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>> Home > Tags > spectrum

spectrum
spectrum
Rx-tx confusion by jacko Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
did a quick on e-bay for spectrum dx6i receiver and prices start from £6.39 with free p+p worth a try ???

Rx-tx confusion by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Google is probably your friend here. You DO need compatible receivers - here is the first discussion I found when googling "spectrum dx6i compatible receiver".... https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/receiver-for-s...

Rx-tx confusion by Lordgord Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
This being my first serious foray into Rx-tx, I am having some difficulty in binding. My question is, do I need a specific brand/type of reciever to be compatible with my spectrum dx6i transmitter? If so, can anyone recommend which one I need to source and where I may purchase one?

RX500 receiver or replacement by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Woody, any other 2.4Gig RX that is FHSS-1 compatible; Frequency Hopping Spread Spectrum. You should be able to get precise info from the distributor here Service@globalhobby.net www.globalhobby.com Or from Sanwa. Cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Rowen, You don't need capacitors at all, and certainly not in series with the wiring. Whereas I can heartily endorse all that jbkiwi says about the possibilities of modern TXs, I've only scratched the surface of what my Spectrum and Turnigy sets can do, I can see no justification for the extra capacitors on ESC leads. The length of the wires inside a typical model can not have a significant effect on the total resistance. Given a typical resistance of 1m of copper wire with ca 1mm² cross sectional area of 0.02Ω (less for larger gauges) it ain't gonna make a happorth of difference whether you have 4" (10cm) or 40". Maybe a little more warmth but the capacitor can't change that. I also can't see where the spikes he mentions should come from. Also bear in mind that the ESC does not apply pure DC to the motor but a pulse train with a pulse repetition rate of around 8 to 10kHz. That's why the motors whistle and scream. Adding capacitors to this could distort the pulses or reduce their peak value. If the ESC is so bad that it produces big spikes when the pulses are switched on or off (which I doubt theses days) then junk it and buy a decent one. On no account fit a capacitor in series with the wiring, unless it is a special Coaxial Capacitor, which are very big and relatively expensive. See pic. I've only seen them on large electric motors on board ships where the much higher currents and longer cable runs involved than in models may play a role. A very small value capacitor, in the picofarad range might help to short out any potential high frequency RF interference but I've never experienced the need to fit them. In this respect it could be more important that the length of the cable is not close to the wavelengths typically used by RC sets (12.5cm at 2.4GHz) so that it does not act like an antenna. Cheers, Doug 😎 jbkiwi have looked at the link you posted but I'm not convinced considering the small lengths we use in our boats. Yes there will be some overshoot spikes in the pulse train but so severe as to damage anything is in my opinion highly unlikely, given a decent quality ESC in the first place. Something else on that link just occurred to me. There is a pic of what looks like electrolytic (polarised) capacitors between the wires. This is fine for aircraft ESCs which only run forwards, and thus produce positive going pulses. In our boats with reverse the pulse will switch over to negative going. Which after a while could have an explosive effect on the electrolytics. It blows the cans off and produces an interesting snowstorm effect. Good party trick😁 but maybe not so super inside a model boat😡 IF you do fit them to a reversible ESC be sure to use tantalum capacitors which aren't so fussy.

Spectrum dx6 mixing for twin screw left stick by bigballs1325697 Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi can anyone help me I've built a twin screw bait boat, escs have reverse and want to be able to control turning using the motors on the left stick. What channels do I need to use and what mixes . Thank you Gary 👍

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
well me thinks both ends of the spectrum of possible approaches are well covered with the posts so far. I have been given a short reprieve as four of the family are coming tonight to stay until Sunday night, so no shed time allowed. May be able to steal some time for sketches for the layout and wiring though.............................. This was not on my list of jobs! Many thanks all. NPJ

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Evenin' John, Yeah, it turned out much easier than I'd expected, as I said it's always easier when you have the 'patient' on your bench! I was expecting to have to get the spectrum analyser warmed up! That's the way it goes sometimes 😊 I can see exactly what my 27 and 40 Meg sets are doing on my 60Meg scope but now I'm getting deeper and deeper into 2.4 Gig tech, and prompted by Martin's snag, I just ordered a little 2.7 Gig analyser!! Curse the expense 'Give the cat another canary' 😉 Many thanks for the die cutting tips. I have some pretty good quality Dremmel diamond tipped cutting discs (0.75mm) so I'm sure they are 'Man enough'! I 'sucked electronic eggs' so all such mechanical engineering tips are more than welcome 👍 All the best, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
IFound out today via bmfa that horizon hobbies who looked after spectrum warranties and repairs are back in uk with darbrorc who are just outside stoke on Trent. Maybe they can get the tx tested and fixed? Several years ago I had a couple of frysky tx and they needed to be set up on a pc don’t know if this is still the case?

Spektrum, new, useless... by johnstanyon Apprentice   Posted: 8 months ago
Ok. Spectrum binding. 1.put bind plug into pins marked battery ,bind. 2 plug battery into either throttle or elevator pins 3 ensure batteryplug is inserted with white or orange wire is nearest to main body of the reciever. Ensure tx is switched off.4 hold switch on top of tx in on position.5 switch on tx and wait approx 30 Seconds .if it is orange receiver it should now show a steady light. 6 remove bind plug..( Check batteries are installed correctly in tx.) It's surprising how many times.folks put them in wrongly..

Spektrum, new, useless... by tidtug Commander   Posted: 8 months ago
Wow with all that I don’t think I will be buying a spektrum?

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
as a rule of thumb charge your battery pack the night before you intend to take your model out to play ( that includes your transmitter). As to binding step 1 with binding plug in power up the receiver look for a rapid flashing light step 2 power up the transmitter with the bind switch held ON. rapid flashing light should change to solid power everything down remove bind plug and keep it safe. Since I have never used the spectrum that's the best I can do. an afterthought you say you have never removed the bind plug are you sure its actually plugged in where it should be not just " parked" for transit?

Radio in a yacht by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi you guys, Your car creations sound fantastic Martin. Like most of us oldies on here I've used all the radio makes over the years, I used to fly on 27 before it went to 35, so how long ago was that?. The way forward now,especially with boats, and medium sized aircraft is to use the like of spectrum dx6i which even the old model holds up to 10 models (the new one holds 250 models😳). I have two transmitters one for boats and one for planes, I only have two because of the boats really need a throttle return spring on the left stick. Then,as Haverlock mentioned, just buy orange rx receivers @ £9 each for individual boats or models, although I do us a more expensive orange receiver for the planes, but they only work out to £20 / £30. Happy days. Norman.

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! It has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet. Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking! Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made. BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉 If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz. Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊 Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet. The spark energy density spectrum peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference. BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲 The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got! Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔 Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections. Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place! Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper?? These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲 If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how. I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation. Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation. Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage. Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed. BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊 Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊 Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy. Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC. Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse. Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔 Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from. Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭 Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse. Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board. Have fun, cheers Doug 😎

4 Motors 1 Stick by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 months ago
Gentlemen, today's question. I have four motors in my, under construction, 1/200 HMS Hood. They are wired with two dual esc's, one for the port motors and one for the starboard. I have a Turnigy 9x transmitter. I would like to be able to use the port and starboard motors for maneouverabilty (I think that's how you spell it), eg reverse starboard, forward port etc. This is in addition to all four ahead and reverse and right and left rudder. It would be great if I could do all this with one stick. I have done something similar with a Spectrum 6ch and two motors using such things as VTail and Flaperon, but instructions with the Turnigy are not that clear. Is anyone willing to take up the challenge? Thank you Steve