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>> Home > Tags > smoke

smoke unit
Clare by Boatboi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 56" Clare Twin Propellors (4 Blade 60mm) Direct Drive to a Torpedo x2 (4 Blade) - Comments: Scratch built planking on frame steam tug free lance no plans has smoke and sound work in progress

SS Helen Louise by dufmiester Apprentice   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 54"/16100g SS Helen Louise Single Propellor (4 Blade 85mm) Direct Drive to a 19 mm Bore/Stroke x2 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 14Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 11 Channel r/c ESC - Comments: She is about 80% complete. Expect launch May 2018 . Has automatic water feed make-up , Telemetry engine speed , steam temp , aux battery monitoring. Smoke generator added to steam pipe, sound module, single stick direction and throttle. Will be equipped with FPV front and rear. Kort Nozzle (fixed) and Becker Rudder

Seuthe Smoke Generator by Ballast Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for your time and input Dave ! I'm on the case !!! Alan.👍

Seuthe Smoke Generator by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.

Seuthe Smoke Generator by Ballast Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
It's the rookie again !!! Can anyone please run through how to fit a Seuthe Smoke Generator please ? I want it to have it's own switch. I am going to be running my Puffer with an electric motor through a speed controller off of a 6V lead battery. Does it have to have it's own separate battery or can I run it off the system ? Help will be appreciated !!!😱

Steam sound unit (variable speed) by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Eric, This may be too expensive for your taste but it has proportional output for custom sounds and smoke... And lots of other functions 👍 Cheers Wayne

Sea Queen Gasoline by modelboatdevil Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
The Sea Queen was built from an Aerokit Kit and ran for awhile with brushless SSS5694 motor on 4S and it was too fast, so decided to do something about it. Since I have given up running Nitro for more than two decades so I have put a Zenoah 20cc ETI on the boat. On test run it ran okay with enough power, the best thing is that it has smoke and sound to make it more fun.

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
After reading your post Jarvo I went out to the workshop to check if the motor would run, it had got so hot it had melted the solder on the live feed connection so in a way saving it from going right up in smoke, an inline fuse may be a thing in the future, the motor is completely burnt out however the power box is OK. Thank you for the information about the larger motor, I am not sure which is the larger out of the two, I have posted some photos of them both as I am not up to speed with the rating numbers of the motors,maybe you could answer that question. However following up from Scout13 reply, although the cover over the prop shaft connection was in no way restricting air flow, ( I will drill some air flow holes in the cover to be 100% positive on that statement. The motor fixing bracket and the RE540/1 motor recommended for the Sea Commander and sold to me by the model shop, (I was given the other motor by a club member as I was informed it was the better out of the two) looks like the problem, if you look at the photo's you can see that the air flow holes are completely blanked out by the bracket, something I missed when fitting it.

Motor problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Richard I suspect the prop fitted is too big for the motor. If the pond had lots of weed this will also have placed a heavy load on the motor. Ideally the prop should be a lesser diameter than the motor and preferably not too coarse a pitch. A 550 motor that you intend to fit should be fine. Do a quick run round the pond and bring into the bank to check the motor. If you can't touch without going ouch! its overloaded and you need a smaller prop. Mention has already been made about the batteries. The motor is rated at 7.2 volts so one battery is the correct voltage. If you connect two batteries in series I suspect you will see some more smoke. To help the model to come onto the plane it will help if the bulk of the ballast and weight is towards the rear. Hope this helps

Paint Continued by GARTH Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Added the windscreen & railings on back deck . I want to have tinted windows & a U-Tube video was looked at. So I have to get some Smoke paint from the hobby store tomorrow .

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by modelboatdevil Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
I have had a TFL SSS5694 1000Kv motor for 6S in the Sea Queen boat, the speed was great, but now I changed the power to a Zenoah 20cc engine, similar speed but with sound and smoke now.

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Neil, yes get a couple of singles or one dual board as you wish, same price, fiver a chunk. They make wiring up the motors a doddle. Also think about a few of the switch boards. See link above. Single switches you can use on the 3 on/off toggle switch channels on the Tx; A, B and D. A dual switch version you can use on the two way switch C on the Tx. Make sure they can switch enough current for the load you want to use; esp. the smoker! Don't know what current yours takes, you may have to suck it and see with a multi-meter. Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget to tell 'em to send my commission! 😉😉

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
NP, the motors have "light" wiring because thats all they need, low current draw, the esc/mixer is designed for use with large motors as well, so heavy wires heavy current draw. Doug, aka, RN, is right, check all you have done, both in stages and just before you switch on for the first time. I fried an ESC yesterday by simply screwing the supply leads in the wrong way round. POP, few wisps of magic smoke and £50 down the drain. Check and re-check helps to stop the disappointment. Mark