Just pondering how one would set up and sincrconize a simulated steam whistle. Since I’m not running on steam I could use smoke from my smoke unit and of course a steam sound module. Any ideas as how To do this? My thought was using the RAM ship whistle which works with a micro switch. One servo would control both the whistle and at the same time release squeezing off neoprene tubing would allow smoke to issue out the whistle. Anyone thoughts on this would be appreciated.
When I had another try at the big hatch it came right off easily. I think it was a bit stuck on the gasket. The push-to-release latch is really something; a 50/50 blend of wow & ridiculous. It’s an impressive mechanism but it’s also seriously over-designed. The battery hatch under the pilot house has a simple quarter-turn catch to hold it shut while the aft hatch has a fancy spring-loaded push button release assembly. Doesn’t make much sense, really. My boat has a piece of foam in the bilge, too, but I’m reluctant to remove it. Although it’s no use for flotation my theory is that it may serve two purposes. First, it might be there for sound dampening. Those two big motors & their reduction gears make a lot of noise in that large void surrounded by stiff plastic. Second, any seepage through the stuffing boxes would be absorbed by the foam & keep bilge water away from the motors. Those are my thoughts but I could be way off. The Richardson does indeed have different electronics compared to some of the other Hobby Engine tugs. It’s got working interior & exterior lighting, horn & smoke units, plus it has a 2.4ghz transmitter & receiver, which is a nice feature in that it does away with a mast-style antenna. That’s the main reason I chose my boat; I don’t know enough about R/C models to be able to say if 2.4ghz actually performs any better than 27mhz. Anyway, thanks again for the excellent advice. I learned more about my boat without breaking it. Outstanding!
Starting to build the said boat, loyal Moderator any help will be appreciated. I have built boat before , but looking for any tips on this Loyal Moderator. I hope to add lights and smoke unit , plus sound unit. Thanking you in anticipation, Ken.
[Score: 10/10] 31" SATURN Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 45mins Geared to a Mfa (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronik ESC - Comments: Fold down funnel, hunter smoke unit , lights
[Score: 5/10] Twin Propellors (4 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: I think that this is a Assurance class Tug of world war two vintage, It has tank steering, sound unit and a water vapor smoke unit, H.M.S ATTENTIF W68 French Naval Tug. Allocated SNO Portland for towing Bombardons. Built 1938 Forges et Chantiers de la Gironde, Bordeaux. L114.75’. B27.75’. 672grt. 1000ihp 3cylTE steam engine. Armament 1x20mm AA, 2xMG. 1938 Delivered to French Navy. 19-6-1940 Arrived Plymouth. 3-7-1940 Seized and Req by RN. 9-1940 Based Devonport. 0-1940 Based at Aberdeen. 1-1941 Based at Milford Haven. 2-1941 – 1942 Based Aberdeen . 1942 – 1944 Based at Harwich. 5-1944 - 1945 Based Portsmouth. 6-1944 Towed 30ton crane 1206 Cardiff to Plymouth. 5-6-1945 Released from Overlord tug pool. 7-8-1945 Returned to French Navy, pennant A671. 1946-7 Renamed Locmine. 6-3-1964 Laid up at Brest. The Bombardons were large 200 ft (61 m) by 25 ft (7.6 m) cross-shaped floating breakwaters fabricated in steel that were anchored outside the main breakwaters that consisted of Gooseberries (scuttled ships) and Phoenixes (concrete caissons). 24 bombardon units, attached to one another with hemp ropes, would create a 1 mi (1.6 km) breakwater. During the storms at the end 1944 some Bombardons broke up and sank while others parted their anchors and drifted down onto the harbours, possibly causing more damage
Received my smoke generator in today's post. Haven't had the opportunity to test it yet! Also need 5/8" brass tubing. To run up the stack! I had ordered some 5/8" plastic tubing. But I don't like it. It's all curved up don't like at all! Note: I used 1/4" piece of wood dowel. To hold the clear hose that's used for the smoker! It worked really nice! and has practically no weight what so ever!
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!
I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?
For sale is my Clyde puffer 1/24 scale approx , 33"long and a beam of 9", f/g hull, it is similar to the Mountfleet Highlander fitted with motor and ESC also a simple smoke😁 unit , needs a little tidying up , cash on collection only, *****now sold ***