I am after some information on the ELCO 80ft 103 class, I have gathered conflicting data on the positon of the three rudders relative to the propeller shafts. Some say inline, others say outboard of shafts. Port and starboard shafts of early examples were set 47inches from the centre line (keel). The Italeri plastic kit shows them in line. I have seen pictures of a latter boats were the rudders are not directly behind the propellers but not sure about early boats like the 103 class.
If the boat has 2 rudders I usually install the props-clockwise on the starboard side and counter clockwise on the port side. If the boat has a single rudder-clockwise on port and counter clockwise on starboard.I find it produces better control when you reverse.
Evenin' Neville, Yes go for 3 blade cast (not soldered) brass props, one LH, one RH. Jury is still out on which should be port and which starboard😉 Size I'm not sure of, my 28" twin shaft PTB has 35mm props, which I may reduce depending on the sea trial results, so I'd guess your 44" boat may need something larger, perhaps 40-42mm? Hope the drivers of larger Fireboats and such pick this up and can advise! All the best, Doug 😎
After some calculations I find I need to extend the reinforcing for the port & starboard shafts forward towards the bow. Created some wooden guides when drilling the prop-shaft holes and glued them in position temporarily, as you make expect the drill needs to be rather long, so I made one out of an old brass shaft basically sharpening it so it could cut wood. Next job will be to cut out for integrated shaft support brackets (2mm wide and minimum of 35mm long slot) and the tube shafts are 8.5mm in diameter.
Hi CB, Looks pretty good so far👍 Attached some pics of a restored ELCO 80 at Battleship Cove USA. Showing the props and rudders; Port, Centre, Starboard. If you need any more detail pics just let me know😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
I didn't want to have to reach into the boat. To turn on the running lights. So I put push button switches under the skylight! I figure one switch for port/starboard. And one for the forward main deck light and steaming ahead light!
Thanks, Doug. I really like the idea of simply using the exact same white LED for everything, including all of the colored LEDs currently on the boat. Coloring each LED the appropriate colors is the ideal solution. Glass lacquer is a great idea, plus Tamiya makes a translucent or semi-opaque acrylic paint available in many colors. Paints are ideal because I can control the depth of color simply by applying more coats. Another plus is that I can replace the somewhat cheesy looking port & starboard sidelights with more realistic ones. I like it! Will you please rework things as necessary to account for white LEDs as I’ve described? Things are coming together beautifully. Thanks, Pete
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
Spotlight is now completed! I have to solder the port & Starboard Lights! Anyway that's a small project on it's own! Unlike Serenity the Brooklyn isn't going to have a working spotlight! It's not in the budget!😲
Yes, the fire stations are now completed! I was procrastinating cos I knew. It would be a pain putting the hoses together! I did everything to keep my fingers. From getting glued together in the process. There are four fire stations. 2 port side 2 Starboard side far and aft! Next thing to do. Is glue the forward ladder in place! But, I think I'll wait on that. I don't won't to snap it off while working on her!
Thank you, O Great & Mighty Helpful One (AKA Doug). My doctor prescribed eye drops for me yesterday afternoon so the torture should be over soon. I looked at your spreadsheets & everything looks fine to me. 👍 By the way, I’ve been reading up on LEDs during our correspondence. One thing I learned that surprised me is that LEDs require different supply voltage depending on their color. Silly me thought that different colors were made by simply tinting a clear LED. But it’s confusing to me because the LEDs used for the port & starboard sidelights on my tug are actually are red & green in color, not clear, when they’re turned off. However, the aft deck lights are clear as water when off but yellow when turned on. According to various web articles I’ve read Hobby Engine was after the yellowish color of halogen lights, which they’ve done really well. Why are some LEDs clear when turned off but change to a color when turned on, as opposed to LEDs that are their given whether off or on?
Hi, Doug: Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake. Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house. This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires. The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump. What do you think? If you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense. Or am I AWOL from reality...again? Thanks, Pete
I've painted the portside. Now to do the Starboard side! Then, I'm done with the windows! Of everything I've done of the Brooklyn. The windows were the most challenging of all...…. Oh, As I paint each window. I then remove the tape I had place to protect the windows then selves! Luckily the windows are 10mm wide. So, I ordered 10mm wide masking tape! It worked like a charm. I think Doug, RNinMunich did a recommendation on using the tape. Thanks Doug!👍
As well as the nav lights there is a white running light and blue flashing beacon on the mast as well as a white stern light. At the forward end of the wheel house there a total of 6 deck lights. 2 in the deck itself, 2 facing forward on the lower front wheel house and 1 each on the port and starboard side.
Amazing what miniature washers and push pins. Can be turned into fire hydrants! The Brooklyn has four of them 2 port 2 starboard! your also suppose to use a plastic bead. But drilling the beads proved futile. As they would brake in half!