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>> Home > Tags > stanchions

stanchions
stanchions
deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
On to the railings. I am using striped electrical wire. Free & easy to solder, and different sizes. The only drawback it is a little soft. The hardest job is getting it straight. This is done in vice & between fingers.( fingers not in vice) I also flatten the stanchions where rails cross. The long silver is the flagstaff at the bow, half way along the section being made. Held in a jig to solder, saw cut hold stanchions & nails stretch rails. The tape was to hold rails against stanchions. This was not needed as I pushed them down with a screwdriver as I removed the soldering iron.

Detailing continues! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
It’s been a while since I did some work on the Waveney! ive been busy with courses to get ready for Civvie street and have had a sideways step with some aeromodelling. Anyway, have pressed on this week with the decks being finished and painted. all deck fittings scratch built, stanchions fitted and a crew figure painted and fitted. Today has seen the start of modifying the cabin to make it look like the UK version of the coast guard ship. The cabin rear end has had lots or pieces of ply and balsa fettled to make an enclosed cabin. the finishing touch will be a roll up vinyl rear cabin door which was a scrap piece of orange fake leather sourced of ebay for 99p! i had the model in the wifes hot tub to see where the balance was and it looks like its going to need about 2 kg of lead ballast in various places inside the hull to get a good sit on the water line.

Robbe Smaragd by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Have not found your boat images yet................ With mine I am most concerned about the 'weak' stanchions, the fishing line rails and lack of any 'proper' windows/portholes. I will dig out some images and post them up. Re the RAF 'Tender'. Well wished on me in a way. More of that model on another bit of the site. All the best. NPJ

Vickers Vedette 1/96 scale by f4u7 Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Scratch built from a 1975 free plan, hull is balsa frames sheeted with basswood and covered with 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth, superstructure is styrene sheet, missile launcher from balsa block, forward bofors torpedo launcher from styrene sheet and wood dowl, photo etch ladders, white metal handrail stanchions, other fittings are brass and resin, lw-02 radar and directors are from shape ways rudders and stabilizers are balsa block, you get the idea.

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Ed, send me a sketch of the running light and deck light circuits; i.e. how many circuits with how many lights (LEDS) in each, and the voltage they should run off, and I'll work out the dropping resistor values for you.👍 Your doors remind me of the ones I made for my destroyer, but mine are only about 5 cents tall (ca 2cm) at 1/72. Stanchions are 15mm, with brass wire supports soldered on to every second one, all the way round a 1.35m deck plus gun decks 😲 Didn't even want to SEE brass wire for months after that! Cheers Doug 😎

Rear Cabin construction by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
today has seen the rear deck and cabin constructed. I lined the deck piece with some mahogany strip for a neater finish on the edge of the crapy liteply. Construction of the cabin was straight forward, this was followed by shaping, sanding, filling any gaps and a couple of coats of sanding sealer ready for paint. I have also added the railings and stanchions to the roof of the cabin as a start to the detailing to come. I have ordered a book from Amazon which is a reference book of the Waveney Class lifeboats, so hopefully there will be ample photos for the detailing I hope to add as we go on!

Billings Sea King by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 7 months ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Elke stripped down, cleaned and base colours flatted. Hopefully, on the water in about a month. I read somewhere that she, originally, had a 300 motor and with a narrow propshaft gap I am down to a 2mm propshaft, 4mm OD. Looking in my motor box I have a 300 motor with 2:1 gearing set up. Actually fits perfectly as the propshaft has to be low to the keel. I plan to use a 30mm 3 blade propeller, because I have one in my box, and hope, that even though it is slightly big for the motor which is 25mm diameter, I will escape any undesirable consequences. Noticeably, the stanchions and safety ropes only run along one side of the deck. I assume that this is to facilitate nets being brought in on the open side?

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

How do I make Bow Railings by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
HI Grandpa, If you mean the entire pulpit railing from cabin to the bow and round. First measure the deck, marking where each upright will be, the uprights seem to be the same height, so that part is easy, source some 16g welding rod, (stainless will be to difficult to braze) then shape to the size of the deck, try to keep the bends smooth as it may kink. Second. Get a scrap board bit bigger than your deck, mark each stanchion position and drill holes to match, stand the stanchions in the holes and start to lay the top rail silver solder for strength each stanchion as you get to it, might be easier to work side to side towards the bow, this will stop you burning your fingers!!!! To finish you could have the rails chromed or use a chrome spray paint, can't tell if the rails have feet (small washers) if so add these over the stanchions before you solder the top rail, they will stop them going too deep into the deck, finally drill and glue the railing into the deck, a sod of a job but the look will enhance your model Hope this helps Mark

wheelhouse by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
So whilst the hull saga continues ,thought I would do some work on the wheelhouse deck funnels are the tube that gas welding rods come in ,3D printed the vent cowls long live thingyverse ,the rails are 1.6mild steel gas welding rod and the stanchions 20mm x1.6mm split pins soldered at the joints ,the only colour mentioned in the book was yellow funnels so went for a subtle matt shade rather than bright gloss used the same colour for the vents

Billings Sea King refit by Wingcoax Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 months ago
Unfortunately the stanchions suffered when the boat was "drowned" in Waste water in the flood and several have broken so will have to replace.

Billings Sea King refit by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
Hi Wingcoax, I found my stanchions and rails at http://www.modelboatbits.com/ . They were good to deal with and delivered in a couple of days. I spent half an hour on my knees at the boot sale where I bought my Sea King searching through 3 boxes and found most of my external fittings. I will have a look on line to see if I can find a supplier for you. You will be surprised how well the existing stanchions look when gently redressed with a multi tool wire spindle.

Moving along towards finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
After beck paint dried overnight, spent an hour painting the deck boards before alit of masking followed by spray painting the bulwarks. I have installed the stanchions. Tomorrow will see any areas of touching up required (tip- if using rattlecans, gently spray some into the cap which can then be used for touch ups, clean brush using cellulose thinners) and then final coats of laquer. After all this it will be on with the final fittingbif rope work and s few other bits n bobs