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>> Home > Tags > seal

seal
seal
Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Hi John, yep, as mentioned above I know them and have some of their modules. Sonar sound (pinger) for my destroyer, twin ESC with rudder mixer, will probably also go in the destroyer. With a 12:1 LoA to beam ratio she needs all the help she can get for a sharp turn 😉 Delivered pronto to Munich as well 😊 Well made and highly recommendable 👍 Their documentation is also superb, 5 stars! Phew, just finished stripping the PTB hull, now I've got two hulls to sand, seal, strengthen and paint! All go folks 😁 Cheers all, Doug 😎

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Hi Martin, Yes I'm very happy with it. 😊 Not the cheapest but very good. I use the whole range from Base coat Pore Filler (Sanding sealer) through matt, satin and full gloss varnishes. In both brushing tins, for small part brushing, and spray cans for the bigger stuff like hulls and decks. The cans don't reveal what the base is but the thinners is white spirit or any of the usual 'universal' substitutes. It's made in Holland, supposedly specially formulated specifically for model builders! But it's available all over the shop, I get mine here from Krick. Just Google Lord Nelson varnish and you'll find loads of outlets, and Hotels 🤔! For Sea Scout I used all spray; 2 base coat, 2 coats of satin varnish, as undercoat! Then 2 coats of Gloss varnish. Needless to say thin coats! And left to harden under a 300W halogen lamp😉 Lots of 'flatting' back in between culminating with 3000 wet & dry, wet with a little liquid soap. Final polish using two stage paint cutting / polishing paste from the Petrol Head world. See pics. Full details (including the bloopers😡) in my Sea Scout Build Blog. Have fun with it, cheers, Doug 😎 PS Shame about the Lupins😡, that hybrid sounds fantabulous! 😉 BTW: if you use the brushing stuff thin with 10 to 20% white spirit, otherwise you'll find, as I just did with base coat sealer on the deck of my PTB, that it takes yonks to get the brush marks out 😆

Warped wood by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
OK, Doug, you just sold me on Lord Nelson spray varnish! Is it enamel? Obviously it's external capable, but I never heard of it. It would seem to have done your mahogany a treat! I have brush painted and rubbed down cellulose sanding sealer on all the woodwork on Vanity, but will need to varnish it all eventually and whilst I find brushing varnish with a fine sable an almost therapeutic activity, there's always the risk of it building up in internal corners which is almost impossible to shift. Cheers, Martin

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Evenin' All, I had the same problem with the cabin roof of Dad's 1962/3 built Sea Scout. First I thought I could just remove the ply tops and flatten them, hot water and then under a car battery overnight. But the ply was cracked and curled just at the overhang so even after gluing, soaking and straightening it was still cracked and useless. So finally I soaked the frame alone in hot water and left it under the battery for a day and a night, with suitable wedges to get the right shape . In the meantime I made new roof skins from 1.5mm mahogany. Worked out quite nice in the end. Took a while though to get it right, especially along the centre line seam. Then I set 5mm round neodymium magnets in the corners, with counter parts set on wooden brackets inside the cabin walls to hold it on at speed on the wet stuff. Before assembling and varnishing with Lord Nelson spray gloss varnish I sealed all parts with two coats of Lord Nelson spray wood seal. Survived it's sea trials quite well. https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw Penultimate pic shows the before 🤔, last pic shows the after 😉(while fitting new tinted windows) Cheers, Doug 😎

what have I got? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Bryan, yep, that is a Bassett-Lowke. I was going to say, but wifey has had me out doing stuff on and off all day. I can't moan as she's bought me a new RC set for my birthday next month. I think your Bassett-Lowke motor will be fine and the new mags from Oz sound great. My Basset-Lowke goes well with its own mags so far and is going in my Darby One Design stepped racer (a la Oulton Broad). I would keep it all as is, just do some repairs. That cabin roof looks like it could be repaired or replaced without spoiling things. Cellulose sanding sealer is your best friend on plywood models as it puts that slight amber tinge to the wood, existing or new. Doug's yer man to advise on batteries and lecktricks generally. Looking forward to seeing this progress. Cheers, Martin

