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>> Home > Tags > servo

servo
sail servos
steering servo
servo
Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Aeromarine Laminates Predator 21 hull with HK 2630kv brushless outboard and Turnigy 120a w/c esc. Waterproof metal geared Servo and will have 4-6s lipo when completed.

Battery Power and Servo Mounting 6 by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with Battery Mounting means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. It is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ

Electronics Down Below (5) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Great stuff Neil Good progress👍 You have come to some very similar conclusions as I have with my Southampton conversion! have just ordered NiMH drive and RX batteries as I realised that the P94 is not Lipo safe and has no BEC. So the BEC you mention for 'less critical items' would have to be an external SBEC or UBEC! Something else to find a corner for! Also I've long since junked my ancient NiMH drive packs anyway. I've also been considering changing the rudder servo, but not because I'm fiddling with the rudders, there's no point in wasting time with that as they will be motor assisted anyway. 😉 I simply have some smaller, but still powerful, ones to give more room for the battery. I was about to tell you to remove the heatsinks from the P94 when I read further down! I thought when I ordered them that 10 quid or so for a couple of chunks of alu ain't worth it when I've got sheets of it on the shelf😉 I also concluded that the only place for a decent drive battery is between the shafts; a) ya gotta be able to get it out for charging / exchange, b) I wanted to keep the extra weight nearer midships. Keep up the good work, cheers Doug 😎

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
Thank you. Re main battery. The brackets holding gear box and motors are just more than width of battery so I have a plank across there with balsa and velcro as one of the two points to stablise the battery. Also needed to keep it away from servo. All the best. NPJ.

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks chaps at a rough estimate and using the keel as the straight edge it is about correct for the electric motor. new cables and connectors along with a couple of mini servo's, arriving tomorrow, which I intend to rig up to operate some micro switches for lights and the like, cheaper than pukka switches. Jarvo and pmdevlin, when I can get the boat to water I will take some photo's and maybe a video with the battery's in the rudder compartment and also in the compartment just rear of the motor to see what you both think.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Yes you can. It's small so not much room to get access and the rigging needs to be removeable. I have one that I converted almost 20 years ago and it sailed OK. Should be easier to fit out now as the rc gear, ESC and batteries are available in much smaller formats. Should fit well in your small pond, I don't really have anywhere safe to sail mine, hence the disrepaiur. I am attaching some photos of its present condition. Needs some restoration but hopefully shows what is possible. I used a small maxxon motor and a large brass prop over scale but it worked. The acess is via the removable cabin and the battery fits in a tray towards the front. The rx and esc fitted above the rudder servo. Have fun and please share your build.

Huntress - Rudder by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
if the tiller arm is exposed you can either use a closed loop and hide the servo or accept your going to see a control arm and pushrod for a simpler install. Other than that it works what exactly are the problems you have?

rotating radars off mast by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Seafarer, I have a few ships with rotating radars I have a few of these motors per the link below. They rotate quite well with one cell (1.4 volts) Gear Motor 3 - 224:1 90 Degree Shaft https://solarbotics.com/product/gm3/ I also have some of these, but they require a bit more vertical space. MFA 951 Series Motor and Gearbox 298:1 6volt (from CMB in the UK). I run these on 3 volts. Both are quite small. I have also used old servos in a couple of places.

rotating radars off mast by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for years😉 But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple direct drive coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎

LCT by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 42" LCT Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type) Direct Drive to a 2 x 400 brushed (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (9.6v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronics 25 ESC - Comments: Built from a free plan and build article by Glynn Guest in Model Boats mag December 2009, but modified to suit 1/16th Sherman tank which is also radio controlled. Mainly balsa and lite ply construction. Ramp operated on pulley and servo arm system. Work in progress. Still needs gun turrets and handrails etc.

nearly there by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
I am just waiting for the sails from Mastman then i can complete the build I have changed the drum winch for a standard servo i extended the arm it gives more pull on the sails seems to work better time will tell like all my buddies i am thinking about my winter build i am torn between a hovercraft or a smaller barge i will probably end up doing both 😉

Bulwarks - and 1st blood! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 23 days ago
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. It is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.