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>> Home > Tags > steam

paddle steamer
steam boat
steam chamber
steam tug
HMCS Agassiz by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Beautiful work, I have not seen such a good ship for a long time, and all the same on steam propulsion. Such a job will delight the eye of every model.👍

New to the game by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Marky I have the Deans 4' glass fibre hull steam picket boat, uses either electric or a Miranda Twin oscillator steam plant. Mine is the gunboat version as against the Admirals barge, but all capital ships of the period have several picket boats so you have a wide choice. The bands on the funnel signified the boat number 2 bands, boat 2 etc. Good luck wth the builds Dave

New to the game by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Nice choice 👍 Will you steam power it? cheers Doug 😎

Arran Glasgow. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Scratchbuilder Welcome to the site. Clearly a Scottish inter island steamer. If you look at you sill see that : "The previous Arran of 1933 was renamed Kildonan, to release the name - she was scrapped on arrival of MV Glen Sannox in 1957". Its possible the original builder based your model on this vessel (scrapped in 1957) and that could be a pic of the original you have posted. The Basset-Lowke motor is clearly of some age and value should you wish to replace it with a new motor. There are lots of links on Google to this subject and hopefully you will be able to find more pics as you research. Good hunting Dave

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by Westquay Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Oh dear, you don't. I suspect I'll have to find out what BA they are and send you some. Unless you know what size it is, in which case I can recommend a company called BA Nuts and bolts I just got some 9BA nuts, bolts and a tap from them to suit the 1/16th" pivots I've made for the Vanity model. If youever wondered what used the odd number BAthreads, it's Meccano (3BA), Stuart Turner steam engines(7BA) and anything with a nice round 1/16th" (9BA). I have taps and dies for them all now! Do you mean to say that she doesn't have a growl when running. Maybe it's just the bigger ones. Martin

TANWEN by lesliebreame Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Tony Birds TANWEN paddle steamer at Tilford this year. Les Breame

Miss Geico 29" by lesliebreame Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
i know what you mean about speed and i am always trying to get more from my steam boats!!! they are very slow compared with your petrol and brushless jobs but my aim is for more speed .i am working on steam turbines at present which are very inefficient and not that powerful but the intention is eventually for more speed !! you want to try coal fired boiler boats [ i make my own ] . there is much to do pondside what with stoking and water filling and oiling and all and i get loads of fun ..... much more than sailing my old electric crash tender which was fun to build but boring to sail . les breame

"Vanity" leaves the building board by Westquay Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
This one is (for you furriners) 80mm long by 50 wide. This is the tiddler between the roundhouse/tiller area and the companion aft. Then there's a bigger one forward of the companion and then a forward companion forward of the mast. Mast bitts, Samson posts for the bowsprit and prism bricks in the deck. Fortunately Vanity's deck was laid a la workboat, all planks parallel unlike most yachts. I shall pay for that simplicity when I deck Bloodhound. That has swept decks with mitred toeboards round every item of deck furniture, joggled into a King plank fore and aft and the main companion is shell topped, requiring steamed, tapered planks all the way across, but I tend to like the fiddly bits. The finish on that is cellulose sanding sealer. When the other light is done I'll varnish it all very thinly. Cheers, Martin

Scale Sailing Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Now I'll tell you what's really satisfying....planing the edge of a plank till it just slides right along where it should and locks up in exactly the right place with a resounding thunk. Just had that with tomorrow's plank. I wish the damned glue would set quicker, then it would be later today's plank, but there's always something else to do. I also tried steaming a plank to get some twist in it at one end. I judged the curve to be more or less coffee tin, fired up the kettle and held the end of the plank in the spout. Even though it's one of those turny offy types, leaving the plank end in the still steaming spout until too hot to hold (gardening gloves useful) did the trick. The 1/8th" thick, inch wide Cuban Mahogany went like chewing gum and took on the curvature of the coffee tin till cold, at which point it was glued straight in. Shed locked so I can't fiddle with it (I am a terrible poker of things not yet ready to be poked). The great epoxy event beckons ever closer. Martin

