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I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.
Confederation marine modellers will be hosting a display & model boat pool for Canada's 150 birthday here at Hamilton's Steam & Technology Museum . The museum has a working walking beam pump , live model steam engine rides , mecano displays
I've been building this Billings kit for some years now. [laid the keel in 2007 !!] but I'm slowly getting there. I've just recently joined this Website so not sure if this is the correct place to post some pictures of this build plus a yacht and steam launch. I'll start here anyway and no doubt someone will advise me for future postings.
This is a scratch built 1828 paddle steamer. A steam assisted schooner rig paddler. Pioneer of ocean steam Scale 1:60 Actual size of deck, 165 feet. The crest on the side represents the following. Martello Tower - Bexhill-on-sea Seahorses - Eastbourne Saxon Crown - East-Sussex. Ships of the same class 1821 James Watt 1825 Calpe 1832 Rhadamanthurs 1836 Unicorn 1837 Sirius The boat was built by Peter Allday some 20-plus years ago
Rewind…. When I first started my build blog I described my visit to the London Model Engineer exhibition in January 2016 and that my enthusiasm for model making was re-kindled. It was as a result of seeing a crash tender model on the Blackheath MPBC stand and getting into conversation with the owner of the boat. He went on to inform me that kits were still being made for them and he gave me the names of a couple of companies to look at. His valuable information led to some further research on the subject and finding various sites including this one which I immediately registered with, and I subsequently bought a Vintage Model Works 46" RAF crash tender kit and embarked on my rediscovered hobby. Fast forward…. I attended the same exhibition this January and was delighted to see the same chap on his club stand and I took the opportunity to remind him of our previous meeting and discussion and to thank him for his advice and recommendations. He looked at some of the photographs of my boat that I had on my camera and he was very complimentary on my building efforts. That chap is Phil Abbott, otherwise known to his friends as Steamboat Phil, and I would like to give him the credit for re-igniting my model making interest. Thanks Phil, I hope you are following and enjoying my build blog. Robbob
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark
Hi guys sorry if this is a newbie question but is it better to cover and epoxy my plank and frame hull or can I do as the instructions say and just seal fill and paint. Is the resin coating the only way to gets it really smooth.
Great to see a model of this Old girl , I got to spend a day on the real one as an organised trip with our boating club . Was well worth the time and money , absolutely fantastic seeing all the inner steam workings . Very well done
Hi. It only takes one to launch. the funel wheelhouse comes of in one piece and then it takes 5 pieces of lead 130x75x20 after you have put it in the water.then 1 of 12v batery 170x160x130. then two 6 volt baterys and a cast iron burner that burns coal for the smoke. the motor is a fan heater motor from a truck and turns a 130mm 4blade prop. would love to put it on steam one day. Keith.
Hi Steve. I've not heard about 'flexible beech' but it sounds like it's ideal if it is as malleable as you say. Certainly worth bearing in mind, could be the very thing that Vosper could use to avoid the steaming process ! Robbob.
Hi Vosper. The skins were formed using a heat gun mostly but the strakes were steamed in the tube. As I recall they must have been in the tube for about 15 to 20 minutes, they came out very wet but also very pliable. 😓
Hi Rob I am currently building a 1/24 scale Perkasa to which I have also fitted chine strakes. Too late for your build I know, but I have just discovered 'flexible beech'. It is extremely flexible and retains its shape when bent to the profile required - even in two different planes. No steaming required and I fixed it quite easily with cyano. Obtainable from JoTika and worth bearing in mind for future builds? Steve