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>> Home > Tags > smoke

smoke unit
Sea Queen Gasoline by modelboatdevil Seaman   Posted: 28 days ago
The Sea Queen was built from an Aerokit Kit and ran for awhile with brushless SSS5694 motor on 4S and it was too fast, so decided to do something about it. Since I have given up running Nitro for more than two decades so I have put a Zenoah 20cc ETI on the boat. On test run it ran okay with enough power, the best thing is that it has smoke and sound to make it more fun.

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
After reading your post Jarvo I went out to the workshop to check if the motor would run, it had got so hot it had melted the solder on the live feed connection so in a way saving it from going right up in smoke, an inline fuse may be a thing in the future, the motor is completely burnt out however the power box is OK. Thank you for the information about the larger motor, I am not sure which is the larger out of the two, I have posted some photos of them both as I am not up to speed with the rating numbers of the motors,maybe you could answer that question. However following up from Scout13 reply, although the cover over the prop shaft connection was in no way restricting air flow, ( I will drill some air flow holes in the cover to be 100% positive on that statement. The motor fixing bracket and the RE540/1 motor recommended for the Sea Commander and sold to me by the model shop, (I was given the other motor by a club member as I was informed it was the better out of the two) looks like the problem, if you look at the photo's you can see that the air flow holes are completely blanked out by the bracket, something I missed when fitting it.

Motor problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard I suspect the prop fitted is too big for the motor. If the pond had lots of weed this will also have placed a heavy load on the motor. Ideally the prop should be a lesser diameter than the motor and preferably not too coarse a pitch. A 550 motor that you intend to fit should be fine. Do a quick run round the pond and bring into the bank to check the motor. If you can't touch without going ouch! its overloaded and you need a smaller prop. Mention has already been made about the batteries. The motor is rated at 7.2 volts so one battery is the correct voltage. If you connect two batteries in series I suspect you will see some more smoke. To help the model to come onto the plane it will help if the bulk of the ballast and weight is towards the rear. Hope this helps

Paint Continued by GARTH Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Added the windscreen & railings on back deck . I want to have tinted windows & a U-Tube video was looked at. So I have to get some Smoke paint from the hobby store tomorrow .

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by modelboatdevil Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I have had a TFL SSS5694 1000Kv motor for 6S in the Sea Queen boat, the speed was great, but now I changed the power to a Zenoah 20cc engine, similar speed but with sound and smoke now.

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, yes get a couple of singles or one dual board as you wish, same price, fiver a chunk. They make wiring up the motors a doddle. Also think about a few of the switch boards. See link above. Single switches you can use on the 3 on/off toggle switch channels on the Tx; A, B and D. A dual switch version you can use on the two way switch C on the Tx. Make sure they can switch enough current for the load you want to use; esp. the smoker! Don't know what current yours takes, you may have to suck it and see with a multi-meter. Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget to tell 'em to send my commission! 😉😉

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
NP, the motors have "light" wiring because thats all they need, low current draw, the esc/mixer is designed for use with large motors as well, so heavy wires heavy current draw. Doug, aka, RN, is right, check all you have done, both in stages and just before you switch on for the first time. I fried an ESC yesterday by simply screwing the supply leads in the wrong way round. POP, few wisps of magic smoke and £50 down the drain. Check and re-check helps to stop the disappointment. Mark

Denatured Alcohol by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
if you want a convincing bang and a cloud of smoke have a look at magician's flash powder. A glow plug will ignite it !

Layout and Limitations by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Removing The Deck by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Understood you two (maybe three!) but you should remember that I am an only child, spoilt brat, therefore waiting is never the first or second option..................... I can live with not having smoke (sad) but I must have something else so probably radar rotating! I can understand not charging Lipo's in situ, but thought NiMh were so much safer? If not, that could be a way of reducing weight as has been suggested. Good news is that exciters have arrived ( incredible service) and they actually measure 2" or 50mm. Now there is progress. There is one space one rib back from the front of the motors that would not require surgery. Maybe not good from noise pick up but could be worth a try. TTFN NPJ

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I've mislead you , the speed controller I bought was a 50A controller - Marine New lipo safe version. It said motor current, so I guessed 10 amps. Being an electrical engineer I added a good factor of safety it works well. No expensive smoke.

Fittings and finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
PS: You may be risking overloading the Viper Marine 10 with the Torpedo 850!😲 See attached spec. Note: "It has a 10Amp motor limit ..." I think you would be better off with the Marine 15 considering the T850 max continuous at 13 A. I only use my Viper 10s for small (almost Plastic Magic) boats and motors. Just a thought, it's up to you but don't be surprised if it smokes at full throttle 😡 Cheers Doug 😎