And there I have the usual warship high length to beam ratio and associated stability problems! Like I said; he pays his money and takes his choice. Personally I would give it a whirl with the 700s since they are in the box! Maybe though with a 3 or 4mm shaft and appropriate coupling so he can adapt later if he wants to. Would still think a pair of 35 props would do the trick. Whatever, have fun Fred. Look forward to the Sea trials Report! (Wrote, read and commented enough of 'em in my old job!) Cheers Doug 😎 Oh no! Yet another thunderstorm just started, my terrace is already swamped 🤔
We need some pictures ?? Where did you get The Queen Dipped. I take it that's what you have had done. I have a Sea Queen and got her from a boot sale about 6 years ago.Still haven't started work on her. I have a few Aerokits, Sea Hornet, I made back in the 70's. Crash Tender, 48" Sea Commander, also from a boot fair Crash Tender 34" still in box unmade, 1994 when 50 were made on the 50th anniversary of the Aerokit model. When I saw it advertised in Model Boats grabbed one very quickly. Also have a Precedent Huntsman 31. Purchased that about 25 years ago. Had a 850 electric motor in her. Got a bit of a leak in the hull that's now sorted but she also needs a refurb now. As well as a Precedent Huntsman hull with no cabin top, going to make a top of some kind but different to the original. Hopefully will get round to them all one day. Plus quite a few other model boats.
Found this on the internet, hope this will help you . From early times, to avoid collisions, ships underway or at anchor by night carried at least a single lantern showing a white light. There seems to have been no fixed rule about the use of lights until 1824 when two white lights were required to be shown in ships navigating the canals of the Netherlands and Belgium. In 1845 coloured lights were authorized for this purpose. In that same year HMS COMET carried out experiments at Pithead with red, green and white lights, and 1847 Admiralty regulations called for all British steamships to be fitted in the approved manner. No such requirement existed for sailing vessels. After 1850 all steamships in the busy fairways of the open seas were required to show coloured lights by night. The colours red and green had been selected as the least likely to be confused. The French in 1863 instituted a practice of making the lights visible on the beam as well as ahead. This led to international agreement on the use of sidelights, visible through definite arcs. About the same time sailing vessels were first required to show red and green sidelights. Trinity House, the British pilotage authority, had ruled in 1840 that two steamships steaming toward each other by night, to avoid collision were each to alter course to starboard, thereby keeping the other ship on the port hand. The red light, indicating danger, was assigned to the side to be steered away from. A series of conference of the principal maritime nations has produced the International Regulations for Preventing collision at Sea, in which are embodied directions regarding lights, steering and sailing rules. In the most recent revision (1953) these are greatly clarified, and are made applicable to aircraft taxi-ing or alighting on water in ocean areas. Further revisions, drafted at the 1960 Safety of Life at Sea conference, will soon be brought into effect
Yes,I remember a gannet powered boat,used to gather quite a crowd.I left the area in 69 but sailed at lindow on visits back on the early 70s,by then I was on RCS reeds in an O and R powered sea queen and remember a chap sailing a large "flattie" powered by a honda motorcycle starter motor,it was amazing to see it floating "dead" in the water and then getting on "the plane" in less than a second!.
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.
hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