Hi Nick Yes, I was very pleased with the final model and its maiden voyage. It looks particularly good with all the lights on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pTQgjg8ZuY&t=3s Just a reminder, be very precise when positioning the hull skins and don't use too much glue as the ribs will show through. Best of luck. Steve
Hi David, Great job on the Model, The Light Ship"AMBROSE" is a good memory for me! I still remember having to go up her mast and change her lights. She uses custom light bulbs rated at 150 Volts can't remember the amps though! Thanks, for sharing the Picture just showed it to the wife. She liked your model as well! Ed.👍👍👍
I found two pics of my Sea Hornet engine mount. The second pic shows the cutout of the keel and the simple home made L bracket for the engine mount. The one in the Hobbyking drive line kit I did not like, but, the engine bolting to the motor is great. No top bearing, but, I have not had a problem with it. Added tap silicon grease on installation.
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.
A layer of the lightest glass cloth applied with Ronseal water based floor varnish / sealer.Rubbed down between coats. /Use enough coats to fill the weave / grain of the cloth . . this should still show the grain through the coats and leave a brilliant shine. this can be polished with T/cut once thoroughly hard if so desired.
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.
Hi First sorry that I have not made myself known before, bad insight on me and thank you for the add. O.K I have now left work and joined the ranks of the G.O.M. I have been modeling boat's (Sub's) for some time, mainly the WW2 "T" class, some time back I got Brian of Mobile Model Marine to let me have the first Lady "T" hull as I took a liking of the mock up that he had on his stand, and from that I have now moved onto tug's from the early 1900's.👍 My other love's other than my Wife are my Ducati 900ssie, and my SLK.😎 I am also a member of the Swiss Cottage MBC, and I do hope that in time I will meet up with some of you at the show.s All the best Fred
Hi Doug, I Googled her here in the US, It showed up right away! I not sure what she was auctioned for but on another ebay seller their asking GBP 152.62! plus shipping... I can't wait to see how your's turns out!
Hello. I am trying to establish as much information as possible on the boat as show in the attached pictures. This model was found in the boot of a car some 40 years ago by a friend of mine when he bought the car.It has lain in his shed from that day to this. It clearly is Scratch built and has a Basset-Lowke motor.(which works very well after all that time lying idle) It is plank on frame construction. I have found limited information on line on her but am wondering if anyone has a wealth of knowledge on either the model or its real life version.The last picture shows a hulk of what I think is the same ship. Regards Bill.
Hi Doug Sorry but you are mistaken. Later Taycols such as the Double Special had a separate reverse winding that provided a slower speed in reverse when selected. There are two connections one for forward and one for reverse. You can use a relay or double way switch to alter the contact. A modern solution is to use a bridge rectifier as an electronic switch. I have one and have done the conversion and it works. Current is high and 25 amp capacity is recommended for the Double Special. Please have a look at http://taycol.tk/Rectifier.html There is a diagram showing the separate coils and how to connect the rectifier. A fuse is a must as you have advised and for reasons explained in the article. I do agree your solution will work but I would suggest this alternative works using the Taycol as designed and avoids any disconnection of coils. Whatever method is used the increased current will require the bridge rectifier to be mounted on a heat sink. Hope this clarifies and helps you understand these fascinating motors in all their variations Dave
Hi Tom There is a Taycol site that may help you with your Taycol motors http://taycol.tk/wiring.html There are slight differences in the different motors and your Double Special falls into this category. The diagrams are clear and you should be able to modify OK. There is a special page for the Taycols with reversing coils such as the Double Special. This uses the Bridge rectifier without any modification to the motor. For your 10 amp bridge rectifier this would be the best option as it will effectively double it to 20 amps. 25 amp are recommended. The caps you have are not of the right value you need 0.1 uf (Mfd) or 100000 pF (Mmfd). You may also see them as 100nF. Ceramic are the type you need. http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html The above is a useful chart of the different capacitor values most often quoted in electronic diagrams. Doug has certainly shown the way and if it encourages others to ressurect and modify their Taycols all to the good. Good luck with the modification Dave
Hi Doug The sparks are being controlled by the diodes as you suspected and as shown on the skope. The frequency will be a factor. I suspect you can probably hear the tone through the coils, depending on your hearing. Last I heard Lucy was still up there with the sparklers! Be interesting to see more skope pics once you have tidied up the wiring. Dave
Hi there, the web lead shows a motor that is either a car heater blower motor or a radiator fan motor, have a word with your local scrap yard, i got three from a ford mondeo for £10. Very powerful and with low power draw, Mark
PS to Taycol Target / ESC tests: Interesting side effect! The sparks have gone 😊 Sorry Dave 🤔 Presumably they are damped by the diodes. The 800Hz switching frequency, as opposed to constant DC, may also play a role. "Veeery interestink, but don't forget to tell Lucy!!". Showing my age again! Cheers Doug. 😎 BTW copying expressly desired!