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>> Home > Tags > seal

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi, Ed: I did more web searching & struck gold. I found some excellent photos & great information about the Southampton’s smoke system (the Southampton is identical to the Richardson except paint & markings). Smoke fluid goes in the little tube on component “B”, not “A”. When the deckhouse floor is installed that little tube fits snugly into a raised ring on the inside surface of the deckhouse floor. The rubber plug goes through a hole in the deckhouse floor (see photos) to seal it up the filler tube. I’m going to rework the filler tube arrangement by enlarging the hole in the floor so it’ll fit around an extension tube that I’ll add onto the existing filler tube. I’ll seal the extended filler tube with a snug-fitting vinyl cap (I have dozens of vinyl caps on hand). Doing this modification will make it a lot easier for my clumsy fumble-fingers when smoke fluid needs to be added. I emailed Hobby Engine today via their website’s “contact us” page & asked them for information about the smoke system. I’m also going to contact Nick at Harbor Models tomorrow & ask him for advice as you suggested. I’ll be sure to “tell him Ed sent me”! By the way, have you had any contact with Doug (RNinMunich) lately? I half expected him to offer up some advice about this topic. A couple of weeks ago I replied to something he posted on the “LED Mast Lights” topic, but he didn’t respond. I also sent him a PM to ask how he’s doing, but he didn’t respond. He used to reply pretty much right away whenever I asked him a question or for advice. I hope he’s all right & I also hope I didn’t say something that insulted him in some way. He did a lot of design work for my tug’s lighting upgrade project. That upgrade is definitely going to get done; it’s been held up all along by a string of eye infections, then my fall, surgery & recovery. If you hear from him please say “hello” for me. I’ll post back later on & share whatever information I receive about the smoke system or fluid from either Hobby Engine or Nick at Harbor Models. Thanks for your input & advice, Ed. I appreciate it! Thanks, Pete

Shroud for Model Air Boat by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to water. It is not waterproof. Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the waterline make certain to adequately sealed or properly painted over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the water, with the exception of truely waterproof glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe

Frames glued up & water test. by GARTH Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
Just a couple more photos of the fishing boat & sealed hull with gorilla wood glue then a coat of 2 part finishing epoxy in the inside . The boat is small enough to float in the kitchen sink

1950s sea commander refurb. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the windows. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah battery, Futaba 27 or 40 Mhz RX. Futaba servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to repaint the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.

1950s sea commander refurb. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
This old sea commander was built by my dad in the mid 50's. With the help of the wife, we have started to repair and rebuild, the wife stripped it down. Doug (RNmunich) is rebuilding my taycol supermarine ready to fit into it. So far we have relaminated some of the hull boards and cabin sides. Sealed some of the sprung joints with 2 pack epoxy. Once that's had 48 hours hardening time I will rub down and coat the hull in glass cloth and Eze-Kote. I have 1 problem, the main cabin roof is missing and I don't have any plans to remake, so if anyone can help me please let me know. Thanks for reading, watch for updates in the coming weeks. Cheers Colin.

Fan Surround by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Third update today, make sure you see the two prior to this one. Mounted fan and built a styrene plastic enclosure around it. Sealed the edge with some silicone. Shown now with stopper inserted. It's ready for a test but I need to add some support legs to keep it vertical as it just rolls over right now. Joe

The deck planking. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Once again a piece of precision planking, the end product is always dependant on good planning and preparation, I used black card as my caulking (its available in a variety of thicknesses) and my thought was that it would not require any special pre- treatment other than sanding sealer and lacquer. Does the plasticard need a plastic primer?

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡 I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞 Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I'll probably go for a laser cutter in the end. A big CO2 one - but these are powerful tools, and i'd like to have a reliable cutting bed before experimenting with something that might cut the shed in half! The obvious answer is to use some driver software that does handle tool radius compensation - I understand that the Tiny board firmware is now open source with a new name - G2Core. I think it needs a bit more poke than an Arduino Uno, though. I intend to simply slot sheets of balsa into it and crank out kit parts - which means a single pass cut. One issue is how to hold the sheet of balsa down without interfering with the cut. I was wondering about a vacuum base. If you want to observe a laser cutter safely, I hear that the Yank modellers are sealing them in enclosures, and viewing progress through a webcam, which is one answer....

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
It's surprising what you can manage on your kitchen table nowadays! Laser cutters are readily available - I could mount one of these on the eShapeoko - - but the associated safety provisions would mean doing the cutting in the shed rather than the kitchen.... and the cost is not extortionate. At the moment I'm more interested in getting up to speed with the technology and the associated costs. Open Source is a wonderful invention - it means that all of your software is free, and the hardware is low-cost because there has been no R&D investment associated with it. I reckon that you can get a cutter with a 1 sq ft bed for 300-400 pounds at the moment, and the prices are coming down all the time....

Cooling coil by Dave J Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
As long as the coil toutches the motor you will be ok if it is NOT touching then simply start agaain as it will b a waste of time.............................................With regards to your painting question simplest way is to go to halfords and buy grey primer with is acrylic....if it is a wooden hull then you WILL NEED to use a coat of Halfords or Equivellent car laquer to seal the primer underneath ...rub down with 800 DRY then put your grey on top of it....reason for this is simple the primer is porous so you will need to stop water getting at the wood,if it is GRP then no need for this Dave

Priming Hull by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, Not too many photos today as I am focusing on sealing the hull. Photo shows the gray primer in progress..... Haven't finalized the paint scheme yet, probably red, green, white, some gray. Thank you everybody for your interest, please ask questions, comments appreciated. If you see me doing something GOOFY, let me know...... Regards, Joe

Crack in seam Repaired! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Joe, I did as per the instructions! Guess it's one of those thing's. What can go wrong will go wrong! She's now repaired! Good as new so to speak! I also built the Jersey City. No problem's with that one at all! I can't wait to see your Springer Tug! From what I've read you should seal her. Before you paint her! Ed

Crack in seam Repaired! by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Ed, I have the plastic hull. I used a strip of fiberglass per instructions and never have had a leak issue. At the time I did this, about 4 years ago, I was doing a lot of fiberglass work so I had the proper supplies. Adheres to plastic hull well. My current build is a Springer Tug Rescue Vessel, I am hoping to get the plywood hull sealed only with paint. We will see... Joe

Crack in Seam Update! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Star date 29.12.18 Supplemental 00.52 😁 I hope it works too Ed. 👍 Don't forget to seal any exposed wood before dunking it again. And I would recommend putting all the ballast and batteries back in (at least loosely) to recreate actual sailing conditions; i.e. water pressure on the potential leak area. I wondered why you went to such lengths anyway. Had similar problems with the restorations of my Sea Scout and fish cutter. I simply soaked the affected areas in resin, inside and out, while holding in clamps. Sand, fill (Bondo?😁), sand, paint and Bob's yer uncle and Fanny's yer Aunt 😁😁 Nevertheless; hope it works for you Ed, cheers, Doug 😎