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Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
sorry but most flying crash test models use outrunners. The lack of torque of an inrunner means you have to use a very small diameter prop ( I am generalising ) so unless your going for an all out speed model use an outrunner. http://lmmac.net/i-c-to-electric-conversion-table/ As you can see an outrunner is shown as the representative motor. https://www.cmfhobbies.com/IC-Engine-to-Electric-motor-conve... Again generally out runners.

Mk2 RTTL 2771 by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Great job on the model.Pictures show it is a good runner.

BRUSHLESS ESC by CB90 Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
From my experience I would suggest 2-3x your motor current rating especially cheap ones from china, I have found that a brushless motor can rapidly draw high currents with fouling of the propeller by weed etc. I would check the current drawn with the propeller you intend to use with a watt meter in the test tank (bath) held stationary increase power and monitor the current drawn this must be well within the limits of your ESC this should show a 10-15% higher power consumption than when moving. The best bit of advice (which I often don't follow myself) is to put a fuse in line Please note some ESCs are not waterproof (avoid) or seal them with silicon sealant, go for a quality manufacturer and the highest current rating your can afford. Cheap 30A ESCs can be ok for low power motors under 10Amps my racing boat pull 60 Amps and is fused at 80Amps and has a 200Amp ESC

vintage yacht (Victoria) by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
With the care you are taking it shows you enjoy this restoration you have taken on.I enjoy following all the restorations that are going on.It saves a lot of boats from just going into the bin.Carry on,it will be a beautiful job.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Evenink Martin, Sounds like the old 'shaggy dog story' of the US sending the Russians a drill bit the diameter of a human hair, to show their engineering supremacy! The Russians supposedly sent it back with a hole drilled in it 😲😁 BTW: first result with your TX! I knocked up a simple diode RF detector, connected to Dad's vintage AVO Minor (2.5mA range) and your TX is certainly transmitting SOMETHING! Now to try and find out WHAT 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Hellen Fishing Boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi All This year I bought an unstarted kit, but, sold it to a club member. A month later one of the club member wish to swap for a faster boat and as my Sea Commander required a repaint and fittings. I thought a swap for a very good working Hellen was a good deal. So are making a dingy and replacing the broken prop with a brass one I had my second Hellen for the year. Three weeks ago another Hellen pops up on Gumtree(aka EBAY), so it was to cheap not to buy it. While waiting for it to come, I made a new stand, a dingy with oars and a set of fenders. When it arrive the mast where laying on the deck broken, but , the posted pics show that. The motor is a 11 to 1 geared MFA Como 919 D which runs OK. A spare new plastic prop. Started on the repairs, like the keel and deck around the mast bases. The aft mast was broken in half, so I brass sleeved it. The aft sail was missing and the forward sail was all glued up, so I bin it. So this is the boat pics so far. Canabus

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Evenin' Mike, Glad you found it interesting😉 The details of the motor conversion are in my Sea Scout renovation blog but the essentials are- All modern ESCs provide a DC output in the form of pulses which are rapidly switched on and off ( several thousand times a second). That's what you can see in the scope pics. The scope timebase (width of one horizontal division) is set to a little less than 1msec so you can see how fast the pulses are switched and how the pulse width (ON time) varies. The inertia of the motor keeps it going during the few milliseconds of 'Off' so the ratio of ON pulse to OFF determines the speed of the motor. The signal from the TX varies this ratio by varying the ON pulse width of the ESC output in proportion to the throttle stick position. A Bridge rectifier is simply 4 diodes arranged in a square (see pic) so that it has 4 terminals; +, - and two AC (~). When an AC signal is applied between the two ~ terminals a DC voltage of constant polarity appears at the + and - terminals. The rectifier sees the ESC output as an AC signal and produces a DC output at the + and - terminals. All I do is apply that constant DC voltage to the field coil of the motor, thus creating a constant magnetic field as if it was a permanent magnet. This means doing a small mod to the motor to separate the field coil from the brush gear and rotor (armature) coil. 3rd pic shows normal wiring of the coils in series. Meanwhile the varying pulsed voltage goes to the brush gear (and thus armature coil) driving the motor just like a normal 'can' motor. No rocket science just a neat trick 😉 The scope just shows the varying pulse train from the ESC to the motor. Zero Volts is on the horizontal centre line of the screen and shows when the voltage pulses are positive (upper part of screen) or negative (lower part of screen) and the motor reacts accordingly. The slight overshoot is probably due to the reaction time of the diodes but the motor doesn't notice that - it's too 'lazy' 😉 Here endeth today's seminar 😁 Hope it's demystified things a little. Cheers, Doug 😎

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

Surface Drive by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Andy, you could start here😉 https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/propellers_sur... Tips n tricks- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/ style='background-color:yellow;'>showthread.php?2198551-How-to-set-up-for-surface-drive It's the prop that makes the difference. Cheers, Doug 😎

mr rc world by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Hello Ron, Have found this on Ebay,😲 I think it's the same guy who runs 'modelling timbers', I seem to remember talking to him at one of the boat shows, and he said he was from the Isle of Man, hope this may help in some way.😉 Peter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-MODELS-FITTINGS-NEW/2638038047...

mr rc world by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
hi all has anyone had any problems with the above company, placed an order couple of weeks ago but goods not been delivered , i contacted them via email and through there web site but had no response. i noticed today that they have removed everything from there ebay shop but there website is still showing all there goods ? they have been very good in the past with a excellent and quick service ron

A tall ship and a wheel to steer her with by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Making a ship's wheel, specifically the turned spokes of a ship's wheel, and 20 of them all a-like, has been beyond me. So I gave up and got Model Monkey on Shapeways to scale his Constitution wheel up to 1:36 scale, and got 4 of them; 2 for Constellation, and 2 for Macedonian. The helm is made of mahogany. The curves braces laminated from some strips from an old kit; the uprights from some scrap left from a musical instrument build. The drum is some mahogany dowel, from a kit again, and a brass rod axle. Some paint and clear-coat and it's just about done. I was going to make it operate when the rudder servo moved, but a spoke handle fell off while painting, and I figure it's a bit fragile to be spinning at "non-scale" speeds, so it'll just get some line wrapped around the drum for show.

St.Albans Model Show by BillD203 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Mini Victory on tour will also be on show, it’s only one of four places you can see it this year.

Crash Tender crew by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
More or less Martin 😉 After two attempts (7 and 15 years) I gave up the institution of marriage for life. The first nearly drove me into financial ruin, the second was so jealous that after every business trip I was subjected to the Spanish Inquisition, you can only stand that so long, last heard of with her boyfriend in USA. I divorced both. Lessons learned. Since 1995 I have a great partnership with my German girlfriend Gisela, who was also married once, to a latent alcoholic. We both agree; we don't need a piece of official stamped paper (much less a church paper) to show we love each other. We've been partners now for 23 years 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS; "were" is correct. I have to admit that there was a transition period while working in Brazil that was very interesting 😉 This post expresses purely the poster's opinion based on his experience and in no way denigrates or derides the differing opinions / experiences of others who had more luck.