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>> Home > Tags > sea star

sea star
aquastar
billings sea star
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starlet
wandering star
coastal barge
seasons trophy
sea star
How many is to Many by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎

stripping hull for repair and repaint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave

Wheelhouse roof detail....and a paint problem ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Because of the curvature of the wheelhouse roof the searchlight, mast, aerial and other fittings need some shaped wedges to sit on so that they sit vertically, this is particularly important for the searchlight as it is designed to rotate. I cut and shaped some plasticard for these and when I was happy with the angles I superglued them in place on the roof and used a small amount of filler to blend them into the roof profile. Similar spacers were made for the anchor where it sits on the forward cabin roof as well. After masking off the surrounding areas I sprayed a coat of Halfords white primer on the roofs and immediately noticed that the paint ‘crazed’ very badly for some unknown reason. I had used panel wipe to clean the roof before painting and was spraying over previous coats of the same primer so this was really disappointing to see 😭 I had to leave the paint to harden for a couple of days and set about stripping it back to the base coats as much as possible and then re-masked and sprayed again….only for the same thing to happen again 😡 This was despite pre-warming the can and shaking it thoroughly for the prescribed two minutes. To cut a long story short I discovered that the new can of white primer that I had recently purchased was faulty and it was spraying considerably more solvent/carrier than pigment and this heavy overload of solvent was the cause of the problem. Halfords replaced the paint without argument but I had to wait another couple of days before I could remove the paint and start over again for the third time. Happily the replacement paint was OK, the re-spray was successful and the final gloss coat is to a reasonable finish but the whole process set me back a couple of weekends and was a very frustrating experience 😞 An isolated case I’m sure but after previously stating that Halfords paint was OK, I now reserve my judgement and remain cautious with their paint, and I now do more test sprays just in case…..

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark

Unknown original paintwork by chumbucket Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
You can paint laquer over enamel ,but I would suggest going back to the base wood.Use a primer sealer to seal all the other paints out then go from there.I know what your talking about,happened to me till I figured out how to deal with it.Ive even gone as far as to brush on a couple layers of 30min epoxy deluted 50% with denatured alcohol to use as a sealer then start my primers to get smooth.Do Not Paint Enamel over Laquer,the enamel takes a long time to dry which attacks the under layment of any paint/primer.This is why the bubbles form under the paint you just put on

Hello and some initial questions by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Rob Nice to see you into Aerokits boats. I have built a Sea Hornet on the original plans. Runs a brushless motor on 11.1 volt Lipo battery. Very fast little beast. I have a Sea Commander with a 3648/4 1100kv brushless motor on a 11.1volt Lipo battery. The old girl is faster on this setup than an IC motor with reverse and no starting problems.

Fibreglassing the hull bottom skins. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
The hull was prepared for fibreglassing, any pins are punched below the surface, filled and rubbed down with a fine grit paper. The wood does not need any sanding sealer applied as this will react with the epoxy resin. I cut the cloth roughly to size and shape and laid onto the bottom skin, the upper edge was lightly taped with masking tape to hold it in place. The resin is mixed to the correct 100:30 ratio and stirred well, the pot life is 95 minutes and will allow me to take my time to get this right. My previous test was very helpful in establishing a working sequence and I know how the materials will react when I start working them and how much time I have before the brush stops brushing and starts dragging the resin. The cloth is folded over to the other side of the keel and a thin coat of resin applied over the skin and the side of the keel and then the fabric is carefully folded back onto the wet resin. The resin immediately starts to draw the cloth to the surface and a very light brushing from the centre outwards helps to make it smooth and flat, the remaining resin can then be gently brushed onto the cloth so that there is an even coating. The cloth needed to be pushed up against the keel sides and I used a steel rule edge to get it into the junction of hull and keel. I decided to trim the cloth just at the bow along the line of the join in the skins whilst the rein was still wet so that I would have a clean butt join in the cloth in this region instead of an overlap, probably not really necessary as an overlap should sand down ok and that join will be covered by the chine stringer, but it seemed like a good idea anyway. I did a similar thing on the keel below the propshaft and around the skeg. This was done with a sharp new Stanley knife blade without disturbing the cloth and the excess cloth removed. Once the cloth is on you must resist the urge to brush on any more resin or smooth it out any more, this first resin coating only needs to be light as subsequent coats will build up and fill the cloth weave. I let it to cure overnight and the following day is still felt tacky so I erred on the side of caution and left it for a further day until it was entirely dry to the touch. The excess cloth was then trimmed back with a sharp blade. Caution, be careful because the cut edge of the cloth is itself very sharp, as I found out the hard way! Feeling quite satisfied with these initial results and a great deal more confident I repeated the process for the other bottom skin. At this rate of progress, allowing for proper curing of the resin, it will take 8 days just to cover all five faces of the hull with cloth alone, but a wise man said 'a job worth doing is a job worth doing well' 😄

