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>> Home > Tags > servo

servo
sail servos
steering servo
servo
Trimaran USV by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi analyst We have a section All Things RC that shows basic RC set up. For the boat you will need two servos and given the size I would go for large heavy duty type servos. One will control the rudder(s) the other the engine throttle. As you are wanting endurance and you have a large model a 12v SLA with a UBEC to reduce the volts to 5/6v. Have a look at http://www.componentshop.co.uk / for a selection of what is available. Radio wise you may want to consider the Taranis long range receiver as this will give you the range you originally mentioned and certainly more than the standard X8 receivers. The aerial should be as high as possible and as far away from any interference as possible (sparks from the ignition). You cannot extend the aerial length but as you are into amateur radio this is something you will understand. Video is another matter. I believe 5Ghz is the common allocation and I suspect this will be line of sight which may be a problem on a sea going vessel in rough seas or round an inlet. The hull looks good and I look forward to seeing how you progress Dave

Trimaran USV by analyst Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 hours ago
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal. speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be fabricated locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras. I'm confused of; what size of servos should i use? How many servos? What size and type of battery? Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type? Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance

2 motors 1 esc by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I have used this type of motor and they work well. If you are after torque then a five pole motor will give more. You are running at excess voltage so they will exhibit some stress if run at full power for any length of time. You should measure the current at 12v to see what is being drawn, I believe mine when connected and running free used to draw about 2.5 amps on 12v. It will be considerably more under load. I used three 0.1 uF capacitors across the terminals and case as they will spark at the higher voltage. Do also make sure that all your (dirty) power wiring is well clear of any servo wires and the rx and aerial. They can be quite current hungry and I used an Electronize ESC on each motor. Any good 20/25 amp ESC will be suitable but if you are using two and they have a built in ESC you need to remove the red (+ve) wire from one ESC lead to the Rx. Good luck and please post details of your final choice and experience. Dave

Dr. Ing. Sander by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
The German model of fire boats. Hull with plankováním-wood, fiberglass superstructure. Drive 2 pieces motru 400 with gear ratio 1: 3, used customized truck from washer pump and powered by the 400 system. Complete illuminated flagpole, lights, cabin space and marker lights. Lifting the fire escape personally manufactured servo. Two functional water cannons. Batteries 2 pcs NiCd 3000 mA

Gaffer by NeilHodson Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 40" Gaffer Capable of 1mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a Mtronics 400 (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (6v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Built on an R36 hull to a home design based on a broads cruiser. Deck, superstructure and cabin interior finished in mahogany. Gaff rigged with treated cotton sails and fully working rigging, the mast folds at the tabernacle for transport and storage. two captive drum sail servos are mounted on removable trays either side of the mast and hidden behind a panel accessed from the cabin. Electronics are hidden inside a cupboard and the motor underneath a table. Rudder servo sits in another movable tray behind the seat in the drop cockpit.

Norstar Wave Princess by AllenA Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Built this Wave Princess 30 years ago meaning to use it with my children. Languished in attic since and now retired going to resurrect her for Grandchildren and would welcome any advice on motor size, prop shaft length, Propeller size etc etc. Picked up an as new MacGregor Digimac 111 transmitter receiver and servos at Boot Sale for £5, seems fitting I should use it for the old girl.

The deck anti-slip finish. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Canabus. That does look like a pretty good example you have picked up there👍 As Paul says it's good to put your own spin on the refurbishment, yours appears to be 180 degrees judging by your 'photos 😜. I made the opening wheelhouse hatch to allow me to get to the servo that turns my searchlight but I soon realised that I would need much better access to fit the wheelhouse glazing, portholes and all of the metal fittings that are on threaded studs, and of course all of the servo and lighting wiring. I have also got a great deal of inspiration and ideas from this site, for instance I also took a leaf out of Paul's book and cut away some of the wheelhouse bulkhead and cabin former to give me room to get a hand inside the space. It looks like you intend to do the same judging by the pencil marks on the cabin former in your last picture. I can now also, at a later date, put some detail inside the wheelhouse such as steering wheel, instruments and controls fairly easily which would have been impossible before. Good luck with the re-furb. Rob.

