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>> Home > Tags > smoke

smoke
smoke unit
smoke
Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Neil, yes get a couple of singles or one dual board as you wish, same price, fiver a chunk. They make wiring up the motors a doddle. Also think about a few of the switch boards. See link above. Single switches you can use on the 3 on/off toggle switch channels on the Tx; A, B and D. A dual switch version you can use on the two way switch C on the Tx. Make sure they can switch enough current for the load you want to use; esp. the smoker! Don't know what current yours takes, you may have to suck it and see with a multi-meter. Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget to tell 'em to send my commission! 😉😉

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.h... I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
NP, the motors have "light" wiring because thats all they need, low current draw, the esc/mixer is designed for use with large motors as well, so heavy wires heavy current draw. Doug, aka, RN, is right, check all you have done, both in stages and just before you switch on for the first time. I fried an ESC yesterday by simply screwing the supply leads in the wrong way round. POP, few wisps of magic smoke and £50 down the drain. Check and re-check helps to stop the disappointment. Mark

Denatured Alcohol by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
if you want a convincing bang and a cloud of smoke have a look at magician's flash powder. A glow plug will ignite it ! http://www.tvandfilmsupplies.co.uk/ecommerce/search/pyro/pow...

Layout and Limitations by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Understood you two (maybe three!) but you should remember that I am an only child, spoilt brat, therefore waiting is never the first or second option..................... I can live with not having smoke (sad) but I must have something else so probably radar rotating! I can understand not charging Lipo's in situ, but thought NiMh were so much safer? If not, that could be a way of reducing weight as has been suggested. Good news is that exciters have arrived ( incredible service) and they actually measure 2" or 50mm. Now there is progress. There is one space one rib back from the front of the motors that would not require surgery. Maybe not good from noise pick up but could be worth a try. TTFN NPJ

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I've mislead you , the speed controller I bought was a 50A controller - Marine New lipo safe version. It said motor current, so I guessed 10 amps. Being an electrical engineer I added a good factor of safety it works well. No expensive smoke.

Fittings and finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
PS: You may be risking overloading the Viper Marine 10 with the Torpedo 850!😲 See attached spec. Note: "It has a 10Amp motor limit ..." I think you would be better off with the Marine 15 considering the T850 max continuous at 13 A. I only use my Viper 10s for small (almost Plastic Magic) boats and motors. Just a thought, it's up to you but don't be surprised if it smokes at full throttle 😡 Cheers Doug 😎

Removing The Deck by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Neil, I heartily second all of what Dave has written ESPECIALLY NOT CHARGING IN THE HULL! 😡 I also considered fitting the battery across the hull but came to the conclusions that it was too high and impossible to remove for charging, so I settled for between the shafts as Jarvo did. I have also dumped the smoke idea, my older version Southampton does not have this. Instead I will concentrate more on sound, lighting and possibly a working winch. As Dave says slow down! Get the basics working and the ship sailing first. THEN you will know how much freeboard, and space(!) you have left for the special effects. Cheers Doug 😎

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Not much room. I suggest you investigate light weight battery possibilities, but whatever you choose on no account consider charging in the hull, ever! The motors are probably lowish current but the smoker will be a big drain on the battery, do you really want this feature? Modern tugs in our environmentally friendly times do not normally emit smoke. The electronics are where you have identified. When you receive the exciters I suspect there is only one spot where the gap between supports is wide enough. For this to work the whole hull acts as the resonator and I am not sure what effect all those supports may have. When I was testing I just placed the exciters against the inside of my hull and tried different positions. You could try using the outside of your hull to see how it sounds. As regards depth you have not shown the marked waterline.... if you are referring to yourself I detect a willingness to 'boldly go'' so no. Perhaps best to hold back from Warp speed for now though!

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Removing the Deck............ Should have said before, note when removing these screws they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes and putting them in a lidded container. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks, it requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pic 8. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 11.(not got the hang of this yet!) What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pics 9/10. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Mark, took me yonks to find them all🤔 I also experimented with battery athwartships, hope for better 'roll control' but eventually settled for between the shafts cos athwartships was too high. My 'pico' RX (ca. 5x1.5cm😉) can go almost anywhere, with Velcro to hold it in place. The dual ESC can go where the old 800mAh NiMH was. Later stage: smoke genny and lighting board in the lower superstructure, as apparently also in the latest versions! Mini SMD or strip LEDs for illumination and nav lights, mini 3V geared motor for the radar perhaps. Don't need a radio channel for this, just a switch and a couple of AA alkaline batts and away you go😉 Although these days you almost never see the antenna cos it's hidden in a 'burger-bun' radome a la Furuno! 😉 Somewhere on the WWW spider web I remember seeing a working towing tackle - must dig out the bookmark, might have been Krick! Cheers Doug 😎 Glad you're enjoying it Neil, that's the whole point ain't it? 👍