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>> Home > Tags > soldering

soldering
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Tin Can Madness by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello, Could not resist starting an experiment with an all metal container. This is a small tomato sauce tin can out of the pantry. First time I tried soldering tin to brass and it is very easy, with flux, to do. Will run test on both smokers and publish photos. As noted, it is a good idea to add a fuse between the batteries and the powers switch as these heaters tend to draw 2 amps or more, be careful with wire gauge as well. Danger of fire.... Joe

U49 mclaren clockwork submarines. by mactin Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
The soldered edge along the keel is originally the outer edge of the elipse,after rolling out the dents whilst its still a bowl,I place it upside down on a flat surface and mark all the high spots and gradually trim down untill it sits perfectly flat. Then carefully cut the thing in half,this flat outer edge becomes the keel and the cut edge becomes the gunwale.The keel edge is simply bent using flat pliers to give two flat mating surfaces,after soldering any overlaps are filed away. It sounds complicated but its quite easy to do hope this gives you an idea.Cheers Neil.

Cabin detail part 4 Steering wheel by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
The steering wheel is a simple 3-spoke design; first, I machined a ring and a centre boss in brass. I then made a wooden jig to hold the parts in the correct position whilst soldering, this consisted of a turned block with a recess to locate the O/D, and the taper towards the centre hole to give a “dish effect” that locates the centre boss. This just leaves the three arms to machine; these are cut using a slitting saw to cut a 3mm wide strip from a piece of 1.5 mm brass plate. These are the cut to length ready for soft soldering and then the parts are all cleaned and placed in the jig, ideally a minimum of solder is used to minimise cleaning afterwards. The finishing/fettling I find is always easier if you use a sharp craft knife to slice any excess solder away as it doesn’t easily mark the brass in the same way you might using Swiss files, finally finish with 600 and 1000 w&d before priming ready for topcoat of black gloss. The first wheel I decided was too small so the pics are of that construction; the final larger wheel is in the last 3 pictures

Anteno 2 tug by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
mturpin, Thanks for the idea with the cooker hood or vent hood as we say in the states. Great idea and I too could use a better system to solder under, nice to combine both paint both and soldering in one as I have just a tiny shop, Joe

Anteno 2 tug by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dick, To 2nd plank or not to plank - your choice but regarding the improvised spray-booth - Your storage container, neat idea, may prevent you from colouring the immediate surroundings, but it won't stop the vapours, explosive fumes and overspray dust from rebounding back into the room. 😡 Ask me how I know 🤔 To prevent that your storage container needs an extractor fan coupled to a vent pipe leading to the great outside world! DIY nuts can construct such using the guts of an old vacuum cleaner. I was about to try that when I stumbled across a booth with extractor and vent pipe at a reasonable price on the German Conrad site. https://www.conrad.de/ Have used it to good effect on my Sea Scout restoration. 😊 In the attached pic one can see it behind the freshly sprayed hull of my Sea Scout. To the left is an additional filter/fan to absorb any overspray that flies out of the little booth. I also use that when soldering with my ancient lead based multi-core solder. Happy modelling - but stay safe Guys 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

MK5 14" Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship by mactin Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Ahoy Mateys, Definitely not a submarine, been raiding my recycling bin again with this one. Its an idea I had to mimic a riveted hull the tin plates are dotted with a hand awl prior to soldering I think its sort of worked??? Cheers Neil mclaren clockwork submarines.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) It's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made In China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. It's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". In saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Doug, all this electrickery baffles me but I have managed to pass the first hurdle, soldering the EC5 cannectors to the power leads! I'll post as things progress. Selwyn

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Here's a pic of the set-up, with the ESC central. Rx is in a little styrene box I made for it. Shows the motor too on its mount. Martin And yes I got the heat shrink on the battery leads the wrong way round, but had so much trouble soldering the bloody wires to that stupid t shaped plug I couldn't be arsed to change em over!

Aldi excellent service by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I fixed the broken one easily. A wire broke where it entered the little pcb.Lifted the board to unsolder the stub of wire left in place and poked it out with a cocktail stick. The wire still had enough exposed wire to pop through the hole and a quick dab with the soldering iron and it wa fixed. Getting the case closed properly was a pig but fixed now. Replacement arrived today too. Woo Hoo.👍🤓 P.S. what does this represent😤?

Rudders and Propellers by teejay Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Styrene Allergy? by Nerys Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I started this post hoping to get advice on allergic reaction to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys

Styrene Allergy? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Certainly not melting and I'm pretty sure it was soft solder only as I know he had no knowledge of silver soldering. I use silver solder (hard soldering) all the time and have done for over 50 years, most of it with cadmium rich (still, I get it from ebay) and I have had no unpleasant reactions. OK, currently I have the shed door open as it's a very small shed, but I never used to in a 7x5. Before that the space was always bigger. Cadmium free modern silver solder is crap as it will not flow as well as Cadmium containing. Martin

Styrene Allergy? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
.... and make sure the working area is well ventilated, an extractor fan helps enormously, as also with spray painting or soldering (esp with the old lead based solders). It's the solvents drying your skin out, removes all the skin oils. Can make your eyes sting as well. 😭 Cheers, Doug

solar by lesliebreame Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Members might like to view my experimental solar powered "BOAT " More like an aircraft carrier !! No batteries carried even for the radio. Brushless motor running from 24 cells giving 12volts. Slightest shadow will stop it.The panel i made myself by buying individual solar cells from Ebay and soldering them up.The cells are sandwiched between glass which makes it quite heavy and next project will have no glass but the cells are VERY fragile.