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>> Home > Tags > steering servo

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Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks, Ian. I would only use the sail winch if there was enough puff to pull the string out, otherwise it would be rudder only. Well, I have wound on the braided string and set it so the tension is what I think is about right. Here's the set up, prior to installing in the boat. The receiving pulley is on a 6mm ballrace and the whole thing is in two layers of PTFE sheet and is made of redundant printer. The brass bits below the drum are holders for the steering snakes, complete with home made wing nuts. Rmbsecretarie's recommended stumpy Hitech steering servo gets the snakes out from under the winch drum. All has to be compact as I can only just get my fingers in there, having very small hands. Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks again, Doug. Am I correct in thinking that the circuit board in the pilot house is the only one on the boat? Does that one board include the receiver, speed control, sound & light functions & an output for the steering servo? For some reason I thought there was another board under the big hatch on the deck behind the pilot house. I haven’t been able to remove that hatch (yet) but I will. I want to familiarize myself with the entire boat, so I’ll have to get that hatch open. I thought it would pop up by pressing the square spring-loaded button but no luck. Later this morning I’ll pry it carefully with the same thin blade I used to get the pilot house roof off. I’m probably the only Hobby Engine tugboat owner on this site who hasn’t removed that hatch to see what’s inside. But that’ll change later today. Full speed ahead!

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin

Servo choice for yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Me again. I am finding the choice of servos mind-numbingly huge. I feel I should have a new steering servo for Vanity. I have a lot of other servos kicking around and I can only assume they work on a modern Orange Rx, but I'm thinking even a tight wad like me can justify a new servo. I would like it to be a bit lower than the Futaba I currently have out as it has to operate below the bottom of the winch drum and take two Bowden cables to the rudder as the rudder shaft is steeply raked, so only cable operation will do. Any suggestion welcome. I don't need speed or even especially accuracy, although reliability would be nice. 4.8volts too please. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

happy hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
the superconductor is coming on ok just using photos and adjusting the scale .I,ve used a snake for the steering as ther doen't seem to be enough room for a servo near to the rudders .I,ve found a small motor in my bits and fitted that to the bow thrusters.I,e had the radio connected to and everything seems to work ok so 'i've glued the deck in place .I need to put some strengtheners in the main cabin as it will need to support the mast assembly. I am stuggling to get the curved bits right for the bow and the front of the bridge but will get it right eventually

Bargain Tomkat by bilzin Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Somebody was either disillusioned with model boats or impecunious to the Nth degree because he let me have this BRAND NEW Ripmax Tomkat complete with Motor, ESC, brand new steering servo,action man driver,decals and instructions for a brownie with a bluey postage. Not my usual type of model but will make a fun change down at our 'postage stamp' lake (?)

Sidewinder by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 16"/600g Sidewinder Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Another of my Foam hulled, own designs using an own design Azipod thruster with B/L motor submerged and running in water. Steering by sail winch servo via geared pulleys, can rotate unit 360 degrees. Hope to put build write up in MB mag. Wierd model that turns in its own length and is powerful enough to clear the weeds on the pond (and break ice!)

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark

Stabilit Express by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne

Tug 'DHB Dauntless' by barnet Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty. The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth. the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props. Also fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver. Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"