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I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £600. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.
Grandpa, I started with a direct drive Speed 500 on 6 cells (7.2V) and it didn't have the performance I was looking for. I later changed to the Speed 600 and 8 cells (9.6V) and it made a huge difference. I'm not convinced how effective the cooling coil is as the flow from the outlet is not as much as I anticipated however this could be a function of the poor design of inlet that I'm using. Bottom line is I don't think the cooling coil is necessary. I make up my own battery packs and for this one I use two x four cells, one on each side of the centerline. As I previously stated I was a school boy when I built my original and the hard chines nearly made me throw in the towel. As an impatient youth it appeared to take for ever to plane them to match the bulkheads hence my switch over to laminations of 1/4 x 1/8 on my remake. Have fun and keep up with the posts. Robert
Hi Grandpa, If you go back through the build logs to 2009 you will find my build log for the Kingfisher. I first made one when I was a school boy many years ago and later came across the plans at my parents house and decided I would try and scratch build from the plans but with a few minor mods (dump the hard chine in favour of laminate strip). Its a great little boat and is very stable in high speed turns. On mine I made the bench seat a drop in accessory and opened up the bulkhead to aford extra space for the motor connections. I'm now running a Speed 600 on eight cells and its got a nice turn of speed. https://model-boats.com/builds /view/23/2 Robert
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, Its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some RC plane gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year. However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished! Back on track... George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only. Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with rc planes, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing. Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tu rnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner -for-600-heli-880kv.html This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊 If brushless, its a specific speed controller, https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ho bbyking-50a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.h tml and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running. Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up! Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you. If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result, Any questions, just ask, Paul PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉
Hi Simon. Just like Canabus I have a few of this type of boat, all with brushless motors. So just to confuse you, 😀 here is the Sea Rover I am building at the moment, the motor is a Speed 600 I have a few photos of the build if you need them. Why did I choose a Speed 600, it was in my box of bits 😀 Alan
I followed Mark's suggestion and gave the motors some running-in. After that, I found that with a small tweak on the stbd trim tab I was able to get a good speed match on the shafts with the radio control sticks at the same setting. I dropped the voltage to 6V, which is entirely adequate for the model. (I need 12V for the lighting, so I'll have to fit a voltage reducer for propulsion at some point.) During the testing I had a mishap with the batteries and have replaced the four 1600mAh batteries with two 2500mAh. These are heavier, so the model sits a little lower in the water, which will have an effect. Today was the first run in the pond after all the experimenting. Not the best conditions because there was an intermittent breeze. It appears to be better, will sail further in a straight line before it wanders off and makes a circle; still random. Next step will be to fit the larger rudders and wait for a windless day to test it. No video yet, but will try and get some on that occasion. I think progress has been made.
HI John The motors will be OK on 14.4v see below: Motor Nominal Voltage Voltage Range No-Load RPM NO-Load Current Current @ Max Effic. Stalled Current Max Efficiency Case Length Case Diam Free Shaft Length Shaft Diam Weight Speed 700 TURBO 9.6v 4.8-14.4v 15,000 2A 12.5A 65A 75% 67mm 42.2mm 14mm 5mm 320g Speed 700 BB TURBO 9.6v 4.8-16.8v 13,000 2A 15A 77A 75% 67mm 42.2mm 14mm 5mm 350g Speed 700 RACE 9.6v 7.2-9.6v 19 000 3.3A 17.5A 90A 69% 66mm 44.5mm 10.5mm 5mm 362g Speed 700 BB TURBO 12v 7.2-19.2v 11,600 2A 12.5A 43A 75% 67mm 44mm 14mm 5mm 350g As you can see there are quite wide variations in the spscs and apart from the race version all will be OK. They are fairly heavy current so you will need some beefy ESC's, probably at least 100 amp but preferably 150 amp. As you are using LiPo you will need ESCs that will cut the power to the motor when the safe discharge voltage is reached. I have a timer on my Tx that warns me before the power is reduced. There are many suppliers of ESC on the web and in the UK. I would be wary of some of the Chinese suppliers as they can and do overrate the capacity on their ESCs. If the wiring is not substantial then it is unlikely the current will be as indicated. Good hunting Dave
