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Evenin' Colin, Understand. But; Not sooooo expensive when you consider that you are effectively getting 2 ESCs in one compact board, plus the rudder mixer. With the Mtronics gizmo you still need the separate ESCs, which also makes the wiring messier!🤔 Taycol and converter board are packed up and will be on it's way to you per DHL this week. Ought to be with you before April!!😉 Look forward to the pics of the Commander renovation. The paddler looks neat as well👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS there are also outputs for controlling Smokers or Sound Modules on the AC board.
Hello, Finally put some finishing touches on my Rescue Vessel BUILD. Added rubber bumpers to assist in rescuing at bow and stern. Removed the smoker unit as these was complicating the build and was against one of my original objectives....Keep it Simple! Overal all I am pleased with is build, it was fun, quick and built mostly with scraps and parts on hand. The Springer Tug design is a great starter design and can be easily modified to personal tastes. I recommend this to those out there to get some initial or just more experience at building. It's fun! Joe
Hi Michael, As requested here is a picture. Showing the smoker! Which is forward of the motor! As you can see there is a piece of wood. Which runs straight up. This I use to keep the smoke stack supported! It's just a piece of rubber hose. So, I had to put a piece of 1/4"x 1/8" dowel. To support the hose else it would flop down! All my switches are on her port side! And for now the smoker switch. Will be out of place. Until I get some thinner gauge wire! To do a better wire run. And make it look neater! Cheers, Ed
Sorry about that Michael, I wasn't ignoring you! I was away from the computer! I will take pictures tomorrow and details I'm not happy with the setup. The smoker came with 2" pigtails! Not enough wire so had to solder. Heavy gauge wire to the pigtails! This is all I had at the time! It came out sloppy! I will have to redo. Once I get thinner gauge wire! But, after all was soldered it all worked! And NO magic smoke! Except for the smoker...….. Brand new replacement motor. Worked a charm!
Captain's Log: Tug Brooklyn is now a 6 volt Model! There’s actually no difference except for the voltage drop. I have tested the new 6 volt motor and her new 6 volt smoker. All is a go! Patiently waiting for Spring!😎
Captain's Log: I have decided to use 6 volts. For the main motor and smoker! I have ordered the main motor. And have received it. Waiting to order the smoker I have removed the main motor and smoker. Both of which are 12 volts! I have put them to the side. As I already have a buyer. For both the main motor and smoker! I'll be ordering the smoker this coming Friday. I should then receive it by Monday afternoon!
Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the water line! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!👍
Today I did a full test of current smoker build, it went very well, nice consistent smoke, very visible. I used just straight a mineral Oil, type sold in Pharmacies. I chose not to use the baby oil again because it had too much of an odor. See video attached. I ran it for one hour, it stays consistent and there was no build up of heat, tin stayed cool. Check of the heating element and wick showed no damage, no build up of any kind, very clean. When I get a chance, I will put a multimeter on it and test the draw so I can fuse it properly. Thanks for you interest. Joe
This is a 1:100 scratch build of an (unnamed) Fort/Park class freighter, based on Jim Pottinger's drawings of a North Sands design. I'm building this as a DEMS ship. It has smoke and an overboard water discharge (if it works!). These ships were built in many Canadian shipyards during WW2. Some went to British Admiralty - with Fort XXX names - and some went to Canadian government - named for Can. parks. I haven't yet decided on the name for this model.
Michael, Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it. 1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. It would be good to eliminate all flammable materials! 2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this. I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build. From my video you can see how the smoke shoots out. I wanted to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan voltage, but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still. 3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies... More on the puffing aspect to come... Joe
Joe I admire your persistence with this and it seems to have paid off. Each of your attempts has improved well done. I have a question - 1 - Is there a chance that the rubber stopper being so close to the heating element could be damaged or melt the rubber? Have you considered a metal screw top, you can sometimes get a metal can with a screw cap, glue tins come to mind you could cut the end off and use the screw cap and just solder the end up. 2 - have you considered adjustable fan speed /element voltage to vary the amount of smoke according to engine speed. 3 - finally what about a smaller version, can you get smaller fans? just a thought, keep up the good work Michael
The horizontal tin can design worked well, so I decided to do another and describe the build. First photo shows the original smoker, it uses a vertical mount squirrel cage type CPU fan. The majority of CPU fans are horizontal so I will build a new smoker with the more common horizontal fan. See sketches attached which are a cut section thru the tin can to show the interior. This explains my design with a stopper that holds the wires and wick. Shows the heating element so that it is above the fluid level. The stopper design makes it easy to remove and allow for any maintenance necessary. Fill fluid can be through the stack tube or through the stopper opening. I have been using the stack tube on my first smoker so as to disturb the wick and element wiring less. Please review the drawing and let me know what questions you have. Next I will take photos as I punch opening in the cans and solder the brass tubes. Cheers Joe
BTW: I grew up with valves (or bottles as we Brits also call 'em) as well. I still have a box of several vintage 'bottles' in the cellar, many of them new still in the original boxes. If you ever run out of triodes, pentodes or tetrodes give me a buzz! Think I still have some pristine EL80s - collectors items these days - lots of Oomph 😁 My next non-model boat electronic project is a pair of digital clocks in 'Art Deco' cases, using bottle decade counters. The forerunners of the fluorescent tubes and then the LED clocks, but much more fun😉. About forty years ago I spent a year or so servicing and calibrating the radiation monitors around UK nuke power plants using these decade counters. One cosmic radiation click = one jump in the base counter and so on. Never ever saw anything above the basic cosmic radiation background count which is always there. A remnant of the 'Big Bang'. 😲 Funny where an interest in electronics and radio can getcha 😁 Look forward to your chimney experiment report👍 My destroyer has two funnels but I found that the little railway smokers were not man enough to feed two funnels via a branched tube. But two working in parallel off the one RC channel did the trick. Regarding the chimney effect; Works well at rest or at low speeds, but I also found that instead of a fan some traditional air vent scoops mounted forward of the smoker augmented the effect well at higher speeds. And my long thin destroyer with 2 x 540s on 12V made a lot of 'speed boats' look silly 😁 Have fun, ciao, Doug 😎
Hi Joe 👍 In the full size ships I worked on we used Co2 injectors to smother fires in our equipment racks! Guess you could try the Co2 capsules for soda siphons. I have a box of those I 'm considering using for torpedo power! Carry on innovating Man👍 Cheers, Doug 😎