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>> Home > Tags > stanchions

1/12scale SPEEDLINE Trent lifeboat kit by modeltugman Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £600. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.

Upper deck details by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Dave, No I didn't make the scale 1/78th brass Stanchions. They are available from Billings Boats.

Upper deck details by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
I used to hate doing stanchions and railings. Do you use a jig to make the stanchions?

Upper deck details by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
More work on hand rails, rail stanchions and radar mast. Next on list will be the rails to the stanchions and hand rails to the cabin Eye bolts. Wheel house roof will be removable and will incorporate working LED lights.

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Guys. Progress with my Cygnus Crabber is slow but positive. I am using the old "measure twice cut once" approach to every aspect of the build and picking as many brains and taking valuable advice from people, such as your good selves, as I can ! This is one such occasion. I am fast approaching the task of soldering, which I have never done before. I am making all the steelwork of the boat, i.e. stanchions, shooting bar, 'A' frame and railings out of brass tube and rod. I have made up a wooden jig to pattern the railings and 'A' frame. I have bought enough brass to afford me some extra for "dummy runs". Now when it come to the actual soldering I see on the market is some solder paste (solder and flux mixed) called "Plumbers Mate", I've watched a couple of videos using this product and it seems as though it would suit a novice like me. The thickest rod I am using is 2mm. Do you think this product suitable and do you have any other views please ? Yours studiously !😉

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Cliff I believe it would have been 3:32 or possibly 7:64. The important point is to make sure you do not weaken the brass tube but also be sufficient to allow the chain to pass through. I suggest you buy some chain then use the smallest drill that allows the chain to pass through. I suggest you look at as they supply brass tube at reasonable prices and different thicknesses. I bought my chain from SHG Download the catalogue and look at page 25. Good luck with the build Dave

solent lifeboat stanchions by Mataroa Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave what size drill bit do you use for the holes in the stanchions for the chain to go true ? thanks for ur help cliff many thanks cliff

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave

solent lifeboat stanchions by Mataroa Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi can anyone tell what height and width of the stanchions on 1/12 solent lifeboat and how many or ther ? many thanks cliff

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by namron Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Only too pleased to help anytime

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
I am a novice so its very helpful to me, thanks.

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by namron Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Thank you, I intend to make all the bollards etc on the boat and will post them as I do, and hopefully it will be of use to someone.

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Nice job.

1:12 scale Arun lifeboat (Hand rail stanchions) Part one. by namron Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi everyone, this is my first venture into the realms of writing an article so please be patient. I have swapped from gas boats to scale boats about 3 years ago and am enjoying the new challenge. I joined a club and there is a wealth of knowledge to be had and gracefully shared by my new friends, however one of my biggest problems is I like big boats! I have just finished a 1.12 scale Waveney and have already purchased a 1.12 scale Arun to build over the next year or so. I have searched the Internet and all model outlets known to man to find good quality hand rail stations at 1:12 scale (not white metal!!) and can't find any! SO.....I decided to make my own and this is how I've made them! Using a white metal 1:12 stanchion as a guide for spacing etc; I purchased a couple of metres of 3mm brass tube, and 100 brass beads 5mm dia (from a great shop called tackle bits 2010 on ebay) I made a jig to cut the tube to size (pic 1) and then made several assembly jigs until I settled on this one (pic 2) It's simple to make using 1mm rod and a block of aluminium. Start by putting a bead on each rod and then putting the cut length of tube in between (pic 3) you can slide all the pieces to make sure they are in line, then apply flux to the joints that are to be soldered and heat with a flame and solder, that's it! As simple as that. Allow to cool and slide off the jig , Polish with wire wool and you're done (pic4) The principle can obviously be applied to different scales making life easier for those of you wanting something better than is available through the shops. Will hopefully post more as the project progresses. Thanks .

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Removed all the internal components and wiring, then painted the inside of the hull with a light grey paint. The upper hull was sheathed with 1mm ply from the spray rail to the deck. The construction adhesive used to reinforce the bottom sheathing worked so well, used it entirely on the upper. Applied a generous amount to the faying surfaces, then squeezed the excess out and smoothed it into a fillet shape. The forward hull sheathing was left oversize as the drawings show the hull side contours extend up beyond the deck to become plated bulwarks. Once the upper hull sheathing was complete, fitted a series of brass rod stanchions to the foredeck to support both the upper hull sheathing and a section of styrene used to extend this sheathing up to the top of the plated bulwark, as shown in pictures. Have found the stanchions idea helps when butting one thin sheet to another as it reinforces the joint. After the adhesive had cured, the plated bulwark upper edge was gently filed to the correct contour and size. The hull sheathing was covered in glass fibre cloth and resin, which was lipped over the bulwarks and then carried down the inside face to deck level. This adds immeasurably to the stiffness and robustness of the bulwarks. Have always thought hard chine hulls would be easier to make than round bilge ones. This one has proved the opposite, perhaps the raised bulwarks, operable sterngate, RIB well and chine rails have added to the complexity and account for the challenges experienced. The hull has now been covered in glass fibre cloth and resin with the interior painted. This was an opportune time to fit everything and check operation before the rubbing down and finishing was started. Any further modifications could thus be completed without damaging the finished model. All the components were refitted and the operation rechecked.