Scale Sailing Association by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
There's also something very satisfying with a destroyer steaming by, smoke pouring from her funnels, making 'whoop-whoop-whoop, flashing light signals and training her guns on the audience. But then I'm not impartial either 😉😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 20 days ago
Can't really add much to what Doug has said as he's covered the ground pretty well. I don't ever use paint stripper these days. I once used it to remove factory paint from a Matchbox toy when I was making a series of "Code 3" modified steam lorries. Very oddly the paint strippered ones refused to dry when sprayed with cellulose paint (yes, it was available then no probs.) If I sprayed over the factory paint it dried in minutes as cellulose will do. I hadn't had the problem before, but I certainly got it this time and I haven't wanted to use it since. On wood anyway, I wouldn't use anything liquid as it could always soak in and do who knows what damage. I would scrape the finish on your wood , but make sure you have read up on how to sharpen a cabinet scraper. The shiny ones are pigs to sharpen because they are stainless and you cannot get an edge on stainless. The best knives are NT stainless. As an ex clay modeller for the car industry, I can assure you that all slicks, which we called the thin flat scrapers, were spring steel. They had a nice gun blue finish, but would go rusty if you didn't look after them between contracts. Because you really need two hands to properly control a scraper you'll need to find a good way to hold the boat, but a sweet little job like that Sea Hornet will sit twixt your knees. Because you have all those fractures in a vertical way along the grain, keep your scraper in a diagonal way or it will pick up wood grain and damage the model. It may work if you work down the grain, perpendicular to the deck, so you are crossing the fissures in the varnish. I would suggest that if you want a varnish finish you will need to go over the wood with epoxy and possibly a light weight (1oz.) glass cloth. This will stop any tendency to split again. Surprisingly it does allow the grain to show still and after you have flattened the epoxy, you can then apply 2 or 3 coats, rubbed down in between as Doug says with a very fine paper, of a spar varnish. I have a no name tin which I am using on general stuff, from garden items to the spars of my "Vanity" model. When I did a model of a Rive Aquarama Special, I used an International Spar Varnish which has a slightly golden tinge. Now, the hard part. No boat I can ever think of had wood in a vertical lay on the hull. Ecen double or Riva's triple layer was diagonal, finishing with incredibly well selected horizontal layers. The Sea Hornet would be improved no end, I am sure with a layer of horizontal nature. What passes for mahogany these days is horrible stuff (and I would say that on your boat could even be teak, which should never be varnished), so I always used Steamed pear veneer, which has no figure and a very close grain. Sanding sealer, then stain with you idea of mahogany(from an orangey colour to a rich reddy brown), then spar varnish. DO NOT stain the wood/veneer, always stain the first coats of finish. Riva do that too! I want to know what makes you say the mahogany is the only stuff on the hull. The Sea Hornet has 1/16th" ply skins like all Aerokits, so why not yours? Personally, I think it would look best if you painted the hull and spent your efforts on doing a nice laid deck in Pear veneer and caulking. A gloss black hull and a laid, varnished deck look very tasty, like a Greavette gent's Racer. Pic attached. Cheers, Martin

Help required please. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
and good luck with the ammonia! Steaming over the kettle works as well, and don't stink. 😎

William by Yax Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 25 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 36"/7000g William Capable of 1mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive - Comments: Scratch built steam plant and boiler in a commercial hull electronic ignition on a gas fired system.

Planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework 🤔 To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-) Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building 😉 Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white woodworking glue without problems. It gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows 😉 glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern). The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short 😭 Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience 😎 These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!? Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like. Cheers from Munich 😎

Sweet Sue by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John. Go to video gallery. Click on. Scroll through the first page and you will come across 3 videos of Sweet Sue Steam launch. The first one is a test run up out of the water. The next 2 videos are taken at Kowhai Park. I've just checked all 3 and they are displaying. If you still have trouble Google up you tube and search for Sweet Sue Steam launch. They're in there too. Cheers Kevin