Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. It would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
Hi all, got my Crash Tender bottom sprayed red today, so I'm nearing when I'll need the hull decals for FIRE, roundels and numbers. Anyone know where they can be had from? Also what does that stuff on the bow say/look like. I can hand paint that if necessary. Cheers, Martin
Hi Neville, I recognise the 'I want it all and I want it now syndrome' cropping up again😉 Wev'e been down this road before haven't we!? You don't have any "structural' problems. The original builder simply cheated and covered over the 'back bay' instead of fitting it out. And - Why do you want to mess with the cabin tops? To get the boat going for some fun just leave the superstructure like that for now and think about it and fiddle with it in the winter. The deck looks fine from the photos. Just flat off with some 1000/1500 grit wet & dry and give it a spray of medium sea grey and finish with satin or matt varnish. After you've fixed and repainted the hull. If you do all we've said to fix the hull, and apply the fix up to the joint of hull and deck there will be as good as no chance that the deck will leak. When all is said and done YOU saw the boat before you bought it and YOU had a specific purpose in mind apparently. Namely; some quick fun. Soooo - fix the hull, have some fun learning to drive it, and leave the fiddly bits and embellishments until the 'closed season'. Then you can deliberate and decide if you want to restore it as an RSL or convert it into something more exotic. Looking forward to your cogitations on the electrical layout😉 What Action bits are you thinking of using? BTW: if you had a fire at all with the heat gun either you have it too hot, turn it down to about 300 -350°C, or you're hanging about too long in one place. The gun should only be just hot enough to start the paint surface bubbling up. ATB Doug
Added a 60A ESC of Chinese origin, improved waterproofing, and modified the rudder water pickup. Repainted trim tab extension as while it sat in the test tank (AKA the bath) the water got into the wood and split the paint work car spray paint not as water proof as I had hoped. On the test I found it was pulling over 40Amps which is not what I want as this is a race boat with limited battery capacity so cut down propeller by filling of the lagging edge of the prop via a drimmel and a file, so now pulls under 30A at full throttle. At the pond I will check current and prop-sizes.
Had to order a small bottle of Testers Thinner. See, I used spray cans to paint the superstructure of the Brooklyn! So there was some area's that need to be tidied up a bit! So my idea is to spray some of the leftover paint. Into a small cup and use one of my small brushes. To paint over some area's that have over spray! So, I need a way to clean my brush! Hence the Thinner...…….! Now, I can finish the build of the Brooklyn! Tommorrow, I plan on working on her running lights! For this I must give credit where it is do, Thanks to RNinMunich Doug, for you hard work and dedication, Thanks again Doug! I printed out the diograms you sent me. They are a lot of help!
Evenin' Neville, For a first attempt spraying that's damn good👍 I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls. 0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109. Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are- Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!), Don't get to close, Don't move too slow! Keep up the good work👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Doug. Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.😆 No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. It is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it. Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.
Model is 49” long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon spray can paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has auxiliary 6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing ability’s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.
A quick Flashback to May 😲 Got sidetracked with 'lectrickery' an' stuff🤔 Hull was given a final spray top coat and gloss clear lacquer coat. All flatted back in between coats with 3000 grit Tamiya W&D sponges. Used wet with a drop of liquid soap. Then a few hours of polishing with car paint cutting compound and finally with 'anti hologram' polish until it feels like glass.😊 Same polishing procedure for the decks and cabin sides. Fitted a few deck fittings; tank filler caps, which also hold the aft deck down, and 'Jam' cleats fore and aft. Both from the 'Riva' range from Krick. Apart from the cockpit she's done! Need suitable scale crew and cockpit furniture now. Ship's wheel I have but that's it so far. Last pic is a reminder of how the 'old girl' started out last year, after 25 years of neglect in the cellar! Sea Trial soon. Cheers, All, Doug 😎
The Brooklyn's pilot house is made of clear plastic. That's got groves indentations and so forth! You have to tape up the windows. before you paint them! Then you have to paint the window frames. after you paint the pilot house! I used spray paint for the pilot house. So, I have to be patient and accurate! I should be done by this Sunday! If not OK Monday or even Tuesday!
Thanks once again for the information. I have found that the "sprinkling sand" method of recreating the non slip surface can be a little hit and miss unless you take exceptional care to get the covering uniform. Instead I have used a can of textured spray paint available from Halfords and then overpainted it with my chosen colour. Regards Shaun
Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf. If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish. Cheers, Martin
Very neat Ed 👍 but how are you going to spray them without over-spraying the cabin and details you have already so carefully painted !!?? 😲 BTW: small tip for photography 😉 Try not to photograph against a bright background. The auto exposure of the camera will adjust to the bright background (like your backlit window) and makes the foreground darker and obscures the detail we all want to see 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. It starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some acrylic crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. It'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. It was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin