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>> Home > Tags > stern

stern cover
Alooooominum solder, anyone tried it?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Well, it arrived today and I tried it out on a part that echos the corner shape I'd need to make on the Hornet stern deck. Here's a picture. It really was that easy! Unreservedly recommended! How nice to find a new material one can rely on. Martin

Alooooominum solder, anyone tried it?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi all, Needing to consider aluminium solder I looked it up and there seems to be something new around. It's only 300 degree C solder and fluxless. Cheapish too. I've ordered some and will report back. " 11" as they say. I'm thinking it could be ideal for the stern corners of the Hornet II model. My alternative was to make a press tool, which I didn't really want to get involved in. Apparently with this stuff you can even use a big soldering iron for smaller bits. The beauty of 300 C is there's no risk of melting the object being soldered and they claim there's no difference in hardness, elasticity, brittleness, etc, so clean up is easy, all objections to the original ally solder. I once used the original with complete success, then next time, complete failure. Maybe this new stuff will be the answer to a maiden's prayer, as my Dad would have said. Cheers, Martin

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Quite simple Martin, there's a chip inside the Tester which generates the same signal as comes out of a receiver. The pot on the top varies the signal just like the sticks on the TX do. Mr Karslake just didn't know how to do it. A 'stick-in-the-mud! Guess that was one customer who wasn't😡 Working models deserve lights like the originals. Even boats like your Hornet probably had at least a white stern lamp to prevent them gettin' rammed up the whatsit😲 Was only pullin' your chain a bit about the LED tester and RF detector anyway😁 Ciao, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
BTW Rooky, Re 'Loudhailer' not shown on drawing- Probably because there wasn't one there!😲 In the 6th pic you can see what looks like a stern light above the pennant number. Cheers, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by astromorg Seaman   Posted: 11 days ago
Interesting, valuable photos and drawings. More like that would be welcomed by many of us. As it would have been illegal not to have a stern light on vessels like these, for both normal passage and also when towing, perhaps that photo without one was during build before it was fitted? No draft marks either. The photo of 93 secured at Vospers (therefore probably before acceptance) shows the stern light while the early type fire monitors also show the date of the photo was early on. I also note one drawing shows the breach hose connectors aft of the cockpit that indicate it to be of later than original build. Similarly the cockpit roof cleats have been re-positioned athwartships rather than the original two being fore-and-aft. Considering their short operational life, it's surprising how many detail changes were made when all the available documentary evidence is studied! You'd think that after 60+ years all the answers would be known for sure by now!

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 If the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? It's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. If DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 It's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. It can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in Integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, frigates, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi All. I found the drawing I mentioned, if you look at the numbered items you'll see that No 72 is the navigation light and No 14 is the mast crutch. There was never a stern light on either boat according to the drawing although one appears on the stern of No 93 in one of the 'photos but not in the other dry dock 'photo....perhaps it was part of a re-fit during it's service life ? Also, the mast light is not numbered or described...but it is there.... I hope I've thrown some light on the subject........I'll get my coat..

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by astromorg Seaman   Posted: 11 days ago
I would suggest that the light at the top of the mast, while appearing to show all round may actually be masked internally to give the necessary visible angle of 112.5 degs either side of dead ahead. The stern light in the transom will give the 135 deg angle to fill in all round. The teardrop-like unit on the for'd cabin roof looks more like the style of radio direction finder used by the RAF on their aircraft - the one on top of a Wellington bomber is particularly obvious. A useful fitting for an RAF crash boat? Positioned as it is it could not give the required 225 deg beam if it was a steaming light. Normal position for a steaming light would be halfway up the mast at about the yard position, but aside from a small unlabelled bracket on the original masthead drawing, I can find no evidence of a light ever being photo'd there. Combination masthead lights for steaming or anchor are common enough today. Perhaps that was how it was?

LiPo batteries by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
That's the one! Even recognise the writing. Very Germanic. I can only find it on a Polish site, so it figures I should go to one of the several Polish shops in out local town (Wisbech) which is very much Eastern Europe in Fenland these days. Many thanks. Let's hope I can get some. It seems mad that I paid 3-50DM for it in Sauerlach back then which was about £1-50, a derisory sum. Now it's about 7 quid if my Polish-Pound sums are right, but it's still well worth it. I hate dry wines, like most French. I see no point in paying through the nose for what I wouldn't even put on my chips! My favourite day to day wine is a Spatleser, although Chateau de Lardilay from Cadillac is rather nice. Sorry if the spellings are awry. Thanks for the link! Martin

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Hello all. I have now returned to Hungary after 4 months. I left the batteries at a storage charge of 3.85v per cell. The reading now on both batteries is 3.85v on 3 cells and 3.86v on one. Strangely both batteries are exactly the same. Conclusion is that relatively new batteries hold their charge very well even if not used for months. I will keep checking them every visit. Unfortunately these batteries might not be used for a couple of years as I found that 2 4s 4500mAH units (using only one at a time with the other supplying balance in the water) were a bit too heavy for the boat and made it low in the water at the stern. I have replaced them with much smaller and lighter 1800mAH LiPo`s. We will see how long they last under load.🤓😉

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 4 by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Finished gluing in stringers a total of 8 in all, started profiling stringers and rudder and stern tube (prop shaft ) supports. An important piece of advice from my Dad is to "make sure every thing is fair to the eye." Meaning it must look straight or the curves must flow, no kinks or unsightly lines. Thus some of my frames had to be adjusted by perhaps padding out or moving the position of the stringer in the frame. Added gluing supports around the bulkheads and other frames this is to support the 0.7mm ply joints until I get to the Bow when I intend to use small strips of ply or wood.

Part1 research information by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 18 days ago
Deck From the construction hand book:- Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material. Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks. Planking 62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used. stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately. Prop shafts of real boat. All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat. propshaft angles are around 10 degrees. The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones. The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees. Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection. The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.

Aerokits MTB, what is it?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Martin and here extracts from the USN Bureau Of Ships Plans. Plus some painting inspiration😉 and cockpit and stern detail. Have fun, cheers Doug😎

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Neil, Looks like a somewhat simplified Range Safety Launch to me, the 43ft version from 1955 - , but the number is dead wrong. Scale between around 11 - 12 to 1. LoA - 11.7 Beam - 11.1! Twin props should ALWAYS turn in opposite directions to counteract the so called prop walk which otherwise shifts the stern sideways in the direction the props are turning - seen from behind when the boat is moving forward. the jury is still out on whether they should turn outwards or inwards; with respect to the top of the prop when going forwards and seen from behind. Separate motor control (so called 'Tank Steering') is great for slow speed manoeuvrability and very sharp turns at speed (to be used with caution!), but is not easy and needs a lot of practice! A twin ESC / Rudder Mixer is easier😉 For scale; 3 blade props. Suggest you start a new thread for this. Ciao, Doug 😎