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>> Home > Tags > stern

stern cover
New Brace System by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
I've kept a log of this build on RCGroups forums since 2009. We share experiences, brainstorm ideas, and help each other out with a lot of the idiosyncrasies of RC square-rig sailing. A fellow there named Dan and I had a long running discussion on dealing with slack in the braces when there are prototypically mounted near the ends of the yards. This discussion led to the sliding winch. The winch servo, unaltered in any way, is mounted on Delrin blocks with holes through which pass a pair of brass rods. The winch can slide fore and aft on theses rods. A pair of aluminum angle hold the ends of the rods so the servo is off the deck and can move freely. A pair of spring are on the rods to provide tension by pushing against the winch. When the yard is square across the model, the servo is pressing on the spring(s). As the yard is turned, the spring pushes the winch back on the rods taking up any slack in the braces. I mounted everything on a pallet again, keeping it modular so I can get at things, and easily take them out if need be. While assembling it, one of the winches started acting strange. I replaced it with another one, which required, removing the winch drum screw and drum; unplugging the servo from the receiver; loosening 4 screws that hold the winch to the slide-blocks; then do all that in reverse to put in the new winch. I also got Servo-Stretchers that increase the the sail-arm servo's range from 90° to 180° and allow adjustment of the center position. You'll notice two servo-trays in the pictures; the other one is for the Macedonian frigate model. As the year went on, I installed bumpkins for and aft. Got some gold dry-transfer lettering and put her name on her stern. Made t'gallant/royal masts.Made a servo arm for the rudder servo that had cleats to allow steering cable adjustment. And installed fairleads for the running rigging below. All things that had to get done in order to put the spardeck on.

Changes in latitudes by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
After the sail I tried to figure out how to make the chain plates. The links below the channel are easy enough, but the doubled rod strap that wraps the deadeye was (and is) giving me headaches. I was originally going to bolt the chainplates to the hull, but instead I intend to use round-headed brass wood screws, and I've installed oak strips inside the hull to give them something to bite into. You may recall I'm modeling the ship as she was new, when her portrait was painted in 1856. There's nearly nothing showing what her stern looked like but one etching done of her in dry-dock in Boston in 1859 when she returned from her first cruise. Several painting of her contemporaries show very similar stern ornamentation. I already had the moldings applied based on the drydock drawing, now I made the three rosettes she still carries today - her "constellation of stars." My first attempt was too think and bulky, so I started fresh with a bit of boxwood, and used styrene to apply details. Once done, it got a coat of primer and then I pressed it into clay to make molds for the casting resin. If I had a "Constellation Restaurant" my butter pads would all be molded like this :) Checking into the fashion of the day for depicting stars and things astronomical, I painted the stars gold on a royal blue background. They were then epoxied to the hull and quarter galleries. Soon after, I lost my job of 18 years, and about a year later had to move out of the house and in with my girlfriend. The models literally went on the shelf. She sat on top of a cabinet for nearly a year when I got an invite from the director of Historic Ships Baltimore to bring the model to the Baltimore Port Expo celebrating National Maritime Day.

The suction hoses – part 4. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
After test fitting the hose ends to establish the correct lengths the hoses were trimmed to size and the fittings were then glued into the hose ends with some epoxy. On the real boat the hoses are arranged to lay on the tops of the foam tanks and they are supported on the stern coaming by a bronze hook. I formed this hook from some brass sheet so that it holds the hoses firmly one above the other, this was primed and finished in gunmetal grey and fixed to the coaming with a couple of brass rivets and a spot of epoxy. For a bit of extra security I cut some large diameter heat shrink to form some bands around the hoses to hold them together. So now the hoses are all finished and I think they look really good, I’ll probably re-polish the brass fittings and apply a light coat of lacquer to keep them nice and shiny at a later stage 😎

Progress Mark 2 by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hello all, So I've managed to get back to somewhere near where I was last time. The frame work is of a slightly thicker Ply (1/4") The Keel is straight, frames are all 100% level and I've now used balsa block for the Bow and Stern to give the planking a bit more support and to assist in getting a better shape at both ends. Fingers crossed I will have the hull build in the next few weeks, I can then get on with Sanding and filling before applying fiberglass and Resin to make the hull solid. Uploaded a few photos to show where I'm at. Good luck with your builds. Dave.

