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>> Home > Tags > servo

servo
sail servos
steering servo
servo
All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Martin, You don't have to know what it MEANS you just have to do exactly what it says. It's written in surprisingly good and clear English compared with most! Even with the old 'dumb' RC the rule was always TX on first and off last. Just to stop the servos and motors going bonkers and maybe chopping your fingers off.😡 Take it slowly and go step by step and you'll be OK. Cheers, Doug BTW; thanks for waking me up with the foghorn 👍 nearly missed the 4th frame of the Sullivan vs Trump duel. No not THAT Trump 😁

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Haverlock, Good point! I took that as a 'given' since it is 'standard procedure' to stop servos and motors going uncontrolled wild. Rule for the RX is OLOF, On Last Off First. Cheers, Doug

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off' voltage. BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😡 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most Futaba sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and Windows will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎

coastguard by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I bought the hull from a member on here i stripped the insides and redone it to take the rudder servo i then made the motor mounts from ply i used epoxy to set them in it runs nicely on the two 45mm brass props i will make the superstructure from lite ply

fair wind by keithtindley Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/2000g fair wind Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 15mins Powered by NiCad (6v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: kyosho fair wind yacht .This is getting on for twenty years old,it is a big yacht wth a main mast and sails that is over 4 feet high.The electrics are futaba and it has two servos fitted one for the rudder and the other is for the sails.The hull is Abs with the mast and booms made from aluminum.I purchased this in a poor state with problem electrics and in need of tlc.

The wheelhouse navigation light. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.

Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" by lhpen Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Any one interested in buying my Yacht ? ''Starlet'' Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" all plywood construction, 11" beam x34" length, sail area 465 Sq inches. Complete with heavy duty sail arm large servo and rudder servo installed. Good sails although slightly marked and rigging. Install a receiver ready to sail.£135 Best if collected in person. Located in West Surrey.

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

Vosper by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 42" Vosper Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Geared to a Os 40 fourstroke (3 Blade) - Comments: I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool.

Update 2 by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi All Installed the rudder with oiler, also installed the 60 turn motor with metal joint from banggood. Installed the 4.5KG servo with linkage to the rudder. First coat of Matt 37 which showed up a few spots that require a bit of filling. Canabus

Search light by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
A working search light seems to be expected on this craft so here goes. Based on Robs build I purchased the lens and the LED from Maplin’s which seemed to fit the bill. The only piece that will be used is the main body that is supplied as a white metal fitting, the rest will be replaced by a brass construction, as the rest of the parts are not substantial enough to support a working unit. First, I need some 3/16 half round brass bar, the easiest way is to machine my own cutting just less than half the diameter away. The half-round bar was annealed before bending round a suitable mandrel to a half circle. I then soldered an 8BA nut on each leg to act as the swivel bearing. Next, I machined the body’s internal bore to suit the lens body and skimmed the outer rim and face, finally bore out a small recess that locates the lens in place. The two pivot holes need to be drilled and tapped 8BA, and then a drilled hole in the rear wall for the wires to exit. As the light is to be both working and rotating the base has is to be made with a centre spindle that connects to a micro servo under the roof. The connecting devise was a bit of a headache trying to make it fit in a relatively small space; I used the supplied servo arm with four legs (shortened) and then machined a mating part with pins that located in the arm that is attached to the body above deck. The LED was modified to fit in the white metal body as it has a heat sink which was too big; as others have found cutting it down didn’t affect the heat dissipation when fixed in the white metal body, this was fixed using a small amount of Milliput. Having already machined the outer flange on the body I turned up a brass-flanged ring to push fit on the body this has to have the TRI form guard added. I made this from a central pinion with three holes drilled to accept the bent brass nails; these were soft soldered in position. The TRI form was then located on top of the brass flange and again soft soldered in position At this point all the components will have to be dismantled for final finishing before being painting.

Transfers by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
If you wish to draw and colour transfers it can be done this way. Place the paper shiny side down and draw your design on the paper side An other one or two pieces of paper beneath will determine how raised the lines will become on the transfer side. Paint in between the raised lines using them as a reservoir for the paint. Enamel or cellulose can be used. A drop of Castor oil stirred into the celly will keep it from cracking when dry. When all dry use as normal and seal when in place. Not a good artist? It's amazing what you can do with a pencil and ruler and coins.👍 👍

Gypsy Sloop Jr. by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Go with swing arm servos for sail control, less trouble with the lines than winch. If room is a problem one can be used to control jibs & main. but separate controls are obviously best.

electrical connectors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi TJ, 1: "grouper connectors"!? Do you mean Graupner? Pics please. 2: What the heck are 'Halford connectors'? Bullet connectors perhaps? 3: Why two types of connectors at all? 4: Fuse; I actually recommended a fuse between the drive battery and the ESCs to protect both the ESCs and the motors. The switch is normally for the RX only, unless you can find a high current switch which isn't too big to put between the drive battery and the ESCs. Fuse for the RX supply is not normally necessary, especially if a BEC supply is used. With a separate RX battery maximum a 2A fuse. The RX takes only a few milliamps BUT each decent size servo will take up to 500mA. So 2A will do for up to 4 servos. Which motors by the way? Odd that they have different connectors😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

USCG POINT GLAS by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
The 70-year US Coast Guard semi-deck. All-metal construction, 2 x MIG 480 motor, standard servo, model illuminated on two circuits. One light mast, position lights and cabin. The second lighting circuit in the hull of the ship and the outdoor lighting around the superstructure. There are no labels on the model yet, I'm waiting for the fabrication. Battery 1 x LiPol 4000 mA. The total construction took me half a year. I made the hull made of laminate from my friend in Slovakia. The superstructures themselves are made of laminated boards. Part of the light bulbs are 6V lamps and the strobe with positional lights are the LEDs of the light triggering through two RC switches.😉