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>> Home > Tags > seal

seal
seal
Hull prep completed by GARTH Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Had a little time & the weather was great so worked outside putting the hull skins on I used Door skin mahogany .A sheet was about $ 9.00 Canadian Next time I use Oak Door skin That's about $23.00 a sheet . Have to now take my time & smooth all the parts .I also sealed the inside of hull with a 2 part finishing epoxy.

Sea Queen by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍 On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there! My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲 Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎

Brixham trawler IBEX by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.

Boat chit chat by Alan999 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks guys for your assistance. The motor was in sealed bag when it arrived. My electronic wizard who wires up my boats connected the motor as per usual and it was dead I phoned Howes and they found my order as it was recent and the total was £130.30 They said return the motor for testing. My grivience is that they should trust me an old customer and send another motor whilst I post their one back.

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.

Superstructure built by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Just finished building the basic superstructure. Dont worry about the enlarged window openings, they will be reduced in size to scale once the plasticard frames are installed along with the wiper pieces above the fore windows. I still have alot of filling, sanding, sealing ect to go before painting and adding the abundance of scale detail I intend putting on. I havnt bothered fitting the rear stowage bin shown on the plan as pictures of real ones generally show it not fitted. I also have a plan of scribing the bottom line of the superstructure to match the outline of the hull which will then have a spruce strip alplied to give a near perfect match between hull and cabin.

What paint type by gjtowler46 Apprentice   Posted: 17 days ago
I'd go with Eze kote to seal first. It's water based so easy to clean up after, it's waterproof when dry, fuel proof and easy to sand. I've recently used it to re seal a diagonal planked hull I built 30 years ago and it's like new. You can then apply whatever type of paint to finish

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark

Deck in! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
After a week away in Lanzarote, have had a couple of days to get some work done. Left side of hull is now fully sheeted, gaps filled and awaiting final sanding and glass clothing. Decided to get ahead of myself and have fitted all the deck pieces and the cabin deck formers. The inside of the hull has had a second coat of epoxy resin and will get a couple of coats of yaht varnish once the final pieces of internal wood parts have been fitted to include battery tray, motor mounts, prop shafts, servo rail, ESC tray, receiver tray, speaker/engine sound module tray. Up at the bow have fitted the wood for the on/off switch, sanded, sealed and primed the bow deck before adding a couple of the detail parts.

What paint type by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave

What paint type by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium crystals doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
RN. Combined as in horn and engine in one sealed unit. Trouble is that the engine sound stops when horn is operated........ The one you sent the image of. Best I have seen so far. All the best. Neville

CERVIA "TUG" 54" (4.5 foot long) by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Another boat my Dad started. A large fibre glass hull of the tug 'Cervia'. I would be interested if anyone has any information about the hull producer. I know it was purchased from Pontins model makers festival, Brean Sands from back in the day more than 35 years ago. It was to be petrol/ electric and he spend 9 years making a 4 cylinder 4 stroke 'Sealion' engine from scratch to power it, along with some windscreen motors from a Land rover. I've attached some pictures and work could continue if I find the will, after the huntsman is complete.

IS THIS FISHY OR SOMETHING ELSE by Les-Forbes Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
IS THIS FISHY OR SOMETHING ELSE : I bought this Joysway transmitter J4CO5 from a well known on-line supplier. It is brand new but arrived wrapped in a Tesco plastic self seal bag and housed in a FLYSKY FS-I6 box. Can't make contact just now with the company, but should I press for the correct box in the event if I may wish to resell in the future.

PT109 Refit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Maurice, no don't worry about the stand. I'm going to make an 'Allen_A tissue box special for it' 😉 Separate blog to follow shortly 😁 Yep the 37mm should arrive tomorrow, which is fantastic service considering I only found and ordered it this morning😊 Yep I'll leave the motors and ESCs as they are for now - see how it goes and if I can keep up😉 Pale green paint and clear matt lacquer arrived from Italeri today and ColourCoat MTB Green is on order. I think the first thing I'll do is gut her (don't wince) and seal the hull inside with EzeKote. "Hey ho, hey ho it's off to work we go"😁 Cheers Doug 😎