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>> Home > Tags > seal

Aft cockpit deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side. Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner. Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

Venetian Evening by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
No pressure then Doug.......................... Looking at using Halford rattle cans as used in a site build blogg. Have glass paper and wet/dry together with sealer all to hand for when the visitors leave. Will spray inside as well with some silver hammer finish I have left over. Need to consider dust and over spray on area and me! All the best. NPJ

Billing Boats St Canute Update by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Looks good but yes sand till flush and seal 3/4 coats sanding between. Then the same with lacquer or varnish. Good look with the hull.👍

"issues" by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
For those not following the Leaking Boat thread. We have a 'hitch'. Model took on water whilst in bath trials. See first image. No obvious point so going to need to do some stripping. Plan is when visitors leave I will post re the electrics and sound whilst having a go at the sanding, sealing and painting bit! Upwards and onwards. NPJ

Billing Boats St Canute Update by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello everyone, it’s been a while since l made a post about my ongoing model St Canute, mainly due to the heatwave we’ve just been through, however l have just completed laying the decking strips, which l have to admit was going well until the last few strips to the edge, boy oh boy did l struggle. I jumped the instructions as they do say to plank the hull first. At times l just sat there looking at the decking trying to get a reasonable edge and curve. I have attached some photos which some of you professional model makers will spot the errors, but it’s the best l can do so long am pretty pleased with the outcome. I have a question, should l now apply some sanding sealer to the deck strips? l am just a bit worried not to sand the deck strips too much. Any advice would be very much appreciated. I guess now l must start with the hull planking which l am apprehensive about, but hey ho it has to been done. Thanks everyone l will keep you updated from time to time, if anyone out there is also building this Billing Boat st Canute l would love to hear from you. Cheers everyone, Richard.

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Visitors have set off late to avoid traffic so only now having to close down.......... I have had a quick look at the boat and there are a fair few holes inside the structure to block up if using air pressure. To strip and paint up to the current waterline would be 'doable' for me and only need a red lead type finish and then seal. Not done that sought of think before but now on the list of possibles. Certainly not going to be on the water for the Colwyn Bay Venetian Night at the end of the month! Such is life. NPJ

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 Internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! If the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. If it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

Exciters/transducers by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Great stuff. I can do that whilst waiting for the sealer to come. Do I need to isolate (dense foam) the container from the hull or can I stick it directly on? NPJ

Leaking Boat! by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Seal off the gettable area with polythene put the hull in the domestic test tank then using a cycle pump put air into the sealed area watch for bubbles appearing (like looking for leaks in an inner tube) No bubbles no leak, move to the sealed area drill a small hole enough to get a football valve adapter in and again apply pressure and look for bubbles if there are bubbles and this is where the leak is you could enlarge the hole that the adaptor was fitted through and pour in some sealer and swirl it around .or cover the whole of the exterior of the hull with a liberal coating of clear sealer . Cheers Marky

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Never seen the spray type! I'm happy with the brush type cos, as Donnieboy says, you can also do light glassing with it, like I did to reinforce my Gina 2 fish cutter👍 Can't see how that would go with a thin spray😲 Might be useful as a sealer though? Motors, then leave alone for now and see how it goes. You can still use lighter LiPo batteries but preferably only with a 'LiPo safe' ESC which stops or slows down the boat when the LiPo approaches it's 'suicide voltage 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Neville, that far forward I would definitely look for some hull damage forward; crack in a seam or delamination? When you find it clean off all the paint around it, seal it with EzeKote and repaint. Inside fill either side of the keel in that bay with resin. Check also the skin joints around the chine. Re motors; I don't see any suppression capacitors 😲 and the motors (or the one I can see) are mounted very high giving a very steep shaft angle! Will tend to push the bow down at speed instead of planing🤔 Ciao, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Eze-Coat Is fabulous stuff to use.It is thin enough to run into any crack in hull and seal it up.I also use it to fibreglass hulls.No fuss no mess.

gannet 30cc 2 cylinder 4 stroke by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
It is, but people come on these things sometimes to just get an idea what a thing is worth. He wouldn't get that from me! I just wanted a 30cc Gannett ever since I first saw one in a cruiser like that at Victoria Park, along with a Westbury Seal sidevalve four (made by Olive Cockman)and a Channel Island Special. It was always a great club. Alas, my lathe isn't big enough to make an engine. Martin

Final Finishing before Sea trials ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Thanks Donnie, 👍 was worth the effort and generous dollops of patience! And I learned a lot along the way. I included also the 'bloopers' in my blog😡 And you're dead right, if the sun's out it bounces off her quite nicely😊 I have no idea what to do with the cockpit though🤔 I'm more used to the bridges of naval ships! All suggestions (printable ones please, all others in a sealed envelope to ...😉) will be gratefully received! Cheers, Doug 😎

Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.