Damen Stan 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Decided to advance LI-PO plans and try a 4S 4000mAh pack. This weight of this pack reduced overall model weight by 8 oz, so it is now 9.6 lbs, close to the original target. Was also to slide the pack further sternwards until it touched the inner face of the RIB slipway, about 2.5” from the stern. The effect on the waterline was limited; the model now sits slightly higher with the waterline remaining level. Slowly increased the speed of the motors to assess the LI-PO performance. There was a significant improvement. There is no need to use “ full” power as it probably exceeds max scale speed. As the model accelerates the bow lifts exposing an area of the red bottom paint. The wake streams down the side of the vessel and curls off the spray rails. She looks very realistic. The attached picture is at part speed. The model is totally controllable, the influence of the centre fins is noticeable as the heeling is not pronounced unless extreme manoeuvring is tried. After 90 minutes of use decided all original objectives for the model are now accomplished. She looks and performs well. The next task is to tidy up the temporary wiring and fit the LI-PO properly. Will also have to re-route more accessories through the voltage reducer fitted for the bow thruster so the LED lights are not overpowered. Have also bought a small r/c controlled child’s jet ski toy with the intention is using the drive and control system in the RIB. It will require much mutilation of both the jet ski and the RIB to work them in together, but think it can be achieved. My next blog will tell.

Masts, mast steps, inside the hull, the rudder by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
The model's lower masts are made of white cedar. These were cut square, a taper hand-planed in, made 8-sided, then round. The bands are the same brown paper tape the hull was covered in. A visit to the real ship in Baltimore to get measurements, and look at some artifacts netted me some bits of live oak original to the ship. The Navy began stockpiling live oak for ship-building in 1816 with the Gradual Increase Act. It was from these stockpiles that Constellation was built. These trees were as much as 200 years old when cut, so this wood I have could be as much as 400 years old. I wasn't sure how to incorporate this bit of the ship into the model, and opted to make the mast steps from it. One piece is the size of a business card and stamped USS Constellation 1854. I'll stamp the year she's finally finished and my name into that and install it as her builder's plate. The masts step on what I call her mechanical decks. These are simple 3/8" plywood panels where her mechanics and controls will be mounted. Beams were epoxied into the hull for them, and they are held in place with brass wood screws. The aft deck is where the mizzen steps and the rudder servo is mounted. The battery lies on it's own deck just abaft the main mast as low as it can possibly be inside the hull. The cross-section drawing shows deck beams, decks, ballast rods, the external ballast, etc etc etc. The rudder is made from Plexiglas as shown in it's drawing. A brass tube passes through the stern that the rudder's head just fits into. There's no room behind the rudder head for a bell-crank setup to work, so I again went with real boat tech and installed a tiller, made of copper plate soldiered to a set-collar. There's a couple of pictures of the aluminum tubes for the ballast rods in there. You may want to right-click on an image, like the drawings, and "View Image" then click on it to see it full size and legible. Use the browser's "back" button to get out of that.

water, paint, copper by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
The gun deck isn't modeled. I was building a model intended to sail in open water and didn't want to deal with open gun ports, hatches, etc. After glassing the hull, she got beams for the spar deck installed. 3/4" x 3/4", they're probably a bit more than was needed. Tubes were installed for 5/16" stainless threaded rods that would hold her external ballast on. The forward one will be disguised as her galley stovepipe, the aft one is hidden under the cabin skylight. The ballast is a 2" i.d. PVC pipe about 4 feet long, filled with lead bird-shot, and weighing some 42 pounds. With that much done, I took her to the creek to see her float, but I forgot the rods. A few days later I took her out again, remembering the rods, and put her lower masts in her. Now baptized, I applied the moldings and trim on her stern, and built up her enclosed head. Her gunport were molded in resin in the closed position with the guns clamped in the openings and a tampion in the muzzles. These were epoxied into gunports cut from the outer layer of glass and wood battens, leaving the matting in place as a backer. Then she got some paint, mainly because I was getting tired of her looking like a barkless log. The bottom was painted with copper paint, but three rolls of 1/2" wide peel-n-stick tape had just arrived and I started into coppering her bottom right off. Copper plates are nailed on with copper nails with counter-sunk heads through pre-punched holes in the copper sheets. The are FLAT with with a little hollow where they're driven in just beyond flush with the surface. They are NOT round headed nor look like rivets as so many models insist are doing. I pressed an impression of the nails into the face of each plate. Installing them pushes this dent back out and leaves a little circle that looks as it should. It took about a week to do one side, and I took a break to make the tops for the lower masts, then continued onto coppering the other side. It was bright and beautiful when finished, but it wouldn't stay that way. Copper doesn't turn green when submerged, any copper coin will show you it turns brown. I wanted her bottom to brown somewhat, but not too much, and I figured to let that happen naturally. When it got where I wanted it, I'd clear-coat it to lock it in. Two yards of Dupont Supplex cloth was ordered to make her sails. This is the stuff SC&H used on their square-rigger kits and it's great for making sails. Being a nylon, you cut it with a hot-knife, and use a pointed tip in a soldering iron to make grommets. I drew on the panel seams with a .03 marker as even the finest stitching is over scale even at 1:36. Top-cloths, corner reinforces, reef bands, etc, are all cut from the same cloth and glued on with fabric adhesive. The only sewing was of the bolt-ropes. These are done by hand much the way real ones are - I've sewn a few miles of real bolt ropes in my time. There's really no substitute for this if you want a functional scale appearing sail. A machine can't sew it properly, in the right position, or securely.

