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>> Home > Tags > spray can

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Spray painting hulls. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Ah, cellulose, of blessed memory. I still have some, come to think of it, but forgetfully, I bought black gloss enamel for Vanity and some enamel primer for it also in black First coat on today. But I will definitely experiment with spraying the final coats. I sprayed an old pre-War Marblehead with enamel and it went on well. You can still get cellulose if you can convince the dealer it's for your classic car. My son has a 1951 Renown so I could always quote all IT'S details to get it, but I don't think they'll post it and I'm nowhere near any suppliers geographically. I couldn't see the point in paying for epoxy tissue so I bought a huge bag of J cloths from Poundland and used that with epoxy. Slarred the epoxy on the mahogany hull (made from old chair legs my Grandad had made a dining suite with) and then laid the J-cloth on the tacky epoxy and slarred more on with an old credit card. All my credit cards are old now and a damned site more useful as epoxy squeegees than they ever were before. Got a few ridges where they overlapped, but filler sorted that out. The hull is still very light, so will need all the large lead weights on the end of a long fin keel (removable) as it carries a big rig, (see avatar). Good luck, Martin

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a “feel” for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. If it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the “dry” propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. If it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

Which Paint? by andyhynes Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Back to the main hull Have finally got the hull sprayed today with this heat it has been drying faster than I can spray it on 😄 Firstly the hull was sanded with a 200grit paper to sand of the shiny coating to give the paint something to key too. It has had three coats of undercoat sanded with 2500grít wet and dry paper between each coat.the undercoat used was Halfords rattle can plastic primer. Then the lower hull colour was sprayed on again three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.colour used was Halfords rattle can ford arctic blue. the top half of the hull was sprayed with two coats only with it being black plus I didn't have enough paint to give it a third coat😋 colour used was Halfords rattle can satin black. Finally the hull was sprayed with Halfords rattle can clear lacquer three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.

Spray painting hulls. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi guys, I spray my hulls using various systems. I have an industrial 120 litre 3hp compressor, with devilbiss spray guns which are for larger areas. I also have Badger air brushes and compressor with 2litre tank for the smaller hulls and detail work. I sometimes use cans, which I usually get mixed at local automotive paint supplier. I try to stick to R.A.L. paint codes. Most automotive paint from my supplier is acrylic or water based. But I always try to use good quality synthetic lawyer. I recently tried a polyester based laquer but it didn't thin down very well. But whatever method is used for painting it's the preparation that makes the end result, and that's 90% patience and 10% skill. I certainly have more patience than skill as I've only been doing it for 50+ years. Cheers Colin.

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks to you too Peter 👍 Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter 😉 I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. 😉

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience 😉 Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process 🤔 See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. It's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊 Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊 For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and Italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. It should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detail👍 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go 😉 Look forward to the Blog👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Sanding down. by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached. The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures. I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do. If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful. I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁 I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😡 I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below. One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long. Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.🤔

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Boatshed, the Germans have a saying / proverb "Übung macht den Meister"! = 'Practise makes the master' or Practise makes perfect! Basic reasons for runs are- 1) spraying too close and 2) moving the nozzle too slow, Both resulting in a heavy coat that can't support it's own weight! Also trying to put another coat on before the previous one is fully dry and hard. Like I said; Patience is the main secret ingredient 😉 Cheap cans spit, quality cans don't! The ones I use, esp. the K Series for cars, come with a selection of colour coded nozzles for Small areas cone, Medium to large cone and a large area fan shape. Mostly I use the medium nozzle. Small one if 'touch-ups' are needed 😲They nozzles also fit DIY shop cans 😊 Start spraying beyond the object and carry on at an even pace beyond the other end. Go back in a slightly overlapping stripe until there's an even THIN coat all over. Then - FIND SOMETHING ELSE TO DO FOR A HALF HOUR OR SO!! It's like the old lady in Brooklyn who asked a Cop 'How do I get to Carnegie Hall'? Cop's answer "Practise lady, practise" 😁 BTW: shaking a good bit longer and heating the can in hot water (to increase the pressure!) can sometimes help with the 'spitting'.👍

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I see you have shown some small bristle brushes. Yes I do have those all stored in a Cadbury's chocolate finger tin. When I said about bristle brushes I meant larger ones from DIY shops for painting larger area's. But looking at your build blog this is where I am going wrong. You seem to be spraying and I use brushes. I am not very good at the spraying lark. I always seem to get runs. I think I must try to rush the spraying but I also seem to get cans that end up spitting the paint when I use them. I think some more perseverance is needed. Thanks for the information.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I think a lot of my problems are that when painting I have used brushes, and I find that these new ones that are now not pure soft bristle do not give such a good finish and I should be using spray paint. I do not seem to get the finish on them that I should. It is your secret ingredient ( patience) that I must be lacking. The more I look at your Sea Scout I the more I think that the hull is almost the same as the Sea Hornet that I have got but with an upper structure. Any was thanks for the information I will have to get my head into gear and search my brains to see if I can find some of you secret ingredient. Have you decided yet on your pin striping. But I will look forward too seeing yours in action.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. If you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway. Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge. This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉 These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1. The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat. Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck. Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊 Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6. After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10. Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁 BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉 Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour! E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black! So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello RNM and others. The 20mm gun arrived today. I am really pleased with it. To my surprise, it does move up and down. It has no rotational movement. I will attach pictures at the end. I bought the "beast" motor that you suggested Canabus. I will have to see how it fits in. Do you think the universal joints I am using now are suitable or should I upgrade these considering the RPM. One other question I have for today is about paint. Can you suggest a suitable paint to use on my boat. I am not concerned about the colour, just the type/make at this stage. I read an article here earlier that suggested to use Holts car spray cans. What are your thoughts on this. I have an air brush if this is more suitable, but would like help on a suitable paint choice. I will attach the gun pictures now. If there is a particular angle you would like, please reply and I will try to add tomorrow. Thanks. Peter.😉

Port lights in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
All port lights are in place, all 26 of them! The aft cabin port lights are optional. I decided to put them. as it adds detail to the cabin. On most tugs of that era they had port lights aft. Brooklyn is a representation of a 1910 steam tug. They were dark green in color. But I want a light green. 30 years ago, when I worked in New York Harbor. I remember having to spray paint a GM6110 Diesel Engine. The green was a light green, Kind of light in shade. I believe the name of the color is Alpine Green! So, I won't be painting my tug yet. until I find the right shade of green that I want! The dark green makes the tug look menasing! Now if you look at the third picture on the right. That's the shade. I wouldn't mind painting her! If anybody can Identify that shade of green. Please let me know who might have it. Or where can I purchase it from....