HI Derek The speed 600 are a good motor for fast planing boats, but are rather heavy on the current draw and don't start well at low revs. Ideally you need some low current high tork 500 size motors. Slipway used to sell a low current version for their Trent kits and Component Shop stock a 555. Assuming your batteries are 4AHr I am not surprised that they don't last long. Your only viable option to improve the duration is to replace the 600s with a low drain motor. The added benefit will be easier control round a steering course. Dave
HI Derek Yes I fully understand. The LiPo will certainly improve your speed. I moved to brushless and LiPos with my fast boats but LiPos work well with brushed motors. There is so much more power available and provided you follow the guidelines re charging and discharge cut off they are OK. You may need to fit a warning device to the boat to prevent over discharge of the LiPo but they are cheap and will save your battery (and boat). Your motor will get much hotter so you may need to consider water cooling. My speed 600s in a small Perkassa were OK on NiMhs but started cooking on LiPos. The 700BB Turbo are a much better motor and should really develop lots of power at 11.1v Hopefully your ESC will handle the fully charged voltage and higher current. Dave 😀
HI Eric Seems a neat installation. However the rx and aerial appear to be right next to the ESC and motor with the aerial actually running alongside the motor. Speed 600 motors are fairly good at generating electricaol noise, especially at speed, and it is possible that it is this interference that is causing your receiver to lose signal in the middle of the lake. Ideally your high current power wires need to run as far away from any receiver wires and the aerial. With 2.4 Ghz the aerial must at all times be above the waterline as the signal cannot penetrate water, unlike say a 40Mhz system. I usually try and run he power wires on one side of a boat with the receiver wires on the other. Running power and rx low current wires in close proximity can result in noise being induced ( bit like a transformer). I had a problem with a model Trent lifeboat where I had placed the rx with the aerial pointing down into the boat as it seemed sensible, but it was below the waterline and about 10yds out it started stopping and starting. Looking at your videos the signal is being lost causing the ESC to reset. As you apply power the signal is again lost and the process repeats. Initially try just moving the Rx so the aerial is pointing away from the motor and ESC. Ideally you need to move it away from the ESC as that is also a high source of interference. Hopefully your rx will then not lose signal. If this is a new TX/rx its possible you have a faulty set. Can you run the tx in reduced mode to check output? Sorry I do not have a FlySky set so am not familiar with its settings. I also notice that you appear to have a separate voltage dropper. The Viper has a built in BEC so you can't use both at the same time. You can cut the red wire in the lead from the ESC to the receiver. I usually just remove the red connection from the plug and tape it to the lead so I can replace on another boat. Please let me know how you progress. There are other steps that can help reduce the motor noise, but its not normally necessary with 2.4Ghz sets. Cheers Dave 😀
Thanks Dave, here's some more info: the tug is running with a 6v 4,5ah battery powering a speed 600 motor, the tx/rx are by Flysky and the ESC is an mtroniks 20amp marine. Hopefully the pics and video help, there are lots of connections unfortunately. Hope you can help.. Eric
The Johnson 600 is a very popular motor, its what comes as standard with a club 500. Having club 500 experience, on same voltage, my personal recommendation is the Sea Queen is a heavy old girl compared to the much smaller and plastic light Club 500. I think it will be underpowered., that Hull needs a turn of speed to get up on the plane. they go very well then, its not a slow boat, but then its really personal and depends what you want. You may also experience overheating, as the motor will be working hard. If you want to stay with a brushed motor then I would use a 600, something like a graupner 600BB Turbo. I did a lot of experimenting some years back when rebuilding my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, and the 600 came out well as direct drive or with a gearbox. Up the voltage to the max in the range will give more speed. Paul
I have just been given a Sea Commander that was built in 1958 but never quite finished, it has been very well made and just needs painting and the running gear fitting. So here is my question, will a Speed 600 9.6 volts motor that I have, fed with 9.6 volt C cells and a 40 mm two bladed prop be enough to get it up on the plain and look the part. Alan
Hi, I use the same motor on both my 46" Fireboat and on my slightly bigger Perkasa. It is the Turnigy AquaStar 4084-620KV, run with two 5000mAh 4 cell (14.8V) LiPo batteries in parallel, and this gives both boats a brilliant and potentially slightly overscale speed and a long run time. Go to http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking /store/__31678__Turnigy_AquaSt ar_4084_620KV_Water_Cooled_Bru shless_Motor.html to see it. Both boats are single motor, single shaft, 3 blade propeller, the Fireboat has 50mm prop and the Perkasa 55mm. This motor will produce 3kW in short bursts but is relatively lightly loaded in these boats so it has power capacity to spare. The kV value is just the rpm per volt applied to the motor so a 620KV motor runs proportionally slower than say a 1600kv motor which is probably too fast for this sort of boat, and it means you can run a bigger prop. For the speed control I use see my boats on this site.