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>> Home > Tags > stanchions

stanchions
stanchions
Building a deck by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.

fitting in stauntobns solent lifeboat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Is stauntobns Irish for stanchions? I still don't know the measurement but surely one of the Lifeboat buffs does. Cheers Doug 😎

Small scale cleats and bollards by Westquay Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
And by today's post I receive a small Jiffy bag full of goodies!! What a service, from the IoM too! ModellingTimbers:- http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/ Everything I asked for, rigging cord to die for, Japanese rigging shears, a scale model galvanised bucket kit with photo-etched detail(!!!) and the most beautiful stanchions. 2 ball for my scale, but no matter, they will look superb on "Vanity" with a bit of cable run through the balls. And the cheapest brass strip I have ever seen (for deck trim, once plated, on classic speedboat models). I repeat my warning that anything you require, I would get now, as he may run out and several lines will not be repeated, at any price. Martin

Make what you can and buy what you have to by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
and in the adjacent handicraft section you can find things like reels of inexpensive and fine silver and brass wire, like I used for the 'balcony' on my U26 👍 soldering needs cleaning up I know! Or stainless steel cable as I used for the handrails just visible at the bottom of the picture 😎 Stanchions are split-pins 😉

working on hand rail and stanchions by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi i need some help on hand rail and stanchions the measurement how far in from the side of the superstructure all so between stanchions and the full length of the hand rail front and back of the of superstructure. many thanks cliff

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Thought I would have ago at the fittings for the booms. The bands around the mast made as before ( bore a bar to fit & part off). Solder a lug on place on a mandrill together & drill pivot hole, so they are the same. The barrel, drill down the centre of a 3/16th rod to fit a 3/32 rod. Solder on a lug wile soldering the rods together. Notice the small rod protrudes farther out at the bottom. This is so as I take the tension of the sail the top can pull out freeing the barrel, allowing the sail to be rolled around the boom. The lug is drilled 10BA clearance. The rod in the centre of the boom is turned from hexagon bar, a saw cut down the centre of the remaining hexagon. Drilled & tap 10BA & clearance one side. Now looking in my old gears, thinking of a size to make the reefing drum a stroke of luck. I found the wheels from a correction tape dispenser just the job. Made the stanchions in the 4 jaw. A jig to get the holes the correct distance from the out side of the hull. As the hull planks are 3" & the bulwark planks only 1" the do not run up flush as nearly all models show.

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

1/12scale SPEEDLINE Trent lifeboat kit by modeltugman Admiral   Posted: 5 months ago
I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £500. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.

Upper deck details by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Dave, No I didn't make the scale 1/78th brass Stanchions. They are available from Billings Boats.

Upper deck details by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I used to hate doing stanchions and railings. Do you use a jig to make the stanchions?

Upper deck details by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 5 months ago
More work on hand rails, rail stanchions and radar mast. Next on list will be the rails to the stanchions and hand rails to the cabin Eye bolts. Wheel house roof will be removable and will incorporate working LED lights.

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Guys. Progress with my Cygnus Crabber is slow but positive. I am using the old "measure twice cut once" approach to every aspect of the build and picking as many brains and taking valuable advice from people, such as your good selves, as I can ! This is one such occasion. I am fast approaching the task of soldering, which I have never done before. I am making all the steelwork of the boat, i.e. stanchions, shooting bar, 'A' frame and railings out of brass tube and rod. I have made up a wooden jig to pattern the railings and 'A' frame. I have bought enough brass to afford me some extra for "dummy runs". Now when it come to the actual soldering I see on the market is some solder paste (solder and flux mixed) called "Plumbers Mate", I've watched a couple of videos using this product and it seems as though it would suit a novice like me. The thickest rod I am using is 2mm. Do you think this product suitable and do you have any other views please ? Yours studiously !😉

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Cliff I believe it would have been 3:32 or possibly 7:64. The important point is to make sure you do not weaken the brass tube but also be sufficient to allow the chain to pass through. I suggest you buy some chain then use the smallest drill that allows the chain to pass through. I suggest you look at www.eileensemporium.com/ as they supply brass tube at reasonable prices and different thicknesses. I bought my chain from SHG http://www.shgmodels.com/. Download the catalogue and look at page 25. Good luck with the build Dave

solent lifeboat stanchions by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Dave what size drill bit do you use for the holes in the stanchions for the chain to go true ? thanks for ur help cliff many thanks cliff

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave