I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.
hi I have been off the air for a while so time for an update. i have sealed and strengthend the hull by using very light glass cloth and Ezy-cote resin. this was very easy to use and i think gave very good results praticularly as i have not done glassing before. the the boat has been painted now and i am just starting to plank the deck. to plank the deck i am using the permenant marker on the edge to give the impresstion of caulking. i am verying the time the marker is in contact with the wood so the mark very's a little on thickness i think this looks more realistic than an even line, on a test piece it looked good. i will add some photo's soon, i keep forgetting to take them🤔
Hi WW! There's a lot of fascinating stuff on that site, 👍 Search 'models' and you get a lot of interesting mini aircraft, cars, tanks, complete towns (e.g. Bristol!), ships, and some pretty ladies modelling this and that! 😉 Could get addictive! I'd very much like to know what they used for for the 'bangs'!? I recently bought some magicians Flash Paper for the guns on my 1:72 destroyer, and 1:128 Graf Spee and HMS Belfast, which I intend to fire using redundant glow-plugs from my helicopter days in the distant past. Wish me luck! Cheers Doug 😎 BTW I managed to download the Renown clip and the Liner, but the Liner clip jumps and staggers with lots of artefacts so couldn't see enough detail to start identifying 🤔 The Renown clip works OK 😉
A brief history After the second world war and as part of the occupational forces the Second tactical air force the RAF took over Sylt airport in 1945 and later in 1946 the RAF decided to use the airport and the airspace west of Sylt and Amrum as a firing range, and was known as RAF Sylt Armament Practice Station. From February 1948 to February 1949 the airfield was closed and prepared for the operation of jet aircraft. For target practice a target towing Squadron was stationed continuously on the station. The aircraft used were Miles M. 25 Martinet, hawker Tempest TT, DE Havilland mosquito TT. 35, Gloster Meteor F. 8, Meteor T 7. For instruction and training flights the flight also had some DE Havilland vampire T. 9s, hawker Hunter F. 4s, Hunter T. 7s. The aircraft of the target towing squadron were housed in the hangar of 402 near the South West of the Station. Therefore, the unofficial designation of weapon training squadron 402 was used at the time. For patrolling and securing the range area, as well as for rescue and training operations Marine Craft Section boats were stationed at List and Hörnum, Bristol Sycamore HR 14 rescue helicopters were Also station at RAF Sylt. Air traffic control boats and HSLs were stationed in the port of List at the beginning of the fifties (see pictures) D Boats In 1954, the decision was taken to replace the air traffic control boats and the HSLs with RttLs mk2s Rescue Target Towing Launch. As part of the rebuilding program to help the German economy the boats were designed and built by Krogerwerft Yard at Rendsburg. (Later taken over by Lursson ship builders) and were numbered D2762- D2766 these boats came in service mid 1955 which explains why my Father severed on both HSL and D-boats (preferring the D-boat) D2762 and D2765 Based Hörnum, D2763 and D2764 from List, with D2766 as a reserve boat in the event of maintenance or breakdown, Their design was very different to any other boats in the Marine Craft Section/unit more like the German Schenllboot or S Boot (allied code name 'E' Boat which my father always used), with flared bows and rounded bilges and powered by high speed diesels. The D boats were fitted with winches for Target Towing, these were removed as the boats duties were change to Range Safety and ASR These boats only served with the RAF, until 1961. Two were sold to the south African Air force D2762 and D2764 in1961, and the other three handed over to the Federal German Navy in 1961. All were subsequently used as ASR craft. D- Boats in German service The German Navy, the “Bundesmarine commissioned them on 1.9.1961 as FL 9 to FL11 and were used by Marinefliegergeschwader 5"naval aviation Squadron 5” Until end of September 1975. the three were termed as air traffic control The fate of these three boats is a bit uncertain, one of these boats was in the process of being sold as NVG S1 as a North Sea supply boat, this deal fell through and the boat was sold to private owner in Italy (no further record for this boat found) the other two boats are said to been scraped or de-commissioned , however these boats are quit properly the two that ended up in the service of the Spanish customs service as cutters, after they were confiscated when smuggling, I have tried to contact the Spanish about these boats but have not heard from them and presume they were scraped or sold in to private hands ( there is the suggestion that they were driven on rocks and sunk, no evidence found) D-boats of the South African air force/navy The two boats that were obtained by the south African air force in 1961 were originally known as R30 and R31 and they served under SAAF until 1969 when the unit was taken over by the south African navy and R30 became P1552 and R31 became P1551 these were changed again when holiday makers referred to the boats as PISS1 and PISS1 too R30 to P30 and R31 to P31. Both these boats were diffidently sunk R30 Lost off Saldanah Bay on 