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Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Griffon 2000 TD by tonymid Apprentice   Posted: 1 day ago
Check out the website at www.rc-hovercraft.com where construction details in photos show how I built the griffon 2000TD and also the military version 2000TD(M).

'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
I saw it, and spoke to Paul the builder at the Warwick show last week. Its a truly amazing model, which you never seem to run out of details to see. A real credit to an amazing builder. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Thanks, Dave, That shows how little I know of these things,.....a 12 volt NiMh is obviously the way to go, Thanks a lot. Onward and upward!!

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Thinking back over this part of the project, felt it might be of interest to others considering modifying a hull to summarize my experiences: 1) Cutting and modifying a hull to a different profile seems intimidating, but using planning then care, using a simple selection of workshop tools and adhesives, it is quite within the skill of the average modeler. 2) This is the second proprietary glass-fibre hull I have used. Both required a “spindle” of bulkheads and longitudinal stringers to hold the hull rigid and to which can also be fastened the electrical / mechanical equipment needed for the model. 3) Have tried two approaches for the spindle. The first was to totally assemble it off the hull, get it as rigid as possible, fit it into the hull and epoxy into place. The second was to fit the keel reinforcement to the hull then epoxy the bulkheads and remainder of the spindle to it. That spindle remained relatively flexible until finally installed. 4) On reflection, think it is best to fully assemble the spindle, taking care to get it true and then fit it to the hull. The relatively flexible hull can then be adjusted to fit the more rigid spindle and kept true. 5) Used the relatively flexible spindle arrangement on the Teakwood and have spent many hours getting the bulwarks and deck frames leveled and lined up satisfactorily. The more rigid spindle would have helped mitigate this by ensuring the frame was accurate before trying to adapt it to the hull. Have now finished all the modifications needed to the hull and the result shows that this type of transformation can be successfully completed..

Tsekoa 2 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Fred I am attaching some pics of a Tsekoa that used to belong to one of my club members. They were taken for the sale so show some detail. Makes a nice model

Mobile Marine Xmas Market by HoweGY177 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Mobile Marine Christmas Market invites modelers to bring and buy model boat sales as well as stall holders. Opens at 10am closes at 4pm. I will have several boats for sale, River Dance shown in my harbour and several others and a lifeboat kit of plastic. Other members of our group will be bringing another 12 models and further kits. Full address:- The Boat Shed, Highcliffe Park, Ingham Cliff, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, LN1 2YQ ...Free parking.🤓 Their advert:- CHRISTMAS CRACKER......... staged at the factory of Mobile Marine Models, this now very popular British Manufacturers Show is the one day CHRISTMAS market, giving you, the boat modeller, the opportunity to 'get' those last minute items for the festive seaons building!!!! .......from... the many various manufacturers that we are able to 'cram-into' the factory........including Dean's Marine; SHG ; Little Model ; Tony Green Steam ; ModelBoat Mayhem .... and quite a few more ........

Ellesmere Port model boat lake by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Paul, We have a temporary pond at Hooton airfield and hopefully when we get settled we are thinking about putting a show on but not in March as it would be far to cold. Hope your keeping ok? George

Ellesmere Port model boat lake by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
There isn't Paul. The E Port club used to sail in the basins at the Boat Museum but this facility has, I believe, been withdrawn as well as the March Boat Show facility. The club was sailing at (I believe) the Vauxhall site in a temporary pond and there is talk of a March show at the former Hooton airfield site. Perhaps one of the club members could post details in the Model Boat Club Section, Please?

Christmas Ads On TV by bilzin Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
One Tenor A second viewing of the ad may just show that P Bear was assisting in the distribution of prezzies which had just been stolen, and then rewarded the thief with a sarnie......sheeesh !

Totnes Castle 1894 by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.

Christmas Ads On TV by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Doug it's ad on TV showing Paddington helping Santa deliver gifts. Don't know about the stolen goods bit though. I've got a provisional ops date of 11th Dec subject to a validation

More handrails fitted by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Following a visit to the International boat show for bits and pieces I took advantage of x-factory rubbish on the TV to escape the wife, and do some more on the boat. Handrails to the rear in progress. Interesting tip I bought some 3/32 steam nipple fittings which after running a 2mm drill to the point allow my 2mm brass wire to push through. The idea being a nice finish to the bottom of the handrail and a secure mounting hole so the hand rail can be removed if needed. see picture you will get the idea the ladder one is a lager size 1/8 fitting for welding wire. Just need to add the cross pieces and solder up.

rotating radars off mast by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi smiggy I have a couple of these motors and they are good and mine run off a 1.5v battery (max3v). Planetary gears but relatively quiet at low revs (volts). Mine came from http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi and cost about £6 ea. Your link should be https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/gearmotors. Well worth a look. The stepper motors I have are 10x14mm (including the shaft) and are direct drive. I will be posting a thread soon showing more details Nice scale model Dave