[Score: 5/10] 29" HMS Juno Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 1Amp/h Batteries - Comments: It started off as a model from a BBC hobby magazine. Stand off scale. I decided to try to make it better so bought an Airfix kit and scaled up the dimensions to suit. it was my first radio control model with a Mcgregor 2 channel radio and a resistance speed controller attached to a servo. the photo was taken at Queens Park Glasgow in 1990 although the model was built in the 1970,s I no longer sail her as age has made her somewhat delicate. The hull is Balsa plank on frame covered with Tissue Paper Doped and painted.
Hi Nick, all sorts of goodies! But let's walk before we try to run 😉 One thing I would recommend is a Wattmeter for testing your motor / battery combinations so you know what current the motor will draw. Re RX Battery: PLEASE do not forget to disconnect the red lead in the ESC plug for the RX otherwise you get a clash between the RX battery and the BEC circuit of the speed controller! Cheers Doug 😎
With my boats getting routinely stranded in the middle of nowhere, I felt compelled to commission a rescue vessel and "Triton" was born. "Triton" is a Springer-type tug push boat. With a hull and superstructure consisting of an “Indiana” style command cabin, it was built using a pretty basic birch plywood American kit designed for swimming pool water polo. Kit altered to resemble a fictitious Salvamento Marítimo (Spanish Coast Guard) unit following Salvamento Marítimo’s actual boat markings. Equipment and deck layout inspired on actual Springer tug push boats supporting larger vessels and barges found in US and European ports and rivers. Model built during September – October 2015. Approx. 1/18 scale. Real life boat could be a 30-footer (9.14m) vessel. Equipped with 9v LED navigation lights and sound system. Powered by an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor, NiMH 7.4v battery, a 3-bladed 44mm propeller, and a 6-12V 320A RC Ship & Boat R/C Hobby Brushed Motor Speed Controller.
Here's mine I built as per plan about 4 years ago. Name: "Merlin" Specs NiMH (7.2v) 4 Amp/h MTronics Viper Marine 15A Constant Motor: High speed Low drain 545 Type: Brushed Drive: Direct Drive Props: Single Propellor Type: 2 Blade X Type Size: 35mm Built from a Traplet plan In 2013. All wood construction, 545 direct drive motor water cooled with 2 blade prop. 2x 3.7amp 7.2 volt NiMhd batteries and a Mtronics Viper Marine 15amp speed controller.
Dave M beat me to it. I have the same model. It's fitted with a speed 600BB motor and a 40mm prop. I use an Mtroniks 25amp speed controller (which is being changed to a 30amp Tio esc shortly so I can use my Lipos). It planes nicely on out lake, and seems quite good handling. Good luck with yours 😊
Hi Jim Early 4 wire Sprengbrock or possibly a Bonner. In the early days of RC they were the best (and dearest) available. Looks like this was wired to operate a change over switch and potentiometer. If it was in a boat it was possible used as a speed controller using transistors.
Hi Peter, De Schelde is now part of the 'Damen Schelde Naval Shipbuilding (DSNS)' group. http://www.schelde.com/ Since I don't have (and don't want!) a Google account I can't access your build photos 🤔 Would love to see them here in a Build Blog!😉 I know what you mean about 'never finished'! I first built my H class 1936 destroyer HMS Hotspur when I was about 14, I'm now 65, and she's currently undergoing about her 4th refit / rebuild, each time with more modern materials and electronics. In the old days I had to build a lot of electronics myself; speed controller, relay switching board etc. All good fun 😉 For Hotspur's funnel I used a similar technique to you, with 0.5mm 3ply. The original version was done with 1/32 balsa sheet! Cheers Doug 😎
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go
Hi Again, I am even more confused now, I have never been good with the electrics, this is why up to now any electric boat I have had has been either ready built, or standard 580 style motor with a standard speed controller. Those have been easy the same as R/C is easy to fit. I might just go down the road of motor fitted and no reversing. After all all the ic powered boats I have had have never had reverse on them.
I have that funny square stick coupling with my Taycol Super Marine. But was going to use a rubber coupling, Which is best. I plan to put this motor in either my Sea Queen or possibly my 46" Crash Tender. Not sure which though. As I have purchased a nice brushless motor and speed controller to go with it. I am unsure though if it will push the boat fast enough. I have tried the Taycol with a electronic speed controller on the bench and it seem's to work's OK but I have seen some say that they interfere with the speed electronic controllers. Any advice on this please.
Hi Gdaynorm That should be OK. The speed controller in the picture is marked made in China and their rating of 128 amps seems very optimistic. That said we have looked at all the components and the only remaining possible cause, assuming the motors and ESC are not faulty, is the prop sizes and pitch. If they are causing a too heavy load on the motor then the current will be excessive and your new battery is certainly capable of providing lots of power. I do believe the ESC was cutting out due the overheating. As others have said you cannot always rely on Chinese ESC quoted ratings, and in my experience they seem to have missed out a decimal point. You have several options: 1. make a reduction unit between each motor and prop so the load on the motor is reduced. 2. fit smaller props 3. measure the stall current of each motor using a watt-meter and buy two speed controllers with double this current capacity. Initially I would experiment with option 2 to prove the props are the cause of the problem. You can then decide if you wan't to try another option. Option 3 will result in shorter sailing times. Davwe
Hi I have a 50amp speed controller (with blue anodised heat sink case) from China running a Torpedo brushed motor, but it only gives high power one way.(think about 20amps reverse). I found to get max power ahead my transmitter stick comes back, reverse at lower power is forward stick.
Hi i did sum modification to the front of the superstructure it was out of line and all so i work on fitting the propeller shaft in.The 2 motor needit to be fitted in and the 2 15A speed controllers . I made up the battery tray and fitted it in the hull . cliff