7 October 1988 after striking a reef off Danger Point. R31, near Cape Point, after she grounded through contaminated fuel issues There are somethings about these boats that strike me as odd, The originations that took over these boats, they don’t like to mention the fact that these were ex-RAF or British boats, There is no record of the Spanish boats, it is said that they were sunk but no details are available except what is said on one form. I think I have done as much looking for information as I can, most of the bare facts are stated so thanks to all those web sites and forms that I have used and the pictures I have used I would like to thank to Dave M for the drawing And thanks to the marine craft branch museum for their help and for putting me in touch with Mr Rick Mortby who built the museums model of the D boat And a big thank you to Rick Mortby for the scale drawing and for his trust. And to Dr Christian Ostersehlte historian for Lurssen shipbuilders for the pictures of my Fathers boat D2763 and now I can start the building of the model D boat
Thanks Dave, Shucks SOLD! Not to worry, having found the kit description, with pics of full fittings I'm surprised to see that not much is missing 😊 Some loose and some fixed in the wrong place 🤔 but mostly present. Since Krick now market this, and other Billings kits, here if I get stuck for something I can't make, which ain't much 😉 I'll ask them. Meantime on with Sea Scout Jessica. Started sanding off the dodgy bits today. Fine work starts tomorrow. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Figtree, neither can I, but is still down the line, first comes Sea Scout then maybe HMS Hotspur refit. We'll see 😉 From the state of her Gina 2 will need a lot more work. I'll post a blog when I start. BTW Your user name always reminds me of sunny afternoons plundering the fig trees on the coast of Tuscany. Very pleasant memories 😊 Cheers Doug 😎 PS I think Martin has vamoosed!
Hi Ed, funny! When I Googled it here (Germany!?) it found nothing, except of course E-Bay and Amazon claiming to have lots of them at cheapest prices 🤔 Yes, I do intend to convert it. and put the converted Taycol Target in it. But after Sea Scout, started cleaning up her hull today. Sunny and warm so could work outside 😊 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Keith, On all my boat building I use a thick superglue, CA1500 thick grade Super Glue 1 x 500gm, supplied by a company in Hull Lincolnshire contact details ' www.sureloc-direct.co.uk. It is industrial strength and can be bought in small quantities but cheaper bought in the large 500gm size, if you ask they will supply small bottles to decant it into, if you don't ask you will not get them. I use it for plank on hull construction, deck planking, general construction etc. The only other glue I use is 2 part epoxy for sealing in prop tubes to the hull. If you want an immediate contact use an accelerator that is supplied in a spray can you only need a minute amount of spray on one or both surfaces. I have used this glue to fix the rubber around club 500s, speed boats and cruisers. I normally start at the centre of the aft, if you want the rubber to be level with the deck use a short flat piece of plastic or wood laid (guide) on the deck holding it so it just sticks out from the hull and butt the rubber up to this as you stick it on to the hull. To start lay a thin layer of superglue in the centre of the rubber for about 2", lightly press it in position and remove immediatly, quickly lightly spray accelerator and immediatly reposition accuratly. Continue around the hull using your 'Guide' to accuratly position each section. As you familierize yourself with the proceedure you will probably find you can glue 6" or so at a time. Make sure that you do not stretch the rubber especially around the corners. Hope this helps. Vic
Hi Dave, absolutely clear! You and I seem to have the same Web Adviser 👍 With the sub that's just research at the moment! It needs renovating just to run as dynamic, not used for 10 years. Needs new accus and then re-trimming for the different weight! So, spurred on by Westquay👍; I have moved the renovation of Dad's old Sea Scout up the priority list. Took her down of the shelf day before yesterday after 25 years or so and removed all the junk. See attached photos. Junk was used for experiments with siren, water pump, lights etc. Photo 1 'Off the Shelf', photo 2 'Junk Removed', photo 3 'The Junk!', #4 Stern and cockpit 'Off the Shelf'. Old DIN audio socket is for charging the RX accu. The hole was for a screw in telescopic antenna, borrowed from an old TX! Not very aesthetic but Quick and Dirty for trying things out. The 'odd thing' sticking out the transom is just a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt I put in to fix the antenna bracket inside. Needs must .... I have also started cleaning up the old Taycol Target and will put that back in instead of the Decaperm. Taycol will be adapted to run on a modern ESC with reverse; using the bridge diode method. Have been thinking of a Blog for the renovation of the Old Lady (the boat not the other half!!!😉)! So U26 will have to wait for more than just an interim refit. The SLEP comes much later! Not much room for diving gear, hull was carved out of 4 thick planks glued together with a big slot in the middle for equipment! Will be a challenge!!!!!!!! Cheers 😎
