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>> Home > Tags > stern

stern cover
Speed controls by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Well I'm damned! Checking my VR30 ESCs I found attached spec! Never noticed this offset in operation before, maybe because naval ships don't have much freeboard at the stern so I take it very easy anyway. You live and learn 😎But then that's what a forum is all about.👍 Sailing here today near impossible, only 3°C and sleet

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
First photo a hit & miss vent, cut to make gratings, painted streaky brown. This is not my idea, but its a good one. The hawser hole finished & the stern ready for filler & paint. Will finish hull paint before completing topgallant rail. Although I have a stand still using the pillow, as it makes a good pin cushion.

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
First the hand rail fitted then bottom plank on bulwarks, then chain plates. then the rest of the planks, Around the stern the planks are vertical. Started on the topgallant rail. Also made a vent for the engine room, from the handle of a milk container.

Counter Rotating Props by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
If they're turning inwards they (or better the water flow) 'meet' above the shafts, conversely: outwards = below the shafts where it disperses more easily, and probably also mostly below the rudder 🤔 Of course the hull form at the stern plays a major role. Which is why most modern fast naval vessels have a relatively flat hull at the stern if the only have one rudder. (Spent the last 31 years designing integrated COMMS systems for naval ships so have seen several such plans and GAs and many ships during the build.) With two rudders (1 per shaft) it's different. Classic example RN vs KM 1935/36 destroyers in WW2: RN 2 shafts 1 rudder; KM 2 shafts and 2 rudders. Giving them much better rudder response & manoeuvrability. Your comment re Contra is spot on 😉 Cheers from Munich.

Emily P by GrahamP74 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 24"/1500g Emily P - Comments: Scratch built from a wooden hull picked up on eBay for £35. Total spend on this project was £47. Based on an inshore stern trawler.

The servo mount. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I had originally made a platform and a servo mount out of ply to go in the stern compartment but I found that there was very little clearance left between the top of the servo and the underside of the cockpit deck and the arm and push-rod could foul on something, so I decided to scrap what I had made and invest in something a bit better engineered. I found quite a neat CNC machined aluminium mount on eBay that looked ideal and so I ordered one at a cost of just under £5 including delivery from China. I have not previously bought anything directly from a Chinese seller as I’d heard bad things about long delivery times and getting clobbered for import duty and such but I thought I’d risk it anyway. Surprisingly it arrived about 10 days later without extra costs and is quite well engineered. I decided to fix the servo mount to the bulkhead on some 15mm nylon PCB spacers with an internal 3mm tapped thread that I had in my electronics bits box. This was to allow the servo arm to move unrestricted over it’s travel arc. I used a servo tester to check the operation and it works a treat and looks a million times better that my original mount. I’ll probably replace the clevis attachments for a ball & socket type at a later stage.

the motor by analyst Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
this will be the motor to be used. Honda GP200 4HP 4 stroke gasoline motor. i opted to detach the gas tank so that i can lay it somewhere on the boat. i just modified the fuel line. i also remove the integrated kill switch(red latch) from the motor so that i can lay it somewhere on the boat. i will just find a way to attach a servo into it. maybe some modification on the switch will do the work. hopefully. i also removed the stock muffler, i need to fabricate a new muffler so that it blows on the stern(back) portion of the main hull.

stripping hull for repair and repaint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Thanks Dave, I applied my Black and Decker mouse detail sander to the hull, using only the weight of the sander. Turns out it has been epoxy coated, I have removed sufficient paint to see what is underneath it and there are 2 small areas where the wood is black and nasty. One consists of a few spots about half way between the bow and the stern, and mid way between the keel and the joint with the side skin, and the other is a line about 3 inches long and quarter inch wide running alongside the keel. The keel also seems to be poor on that side as well. What I really would like is a copy of the plans, so that I can see what I am dealing with. Nothing on E Bay! At the moment anyway. Chris

DAMEN STAN 4207 by Trillium Commander   Posted: 26 days ago
Those scratchbuilt railings, visible in the stern closeup, are very impressive.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 26 days ago
R.I.B completed, adding about another 1 oz to the vessel weight, also added the 4.5 oz as permanent ballast. Total model weight is now 156 oz. On review of many HMCC “Vigilant” pictures, note the top of the boot-topping can be almost coincident with the waterline. Decided the slight extra weight , beyond the 4.5 oz originally tried, will help raise the bow and have little effect on the stern draft, so left it as is. Sailed again in the portable pool and now consider the trim acceptable. The boot topping is visible for the full length of the hull; she sits very much like the full size vessel. Once the ice to leaves our local pond will see how well she performs in open water and what the run time will be. Have tried several approaches to making a R.I.B launch / recovery mechanism, but with little success. Seem to be able to either launch or recover using a single radio channel, but not both. Now decided to shelve this feature until inspiration strikes!

Big Blue by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Nice work so far, my Brother had a similar idea, re hatch sizes, but he scratched built boat hull in 4 watertight sections, held together with rods, pushed pushed down from deck and using computer leads for Bow thrusters/lighting/radar etc. With all sections in place it could a large tanker, remove one section it could convert to a coaster, using Bow and Stern it became a large tug, all superstructure could be placed in any position on deck,even bridge section could be altered, by sliding it back and forth, back for cargo /oiler, forward tug. All this he could do in minutes, so looked it looked like he'd brought a shed load of boats to the lake. :-)

Proboat Volere by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
I have proboat volere. It performs pretty well but, it makes a big bow wave and really doesn't get up and plane like I think it should. Has anyone performed any modifications? Bringing the voltage up by one cell o 9.6volts helps a little as does adding a little weight to the stern. Speed control is huge, and I know, can easily be replaced by a tiny mtroniks unit. Any other experience or ideas out there? 😁😁😁😁😜😜😜

iMBRA Western League Gonzaga by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Thanks Dave, I took a look, even with google translate it's hard to make it out! I was just being curious. I guess the URL is suppose to point to an award or trophy of some kind!

iMBRA Western League Gonzaga by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ed It's too long for the available message space. If you just use the first part up to the / it will take you to the site. Safer to navigate within the site than rely on links. It's in Italian so you may need to use a translation service, Google's works well. Dave

iMBRA Western League Gonzaga by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Whats wrong with the URL?