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>> Home > Tags > stern

stern
stern cover
stern
MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.

Denatured Alcohol by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Doug, Going bang was all about my worry. More bang for your bucks???? would hate to loose you for the forum just to see you disappearing though the hole were your roof used to be!!!! PS, wonder if any of the security services have clocked our mixture discussion's??? might be a stern knock on the door soon!!! Regards Mark. (Free for now!!!!)

First test run by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Mate, allowing for the battery pack being slightly down, the boat is bows down, not allowing it to come up onto the plane, try moving the batteries back towards the stern Regards Mark

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Recently visited the U.K and collected the hull from a relative. It is now back in Canada so a detailed examination can be carried out. First impressions are: 1) The Deans Velarde hull bulwarks have fortunately not been trimmed to the final dimensions, these are marked in pencil. The excess material will really help as the Teakwood forecastle extends further sternwards and this extra material avoids having to build the forward bulwarks up. 2) The hull has many details added to facilitate positioning; portholes, rubbing strakes etc. These will all have to be sanded off as they do not fit the Teakwood. 3) The Velarde has a pronounced “dodger” on top of the bulwarks around the bow. This will also have to be removed. 4) The bow leading edge is quite bluff, possibly to suite the GF manufacturing process. This will probably work in my favour as it can be extended forward and slimmed into the Teakwood style entry, which is sharper and more vertical. 5) The hull is slightly oversize (about .300”) , not enough to be concerned about, but it does make the revised LBP correct! 6) The hull is nicely made and a credit to Deans Marine. The initial plan was to modify the hull shape first to adapt it into the Teakwood. Decided, as it is quite flexible, it would be better to add a keel strip, bulkheads and deck supports first. It would then become rigid enough to work. This revision to my original thoughts proved the best approach. The hull needs several modifications, but until it is rigid it is premature to implement them. The modifications will only prove more difficult and then inaccurate. Made up a number of plywood bulkheads, based upon the MM Velarde plan, but reduced in height to suite the Teakwood. As these are trial fitted into place in the GF hull further adjustments can be made. Once satisfied with the bulkhead fit, they and the keel were epoxied into place. Horizontal stringers were also added to ensure the bulkheads were accurately positioned, vertical and not twisted until the epoxy set. Can probably remove them once the hull structure is compete, although they could also be left in place to support the deck. Will probably largely leave in place. Deck support stringers were also epoxied into place and the hull sides glued to them. The hull is now good and stiff and can be worked safely. As the stern portion will require further adjustment, the sides were left free from the stern bulkhead rearwards. This will allow the rework without cutting through recently fitted items.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Mark/Doug Sorry about this but.............. Before I start the 'build' thread, how Do I take the deck off?! I have removed all visible screws and the two under the stern posts. What have I missed? I promise I will try to get better.............I can be challenged when changing a toilet roll so it may take time.......... NPJ

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Neville, the only advice about balance i would give is keep the heavy stuff right down low in the hull. Richardson is the modern version, 2.4ghz with smoke generator, this is mounted in the lower cabin, and makes her a bit tender to rolling, the battery position does not seem to be a problem as i said earlier, forward seems to make them sail well, rearward keeps the props well down when going astern Mark

Seen in Portsmouth Naval Dockyard by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
But Selwyn, what was moored astern of 102 when you took the photo ? Looks like the stern of an mtb of some kind 😊 Neil, thanks for the original photos. £300 for 30 minutes is a bit steep for me, but, there's always the lottery 😁 Best wishes all, Dave W 😊

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
So far so good! 👍 I agree, others may not know but you will and it will nag 🤔 Close enough is not good enough! Bon chance, will follow with interest. Cheers Doug. PS: for all the non shipbuilders amongst us LBP means Length Between Perpendiculars. This has unfortunately various interpretations- "Length between perpendiculars (often abbreviated as p/p, p.p., pp, LPP, LBP or Length BPP) is the length of a ship along the waterline from the forward surface of the stem, or main bow perpendicular member, to the after surface of the sternpost, or main stern perpendicular member. When there is no sternpost, the centerline axis of the rudder stock is used as the aft end of the length between perpendiculars. Measuring to the stern post or rudder stock was believed to give a reasonable idea of the ship's carrying capacity, as it excluded the small, often unusable volume contained in her overhanging ends. On some types of vessels this is, for all practical purposes, a waterline measurement. In a ship with raked stems, naturally that length changes as the draught of the ship changes, therefore it is measured from a defined loaded condition." Alles klar?? Not to be confused with LoA, Length Over All, = length between hull extremities fore and aft. For us model builders LoA is perhaps more useful. Cheers Doug

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Finally obtained General Arrangement drawings for both vessels. Scaled them to the same size and superimposed the Teakwood hull drawing onto the Velarde. This confirmed that a conversion was possible and that much of the major rework would be limited to around the stern. The bow could be extended relatively easily and the bulwark heights trimmed and reshaped. One point to remember in reviewing the attached photographs, the Velarde hull plan is slightly oversize. Have noticed when printing plans the humidity affects the paper and sizes can change slightly. This would not be of much importance when building a kit, but should be considered in a hull conversion. With the two hulls superimposed and the Velarde adjusted to the correct size, considered the ways the hull could be adapted. Measuring sternwards from the revised bow profile found the correct LBP could be obtained if the Velarde rudder post was moved back about 5/16”. This would also reduce the stern rework and allow the use of my traditional bow strengthener of bent wire from a steel coat hangar. This slight bow extension would help to offset the stern profile, with the hull and LBPs remaining the correct overall lengths. In the photos the Velarde hull lines are black and the Teakwood red with pencil accents: they indicate the amount of bow/stern rework. The bulwarks are relatively simple, they only need lowering slightly. Next step is to examine the actual hull and compare it with the plan to see how accurate it is. Hopefully this will confirm of my investigations - of course, could always leave the hull “as is” and use it that way. I would be only person aware of the differences! Unfortunately, being something of a purist, this easy way out did not compute.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Neville, Independent motors, handy but the effect is not brilliant, i use one ESC, but again its up to you, 2 ESC's and a mixer, getting complicated for a first tug!!! Larger Rudders, not needed really, they are pretty maneuverable as standard, however!! they dont go astern very well depending on the wind they are poor, direction is haphazard at best. (great fun, which way will it go???) SEE great questions. Regards Mark