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Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊
If it's just for pleasure you can modify as much as you want. If it's turning into wind chances are the mast is too far forward and looking at the pic it does seem to be tensioned towards the bow. If you slacken off the fore stay and tighten the rear stay this should move the mast tip towards the stern which should help. You could also try loosening the main sail at the boom to help it catch the wind.
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.THIS ONE'S TOO BIG FOR THE TUB, SO COME NEXT NAVIGATION SEASON, I'LL BE INVESTING IN A 12X4 FT. INFLATABLE POOL. LET'S GO RC BOATING! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
[Score: 8/10] 46"/4400g ILLINI SPIRIT Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:96 GREAT LAKES FREIGHTER KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME. MY THIRD BOAT TO JOIN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET. DECKED WITH 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING, BOTTOM REINFORCED WITH A 3/8" LAM SPRUCE BOARD (ALSO PROTECTS THE PVC BOTTOM FROM ROCKS & ADDS BUOYANCY). FEATURES A RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL AND A RABOESCH 22MM 7.2V BOW THRUSTER FOR DOCKING/MANEUVERING. LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND STATIC BRASS RADAR ARRAYS. NICE PVC SHEETING ON WOOD FRAME KIT, THE ONLY REAL CHALLENGE WAS THE STERN SECTION SHEER CONSTRUCTION, BUT THAT'S WHAT PUTTY'S FOR, RIGHT?
Hi Richard, the angle is steep to allow the starting flywheel of an i/c motor to clear the keel. This angle was quite steep, but with the motor's power it allowed the hull to run quite fast. Electric motors are a lot smaller so a lower angle of about 15 degrees, will work well, this will give more forward thrust without forcing the bows down wasting power, lifting the stern upwards in the water. Mark
Hi Richard lovely neat clean installation there, makes things so much nicer to work on when it looks like that. I personally feel your batts will be better in the centre section, similar discussion going on with another thread regarding balance, that stern weigh will cause the bow to raise prematurely, no doubt testing will provide the correct answer Paul
the first time I sailed the boat with the old motor she was fast and literally stood up in the water on half throttle with just the lead acid battery and no ballast, it was sitting with the back end about half an inch above the underside skins and the bow was well out of the water, I was advised by one of the club members that I needed to trim the boat so it was down at the front but keeping the stern approximately where it was, therfore the lead in the compartment forward of the motor and the battery in the compartment behind. However the 5000mAh and the 3300mAh batteries are not connect and are only held in place with a bit of velcro, also the lead in the front is just shaped to the hull and cannot move, but I can lift it out, so I will see how it runs next week
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)
Scout13 I only have one battery connected at a time, with two batteries in situ I can use the other one when the first one is flagging,to give a longer running time, I could put them in Parallel but prefer to know I have a charged battery to use with an approx running time before it fails altogether. I have made a cover over the shaft coupling to prevent any cables coming into contact with it should they move, there is plenty of air space around this cover as well but the photo does not show it.Dave M the pond is weed free and the prop is the recommended one in the plans for the boat, as far as I am aware it is no larger dia. than the motor, but I will check that.As far as the weights I had to put lead in the front and mid section to get the boat down into the water as it was sitting on the hull and was not stable, I had some lead in the back as well as I used a spirit level when I was sorting it out in the bath, however when I first tried it in the pond the back end was too low in the water when it was going, so I took the heavier weight from the section just rear of the motor compartment and swapped it for the lighter weight just forward of the motor compartment, although this was better when tried again the stern was too low when it was moving so I removed the weights from the stern and as far as I could see it was just right, stationary the boat looked levelish but when moving on full throttle, the bow came up and had a nice bow wave with the stern down below the water level but with a (for want of the technical term) a hollow wave, when on a slower throttle it was fine and sailed nicely at all speed levels. What worries me is that the motor shown fitted in the boat was supposed to be the better motor than the photo of the one outside of the boat, would this benefit from a water cooled motor as to be honest I would not want to alter the top speed of the boat as it is just about right . just to let you all know I have a background knowledge of electrics so do know the difference between parallel and series voltages😊