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>> Home > Tags > skeg

skeg
skeg
The Building Board by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

Cygnus GM32 by Bucaneer16 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
My latest project, Cygnus GM32. Going to be a fwd wheelhouse, other detail not decided yet! Any one have any build detail of running gear used successfully on other boats? I've made a Skeg and rudder and fitted a 65mm prop direct to a 700 size 5000rpm motor which draws 14amps in water. Any suggestions on esc would be welcome other than the screaming mtroniks I have now!

A return to the hobby! by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Best thing I ever did was deal with SLEC as an aeromodeller. I have a fuselage building Jig that I am using to build a new Sea Queen. The idea is to ensure no twist on a 46" hull. Just making the blocks to allow for the Skeg will post pictures soon😊😊

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 5 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
After some calculations I find I need to extend the reinforcing for the port & starboard shafts forward towards the bow. Created some wooden guides when drilling the prop-shaft holes and glued them in position temporarily, as you make expect the drill needs to be rather long, so I made one out of an old brass shaft basically sharpening it so it could cut wood. Next job will be to cut out for integrated shaft support brackets (2mm wide and minimum of 35mm long slot) and the tube shafts are 8.5mm in diameter.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 4 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Added some strength to the Bow also act as glue points for the bow strips of ply or planking. Created a template of the first section of ply to go on, thought I would mark out the rudders, prop-shaft supports and shaft exit points. Unfortunately due to cost restrictions I cannot afford to buy or have the facilities to make the correct layout of brackets and supports for the shafts, which I feel may not be up to the job when coping with the high outputs of brushless motor, (still that my excuse) So to use my poor-mans prop-shafts (with integral support skeg) I have had to reconfigure the layout slightly but will keep the original 3 prop-shafts and 3 non-scale rudders, but may shape them as per the originals.

Inspiration for beautiful boat builders ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Yes Martin I agree we are a dying breed in this Virtual Reality Throw Away Rush rush world. But also please don't forget that you are a professional model builder with decades of experience. BTW: my 1/72 HMS Hotspur was absolutely scratch built. My first ever ship model, I was about 13/14 when I started it, with extremely basic hand tools. Kits out of the question and there weren't nuffink like her around anyway. Built to plans drawn up by me on foolscap paper from measurements taken from an Airfix 1/600 kit with a plastic micrometer and scaled up with a slide rule!! Remember them!? Had just started technical drawing at school, very handy. My Type IA submarine, built 30 odd years ago, was a Krick 'kit'! Ha Ha! 4 20mm planks of wood for the hull, a big lump of steel bar for the keel, crude half shell vac-formed tower, and a bag of assorted brass rod and tubing for various fittings. Some brass sheet for the dive planes. 'Thanks for the cash the rest is up to you' sort of deal! A visit to the Deutsches Museum showed up many 'simplifications' in the Krick plan so all the corrections were 'scratch' as well. Notably- Correct hull shape, correct rudder assemblies with skegs, railings, net cutters, flooding slots, wintergarden etc etc. Looks like Gina 2 is going to be a scratch rebuild from the gunn'l up as well. Actually I just thought my post might create a little wonderment and some Oohs and Aaahs, not loose off such a debate. I'll know better next time. Now back to Pete's lighting. Ciao, Doug

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Damn good service👍 Much like Conrad, is often worth paying their price to get things very quick and free delivery 😊 Can't say it's too hot here, temp has dropped 10°C to about 18 and torrential rain all day so far 🤔 Tomorrow back up to about 28-30°C apparently 😎 Maybe I can spray my two hulls then. Just made a new keel for the cutter, the wood behaved itself where the silver steel didn't. Now about to pin and epoxy it on. Then make the rudder skeg and think about fitting the rudder stock. Now then, where did I put me camera .... All the best, Doug 😎

30mm dog propeller for 4mm shaft by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks for advise. The new shaft I bought (aluminium tube & skeg with steel shaft has an aluminium dog setup) I thought it would be best to use it, otherwise it means using a normal prop on a short thread as don't have thread cutting equipment. I looked at Cornwall MB but their sizes start at 35mm.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Obechi or Lime for the keel/keelson and skeg.

Rudder Post in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
First I had to draw lines from. One corner to the next. This was done to get the center of the block! But as I don't have a drill press. The hole I drilled is a fraction off! The tube that goes through the block. Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁 I then glued it in place. And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position. Note: Try to make sure that the rudder block and post. Are truly centered to the keel! I had the rudder and skeg in place! While the polyester resin dried over night!👍

Test fit the Rudder! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
The rudder is in place! I saw where Dumas used a cast skeg for the rudder! I think they should have kept using the cast skeg! Now they give a strip of brass. that you must bend to shape. And drill into the keel! I don't like this at all. should be ok I hope! Note: When drilling into the keel also the skeg. Be careful use a 3/16" drill! No bigger than that! The kit comes with two screws. That are used just for that!

Skeg by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Excellent work Michael👍. My second attempt a making a skeg for my boat was passable (eventually). I overdid the silver solder and spent ages filing the surplus away.....less is more, as they say. I finally mastered silver soldering with some of the later brass fittings I made, fortunately you also have a lathe and clearly a great deal more experience than me. Robbob.

Rudder, water pickup and skeg by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
An excellent tutorial, splendid stuff 👍👍👍 Several years ago I forgot the annealing stage, while making davits for my destroyer, and jammed the spring into the tube 😡 The tube didn't kink but it looked like an earthworm 🤔

Propshaft and oiler fitting by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Propshaft and oiler fitting Now for the fitting of the propshaft, fortunately I have a long series drill that will go through the keel and through the bulkhead B4 into the motor compartment; this went well and came out in the expected place. Next a trial fit of the tube in the keel and into the skeg, again this lined up perfectly and all that needed to be done was to epoxy it into place. First I nearly forgot to fit the oiler system to the prop tube, careful drilling and deburring and making sure no swarf is left in the tube. Finally wrapping a piece of plumber’s PTFE gas tape around the tube to ensure a gas tight fit (oil tight) we are ready to commit the tube to final fixing. Epoxy mixed and applied I put a couple of small wedges in the skeg to stop it moving and a wedge under the oiler to make sure it was horizontal.

Skeg by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Skeg Having seen the trouble others have found with the suggested method of production I decided to go straight for the robust version. I did a number of measurements to determine the size and shape of the arm and went for 2mm brass sheet. The tube was machined from 12mm dia brass with tapered ends to 8.5mm and an 8mm bore to suit the tube. Next I machined a 2mm slot the length of the tube to locate the brass arm in. Keeping the pieces spotlessly clean (not forgetting to clean the solder rod as well) the items were fluxed and wired together to keep then in a true vertical position whilst they are silvered soldered. A keen eye on temperature and a light touch and clean flow with the solder is recommended to keep final dressing to a minimum.