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My memory is kicking in, now. My first little steamer was a "Putt-Putt Boat," NOT a "Pop-Pop" boat. These had a little boiler over a candle or a heat tab that directed the steam out a little underwater pipe in the back of the boat. The boiler would make a "putt-putt" sound, which gave them there name. The one I have now is a tinplate reproduction toy. It is designed to run like the old ones did -- I just haven't done it yet. I have also seen a larger one of these in a 1940s book like "The Boy Mechanic," where copper tubing was used for the "boiler." The two ends of the tubing were directed aft at a shallow angle, just like stuffing boxes, and the middle of the tubing was would in a coil with three to four turns and supported so that a can of "canned heat," used for keeping chafing dishes hot, could be inserted under the coil to generate the steam. If I recall correctly, the two ends (steam pipes) have to be bent so they are both a little higher than the bottom of the coil to avoid having all the water drain out immediately. If I find that book I will post any drawings they have.
Good Morning, Gary: (It's Morning somewhere!) I have been interested in steam for a considerable time, and even have an article stashed away on making a turbine for a model of the SS Savannah, which is, after all, a steamship with a nuclear powered boiler. My own work has been limited (mostly by budget) to the Midwest Models single cylinder steam engine, and I have a "Fantail Launch" kit ready for some upgrades and installation of the steam engine. Stay with us, as I am sure, as already stated by others, that there are interested members of the forum, and you will pick up more when they see you are not just talking about a little pop-pop boat running in circles. (I do have one of those, as well. I had one when I was much younger, but it is little more than a memory these days.)
Hi Russell I assume that you are referring to bending the stringers and skins? There's no need to be worried, the ply skins respond very well to heating with a hot air gun (electric paint stripper) and the obeche stringers, if well steamed, bend fairly easily too. Scratch that itch and buy the kit, you won't regret it. Robbob.😁
Not suggesting Doug dosn't give good advice or is nothing other than a skilled builder, but the way that post was written came across to me as I described. Is it such a problem if my boat wont run for more than 10 minuets at full steam, come on man how often do you imagine that scenario evolves, most of the time is spent gently cruising around the pond with the occasional full throttle run to wake up the old farts. Tut Tut such disgraceful behaviour.
Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎
Hurray!! Located and received some plan scans for the "JR More" tug from an ex South African now living in the UK! Delighted! Apart from a few misaligned scans that loose some pretty important info for the stern, I have a lot to work from. The "JR" was built by Ferguson Brothers, Glasgow in 1961. 176.3ft LOA, displacement 1654.94 tonnes. She was the last oil fired steam tug in service in any South African port. Decommissioned in 1982. Now a poorly maintained (no money!) exhibit in the Durban Maritime Museum.
Before I can apply the final coats of epoxy on the hull I need to fit the two rubbing strakes. I started with the bottom rubbing strake which runs along the chine where the side skins and bottom skins meet. The strakes meet the external keel at the bow and also extend across the stern. I used a length of square section of obeche which needed a gentle curve towards the bow, rather than steam the wood I soaked it in water for a few minutes to soften it and then used a heat gun while bending the strip gently to the required curve. When the wood had cooled and dried the bend was set I did a test fit and drilled very fine holes through the strip so that the modelling pins I use to hold the piece in place would not split the wood. A 30 minute epoxy was used to fit the strakes on both sides of the hull and stern. Above this bottom strake is a second rubbing strake and this also meets the keel at the bow and runs across the stern, I used a broader and thinner obeche strip for this and it was prepared and fixed in the same way. The final pieces to fit will be the gunwales which run around the hull where the sides meet the deck but I will not fit them until I have planked the deck.
Hi again! Have you tried contacting the Durban Model Boat Club? On their Facebook page they appear to have at least one model of an old SAR&H steam tug (not sure which one). They'd probably be able to assist with sourcing plans. Regards, Glyn
As I have made no progress on finding any drawings of the De Mist naval harbour tug ex Simonstown, and as kindly advised by Glyn as having been built by Dorbyl in Durban with VS propulsion, I am now switching my attention to the old steam tugs of the the late 50's and 60's...particularly the JR More (built 1961) that is currently decaying in the Durban Maritime Museum. Again I am on the hunt for drawings that must be more easily available judging by the number of models build of this vessel. She had twin props (rather than Voith Schneider or Schottel) which is something that I can handle! Any help or advice gratefully accepted.
hey everyone I hope you all had a great Christmas. Im just starting a new build and its the chieftian tug paddle steamer and I was wondering if anyone had any information about her or any where to get parts for her. Seems most model boat sites don't seem to have much to do with paddle steamers. Cheers guys
[Score: 5/10] 16" Steam Tug Challenge Single Propellor (3 Blade 45mm) Geared to a Ancient Mabuchi (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries Controlled Through Motroniks ESC - Comments: This little model was built to see how much my Parkinson's had affected my modelling abilities. Surprisingly little as it turned out but I cannot write legibly and find keyboards tricky too. It must be muscle-memory! The model is loosely based on Challenge and is built around a tug hull that I made as a boy I made in the sixties but with some modification. She is fully lit for night running. The crew figures are model railway lineside track gang models. They have been left in their modern high viz and helmets as the model is depicted as she is today operated in preservation as a Dunkirque little ship. She is equipped with 2 function R/C. She had a short maiden trial on the 29th December, which was very promising but was curtailed by a sloppy rudder.
A very nice looking and efficient steam engine, I have one which is similar made by Cheddar whether it is a Proteus or not I'm not sure, I bought it in an Edwardian Steam launch which to date has never been fired up as such. Regards.
[Score: 8/10] 36"/11900g Brooklyn Steam Tug Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 100mm) Geared to a 550 dc (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Tamar T15 (5Amps) ESC - Comments: I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA batteries provide ballast along with lead weight. Actual battery rating is 2 x24 = 24ah..... Gearing is from an older type model aircraft type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock.