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>> Home > Tags > sea star

sea star
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Hellen Fishing Boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi All This year I bought an unstarted kit, but, sold it to a club member. A month later one of the club member wish to swap for a faster boat and as my Sea Commander required a repaint and fittings. I thought a swap for a very good working Hellen was a good deal. So are making a dingy and replacing the broken prop with a brass one I had my second Hellen for the year. Three weeks ago another Hellen pops up on Gumtree(aka EBAY), so it was to cheap not to buy it. While waiting for it to come, I made a new stand, a dingy with oars and a set of fenders. When it arrive the mast where laying on the deck broken, but , the posted pics show that. The motor is a 11 to 1 geared MFA Como 919 D which runs OK. A spare new plastic prop. Started on the repairs, like the keel and deck around the mast bases. The aft mast was broken in half, so I brass sleeved it. The aft sail was missing and the forward sail was all glued up, so I bin it. So this is the boat pics so far. Canabus

Sea Queen by sidley70 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Can anyone help!! I am in the process of restoring an Old Sea Queen and have nearly finished it. I need to know what the running lights look like (Port & Starboard) and any other fittings (Lights ,Horn etc) Sid🤓

Left the harbour by GrahamP74 Admiral   Posted: 26 days ago
EmilyPII left my Harbour yesterday and has headed north to Manchester.. she will be on a lake with her new Skipper Andy.. I loved making her and am glad she will be used regularly! EmilyP III is still in the Harbour and search now starts for a new fishing boat project...

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Boiler dried out the wood, no great surprise huh? Same happened to my Sea Scout🤔, 7 years in the cellar at my last place and 20 years here in the kitchen/workshop before I started on her last year. Be happy if it didn't crack like mine 😭 Such is life, Happy straightening, cheers, Doug 😎

Fittings & Detail Parts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Pete, "Moorhens — sometimes called marsh hens — are medium-sized water birds that are members of the rail family (Rallidae)." Good ol' Wiki😉 When they are young they are much smaller, brown and fluffy. You often see up to six of 'em in 'convoy' behind Mum 😁 Maybe they have a different 'handle' in N America? 'Marsh Hens' perhaps? I guess plastic / PTFE is OK, after all as you say, the Tugs are not exactly Sea Greyhounds so they ain't under much stress😉 I never guessed either😲 Re humble pie! Ask the Missus to top it with Lemon meringue, delicious 😜 Crow with Sage & Onion stuffing perhaps!? Anyway we all had to start somewhere as well😉 More soon, am currently stripping the hull of my 28" Elco PTB, prior to repainting in Pacific camouflage as PT109😲 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: YOOHOO! The new ESCs for the PTB just arrived 😊 HobbyKing HK-30A, 30A cont. complete with finned heat-sink and fan connection, $10.29 a chunk. Can't grumble at that Grimble😁

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? It would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin

what have I got? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yep, that's what the Aussies have replicated with better magnets 👍 Should run fine on a 10 cell 12V NiMh or a 3S 11.1V LiPo. AFTER you've checked and cleaned up the brushes and commutator!! Have fun restoring, I know what's ahead of you cos I just did the Sea Scout my Dad built in the early 60s and have started on an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW To go in the cutter I renovated a 50s Taycol Target Dad had put in the Sea Scout, and modified it to run forward and reverse via an ESC and RC. Details are on the site somewhere 😉 The Sea Scout is now brushless!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Good morning, guys. I got the pilot house roof off of my boat by using bits of advice from both of you. I looked closely at the seam where the roof attaches & sure enough found a very fine gap. Doug: I trimmed my fingernails just yesterday so my built-in scraper/screwdriver/seam separator, i.e. thumbnail, is too short to be of use for a while. Ed: Following your lead I carefully worked an ultra-thin blade into the seam & after about 30 seconds I had the roof off without damaging a thing. Excellent! I’m impressed at how well the roof presses in place. Only the paint had “glued” the roof on. Looking at the photo you can clearly see the ceiling bulb (white wires), which is the same kind used for HO scale & larger locomotive headlights, among other things. The blue wires near my thumb (notice the neatly-trimmed thumbnail) run up to the search light on the roof. You can also see the black & red & black & green wires running to the port & starboard side lights. I think I’ll add a multi-pin connector as part of my overall upgrade plan for the tug so that I can completely remove the roof if I want to without risking damage to those fine wires. Thanks again to both of you for your helpful guidance. You’re both awesome! Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Pete, When I worked on mine. I believe it took me about an hour or so! Just be careful with the seams! take your time. Start from the rear of the Pilot house! I first took apart the pilot house. I took the smoke stacks off! Then slowly pride the rear of the pilot house! NOTE: on mine they had only glued the glue points! If you look carefully, You can see them. They're located at each corner! Maybe you can also use a wide xacto. That's what I used back then..... Good Luck!

