Good progress on superstructure so far. base coat orange applied, anti-dazzel black applied. have started the weathering process on the doors hatches ect and applied the lettering. Not sure how acurate the applied lettering acuracy is, but I am happy with it. I have monday and tuesday off work (Sunday I am being tasked in the garden!) so plan on building, painting and adding the wiper blocks and wipers, all handrails, stanchions, lighting, horn, searchlight, twin antennas, all roof wire work, lifebelt, RNLI Flag and pole, motor for radar and grapple poles. Once all thats added, the whole superstructure less the anti-dazzle panels will get a couple of coats of gloss laquer before I pop in the glazing. Plan is to finish the superstructure completly before moving back to the hull.
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun
Hi Skydive I use a couple of Bhuler motors in my Solent so the 600 should be OK with your setup. The Solent was not a fast boat with a max speed of about 10 knots. You will need the battery for ballast. I have a whole series of pics of my model during restoration that I will share over dropbox if you wish. Just send me a pm with your e-mail. My stanchions were about 2" if I remember correctly. Looking good Dave
Here are some shots of the main plan and the proposed electronics going into my Solent. My only issue is whether my choice of motors is suitable? I've gone with 2 x 600 brushed motors on 15 inch shafts and 45mm brass props which I purchased before reading the article in Septembers model boats mag. The author in that has gone with 2 x 850's? With my aircraft experience, it's strange going "backwards" with brushed motors instead of the aircraft industry standard of using brushless motors, esc's and lipo battery's! And to cap it all, I've not go any aircraft that could possibly drag let alone lift the 12v 7amp lead acid battery that I've bought for this boat! Any thoughts on motor choice would be appreciated, apart from that I'm good with the electrics. The Mtroniks sound board and speaker is a blast using the Napier diesel sound chip. Another shot shows some of the decor going on, i.e. RNLI decals, numbering for "Douglas Currie", portholes, anchor, handrail stanchions. Other decor, doors, bollards etc coming from Macs soon. Last show shows the finished working radar built from scrap and painted in VW brilliant orange which I believe is a recognised match. One last question, can someone please give me an approx size for the 3mm main deck stanchions which I will fashion from brass tube and soldered eyelets, rope thickness would be helpful too, many thanks
Hi Norm, seems ya pays yer money and takes yer choice! Some were recessed, some not. In the early days they were stuck up on stanchions for the landings. Later leaf springs were set into the deck. See attached pics. #1 HMS Furious 1930. Here is a (long🤔) link where you can find many pics of carrier arrester systems and crash barriers. The barriers were raised on stanchions and let into the deck when not needed. https://www.google.de/search?q=Aircraft+Carrier+Arrestor+Cab... Cheers Doug 😎
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.
And by today's post I receive a small Jiffy bag full of goodies!! What a service, from the IoM too! ModellingTimbers:- http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/ Everything I asked for, rigging cord to die for, Japanese rigging shears, a scale model galvanised bucket kit with photo-etched detail(!!!) and the most beautiful stanchions. 2 ball for my scale, but no matter, they will look superb on "Vanity" with a bit of cable run through the balls. And the cheapest brass strip I have ever seen (for deck trim, once plated, on classic speedboat models). I repeat my warning that anything you require, I would get now, as he may run out and several lines will not be repeated, at any price. Martin
and in the adjacent handicraft section you can find things like reels of inexpensive and fine silver and brass wire, like I used for the 'balcony' on my U26 👍 soldering needs cleaning up I know! Or stainless steel cable as I used for the handrails just visible at the bottom of the picture 😎 Stanchions are split-pins 😉
Hi i need some help on hand rail and stanchions the measurement how far in from the side of the superstructure all so between stanchions and the full length of the hand rail front and back of the of superstructure. many thanks cliff
Thought I would have ago at the fittings for the booms. The bands around the mast made as before ( bore a bar to fit & part off). Solder a lug on place on a mandrill together & drill pivot hole, so they are the same. The barrel, drill down the centre of a 3/16th rod to fit a 3/32 rod. Solder on a lug wile soldering the rods together. Notice the small rod protrudes farther out at the bottom. This is so as I take the tension of the sail the top can pull out freeing the barrel, allowing the sail to be rolled around the boom. The lug is drilled 10BA clearance. The rod in the centre of the boom is turned from hexagon bar, a saw cut down the centre of the remaining hexagon. Drilled & tap 10BA & clearance one side. Now looking in my old gears, thinking of a size to make the reefing drum a stroke of luck. I found the wheels from a correction tape dispenser just the job. Made the stanchions in the 4 jaw. A jig to get the holes the correct distance from the out side of the hull. As the hull planks are 3" & the bulwark planks only 1" the do not run up flush as nearly all models show.
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.