Hi Both, I just bought some transfer paper for inkjets via Amazon. Actually came from a UK supplier, couldn't find any in Germany ?🤔 20 A4 sheets for € 15.68. Good instructions how to stop them smearing, keep your fingers off until they are really really dry and set, and how to transfer and seal them. Gloss or matt varnish, or there are also proprietary transfer 'Fixers'. haven't tried 'em yet cos the sea Scout hull ain't that far yet! Will report in the Sea Scout BR blog. Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 8/10] 38"/12500g fy55 Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 900 12 volt (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 120 amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: scratch built from a model boat magaze plan forgot who designed it though. it is built from balsa for the hull sides covered in a pair of the bosses tights before sealing and painting.The stern and deck are ply then painted to seal. all the deck and cabin fittings are scratch built from photoes found on line , the model is an on going projectadding fittings when i am not sailing it.
Hi Dave, sounds good to me 👍 I'm going to try the 'tank' method on my Graf Spee, ca 5ft, twin screw or my destroyer. No Warp engines though (ran out of dilithium crystals!) 🤔 Belfast, 4ft plus, has 4 screws so offers more scope! Outers for cruising and 'power steering', inners to surprise the ATR 'sport' boats!!?? Now looking for some miniature ESCs (5 to 10A) for my multi-screw plastic magics, ranging from 30 to 90 cm and all long and thin! Typical naval ship form. Will probably end up with Viper Micros and Micron radio for the smaller ones. Hope the rain holds off for you, sunny and warm 28°C here so on with the sanding 😡 and sealing! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi RHBaker What kind of ESCs are you using? Doug I would not use both BEC units even with your diode in place. Most manufacturers advise disconnecting one positive lead completely. Also if the ESC has a switch both ESCs must be switched on as I have damaged one of mine because it was switched off but still appeared to work. Result was similar to RH Bakers problem. I suspect the Mosfet gate voltage was exceeded without the internal power to the ESC, causing it to go permanently on. I also believe this may have been developed over time as I am sure this instance was not the first. The ESC still worked OK in reverse but went full on as soon as the stick on the tx was put forward. Further checking also revealed the internal BEC was dead. Sealed unit so no chance to repair. Both As Doug says a separate power supply is a better option if you have room, and modern switched mode supplies are freely available and will deliver much greater power for all your servos, lights etc Dave
I have seen this done a few times online and figured it would be a quick turn around; I was wrong. Every time I think I have it licked, another problem arises. I am at two pumps, one motor, two micro switches and three servos. I do not have batteries or cooling for the motor figured out. But when I get tired of my scratch builds I go back to this. I did my math and six vessels await my attention plus these two fine examples. Then, I start looking at plans for another one. I may have a problem. Latest picture is the ballast tank sealed with fittings.
Hi Dave, Ta 👍 After thinking back to the fun (and pong!) of laminating my destroyer hull I came to similar conclusions 😉 Won't have to mess about with acetone either, not so easy to buy in quantity here. Little bottles of nail varnish remover are expensive 🤔 I don't need to add strength. Just want to clean up and seal the old girl prior to painting the inside with Hammerite and subsequently fitting the new brushless and electronics. Got curious after reading all that about sealing with resin! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Ron Its food wrap as shown by Doug. I am posting some pics of a very rough set up to illustrate the process. I have used some white tissue to illustrate the white bath sealant but I think you will get the idea. The mounting blocks need to be wide enough to take any screw fixing you choose to use and can be mounted direct to the hull. Make a plate shaped to the motor diameter to hold and use some soft rubber or similar in between the plate and motor. Dont place this until the silicon has set and you have refitted the motor. I align by connecting the motor to the shaft and gently pushing into the silicon until level. Use a low voltage battery to make sure it runs freely. Then leave to set, could be a couple of days if cold before carefully removing the motor with film. Remove film and refit. As mentioned make sure any cooling holes on the motor are not blocked. Hope this helps but please ask if you need clarification. Dave
Hi Ron I use two blocks glued to the base just slightly wider than the motor can. Fill between with silicon bath sealant cover the motor in cling film (the acetic acid will attack the can until it has set) push into the sealant and run at slow speed to get best alignment. Leave to dry for a few days, carefully remove the motor and film from the motor. I then fashion a top clamp to hold the motor using some soft material between the clamp and motor. I have used cable ties and rubber bands for some lighter motors. Gives a really smooth mount and there is no noise such as you have if its bolted to the hull. Just make sure you leave gaps for any cooling holes in the mounting. Hope this helps Dave
Hi Roy A NiMh battery when fully charged is 1.4v dropping to 1.2v under load. I use similar batteries for our display boats and they give about 6.8 volts when fully charged. I am assuming your charger is indicating the 1200mAh capacity? I suggest you connect the battery to a meter and place a heavy 1 to 2 amp load on the battery and see what the voltage drops to. If it's less than 6v very quickly I would suspect one of the cells has failed. Usually caused by over discharging the pack and one cell becomes damaged by being reversed charged. If this is a recent purchase I would contact the supplier and ask for help as cells can fail sometimes. If this is not the case then it is possible to split the pack and check each battery whilst under the load. The faulty one's will have a low voltage. Any less than 1v need replacing as they won't ever take or give the full capacity. I have used pins with the meter to check the cells before splitting the pack but it's difficult. I solder a new battery of the same capacity in place and heatshrink the pack. I would check the battery with the replacement cell before sealing as the other cells may be damaged. I am assuming you are using a NiMh charger set to the correct charge current? AA cells are not as resilient as their larger cousins and do not take well to fast charging with loss of capacity being one of the symptoms. Hope this helps and you can get a replacement or repair your packs. Dave
Phantom by Tica Chief Petty Officer Posted: 26 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1000g Phantom Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D2836 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK 30 A Boat ESC ESC - Comments: Bought it as partly build, and had to take it more or less apart to make it straight. Used a PU glue for the first set of planking, what a mess but it's strong. First trails on water showed that the balance was wrong so have to re-arrange the electronics. Unfortunately the trails also revealed that I had missed something with the sealing (my wife used the same materials for her Classic without any problems) so first of all I'll have to strip parts of the mahogany plating down and redo it :-( before I'll do any thing more on this model.
Hi Chris Probably easier to apply to the hull with the deck off. You should leave the deck join area clear to allow for the glue. The bottom of the deck will also benefit and I usually use a pencil to mark where the formers join and keep the coating off this area. If you are using epoxy for the coating and the joining glue this may not be a problem. Once the deck is on apply another coat over the joints to seal. If you could a build blog would be welcome and helpful to other members, please. Dave