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by namron Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi everyone, this is my first venture into the realms of writing an article so please be patient. I have swapped from gas boats to scale boats about 3 years ago and am enjoying the new challenge. I joined a club and there is a wealth of knowledge to be had and gracefully shared by my new friends, however one of my biggest problems is I like big boats! I have just finished a 1.12 scale Waveney and have already purchased a 1.12 scale Arun to build over the next year or so. I have searched the Internet and all model outlets known to man to find good quality hand rail stations at 1:12 scale (not white metal!!) and can't find any! SO.....I decided to make my own and this is how I've made them! Using a white metal 1:12 stanchion as a guide for spacing etc; I purchased a couple of metres of 3mm brass tube, and 100 brass beads 5mm dia (from a great shop called tackle bits 2010 on ebay) I made a jig to cut the tube to size (pic 1) and then made several assembly jigs until I settled on this one (pic 2) It's simple to make using 1mm rod and a block of aluminium. Start by putting a bead on each rod and then putting the cut length of tube in between (pic 3) you can slide all the pieces to make sure they are in line, then apply flux to the joints that are to be soldered and heat with a flame and solder, that's it! As simple as that. Allow to cool and slide off the jig , Polish with wire wool and you're done (pic4) The principle can obviously be applied to different scales making life easier for those of you wanting something better than is available through the shops. Will hopefully post more as the project progresses. Thanks .

Precedent Perkasa by cormorant Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Dave Both motors in and running smoothly. Once the rudders and servo installed she will be ready for hull only sea trials. Any thoughts on what props to start with? Steve

Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so In Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.

San Pedro Push Boat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi Haverlock Thanks, I've been trying to track it down it's some where midships, I will do how you said and put Epoxy in the seam. in the mean time I've had to glue a strip port to starboard midships and another far and aft along the seams that are exposed! looks ugly but if it helps my boat float i don't care what it looks like! its all under water. I'm trying to help it float because it's a $500.00 boat, and that's the cost without running hardware!

new steamer by shavings Commander   Posted: 11 months ago
Cenbeth, must be the air in Wales makes time pass slowly! So she went into the tank today and wanted to roll over! All my fears about too heavy and she sat high in the water and is going to need quite a bit of lead to settle down. Gas burner worked well but only took it to 20 psi as there were leaks at the gauge and the main steam valve was not seating properly. oh well back to the shed ....it is quite dark out there Jarvo! Figtree cant take breaks, if I stop her indoors always has a list starting with clear your junk fron the kitchen table Roger

Help onsea hornet by Peter501 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 year ago
Sea hornet build started

Which Motor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
HI randhbarker I obtained a Talacre part built and its now complete. The plans show the top bridge reversed as the original had the steps facing aft but I only found this out after I had built. ?You can find details if you Google search. The model is not that big and I used a direct drive 555 motor with a 7.2v NiMh and Mtronik ESC driving a three blade brass 35mm (I think) prop. I get hours of run time so I don't believe you will need a geared motor, just a low current drain high tork motor for 6v use. The hull is quite flexible and will need internal bracing to bring to the correct lines. Mine had not been built this way and I had to rebuild one side to correct the lines. The instructions are good but there are lots of parts and I suggest you identify everything before you start. It is a real builders kit and the parts need careful "fetteling" to produced a good finish and fit. Hope this helps Enjoy your building Dave

PT109 by Lauriem Lieutenant   Posted: 1 year ago
HI Seaman Blucher - shouldn't that be Admiral? Are you named after Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher of WW1 warship fame? Anyway, thanks for your comments, although my intention was never to put anyone off building these boats. I have looked at other peoples PT109s and seem to recognised the same stability problems that mine exhibits. Mine can look quite alarming when turning to starboard - I can't help thinking it's going to 'dig in' and submarine, even after the turn signal is cancelled. I have to admit that I probably installed the rudder a few degees off vertical - not much really, about 3-4 degrees - and wondered if it was that. I should get around to straightening it up one day. I have tried multiples of lower batteries and more ballast up front or at the stern but nothing has improved it. The boat isn't plastic, it's plywood and you can see its very robust construction on the build blog I did for it on this site. Your idea of a false keel or keels might work but seems very drastic when you think how many of these kits have been made, and presumably they don't suffer from the same stability problems that mine does. At least I haven't heard of it if they do. I have also thought about fitting trim tabs which I expect will fight any tendency to roll the boat at speed. Obviously more work is needed but my Perkasa works so well the PT109 is on the shelf for the moment!