Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 7 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (13)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > servo

sail servos
steering servo
Help boat problems by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
Hi Welcome to the site You haven't stated what ESC you have so it's a bit difficult to give advice. Most ESCs require some initial set up and it sounds like yours needs adjustment. If you can work one servo OK you presumably have a separate Rx battery? Many ESC's have a built in BEC and don't need a separate battery. There are 5 channels on the Planet so its important that you are using the correct channel for your rudder and ESC. You can use the rudder servo to select the channel you want to use for the ESC then plug the ESC into that channel and the servo into the rudder channel. We need to know what ESC you have to give further advice? Dave

Help boat problems by DragonMike Apprentice   Posted: 3 hours ago
It's been in storage for 6 years as I just gave up on it. I'm trying to get it going got a planet 5 receiver all wired up correctly a 4500 mah 11.1v lipo battery . As soon as i connect the battery to the motor it starts turning. When the battery isn't connected the servo seems to work and turn on command. Is there a throttle servo anywhere? I'm totally stuck and really want to get the beast going. Yeah I'm a total newb and any help would be massively appreciates. Cheers

The lighting circuits. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast ights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification is required 😎

Norstar Wave Princess resurrected by AllenA Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
At last The Wave Princess sails again. She is not quite planing yet. She has a Speed 600, cheap '320' amp esc, Macgregor MR23A receiver and a Carson Reflex CS3 servo, 12" Graupner propshaft. Quite proud of the home made prop support, I will never throw out an aluminium cooking pan again. Rookie problems are: 1. slight bend in prop makes it a little noisy but improved with vaseline and WD40 mix. 2. Have a 50mm prop at the moment will reduce that to 30mm and work my way up until I get best result. Will change to Brass eventually. As you can see the front cabin has an incorrectly fitted visa lip which has taken me 30 years to realise, that will be rubbed down and flattened. Really pleased that my bootsale MacGregor transmitter works as if new with a few new connectors to fit the ESC. My first one of many and, hopefully, tidier boats. Any advice and guidance would be warmly welcomed

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 40"/4000g Koh-i-Noor Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Geared to a Robbe (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitec Gold (10Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. It was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. It came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy.

Pics of running gear and skins by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Dave M is right about lowering the prop angle and motors. My Aerokits Sea Hornet has only 10mm clearance to the top of the prop and I cutout part of the keel to lower the motor. I installed a 1900kv 28mm brushless motor, 30mm 1.4 pitch 2 blade brass prop with a 2650mah 3S behind the last frame with the rudder servo parallel to the transom. Added a small bit of lead under the front passenger seat to move the CG forward. Very quick little rocket at full throttle.

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
After a long pause I am as far as propshaft, motor and rudder installation. I need a servo next but spent all my pocket money climbing a mountain in Wales this month. It was good but wet. The motor lives on the usual alloy bracket, screwed to two wooden plinths made from strip laminated with araldite. It's all standard stuff but making it this way allowed me to shim the height correctly, the strip being about 1.5mm thick. I'll post some pics if I can work out the Google drive thing but you will also see that the lower skins are on and after the servo installation I can think about the upper hull skins and then the superstructure. All good stuff😀.

Futaba Attack 2ER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Hughie It's possible then that the problem was pre the aerial cutting. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs but it is easier to suggest ways forward if all the basics have been covered. If the set was working some time in the past then I would check the crystals. If you can move any of the pins chances are it is broken. Over time crystals can deteriorate for no apparent reason as the internal crystal is encased in a glass vacuum and uses very fine wires for connectors. I appreciate you wish to keep the existing set but if you do have to buy crystals it may be worth considering a 2.4 combo set (Tx/Rx no servos) as the cost may not be much different and will work with your servos. Cheers Dave

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Dave Thanks for your reply. No, I didn't try the RC before the aerial got broken. Yes, I have stripped the wire and twisted them together, but haven' t soldered them as yet. I haven't put the battery plug in the servos or vice versa.I will try what you suggest and let you know how I got on. Cheers Hughie👍

Futaba Attack 2ER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Hughie I am assuming the set was working before you cut the aerial? You did bare the wires and twist the copper wires together? If it was, have you changed anything else? Did you remove the crystals and are they in the correct place ie Tx in Tx? I have just repaired a 27Mhz set and the TX crystal had failed for no apparent reason. Replacing with another crystal fixed the problem. If you have or can borrow another set of crystals at the right frequency and type you can see if they work. Perhaps a local shop may be able to help without you having to buy? From your description the power is ok, the servo moves so is plugged in the correct way. You have used one of the channel sockets and not the battery socket for the servo? Let me know how you get on Cheers dave

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I have installed a Futaba Attack 2ER receiver plus 2 servos in my fireboat. Both lights are 'on' on the transmitter, and there is the correct voltage coming from the battery supply to the receiver. When I plug in the servo ,the servo moves a bit. However, the transmitter has no effect on the servos. I have checked and rechecked the connections. The aerial was cut, but I have joined the parts together temporarily. Can anyone give me any advice? Cheers Hughie

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
O.K Seems I still have something missing the rx is a 6 channel but now only the servo and the throttle goes into it am I missing something else ?

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go

D. Ing. Sander by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 33"/2600g D. Ing. Sander Capable of 11mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Chain to a MIG 400 , 1:3 (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DSYS 32A (15Amps) ESC - Comments: German Fire Ships, Hull Flying, Cabin Laminate. Assembled 2 400 series motors with 1: 3 transmission, 1 piece engine 400 with water pump modified water pump for washing the windscreen of the car, cabin lighting, mast, spotlights, positioning lights, lifting the firefighting ladder through a hand-made servo.

Sovremennyj Clas by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Russian rocket cruiser, TRUMPETER kit in 1: 200 scale. Micro-servo, 2-series 200 series, 2200 mA LiPol battery. Riding only on calm water.