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>> Home > Tags > seal

seal
seal
HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 hours ago
Hi Gdaynorm (Why does that name make me think 'strine'?) 😉 Yes you are absolutely right Duratrax seem to specialise in cars & buggies. The Sprint always seems to appear in the context of the Evader buggy series, also it is listed as discontinued on the Duratrax site! http://www.duratrax.com/downlo ads/discontinued.html Nothing lasts for ever!! Maybe it is not happy driving two motors? What is the total current drawn? Since it seems almost certainly to be an overheating problem is there sufficient cooling air flow through the boat? Recycled 5V DC PC processor fans can be useful to help here. Since you can test motors by feeding directly I assume they must be brushed. Are your batteries, LiPo or NiMH? In both cases the Sprint has a low voltage cut-out. 3.3V for LiPo, 5.0 V for NiMH. Maybe the cut-out circuit has a hysteresis effect. This means that if the battery recovers slightly when taken off load, and cools?, the boat runs again - until the cut-out point (thermal or volts) is reached again! I would expect the interval between cut outs to reduce slightly with each cycle until the battery is totally depleted. This effect is also noticeable with sealed lead acid accumulators. I would be tempted to bite the bullet and buy 2 ESCs designed for marine use (e.g Graupner Navy VR series or Viper Marine or US/Canada equivalents) and a 'Y' cable to run both in parallel from one RX port. Then each ESC only has to handle half the load. And ensure sufficient cooling air flow, or even water cooling!? How big and heavy is the boat, what type are the motors and what size & type are the props? Cheers from Munich, Doug 😎

getting old by rolfman2000 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
Alan, I don't think you need to be old to do that. At least 3 others here seem to done that, as have I. Personally, I hate getting old, but there ya go, we can't do anything about it. So long as you didn't drink the sealant, you'll be fine. We all learn with age, and experience, so stuff must get better (even if we don't 😁). Cheers, Dave. 😎

Patrol Craft Fast (PCF) Swift boat by rich96 Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 48" Patrol Craft Fast (PCF) Swift boat Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive - Comments: Scale model of the American Marines PCF Fast river and estuary gun boat as used in the Vietnam war. Little bite about history of boat: also known as Swift Boats, were all-aluminum, 50-foot (15 m) long, shallow-draft vessels operated by the United States Navy, initially to patrol the coastal areas and later for work in the interior waterways as part of the brown-water navy to interdict Vietcong movement of arms and munitions, transport Vietnamese forces and insert SEAL teams for counterinsurgency (COIN) operations during the Vietnam War.

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Alan a fleet admiral & you don't know what dead eyes are. Or have I spelt it wrong? They are on top of the chain plates & bottom of shrouds pulled together by rope threaded through the holes, to tension the shrouds. Hatches the hold & deck house no problem, but needed one near the bow. A strip of rubber stuck between 2 strips of balsa form the seal. The rubber from a split windscreen wiper. The hatch planks project at the front so hatch slides under. The back screwed down by dolly winch. The present state of play.

Battery problems by Patto Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
G/Day I have not got any idea about electronics. I have got a 47 inch Perkasa Patrol Boat running with a single Brush less Turnigy 3974-2200kv water cooled motor and a water cooled Turnigy 160A ESC running directly from a rechargeable sealed lead-acid battery RL1270(12v7.0Ah/20hr). My problem is when the motor is running at high reves it cuts out after a few minuets. Is this from low battery or wrong setup? All the help i can get to get my boat running smoothly would be much appreciated . thank you. Allan

work on solent lifeboat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi cliff If you have already covered there is not much you can do, except perhaps make sure you seal the inside in the same way you sealed the hull. I have left them in in previous restorations but water always gets to them in the end.

Recovery vessel by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi All We tested one today using PVC conduct covered with pool noodles which is a high density foam. We used hair elastic bands to hold the recovery boat to the device which also handles different width boats. The other end is faired out to help capture the other boat also if only a push is required. The forward sections can be un pinned for transport. The test today worked well on the unrequired to be rescued tug. The PVC tubes are sealed in the T sections and the removal sections forward of the joint pins.

Cockpit deck brass features. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The aft cockpit deck has two drain holes on the real boat that discharge through a pair of outlets on the transom if the boat takes on any water in the cockpit well. On my model the drains are not connected to the outlets, that’s taking the scale accuracy a bit too far 😜, nevertheless I don’t want a couple of holes in my deck letting in water so I need to fill them in with some drain gratings. I made these from some 10mm thick wall brass tubing and some 2mm brass rod. First I filed three narrow slots into the end of the brass tube about half the thickness of the brass rod and soft soldered them into the slots. The rod was then filed flush to the top of the tube to flatten the profile and form the grating slots, and the overhang filed flush with the tube sides. I used a pipe cutter to separate the finished piece from the brass tube and then repeated the process for the second fitting. The grating needs to be blocked so that It doesn’t let water through and I did this by forming a disc out of black plasticard the same diameter as the tube bore as a stopper and filling the base with epoxy to form the seal, the finished drains were then glued into the deck panel flush with the planking. I used some 1.5mm brass rod bent and fashioned to form the handles for the hatches and these were fixed with epoxy through holes in the panel. Another brass feature on the deck are the rivets around the battery hatch, these are actually some domed rivets with a 2mm head and 1mm shaft that I bought online from RB Models (Poland) along with some other excellent items from their range of ships fittings. www.rbmodel.com Finally the deck panel and main hatch cover were sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer. The panel will need some further work to incorporate the towing hook stays and I’ll cover that in another posting.

