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I acquired this boat part built some months ago through Dave M. I have not put too much scale in detail but I am quite pleased with the overall finish. It is powered by two brushless 1250KV out runners and in the first sea trials I used 12v lead acid batteries. (That video was posted a few weeks ago - mdlbt.com/26793). This video shows its second sea trial after I was persuaded to use lipos. The difference in performance is very pleasing. Thank you Dave M for your help and advice during the build.
hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone out there has built the dumas trojan latley, as im having probs following plans, i have down loaded some pics of the build but they are not what i need,in the plans there is a number 20 piece of ply but it does not show where it goes, this is one of the hardest kits i have built with little detail to follow, i would appreciate it if anyone has pics of building this kit, as i said i have down loaded a lot of pics but are not very usefull, regards colin😭
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
Some can do fibreglassing as easily as shelling peas. I have fibreglassed 3 models so far and have yet to master the technique. I've spent far too much time sanding the results to make them smooth. For my next project I plan to follow the guidance shown here:https://www.youtube.com/w atch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk. He talks about 'denatured alchohol' which, in the rest of the English-speaking world is referred to as methylated spirits.
Build started a month or so ago. Scratch build from USCG plans from CG museum Northwest. Basswood frame, strip construction, polystyrene super structure. Props are for show right now, but it will steam someday.
Hi Dave, Thanks for the recommendation of the Plexus MA360 Adhesive, I will look in to it! and to think of it the other day while I was in the Dollar store, I saw a small chisel didn't think much of it. Who would have thought I'd need it now. I need to look in to getting some angled plasticard! or just some plasticard sheets and make the angels myself! Thanks Mark, I'm afraid the torch idea is out of the question. The hull has a support frame that runs along the inside, so the light won't show on the outside! I think the Plasticard root is the way I'm going. I will keep you all posted...👍 Ed
Hi Ed What a bummer. I agree with Mark on how to find the leak(s). I have looked back over your blog and on page three you mentioned the plasticard hull had split and you showed a pic and the subsequent repair. I suspect this or a similar joint where the plasticard is bent may be your problem. You have mentioned resin covering but this may not have been possible. What glue did you use? Plastic can be difficult to glue. Stablitz Express was the best when I used to build the Robbe and Graupner model planes. Not cheap but works. UHU Plus Acrylit ( a direct substitute) is available in the UK, Leeds Model Centre http://www.modelshopleeds.co.u k/ have stock, use the site search to find it. Hope you find and cure. Dave
The original Vosper drawings state that the deck was finished in a special anti-slip finish called ‘Cerrux’ and according to some well-respected contributors to this site the best way to achieve this finish is to apply a coat of a textured paint on the areas required and then overspray with the desired finish colour. Others have used a Rustoleum product but that proved difficult to obtain but I found a product from Halfords that looked promising. As always I did a test piece using this to see what the results would be like and after the finish colour was applied the effect looked very consistent in texture. At model shows I had previously seen some lifeboat decks that had been ‘texture finished’ and noted that non-textured areas had been carefully masked off. This seems like a great idea and would serve to emphasise the textured effect and also to distinguish it from a very bad spray job! I applied a low tack masking tape to the deck areas and features where I wanted a smooth finish and very carefully trimmed the tape to leave a narrow border, I also masked the positions of the metal deck fittings. Everything else was masked off and the textured spray applied in two very light coats and left to dry. When the masking was removed it revealed a very neat defined border around the foot rails, cabin sides and deck fittings. The deck and cabin sides will be over-sprayed with a couple of light coats of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ that I have had custom mixed and will be, hopefully, accurate to the prototype. 😁
Hi, I'm trying to get of some plans for a 52ft barnett class lifeboat to scratch build from. I have got some sections ones from the RNLI but they have closed their shop so I'm no longer able to get the other plans in order to build the hull (the one's that show the profile of the hull from the side). Any help would be appreciated. Robby
[Score: 8/10] 45"/2800g Bertha Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 60mins Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Scratch built from Marine Modeller plans. One sail drum servo for the main and self tacking jib. A sail arm servo for the staysail and foresail. An extra servo to allow tension on the upper trisail. The bowsprit is an additional 10" on the overall length of the model. For RC sailing I have a 2.5kg detachable keel and rudder extesion ( shown in the photograph). All the deck winches are built from old clock parts. The lee boards are also functional and work in conjunction with the forward head sails and the sailarm servo. For transportation the top mast can be lowered and the bowsprit raised.
I have a large 4' Puffer purchased many years ago form Martins Models at an E Port show. Originally I tried lead but it became very heavy to carry. I modified mine by making three large sealed fibreglass containers in side the hull which were open at the base and had open portholes at the top exiting thro the hull sides. I now only need about 1lb of lead plus the 12v 12Ahr battery to ballast. Put the model in the water then add the battery and ballast, the boat sinks to the waterline. Take the battery and ballast out and the boat rises, lift with two straps and all the water drains leaving a light hull to carry. The pic shows the model in its lead ballast days.
Having been to this show in the past and enjoyed everything the show had to offer I am afraid this year was not what I was expecting at all and needless to say our 2hr trip down the motorway was soon a return trip. I believe the fact that the Museum was not open due to refurbishment didn't help and maybe a postponement of the event may have been the best option! Hopefully any future shows will get back to form once the Museum has done its work.
For the third year, the North West Ship Show will take place at Old Christ Church, Waterloo Road, Waterloo, Liverpool on 30 September 2017. Organised by Coastal Shipping magazine, there will be exhibitors and traders from across the UK with books, photos, postcards, model boats, collectables, ephemera, boat kits and artwork.
In its third year, this show has moved from Edinburgh to the west. It will be held in Greenock Town Hall, Cathcart Square, Greenock from 10.00 - 15.30. There will be exhibitors and traders from throughout the UK with: books, photos, postcards, model boats, collectables, ephemera, boat kits and artwork.