Council madness... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Commodore, the warden was absolutely right, good for him 👍 A coupla weeks ago I had a discussion with a little old lady while testing my Sea Scout in the Ostpark in Munich. Despite the signs forbidding feeding the waterfowl, and warning of why, she was feeding the baby swans and duck with bread and pretzels😲 I tried to explain to her that bread was bad for them as it contains only carbohydrates and minerals and not the proteins they need to grow. The birds simply have a different metabolism, they can't properly digest the bread. It blows up inside them, fills them up and in worst case can stuff them up and prevent them eating what they should do and they starve and die. 😭 Her answer "It's OK when they are in the water"!! 😡 And she was feeding them on the shore. A further unwelcome side effect is if they don't get 'stuffed' up completely everything comes back out into the water as a vile green sludge 😡 Doug

RAF ASR 1942 by CB90 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2300g RAF ASR 1942 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2860 4050kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China water cooled 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: This kit is based on an RAF ASRL Boat and is formed of High Impact Styrene for you to add your own hardware and detail. Kit includes Hull/deck/superstructure/windscreen/clear gun covers/dinghy/boat stand/servo, motor mount and instructions. Approx Length 24in x 7in 1/35th scale. HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' as the cabin looks like a whale diving. The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: You’ve been a busy man! I certainly appreciate your efforts & assistance. I haven’t removed the tug’s deck or the bottom cover of its pilot house to look at the circuit boards as yet but I’ll do it later on this morning. I’ve included a marked-up scan from the tug’s instruction booklet to show the transmitter’s current use of its function switches. I also suggested a way to add LED navigation lights to the mast (in two groups) & control them with two of the transmitter switches. Please let me know if the scan or my poor printing are unreadable & I’ll try again. The table below lists the factory-designed transmitter function switches & their original purpose. TABLE ONE - EXISTING CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - Controls (1) clear LED pilot house roof searchlight. Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight. Switch L4 - Controls (2) clear LED aft deck lights. Switch R2 - Controls (1) clear pilot house interior light*. Switch R3 - Controls (1) green LED starboard sidelight. Switch R4 - Controls the horn. *This appears to be an incandescent bulb. Table Two suggests a way of combining some of the existing functions with two groups of new mast LEDs, then using (2) of the existing transmitter switches to control them. For mast lights I’d like to add (1) yellow LED mast top anchor light, (3) clear LED forward-facing navigation lights (1) clear LED aft-facing navigation light & (1) clear LED aft-facing anchor light. TABLE TWO - MODIFIED CONFIGURATION Switch L2 - [No change] Switch L3 - Controls (1) red LED port sidelight, (1) green LED starboard sidelight, (1) aft-facing clear LED anchor light & (1) aft-facing clear LED navigation light. Switch L4 - [No change] Switch R2 - [No change] Switch R3 - Controls (1) yellow LED mast top light & (3) forward- facing clear LED navigation lights. Switch R4 - [No change] Even though an actual tugboat probably wouldn’t have all of her mast lights turned on together, I don’t mind if they’re all on at once on my tug. The modifications above result in having (4) LEDs controlled by Switch L3 & (4) LEDs controlled by Switch R3. If these changes are possible then adding the (6) new LEDs should be relatively easy, plus all lighting & the horn are still powered by the tug’s 7.2 volt battery. I plan to upgrade the battery to a much higher mAh rating to help offset the extra drain from the additional LEDs. Doug? If you’re still awake after reading this what are your thoughts? Is my plan feasible? Thanks again for your help. Pete

Dremel Battery Pack! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Here in Old Munich as well, washed out my Sea Scout trial planned for today😭 Looks like being and rainy and thundery week. Got everything packed in the rucksack ready to go if it brightens up; now let me see ... selection of drive batteries to test, in LiPo bag - check, Capacity / cell tester - check, TX and spare batts - check, Camcorder (batt fully charged) - check, Drying cloth - check, Basic tool set & Mini-multimeter- check, Bath towel if I have to swim again - 😡 Inflatable rescue kayak - !? Essential provisions (just a wee dram Officer) 😋 - check, Foam block boat stand - check, OH!! THE BOAT!! 😲 Might stick the PTB in the car as well, just to try it before I start on the reno and upgrade / conversion to PT109. In for a penny .....! Happy Dremelling Ed, mind yer fingers! Cheers Doug 😎

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Stormin, it would be nice to see your Sea Scout, apart from all the modern stuff. Where would we all be without Les Rowell and Aerokits, eh? My first model boat was a Sea Urchin which I got when I was 7. My Dad'd best mate built it and gave it to me just before he died way too young. I restored it two years ago. It still has its Kako motor, original rusty shaft and twisted tin prop. Now I have to put 3 AA cells together in a home made plastic case with a home printed Ever Ready wrapper on it to look right. When I was 11 came the Crash Tender. All around me were IC boats, but I never had one and, to be honest, I could never get any of my cousins' or mates' boats started either!" I once got an ED Bee going in a Keil Kraft Champ, but the control wires went loose and it became an habituee of the vegetable rack! But I still love IC engines now and I will defend their use by those lucky enough to start them! I love the sound, I love the smell, I love the urgency of them. And most of all hats off to the gents (and ladies) who do tethered hydros. That's real dedication. Cheers, Martin