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>> Home > Tags > spray

spray
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spray paint
spray rails
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Pt boat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I guess it could be sealed up. The opening to the jet drives is small. You can't get your hands in! The opening which is under the 50 cal.on her stern. is meant more for working on the jet drives! To grease if you will! You could maybe spray some kind of sealer! But why have to fix a brand new boat! I was told I had gotten a leaky boat. As for her sitting low. It's just the design of the thing! As the jet drive pump water. the boat digs into the water! Don't get me wrong it's a great looking boat! I sent mine back, the wife wants me to get another one!

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

SG&K gentlemans runabout by BigAlio Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Stancraft boat has spray rails from bow to front of cockpit but I think there needed when you have 625hp on tap : StanCraft Torpedo Viper V10 625hp. think i might build mine as a stancraft version.

SG&K gentlemans runabout by canabus Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi BigAlio Thank you for the you tube link, some very nice boats. The double seat SG&K with the motor up front was especially interesting. My single seat model preformed spot on straight up. I would drop the sides down from the bow and add in some hidden spray rails, has it is a very wet boat at slow speed and cornering.

Decks removed by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi deep..., Don't know about 'used' looks more like THROWN IN' 😡 from across the room! Good luck, just don't hit the chisel too hard!! Try with a not too blunt chisel to get the bevelled edge under the rim of the c**p. Re: time to work... The fish cutter is well down the to-do list 😉 Although I have managed to clean up and modify my old Taycol Target field motor (removed from the Sea Scout) to run both forward and backward off a normal brushed ESC which will now go in the cutter 😊 My Sea Scout renovation is top of the list. She's now fitted with a new RX, shaft/prop and brushless and ready for sea trials, when the local lake melts 🤔 Then just cosmetics, mostly in the cockpit and after deck area. After that fit decent brass props and electronics to my HMS Belfast. After that .... we'll see 😉 PT109 needs a respray and electronics ... Graf Spee needs a new prop shaft stbd side ... Catalina needs electronics fitting ... Southampton tug needs putting back together ... 🤔 As a single pensioner finding time is easier that it was a year ago. The GF has her own abode ca 2 miles away 😉😉 Happy chiselling, Doug 😎 PS suspect the biggest mess from the cutter will be removing what looks like layers of ancient oil based paint 😡 Will wait for the summer to do that outside.

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by ads90 Commander   Posted: 25 days ago
Many thanks Dave and all. The reason I think it was a kit is because of the superstructure and deck detailing which you cannot see on my photos. All of the window frames have raised rivets around them and the deck has deck raised deck strips. As a modeller I know that these can be recreated but they look too perfectly spaced, etc. Many thanks for looking through your back catalogues Dave. Terry was very helpful and sent me quite a bit of information - he is a font of knowledge. My boat is well used at our pond at Eastrop, Basingstoke where I am the Secretary and Treasurer of the model boat club. Every couple of years I do have to give the hull a rub down and re-spray as being made from balsa and when running fast, the vibration does tend to crack the hull along the panel joint lines, but it is an easy fix and I try not to abuse it as it is precious to me.

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

Spraying/hand painting by luckybill Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Undertaker, I will try that out on some scrap wood first, in fact I will do that with any type of paint I am going to use

Spraying/hand painting by Undertaker Apprentice   Posted: 1 month ago
Smooth the existing paint down and give it two coats of water based undercoat, this will stop any reaction to any type of paint, on , so I have found

Spraying/hand painting by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.

Spraying/hand painting by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Mark, I'm blessed with a wife who used to work in the automotive paint trade as a colour matcher, mixer, so she always helps me with my painting problems. But by far the most important thing to remember is preparation is key to all work. Cheers Colin.

Spraying/hand painting by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin, Isolator is available in aerosol form, its about £10 from specialist paint suppliers, plus all the filler, paper, stopper, thinners and masking tape. Mark

Spraying/hand painting by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes the answer is to use UPOL BARCOTE QUICK DRYING ISOLATOR. But costs about £26 a litre. But this will go over all types of paint and then allow you to paint without a reaction. It may be available in an aerosol. Please check it out as I find it saves hours of stropping on my old boats, my newest being about 1980, and oldest from 1918. Hope this helps, Colin.

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I am getting there, some more rubbing down then filling with model filler I will get there in the end