Planking…. part 3 by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
The aft cockpit deck has quite a few features that will test my novice planking abilities so I started the process by very carefully measuring off the drawings and marking out the positions of the main access hatch, battery hatch and the rear drain holes. I want the main access hatch to be removable so I cut this out from the 4mm ply panel with a Stanley knife and put it aside to work on later, the battery hatch will be non-opening and will have a false panel to represent it. I also pre-cut the drain holes but I intend to plank over these and then open out the holes later. The main hatch aperture was first bordered with 4mm maple strip with mitred corners, and the battery hatch with 6mm strip with mitred and radiused corners as per the Vosper drawings. The rear edge of the deck incorporates the two drains and I used some 2mm ply for the raised portion of this area. With these borders in place I then applied plasticard caulking strips to their edges and then proceeded to lay the 7mm maple strips onto the deck, working out from the centre line until the area was fully planked. Fortunately the spacing worked out quite well and did not requiring any narrow strips at the borders. After trimming all of the ’caulking’ flush to the planks with a sharp chisel the whole panel was sanded smooth. As I wanted a paint finish on the two hatches these were left un-planked so I shaped a piece of 1.5mm ply for the main hatch to bring it up flush with the planking and glued the two together after cutting out two small square holes that will form the lifting handles. A smaller 1.5mm panel was also made to form a false battery hatch cover, also with a lifting handle cut-out, and this will be painted before it’s glued down. A couple of bearers were fixed to the underside of the panel to support the removable hatch. After the glue had fully cured the whole deck was given a single coat of spray lacquer to seal the surface and two hatches were primed and painted the same colour as the main decks and then the false battery hatch cover glued down. I will add some brass fitting details in the next stage before the deck panel receives the final coats of lacquer. Thankfully that’s all the planking in place and I am extremely pleased with the way it’s turned out 😁

Fiberglassing by sonar Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.

Fiberglassing by chugalone100 Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Any suggestions in how to seal a wooden tug hull with fiberglass.

Lacquering the hull. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Now that the self-adhesive vinyl lettering and hull markings are now applied and correctly positioned…😉 I can now spray the lacquer finish on the hull. The gloss black areas will have a number of coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas finished in Halfords clear satin lacquer. I started with the gloss lacquer first, so the all the deck area and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas were masked. As I wanted the white waterline to be sealed with the gloss finish I masked below the line. After a thorough wipe over with some panel wipe the first coat of gloss was sprayed followed by a further two coats at 30 minute intervals. Fortunately it all went on without any runs or blemishes so I left it for a week to thoroughly harden after removing the masking. The black area was then masked from the bottom of the waterline, the area cleaned with panel wipe and sprayed with three coats of Halfords clear satin lacquer. With all the masking removed the boat was them put aside and left for a week for everything to dry thoroughly and then I polished the black area with some ‘T-cut’ polish to remove any surface blemishes and bring it to a full shine. All the hull marking and lettering are now firmly fixed and sealed and I’m very pleased with the final results. The next job will be to spray the deck and superstructure with the BS631 RAF Light Grey and then the majority of the paint process will be complete 😁

Suspected Seam by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Beat me to it, I have used WEP and scrap plastic, to strengthen all joints in a Plastic TID tug, Corvette and my latest build Vosper Gun boat.I used a small jam jar as issued with my toasted tea cake at Costa coffee, just cut up some scrap plastic into jar, pour in enough WEP to cover, seal jar with lid leave over night, then using a cheap brush paint inside and in your case outside joint, after cleaning surfaces first. My TID tug, has stood up to of many a knock, with no leaks so far, apart from when my Brother ran it down with his RC yacht and she turned turtle took on water and down she went , after a quick rescue and trip to park gents to use its hand drier, she was soon back sailing, joints still intact :-)

Suspected Seam by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Almost certainly the culprit. Is this a plastic to plastic joint? Can you add a fillet to the inside of the hull to increase the joint area? If it is all plastic you could remove the paint up to the rubbing strake and add a thin 1mm sheet of plastic all round the hull to seal the gaps. Plenty of MEK solvent will make a strong and watertight joint. I would also scrape off the paint all round the seam and fill with MEK and some dissolved scrap plastic to fill and seal the gap. Dave

Suspected Seam by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Ok, I have found a suspected leaky seam, But i'm not sure if this is where the water is coming in from yet! I do know this seam is below the waterline! going to have to seal it some how! What procedure should I use any advice is welcomed...