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
Hello Doug, know what you mean about ring saw's, when i was apprentice we had a type of ringsaw that was retained on its former or mandrel by a couple of 6BA screws, it wern't the best idea but they did work but blade life was limited when cutting into Trunking and switchgear even with a cutting paste/oil. But Black and Decker appeared at about this erra with their ring saw and it was a much better idea, but being new they were expensive. Bought this set about 15 years ago from Machine Mart, think they are "eastern" copies and ok on/in wood. Like your setup of the wood bits but i only have a battery drill here not a bench or pillar drill, so dont know if they would be suitable. In my case it was more of how much, and instant availability. Thinking back and i still use this method sometimes is to simply wrap sandpaper, about a 180 grade around a piece of 1/4" dowel or larger to suit the required radius, and it is surprising how quickly the "clean-up/radi" appears Muddy ....

Good news by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Dave i did a bath test with the new props on the sonlent lifeboat .I did full ford and full astern and no problem yet .on saturday i will be doing full test but solent lifeboat through its paces and see what works or not .cliff

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

Adolph Bermpohl by ChrisPSR Recruit   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 9/10] 79"/4400g Adolph Bermpohl Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 5mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 3 motors (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner (15Amps) ESC - Comments: My build and adaption of safety vessel carrying smaller stern carried lifeboat "The Vega Sac" now sold on. The drop down stern door has been made solid and she is now a self contained motor lifeboat vessel. Very manoeuvrable, quick and ballasted down rides most pond water that can be thrown at her. Currently in build, motors installed.

Some sort of tugboat /cargo thingy by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Well I have yet another old hull in the shed I have decided I will have to do something with. So Thinking maybe some sort of cargo ship. Or what ever it finally turns out to be... This time with all the superstructure at the stern.. The hull is an English type So could get away with the hull of a cargo ship anyway. So started the superstructure again using free plastic . and this is as Far as I have got to date.

Counter Rotating Props by epmbcmember Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I have always know propellers as left or right handed and on a single screw ship they nearly always turn clockwise looking from aft. Can be very handy if you know which is which as when approaching a berth on the port side at an angle with a right handed prop a good kick astern will put you flat alongside if you time it right. Done it many times with the real thing on all sizes of vessel. Can very often upset the Captain!!! but if timed right it works a treat.

Scale Sailing Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Only one thunker left to do and then it's a case of getting the very back end sorted. The lines I used from an American book on yachting history seemed fine, but were awry at the last couple of sections, although somehow these didn't show, so fortunately one bulkhead was knocked out and planks have been adjusted ending in just eyework to get the shapely hull back to a suitable elegant and very slim stern. We'll get there. Drilling down to do the rudder stock will be a major job as it's the entire depth of the rear end of the boat! But nothing brass tube, epoxy and Milliput can't repair, build up, be worked into shape! Cheers, Martin

Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Think I'll try 'Skybluepink with purple spots! 😉 I'm pretty sure she's a Scout not a Rover. Having washed off the 25 years the hull is actually not bad 😊 What I thought might be de-lamination at the stern turns out to be just flaky paint. So out with the mini sander. Watch this space!! 😎