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>> Home > Tags > show

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Fireboat and Sunderland together again by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 hours ago
yes its me! Dynam Catalina with 2200mah 3 cell lipo, gets about 8 to 10 mins flight time, here with the tide out and me trying my best to land on a puddle! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxefbO2ucow&t=1s available in a lot of rc model (plane) shops, and more so online, motors esc etc all preinstalled, you just need to add rx and batt and fly (after some essential easy mods!) https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/ style='background-color:yellow;'>showthread.php?1455058-Dynam-PBY-Catalina-Owners-Thread

What is this boat ????? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Looks like an early Aerokits Sea Hornet. http://lesromodels.co.uk/product/aerokits-sea-hornet/. The construction suggests a model from the 1960/70s, are you sure it's fibreglass, the hull shows wood? Would look stunning when restored with say a 35xx or 42xx brushless coupled with a 35/40mm prop 100amp ESC and 11.1/14.8 LiPo. Make sure you find a few model figures to add realism. A build blog would be welcome, please. Good luck

ANGLE RNLI 150th ANNIVERSARY by battleshipbuff Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
I have been asked to put on a Model Lifeboat Display for the 150th anniversary of the Angle Pembrokshire Wales,Station, 11th and 12th AUGUST 2018 this will be in a marquee close to the water so you can chose to display on or off the water or both NOTE SALT WATER! I am inviting Model Lifeboat owners from all over the country,and a few have expressed their interest already. Hoping to make it the biggest model Lifeboat Show in Wales for the year, and permission has been granted for all other model boat types to attend also There will be camping nearby, for tents motorhomes and caravans,and there is also a pub nearby and another in the village as well as a cafe for your food or possibly accomodation if wanted. I will be advertising it on various model boat websites and magazine. I would certainly like you to come if you can manage it.Set up day is the 10th,and I am sure if you wanted to come a day or so earlier we can arrange it for you. There will be at least three Historic Lifeboats attending,hopefully more,which will include the ex Angle Watson Lifeboat. The event will be part of the Angle Regatta Week, so many other types of craft will be attending There is also a Beer and Cider Festival at the same time,and Live Music Please give me a ring on 01209 820844,or private message me to let me know your thoughts. Look forward to hearing from you Sincerely, Mick French

Getting the ballast correct by Ron Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
The Gypsy kit includes a steel plate to use in the keel for ballast. I measured the main sail from the plan which is 6.5” long the boom and 13.5 along the mast. The jib measures 5” by 8”. I confess my understanding of the laws of physics is poor. How does one calculate the amount of weight to build into a model based upon the sail area? I read from another forum that mild steel bar stock and weighs in at 81gr. After I secure the keel to the hull, my plan is to use bird-shot glued along the bottom inside of the hull as needed . The last photo is not my boat but shows how another person cur out the keel area to secure the mild steel bar for weight. I plan to do the same, unless I hear from some more experienced builders with their suggestions.

Spraying/hand painting by luckybill Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.

Sloop Gypsy -1940’s Comet Kit by Ron Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Keel with rudder assembly being designed, brass strips will be added to rudder to secure the brass rod. The interior view shows where the battery box fits. Designing the installation of other servos is on going.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?

HMS Dreadnought by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Drawings I have give her five turrets, one forward of the bridge, one each side amidships, and two aft of the superstructure, and a small structure between the two aft turrets. My photos show a large structure and the forward of the two aft turrets possibly not there at all. Highly unlikely to get an aerial photo, as there would have been very few aircraft overflying any warships during her lifetime, but maybe someone has a view from astern? My photos show he in a very dark grey, looks even darker than Home Fleet grey.

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by neilmc Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Great news it was a good show last year will be going again. Thanks for diary date Ads

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
The Midhurst model engineering show is on again at its usual time for this year. Many of us who regularly attend this event enjoy this show, meeting up with fellow boat clubs / enthusiasts and looking at all the other interesting engineering hobbies that are in attendance. The new centre complex at Midhurst is a great place to visit and provides great access for getting our exhibits in and out of the halls plus it has welcoming facilities including a small cafe and caters for those persons with disabilities. The date of the show is Sunday 11 February 2018. Many model boat clubs display along with huge model train displays, Mecano, etc. Not had confirmation yet but I beleive that the doors open at 10.30 hours for the public. Basingstoke Model Boat Club members will be out in force manning their stand. See 'The Grange' site for further details.

Remote launch and recovery by Dom of Essential RC Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
...and some rowing marines. This was a good show to see some quirky watercraft. Not easy recovering the smaller lifeboat but they did it.

Working Radar for Many Scales by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an auxiliary receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from www.mr-rcworld.co.uk and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Have moved on to the deck furniture and equipment, including the funnel. Most of it can be made from the usual assortment of scrap materials and odd and ends. Decided to start on the funnel. Planned to make up a wooden replica and wrap a thin styrene sheet around it, finally inserting styrene formers into the shell, gluing them into place. Made the replica up from scrap wood blocks and shaped it into the correct shape. The outcome looked so good was tempted to use as final as making funnels seems quite a challenge. Anyway proceeded to plan and shape thin styrene sheet around the replica, using a heat gun to overcome the memory. Once this was done, fitted shaped styrene internal formers to hold the styrene to the correct shape and glued with adhesive. After the styrene glue had dried and the excess material trimmed, now had two usable funnels - wood and styrene. The wood version is nominally smaller and fits slightly better, so decided to use it. The Teakwood was originally operated by the J I Jacobs Company, which had a buff funnel with a black cap as markings. Stumbled across a picture of the vessel when she was chartered to the British India Steam Navigation Co. Evidently BI usually painted chartered vessels in their livery. Although the picture does not show the traditional and attractive BISNCo white hull cheat line, it does show the funnel markings. These are black with two narrowly separated white bands. Rather preferred this scheme so adopted it. The picture was taken in the mid 1960s and it also shows a pristine looking ship, my worries about the model looking unsoiled seem groundless. One of the pictures shows a strip that extends back from the wheelhouse almost to the funnel - this is a support for the awnings that fit over the bridge wings.

Steam sound unit (variable speed) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch module to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate modules to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound modules I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a module from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner module is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