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>> Home > Tags > stern

stern
stern cover
stern
Emma C Berry Fishing Smack by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I was told by a boat yard, that the rudder placement was be far a stern with this type of rig. Where is it on this boat, your photos do not show the model out of the water.

Genesis 9000 by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I have brought the wiring home we with me. I will change the switch and take it back with me in August. I must admit that I thought the stern was a bit low in the water. To evenly distribute the weight, I put in two batteries as suggested. I will try to move the batteries forward to change the centre of gravity.😊

Finally a Waterline! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
I have used white pinstriping before.Plus I have used other colours too.Make sure to stick it down good.I first used my fingers then after the tape is on to my liking I used a burnishing stick.One thing I forgot to mention is start your tape at the halfway point on the stern then go around the bow and meet back at the stern.The pinstriping I have used is either the car striping or the one that is used for the model airplanes.

Winches by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Norm, as far as I can make out Dreadnought had the same steel chain 'runways'. All manufacturers versions of the model show them as well. Re: 14pdr AA guns. Some pics attached, including fwd turret. 1. Fwd turret 2. 'X' turret 3. Mid & Aft turret. 4. Stern view, Portsmouth dry dock 1916. Hope these help, cheers Doug 😎 PS: you might find this useful! From the 'Know Your Ship' series. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHYXyOzPYlo The model pic is from Trumpeter I think.

Good Read-The Boys in the Boat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
What a good read! If you can find it in a library as I did, you will enjoy it. I crewed in 1969, when I took these photos during a morning workout from the coach’s boat. Western Washington State College

boiler by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Funnel made from an old hospital walking stick. The aluminium at 1/8th thick, so I turned it down to 1/16th, leaving the rings. Fixed to the boiler at vertical with the correct rake astern. The photos don't give that impression. But it is all correct, honest.

ODIN by kimbo Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
[Score: 10/10] Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 95mm) Direct Drive to a Power 1000 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 12Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through electronize ESC - Comments: All, lights, smoke, sound, radar, stern winch, anchor, fire monitor all work

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a “feel” for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. If it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the “dry” propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. If it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

47" Fireboat power question by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Shaun, This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this. The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern. We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed. It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main. I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane. Have fun, best of luck. Ron Rees

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 25 days ago
Hello all have got some more of the rigging points completed and had to re-do the sail control line after dropping my snips onto the line and it caught the edge and nicked it so had to be replaced as no doubt would have snapped once under strain. The ships boat is coming on nicely , have got the stern planked now and have made a start on cleaning up the glue overspill and sanding it down before fitting the floor and seats . Once finished I will be painting the outside of the hull to match the main hull and varnishing the inside with a yacht varnish.

My Jayne by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Very similar to F1 Power Boat 1300GP260(Rainbow), http://www.fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=15485 Must be at least 5 years old as SWAMBC is defunct since 2013. 'South Western Association of Model Boat Clubs'. 😎

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Ships boat continued It's coming along now almost finished planking the sides just a couple of planks to fit and can then plank the stern. It's certainly been a learning curve doing my first clinker hull and at this size , there has been a few mistakes but that's modelling .

Any clues? by commodore Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
This is certainly NOThe the model of a Thames or Coastal barge hull The proportions are all wrong and it has a keel-a Thames/Coastal does not. Also the rudder is wrong for a Barge which .has the rudder hung from a stern post.

Perkasa by Lauriem Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
This is a 49" Perkasa built from a ply Precedent kit - the build blog is on this site. Videoed from a 46" Fireboat on a lake in Western Australia. Neither boat is running at top speed, which is spectacular but overscale! Both boats have identical brushless motors. Apologies for the video being a bit long, and for the water on the lens, but this is a first attempt and I hope you enjoy the music.