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>> Home > Tags > seal

seal
seal
Deck Planking by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi All Finished the deck, so a few coats of wood sealer and matt vanish in the next week. Canabus

SLA question by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi J.Barry, I run SLA's in my tugboats! Yes, you can put them in any position! They are sealed and there's no liquid in them. The batteries are sealed electrolyte-tight, immune against installation attitude they are solid! Cheers, Ed

Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Been thinking how I could build a compact sealed electric smoke generator with a pump to push the smoke through the exhausts, along with the cooling water on my HSL. Are the model train smokers not big enough for your purposes. You could just copy one of those and enlarge it perhaps. From what I remember from my train days they were not too complicated. How about an upside down ic glow plug with a variable voltage regulator in the bottom of a tube with a low temp oil ? You could possibly use a small brushed ESC for the regulator and come up with a controlled drip feed replenishing system. Just seen a site SMOKE EL in Germany which makes smokers for ic and electric planes but they look expensive and complicated,- work well though,-vids on site.

fuse holder by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin bearings if you did that...

Proboat Sonicwake by boaty Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.

Cabin roof hatches by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use Cascamite. I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. In the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra £20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?

Pretend deck planking by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
May be too late, but have you thought about real planking? This was my first attempt following advice on various youtube videos and studying pictures of the full sized boat. Planks supplied by Jotika. They have various sizes and woods and worked out to quantity when I gave them the deck measurements. I used cyano to glue to a plastic deck and sealed with a proprietory outdoor satin varnish. I found it very satisfying and was pleased with the end result. Ps. Please excuse the black dots of fly sht. on the deck in the first picture. Steve

Transfers by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
If you wish to draw and colour transfers it can be done this way. Place the paper shiny side down and draw your design on the paper side An other one or two pieces of paper beneath will determine how raised the lines will become on the transfer side. Paint in between the raised lines using them as a reservoir for the paint. Enamel or cellulose can be used. A drop of Castor oil stirred into the celly will keep it from cracking when dry. When all dry use as normal and seal when in place. Not a good artist? It's amazing what you can do with a pencil and ruler and coins.👍 👍

Transfers by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
https://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/laser-decal-paper My point was and is using an inkjet requires you to seal the printed item before water slide since inkjet ink tends to be water soluble while laser printer ink is not so its one step saved. obviously once in place on a model it needs to have a protective layer of something.

Transfers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hmmmm!! Waterproof? Have you ever tested that? I'm not so sure, having used them in the office virtually since their inception. Anyway, when they are mounted on the boat / ship they need sealing in with a coat of clear lacquer or they may sometime 'float' off again. Apart from that have not yet seen any transfer paper made for Laser printers. Transfer paper made for Ink jet printers may melt 😲 in laser printers in the final transfer / fixing unit. I can tell you, it makes an 'orrible sticky mess wot ain't easy to get rid of. Doug

Spraying Again....... by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Just to feel comfortable I am going to go with a matt sealer of some sought............ NPJ

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Agreed Boaty 👍 With a plastic or glass fibre hull it's a slightly different kettle of fish. However I'm still wary of the primer absorbing moisture.🤔 Sealing with a matt or silk lacquer seems to give an extra knot or so as well😉 But here we were discussing wooden hulls. Cheers, Doug 😎

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mornin' Peter, Red primer can be a good match for some anti-fouling paints. If you are happy with the colour - fine. BUT!! Seal the primer paint with several thin coats of matt or silk clear varnish for the reasons mentioned to Neville above! Primer is porous!! Flatten the primer with 1000 / 1500 wet n dry until your fingertips tell you the surface is good. Apply the varnish in several thin coats, flattening lightly with 2000 / 3000 w&d between coats, until you have a good sealed surface. The varnish (or lacquer) will also give some extra protection against knocks and bangs 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mornin' Neville, ."How wet is wet"? Hold the paper under a running tap, warm water, until it goes dark all over. Remove excess water with kitchen roll. You don't have to flood the hull but keep the paper well wetted. For convenience I use the Tamiya sanding sponges. They mould themselves to any shape they are used on which is great for compound curves. Keep a bowl of warm water handy to re-wet the paper or sponge from time to time and to clean of the residue that builds up on the paper. Also regularly wipe off the slurry that builds up on the object you are sanding with kitchen roll or a damp flat dense kitchen sponge. When you are finished wash off the hull (or whatever) with the the flat sponge and clean water. Dry off carefully with kitchen roll or non-linting cloth. DON'T do a bath test with just primer on the hull as the primer is porous! It consists mostly of finely ground chalk dust or similar in a solvent suspension. Wait until you have at least the first top coat on to seal it. You only have to look at a car with a primed wing, that has then been driven around in typical British weather for a few weeks, to see why!! Don't forget the 'secret ingredient' 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Nearly forgot 😲 Start using a few drops of liquid soap on the w&d from the final preparation of the primer coat through til the end.

Pretend deck planking by TOWN3810 Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I seal first one coat of Danish Oil then i use Biro pen and finish with several coats of oil The Biro does not fade over time but it does if varnish is used Cheers Ian T