Yes, I got that one short mention in "in the boat shed" on my search. I provided those pictures to him and most of the history, as I did to Alex Laird when he was trying to sell her through his boat brokerage in Classic Boat magazine in the 90s. She was towed by a fishing boat from Burnham round to Canvey where an ex Police mechanic and his girlfriend were living on her, then the next I know she's out at Dauntless's yard on Canvey, then gets transported by road to Bristol. By now she was in the ownership of a John Ord, an antique print and book seller. She has remained there ever since. I visited her when she was in a creek at Canvey and spookily, as I looked into the water, a piece of her interior floated past me! The Police mechanic guy said they'd stripped her interior for safe keeps and it was in his mother's garage in Leigh-on-Sea. Well this piece wasn't, was it? I tried to get it with a stick but couldn't. I'd have kept it if I could have got it! That was the last I saw of her. I imagine by now she'll have been destroyed. Mark Rolt, who was in charge of her where she lay in Bristol, is a nephew of the great Tom Rolt, who started the Inland Waterways Association, the Talyllyn Railway Preservation Society and the Vintage Sports Car Club. All major interests of mine over the years. He will be revolving in his grave like one of his beloved Alvis engines. Doug, she was one of a class called C-Class and fitted the then rules for only a few years. She was built in Dan Hatcher's yard in 1885/6. The chap I bought her from, Steve Bowen, gave me the picture of her afloat and rigged. I stayed friends with Steve for years. He then got picked up by a rich lady and went touring around the chateaux of Europe, most of which seemed to be owned by her friends. Nobody could have deserved such a fate more than Steve, one of nature's true gentlemen. It is thanks to raggy arsed enthusiasts like Steve and me that these old boats were preserved as long as they have been for rich gits to take advantage as they now do. Martin
Yep, it can generate a lot of heat if you overdo it ;-/ Copper foil below the waterline will look great 👍 Your boat had more luck than a GF mine-hunter I once worked on. That put a copper plate on the keel to act as a counter balance for the comms antennas, which we fitted. Before it came to sea trials we noticed the comms performance on the HF antennas had deteriorated. The yard sent divers down and found that the copper plate looked like Chantilly Lace after only a few months 🤔 Maybe I'll start a Blog about my destroyer - "HMS Hotspur - A Never Ending Story" - it started 50 years ago and the ship has undergone many Life Extension Programmes since. Here a couple of pics (Box Brownie 127!) of the maiden voyage , ca 1965-66, in Radnor Park, Folkestone, Kent. Free-running on 2 cheap Mabuchis and a 4.5V cycle lamp battery! Those were the days, oder vielleicht nicht 😉
Hi again! I used tissue on my destroyer (1.35m) with success, light and strong and minimal filling and sanding of lumps and bumps :-) Don't make the resin mix too thick and sticky or it won't soak in properly. Brush a thin mix into the wood to seal it first. Start at the keel and work up. Not too much hardener or it can go brittle, apart from going off too fast ;-( Shame to cover up all that lovely woodwork though 🤔 Can't you use a suitable coloured wood filler then varnish it? 'Wood' 😉 look wonderful. Cheer Doug 😎
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave
Because of the curvature of the wheelhouse roof the searchlight, mast, aerial and other fittings need some shaped wedges to sit on so that they sit vertically, this is particularly important for the searchlight as it is designed to rotate. I cut and shaped some plasticard for these and when I was happy with the angles I superglued them in place on the roof and used a small amount of filler to blend them into the roof profile. Similar spacers were made for the anchor where it sits on the forward cabin roof as well. After masking off the surrounding areas I sprayed a coat of Halfords white primer on the roofs and immediately noticed that the paint ‘crazed’ very badly for some unknown reason. I had used panel wipe to clean the roof before painting and was spraying over previous coats of the same primer so this was really disappointing to see 😭 I had to leave the paint to harden for a couple of days and set about stripping it back to the base coats as much as possible and then re-masked and sprayed again….only for the same thing to happen again 😡 This was despite pre-warming the can and shaking it thoroughly for the prescribed two minutes. To cut a long story short I discovered that the new can of white primer that I had recently purchased was faulty and it was spraying considerably more solvent/carrier than pigment and this heavy overload of solvent was the cause of the problem. Halfords replaced the paint without argument but I had to wait another couple of days before I could remove the paint and start over again for the third time. Happily the replacement paint was OK, the re-spray was successful and the final gloss coat is to a reasonable finish but the whole process set me back a couple of weekends and was a very frustrating experience 😞 An isolated case I’m sure but after previously stating that Halfords paint was OK, I now reserve my judgement and remain cautious with their paint, and I now do more test sprays just in case…..