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Doug, I spotted that section round the bottom, too. Interesting. I think it's meant to be a kind of sealing bead of square section, probably ramin or teak. Mahogany wouldn't last long in that position as it doesn't like constant exposure. But it will have to go on the model. The half round can just be filed into the edge of the tops. Martin

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? 😉 With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chains😉😊 Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey 😉 I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. It happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Duke of Cornwall by Neil-S Seaman   Posted: 24 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 51"/7000g Duke of Cornwall Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 20mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electrinize (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a static scratch built model constructed by a model engineer probably in 1970s, I was gifted the boat by the local RNLI Branch with the proviso I looked after it and occasionally displayed it on Flag Days. The boat is a model of the Lizard and Cadgwith lifeboat 'Duke of Cornwall' which saw service for 20 years and saved 95 lives. I have fitted 6 channel San,wa remote control and the Torpedo engines and batteries. She runs very well on the water and achieves a good scale speed when both motors are at full power. Batteries are 12 volt gel type and new, I have never had a problem with endurance. Control is by two Electronize speed controllers which plug in independently to receiver. She has a two tone siren, worked from retract servo switch, which is useful for clearing a way through birds. Steering (like the real thing) was rather sluggish, a single blade rudder but it improves by using the two engines. She is pretty heavy to lift into the car, I use nylon strops to lower her into water. I have done several adjustments to her topside so that she more correctly resembles the 1962 Barnett lifeboat she is modelled on, main adjustment was to put mahogany veneer onto to forward and rear bulwarks, as the originals had. The original boat topside was painted grey and it was only later that areas were painted orange, she is a non self righting lifeboat one of the last of this type and modifications were made in the mid sixties to seal off the rear doors and provide a watertight compartment, as well as fully enclosing the wheelhouse (the model's wheelhouse is open at the rear, as was the original. All hatches and doors open. The railings are chain link and seem to be a very good match to the ones fitted. My only issue at the moment is the radio wires which seem to be very vulnerable, have used electric thread but not a great solution - something to look out for. I have purchased 3 crew and am about to paint them, two will be in the wheelhouse.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Ships boat continued The ships boat is almost complete now have got the floor and seats fixed in place ready for sanding and sealing. have got some more of the rigging completed just a few more bits to do before fitting the sails. thanks Doug for your kind words

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes E.T Westbury "Sealion", we have many homemade engines in boats made by my father, Whippet, Seal, Wallaby, Kiwi, (attached). Council finally put a sign up at our lake, no IC engines. Endorsed by the sailing lads. It was also a lake for tethered hydro's in the past built especially by employee's of the Cadbury group for power boating. sign of the times! The Sealion engine was to go into a small tug.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Ooh, is that a Westbury Sealion? Lovely. Have you ever tried asking the parky for proof? I did that with some jobswuff fishing geezer where we were running ICs on a river. He ummed and ahed and then buggered off. I say use em, but on your own, not as part of a club. Use public waters, canals, or sympathetic farmers' reservoirs. But use them until some cocky tosser can actually wave the relevant bit of paper under your nose. You'll be amazed how many cannot do so. And as for the 80 quid fine? I think you'll find that's rubbish. It's more than a standing fine from a copper for some things, so most unlikely and unless there are very clear signs saying the same at the waterside they can't touch you. Blackheath used to have tethered hydros. John Cobb learned about sponsons from my old boss, Mike Karslake, at Blackheath. They exchanged info on a regular basis. If you want to run IC in London go to Victoria Park, they still allow it. My Granddad was a founder member of it, the world's oldest model power boat club. But the essence is....USE THEM and wait for the jobswuff to prove otherwise and I mean PROVE! Of course, if you're happy to roll over and play dead, you deserve to be shit on. I don't have the problem. I live with rivers all round me and I wouldn't want to mix with the model boaties round here! The clubs are way too far away and difficult to get to and expensive! Martin

Deck by GrahamP74 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
I’ve fitted the deck and painted. I have also painted the internal shelves for the electrics and added my name and build details to one of the deck beams! The deck is not glued down yet. I have used plastic board and painted with a tile paint to seal.