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>> Home > Tags > sound effect

sound effect
roundel
saunders roe
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sound module
sound effect
Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). It's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) If you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by kevinsharpe Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Jon. I wouldn't be surprised if it would make £300. I have looked around for about six years and never seen such an origional and unmade FPB kit. I have put a sound system in mine supplied by action electronics. The sound is of a turbo cat diesel and is very effective. Regards Kevin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Mornin' Martin, You don't need to cycle LiPos !!! Play 'silly buggers' with it and you might bugger it! 😡 Just use it normally and charge it when the red lamp appears on the TX front indicating low voltage. Keep an eye on it and unplug the USB charger lead as soon as the LED turns to green. You could also use your Capacity Tester to check the LiPo status, IF it will connect to it. Sounds like it has a very non-standard plug? Pic? The cycling is for NiMH batts to minimise the memory effect. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Just checked the manual and saw the battery connector! You can forget connecting the battery to any other charger or the Tester 🤔

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

WSP 9 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
A very tidy build, I am building a styrene model 60cm long for fun racing as it is a police boat what about a siren / sound effects too!

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Steve, Chris, No Chris yours wasn't the thread I was thinking of but this https://model-boats.com/search/Hobby-Engine-Richardson-Upgra... Same model just a different name. The transducer idea was sparked off I think by a video of 'Noisy Thing' in an RAF launch - by PMDEVLIN I think. If we'd seen your thread we might have said that fitting the transducer horizontally under the deck is not the best idea. That also directs the sound upwards and the deck is too stiff, due to coamings and superstructure etc, to resonate with the transducer. Recommendation is to fit to the hull on either side, wired in series so that two 4Ohm transducers give the 8Ohm load impedance needed by most amps. The idea is to bring the hull sides to vibrate thus acting as a 'speaker cone' and project the sound sideways across the water and not straight up. They should be fitted to the largest flattish area available for maximum effect. I like the 'sound-palettes' idea 👍 Let us know how it goes, Doug 😎

Removing The Deck by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Neil, I heartily second all of what Dave has written ESPECIALLY NOT CHARGING IN THE HULL! 😡 I also considered fitting the battery across the hull but came to the conclusions that it was too high and impossible to remove for charging, so I settled for between the shafts as Jarvo did. I have also dumped the smoke idea, my older version Southampton does not have this. Instead I will concentrate more on sound, lighting and possibly a working winch. As Dave says slow down! Get the basics working and the ship sailing first. THEN you will know how much freeboard, and space(!) you have left for the special effects. Cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by octman Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

Secure the hatches and raise the flags ! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Paul. I will certainly video the maiden voyage, I'm just waiting for the lake conditions to improve. Thanks for the good advice as always. BTW. I like your 'noisy fireboat', sounds really good, those transducers are very effective 👍 Best. Rob.

Dr. Louise by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
[Score: 10/10] 45" Dr. Louise Capable of 5mph Twin Propellors Direct Drive to a Falcon Powered by Lead Acid (12v) Batteries Controlled Through Graupner ESC - Comments: Was originally a kit but highly modified. Operating features include two operating radars, lights (mast head battle lights searchlights, running lights. Forward gun rotates and fires live black powder, barrel is spring mounted and recoiled. Sound effects, horns and battle station alarm. Exocet missile launcher fire bottle rockets.

Schnellboot & Fairmile D by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Both boats are 1/24 scale The E boat belongs to a good friend. It has just had a new camouflage pattern added. The Fairmile D is scratch-built, it took nearly 4 years to build, launched in 2011. The sound effects were added for fun. The location is Albert Park lake in Melbourne, Australia

Engine Sound Effects by alan bond Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
Whoops - my e-mail address is on my website and I will PM it to you !

Engine Sound Effects by alan bond Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
Cormorant - Just spotted this thread - haven't received an e-mail yet - if you went via Technobots, maybe they haven't yet forwarded it to me - otherwise (Email Removed - PM Only) gets me direct. Check out my website www.forge-electronics.co.uk - if you have a gas turbine sound file to send me I can pop it into one of my FE101 units and post a video of the result. The sound is embedded in the program memory of the chip so cannot be altered by the user. I have one or two of these prototypes left for £25. You'd need to supply an amplifier for this version (unlike the FE100 - but no more of those left!) I've done further work on using sounds stored on a microSD card so users can customise units themselves - however this is still work in progress and I've been busy this last year with gizmos for model aircraft, so it's on the back burner. For lots of discrete sound EFFECTS see my 16 channel sound effect unit which has a built in 3W amplifier

Engine Sound Effects by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
audacity is a cross platform sound editor so I should think there is a version for mac computers. Bluetooth speakers are cheap enough and come with amps built in sounds can be recorded and used as a playlist on a smart phone you can get a Bluetooth extender to increase range this is all off the shelf tech and you probably have a smartphone already

Engine Sound Effects by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
for info, I wanted a very specific sound unit for my Jaws boat Orca. Rather than just playing engine sounds etc, I wanted to be able to select specific tracks, music, dialogue etc from the film. I got all I needed from the internet, and saved on an sd card. Using a free download to convert music files, (google "lame for audacity")I then found an engine noise that I was able to have on a continuous loop behind the dialogue etc. I then got a soundcard from technobots, and Alan devised a trigger unit, meaning I can select the tracks from a vacant channel on my transmitter sticks. eg, if I want the Jaws theme music, I have to move the stick 3 times up, if I want some dialogue from one of the characters, its 4 moves down, and so on, with something like 8 each direction, so 16 choices in all I am not tech savvy, and I found it pretty easy to do. The system is now several years old, so things have moved on, Alan will no doubt be able to help Paul