Dragonet by Hybrid Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
This is my 6 month in build of a fully working fishing boat .she has a real I have modified and put a 20kg winch servo so u can real in and out and have drill a hole in to the real and put another servo so u can lock the reel out to.made a back plate on the end of a cut off rod and bolted in to the hull. She has full fpv from the wheel house with a 360 spin HD camera and have even put a digital amp meter so u can look at to and see how mUchida power u have left full running lights controls off hand setc to twin brushless motor water cooled and a large 100 amp esc with air fan and own power supply going to take her out tomorrow for her maiden voyage. Witch has bin a real long time coming and a lot of blood sweat and stress to get it all to work but finally I'm there hope u all enjoy and like what I have dun thanks for reading my post Ben

Bertha by solo1274 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 45"/2800g Bertha Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 60mins Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Scratch built from Marine Modeller plans. One sail drum servo for the main and self tacking jib. A sail arm servo for the staysail and foresail. An extra servo to allow tension on the upper trisail. The bowsprit is an additional 10" on the overall length of the model. For RC sailing I have a 2.5kg detachable keel and rudder extesion ( shown in the photograph). All the deck winches are built from old clock parts. The lee boards are also functional and work in conjunction with the forward head sails and the sailarm servo. For transportation the top mast can be lowered and the bowsprit raised.

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi aeromodeller Welcome to the site. Sounds like a good project. Delaminated wood is not good so I hope your glue and clamps will fix the problem. Is the hull painted? It is usually best to strip back to the wood and cover with cloth and resin all over plus more resin on the inside to keep the water away from the wood. With your timescale this may not be an option, but you could possibly tissue cover the hull with sanding sealer/dope then repaint. Even a coat of dope on the inside will help. You will need a brushless ESC with reverse. If the propshaft is damaged or you can feel play in the bearings it may need replacing or new bearings fitted to the proptube. The rudder will need a servo and you should be good to go. Not sure of the price of crystals but you can buy 2.4Ghz cheap combo set for about £20 and even the short range will not be a problem for a model boat. A pic will allow more specific support for the model Dave

cabin cruiser by aeromodeller Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
This lady in church asked me if I could finish her dad,s boat, as am a aeromodeller thought I would have a go, having a spare skysport transmitter ,servos and things etc but when she brought it in was surprised how big it was. So first thing I was make a stand.that was a year ago now she says can you do it for this May. So the heat is on put it in my bath to see if its watertight ,there was some water in the forepeak area and the keel ply is split so intend to glue and clamp it . next job is the powertrain and control I have a skysport 4 40megahertz need a receiver for same a speed control, have brushed motor 5cm x35mm also need cristals for the radio gear , do have some servos if needed, any help and advice Thanks

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

Feathering set up by marlina2 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I am so pleased to see this blog as I am also in the midst of building my own "forcefull". Your build is much further advanced than mine so hopefully I may be able to pick your brain in future about the many problems that I am bound to encounter. Your drive system looks much like mine apart from I am using 2 x 540's low noise motors with built in 16:1 gearbox and the final drive being belt drive reduction giving me a maximum no load rpm of 230 on the paddle rims. I am using an action Electronics dual mixer & ESC's in tank steer mode for speed control. I don't know how it will handle exactly in this mode but I do have the option of a conventional mixer mode with a rudder servo. At the moment my paddles are not feathering, this is just for getting in the water quicker and will be replaced in time when I can access to a lathe to make the ecentrics

Sweet ❤️ ❤️❤️ Heart by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
You have seen it being built. Now it is done. A Nor-Star Kingfisher kit but with some scratch building too. Because of the motor being longer than how the kit was originally designed, the second bulkhead was altered. I am running it with two 2400 Ni-MH 7.2 batteries, a Futoba servo, on a 2.4 GHz Spektrum.

Rudder servo installed and working by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Making battery boxes, seats for cabin, and rear hatch cover with mahogany veneer.