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Model Boats Website Team
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Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
Hi Falmouth. I have been using Halfords car spray cans and provided you prepare the surface well, the results are more than satisfactory. The cans are not too expensive and I use a wax car polish to enhance the finish. Here's one I prepared earlier. Volkswagen brilliant orange and gloss black. Hope this helps. Steve
HI Grandpa, If you mean the entire pulpit railing from cabin to the bow and round. First measure the deck, marking where each upright will be, the uprights seem to be the same height, so that part is easy, source some 16g welding rod, (stainless will be to difficult to braze) then shape to the size of the deck, try to keep the bends smooth as it may kink. Second. Get a scrap board bit bigger than your deck, mark each stanchion position and drill holes to match, stand the stanchions in the holes and start to lay the top rail silver solder for strength each stanchion as you get to it, might be easier to work side to side towards the bow, this will stop you burning your fingers!!!! To finish you could have the rails chromed or use a chrome spray paint, can't tell if the rails have feet (small washers) if so add these over the stanchions before you solder the top rail, they will stop them going too deep into the deck, finally drill and glue the railing into the deck, a sod of a job but the look will enhance your model Hope this helps Mark
Yes some more recent models, predominantly made for racing do have moulded rails along the bottom. Two reasons, one to add strength, especially if of thin material and secondly to provide lateral stability at the high speeds encountered. When the Aerokits were designed in around 1960s plastic was not commonly available to hobbyists and models were designed using wood/plywood and the originals did not even have spray rails fitted. The running gear was also heavy and bulky resulting in much heavier models than are possible today so the hulls did not plane so easily and the rails were not needed for most models. Technology can now turn out hulls in bulk using extruded and formed plastic and the rails add to the strength to help keep the shape. You can see this on most plastic packaging used for consumer items
Hi All I was told to use plumber's tap silicon grease, which I have used for 3 years and only regreased once each year. I have added oiler/grease tubes to my rudders as well. Also you can get a silicon spray like WD40, but, with the silicon spray it crawls up the shaft. With the shaft out and the tube cleaned out(pipe cleaner works well for this) a shot of silicon grease in each end of the tube(only small amount). Hold your finger over the other end and install the shaft, this stops the grease coming out as the shaft comes through. A shot of silicon spray down the oiler tube and seal silicon fuel tube sealed off at one end. Canabus
After beck paint dried overnight, spent an hour painting the deck boards before alit of masking followed by spray painting the bulwarks. I have installed the stanchions. Tomorrow will see any areas of touching up required (tip- if using rattlecans, gently spray some into the cap which can then be used for touch ups, clean brush using cellulose thinners) and then final coats of laquer. After all this it will be on with the final fittingbif rope work and s few other bits n bobs
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Guys Well today is the day. CG of the boat at 410mm from the bow and it sits in the water on the waterline. Cruised of at a slow pace with camera man taking pics. Up to 1/3 throttle and up on the plane, nice smooth turns with the rudder. Water flying all over the place!! Up to 1/2 throttle and sitting up nice on the plane. The boat handling as smooth as butter, the spray of water from the boat is about the same as one with spray rails. Pop up to full throttle and well pass scale speed, but by this time the camera man was not keeping up to the job. Totally happy with the boat, but still requires a few bits to finish the job. Enjoy the pics and happy boating. Canabus
HI Mate, I think you might be ambitious with the 1.5mm ply, could be too stiff to go round the corners, 1mm, would be better. As you are not planking, I would go for light glass cloth on the outer hull just for protection, small rocks or screws sticking out from a landing stage or bumps and bangs in the workshop, the glass would help to protect the hull. Lifeboats have a superb gloss, blemish free surface, so plenty of elbow grease and buckets of primer. For the topcoats, could i suggest a spray gun, not rattle cans, just for the quality of finnish, also by the time you have bought all the cans, a reasonable spray gun will work out far cheaper, particularly if you get your paint from a pro shop supplies, sandpaper, primer, filler and top colours are all far cheaper. Looking forward to the update on your build. Mark
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave
Hi All Repaired one of the broken cabin pieces under the aft side window and added strengthen timber forward and aft(windows). The gap under the windows to the deck, I laid down two layers of masking tape and mixed up some Selley's Plasti-bond. Pushed the cabin onto this and waited for it to harden. Removed cabin, removed the masking tape, sand the areas and spray filler undercoated. A nice clean gap!!! Canabus