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>> Home > Tags > seal

seal
seal
Raboesch Prop Shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Andy It's the seal and needs to be a close fit. Take great care when removing the shaft as any dirt or grit that gets on the shaft will ruin the seal and the bearings. I have never bought one of their props but for the price I would have expected comprehensive documentation on their correct use and what if any lubrication was recommended. If you need the correct advice I strongly recommend you ask your supplier or Raboesch directly. By all accounts they are well made but they are manufactured to close tolerances and need to be treated accordingly.

Raboesch Prop Shaft by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
I have bought a Raboesch Prop Shaft, but it does not appear to be very free turning. The shaft is very free turning in the bottom bearing, reasonable through the 'ball race' at the top. It appears that the seal at the top is causin the problem. Is this normal when new ? Does it 'loosen' of with use ?

Making a Start by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
So, as per manual, built the tunnel duct former from 6mm ply. This is where i deviated slightly from the manual by making the duct from 3 laminations of 1/32 balsa instead of the depron centre and balsa outside. I used some solarfilm backing to keep the drying balsa off the former to prevent the very wet wood bonding to it, this I found out with my first attempt that stuck firm to the former and was destroyed attemting to remove! Its turned out great and after careful measuring, the rudder support was fitted (3mm Liteply substituted for the depron) and the whole thing sanded, sealed and primed ready to take VW Brilliant orange tomorrow. I made the rudders from 3mm balsa and glass clothed 1 side. ive fitted brass tubes instead of the supplied plastic tube. Last coupl of pics show the hull base with some balsa sheet added to give some extra rigidity without adding to much weight.

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave, I guess I have not run my models long enough yet since I have had no wear in either shafts, bearings or seals. I did have one seal in a Raboesch assembly, in a twin shaft model, which didn't leak but seemed to be deteriorating. Raboesch supplied a replacement free of charge. I had used Goop adhesive to attach the seal/bearing cap so it was a 5 minute job to soften the adhesive with a heat gun and fit the replacement. Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
Every time I see a post about lubricating a prop shaft I wonder why more people don't used sealed prop shafts, such as those made by Raboesch and others. It's clearly not an option if your model has the prop shaft already in place but for new construction it's a case of 'fit and forget'. I have not used anything else, ever. Is the extra cost the only disincentive to their universal adoption? Roy

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. If your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.

Costa coffee planking! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hear that Doug, but I’ve already addressed that, there is a obechi strip going round the whole edge which will seal it all in especially after a few coats of varnish. Next photos will show!

Prop Shaft Grease by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube. Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years. I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. In most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts. Choose what ever you are happy with.

Prop Shaft Grease by canabus Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi All I was told to use plumber's tap silicon grease, which I have used for 3 years and only regreased once each year. I have added oiler/grease tubes to my rudders as well. Also you can get a silicon spray like WD40, but, with the silicon spray it crawls up the shaft. With the shaft out and the tube cleaned out(pipe cleaner works well for this) a shot of silicon grease in each end of the tube(only small amount). Hold your finger over the other end and install the shaft, this stops the grease coming out as the shaft comes through. A shot of silicon spray down the oiler tube and seal silicon fuel tube sealed off at one end. Canabus

More Prop Shaft by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Has anyone had experience of Deans prop shafts, the 'sealed' type? The one that I was loking at was coded 8018.

Decking by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
First piece of decking added at the bow. I’ve used a lamination of 1.5mm mahogany and 1.5mm obechi, this will be stained and varnished at the end. I’ve also added the mid chine rubbing strake from 1/32 x 2/16 ply, blended, filled and primed and sanded with sanding sealer. Hull exterior finished apart from 2 thin coats of resin. Next job is the fit remaining deck pieces which are currently glued and laminating under some heavy books!

FeiLun FT-011 HIGH SPEED Ready to Run electric Racing Boat by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Been flying planes for many years and never thought to try boats until very recently. Just tried out the Feilun FT-011 and thought it was awesome for a first time single hull boat. Fairly quick, good run time and the fact that it will self right if it flips is a big bonus. Could not flip it myself despite some full speed tight turns but think it probably would if jumped some waves. You would expect for a relatively cheap outfit that the seals might not be perfect but after the first run there was virtually no water inside. 5.5 minute running time as well which seems decent for a 4S2200 pack. Really enjoyed it and looking forward to taking it out on the water again soon. Filmed with the Panasonic AG-UX180 4K Pro camcorder.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Motor fitted to platform and luckily there was enough depth to screw the motor platform to the stringers, I have moved the reciever forward to where it was and resecured the powerbox in a better position, just the leads with the bullet connectors from the motor to fit, although I have fitted the sealed lead acid 12 volt battery instead of the lead ballast (same weight) I have left the7.2v in situ as I trimmed the boat with them in and will see how it goes, it may have too much power on 12 volt and at least if my finger on the stick lacks control on the speed, I can slow things down by swapping over to the 7.2v batteries. If and when the sailing side is sorted, after seeing the pictures of members boats and ships, I think I will give it a good rub down and respray and smarten the inside up as well. Eventually I will get on with the Lloydsman

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thank you gents, I will get a bigger motor and reduce the prop size as I do not want it any faster than it is, also a smaller prop as everyone has said will reduce the power drained from the battery, I have a water scoop and tubing so will be fitting that today and will fit a water jacket around the motor, also I am thinking weighing the lead weight fitted in the compartment behind the motor and replace some or all of it and fit a 12 volt 7 amph sealed lead acid battery, presumably this will last longer than the present batteries fitted, or will it?