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I am not an electric sort of bloke. What surprises me with the problem is that everything worked well for a long time. She has basically the same set up as my other ships, basically simple. Battery, speed control, two motors turning two shafts, with shafts lubricated. The battery fully charged, the radio and receiver set up okay, motors run with no problem when fed current directly, and no problems with prop shafts. Maybe my best bet is to simply obtain another control same as original. I get the impression the Duratrax is meant for cars?
Well I'm damned! Checking my VR30 ESCs I found attached spec! Never noticed this offset in operation before, maybe because naval ships don't have much freeboard at the stern so I take it very easy anyway. You live and learn 😎But then that's what a forum is all about.👍 Sailing here today near impossible, only 3°C and sleet
Wow! Super project 👍 Here the complete history of the ship (Thanks Wiki 😉) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ HMS_Lion_(1910) What's the state of play? How far have you got? Please post some more photos, inside and out, and a list of components; motors, props, ESC, battery, RX and TX. Then maybe we can see what the next step might be. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi there Thanks for the question, It was the Lion from WW1, had a gun cover blown off at Jutland, was the flag ship to that dick head Beatty, who got those ships & men blown through his incompetency during Jutland. Do you know the one, she was built 1912-1914, was flag ship throughout WW1, was scraped I think 1920-21?
hi, I built this from scratch, drew my own plans from pictures I had so not exactly to scale it is about 14 inches long and sails well in my small pond. you can get the revel lightship on ebay some times but are getting rare now. david
I have a rather expensive dilemma and am really hoping that somebody might be willing to help me please…I have a £100, HMS Lion hull and £200, driving gear made specifically for this ship. I used to make RC Ships with a close friend, but he passed away beginning of this year. The problem I have is I was in a road accident a long time ago and as a result I damaged my brain, fracturing my skull. My friend use to be my memory for me explaining what has/had to be done because I forget after a very short while. I am not asking you to pay anything, it was our ship, his uncle or something served on her just after Jutland and Bill wanted to make as much as he could, this is now I want to make as much, I realise that I am asking a lot, but I’m not that bad and it might be fun, I’ve already built 4, ships with Bill, if you’d like a chat my email is firstname.lastname@example.org or leave a message here I’ll then give you phone numbers…Thank you Damon😁 PS. After all the above I forgot to mention where I'm located, sorry...I live in Basingstoke, Hampshire I apologise for not replying folks but I'm afraid this is part of my problem, I forgot I'd placed the request & I now need to remember how to reply to each response 07706,439865 this is my mobile...thanks, sorry I have plans of HMS Lion, but there isn't any measurements on the plans, I've tried converting the plan to the size of the hull I have, it's about 6ft in length
My model is well advanced, but the problem is not so much drawings as main detail of the port side of the island. As the ship underwent fairly extensive modifications during her career, my model is really a bit of a hybrid, in that she will be mostly accurate, but over a period of some six years. I am also rather stuck with the detail beneath the round down of the flight deck aft. Photographs off the net tend to be rather blurry. She currently has six Swordfish and will have six Fairey Fulmars.
Hi, plans for Victorious of the same class are easier to find, for example http://www.fleetscale.com/stor e/gb/hms-victorious-ww2-aircra ft-carrier/503-1-128th-hms-vic torious-drawings-plans.html You can also find photos and info on Illustrious (WW2) here http://www.fleetairarmarchive. net/ships/ILLUSTR IOUS.html Attached is sample photo and a simple GA plan I found. You could also try here https://blueprintsofwarships.com.pl/ Profile_1a.htm They print to order so delivery sometimes takes time, in the past I bought PDFs for 'instant' download but they seem to be stopping this service at end of April 😲so hurry up! My long term project is HMS Ark Royal WW2, plan hanging on the wall for 2 years now!! Good luck Doug 😎 Doug 😎
Ahoy Shipmate, Try this http://www.model-dockyard.com/ acatalog/John_Lambert_Warship_PLans.ht ml I've used several of John's plans, especially for WW2 naval weapons. Let me know how you get on, if you don't find anything I'll check my sources here in Germany. Good luck. Doug 😎
Hi Patto, forget the 'watt meter' and consequent P=IV -> I=p/V conversions! What you need to measure is the actual current drawn, especially the stall current, if you can manage that without getting any fingers chopped off 😡 On the lake anything can choke the prop so just testing 'free running' is not the whole answer. Sounds to me simply that your setup is drawing so much current that any battery or accu will go flat in a few minutes. Your example of a 5300mAH (i.e. 5.3AH) means that in perfect (!) condition, fully charged and almost zero internal resistance (int. cell resistance wastes power so buy the best quality you can possibly afford) it can theoretically supply 5.3 Amps for 1 hour. or 53 Amps for ~ 6 minutes (1/10 hour). and so no. LiPos with C values of 130 sound great BUT the discharge C value is related to the AH rating. So taking your example of 5300mAH = 5.3 Ah 130C = 130x5.3 = 689Amps! The Accu would supply that for ~ 27 seconds before departing to the great recycling centre in the sky! If you ever decide to try such an experiment PLEASE let me know in advance and I'll fly over the record the event for posterity 😉 Seriously though folks: I can't comment on the prop/motor setup, one of my weaknesses - I always check my stalled motor current draw with an ammeter before selecting the ESC - but as an electronics engineer I do have some idea about power supplies and circuit requirements etc. Can't imagine that your setup exceeded the 160A (short term remember!) rating of the ESC so that seems to be faulty, but you still need to find out what current your setup will draw under severe load i.e. stall. If just holding the boat cause blow ups then something else is fundamentally wrong 🤔 Bit long-winded perhaps, much of the above makes sense but not the whole story, time to cut to the chase I thought. MEASURE THE CURRENT! Good luck. Doug 😎 By the way the above comments about lead acid & hi current are OK. They are more useful for long term supply of low to medium currents. I still use them in some larger scale models (~ 1.5metre naval ships) as they provide useful ballast (i.e. payload) instead of JUST ballast! The 20HR of your lead acids refers to the Hourly charge Rate, i.e 1/20 of the capacity in AH, in your case 7/20 = 0.35A or 350mA.
Hi from Munich There is a saying amongst ship modellers here in Germany "Schiffsmodelbauer sammeln alles was nicht unbedingt in zwei Wochen zu stinken anfängt !" "Ship modellers collect everything that doesn't start to stink in two weeks!" On that happy note Goodnight from Munich 😎
You might try here for some help: http://www.melik.org.uk/articl es/nile-gunboats/gunboat-melik / Otherwise it looks as if it's available in paper form only (waterline) Here's another link to maybe help what you're looking for: www.the-blueprints.com/bluepri nts/ships/ships-other/8 112/view/tss_melik__gunboat___ 1898_/