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The next stage is to assemble and fit the upper and lower chines to the bulkhead formers. Each chine is made from three parts that are step jointed together, the instructions recommend using the plan to ensure correct alignment with a protective transparent paper between, however the cutting accuracy of the parts is such that having checked the alignment over the plan I was confident that assembling and glueing them together on the cutting mat would be OK. The upper chines were assembled first and when set were glued and pinned to the tops of the bulkhead formers with the fronts butting against the K1 keel former at the prow. The lower chines were assembled in the same fashion and when dry are glued and set into the slots in the bulkhead formers. Finally the stern former F7 is added and the whole assembly set aside to dry. The hull is quickly taking shape now and even at this stage is very rigid and yet remarkably light.
But how do you know what shape to make the frames if you have no plans? You would have more success with a foam/plaster 'buck' where you can add and subtract until the hull shape looks like the photos. At that point you could then continue into GF or dissect the buck to get the frame shapes.
Has anyone done any significant modifications to a Thunder Tiger Avanti fast electric? I have one and all I have done is to replace the nylon prop with a metal one thus there is very little increase in performance and the reason for doing this was due to the nylon prop throwing a blade after striking an underwater object. Prestwich Model Boats have a suitable replacement motor complete with a better ESC than the existing Ace one and their system can handle up to 4S Lipos instead of the stock set up of 3s . I have located a source of a 4S Lipo which length and width is same as my 3S one but the height is a little more and it will fit into the battery box. To trim it out properly I would have to add some ballast to the starboard side. Due to the electrics including the battery all being in a small watertight box at the stern there is not a great amount of scope for a lot of mods. Boaty😁
You are correct in your thinking. The component is called a spray rail and is mounted at the chine line from bow to stern. The spray rail provides additional lift so planning can be achieved at a slightly lower speed, and at the same time deflects the spray down and out from the side of the boat at speed.
Do you have any other photos? If you have plans giving the hull sections then you could build using ribs and plank but without them you have no idea where to start with the hull shape. If you have photos of her in dry dock or during build then you could model something from the photos using foam and plaster of paris. When you are happy with the result making a mould off of that is fairly simple and well documented on youtube etc. Does the build company (Built in at the Gdynia Shipyard, Poland for Boyd Line Ltd. 212 x 38,4 ft.) have a web site with info? Does she have a sister ship or were there a series of the same hull? Steve
The Model That I am Planing to Build Is The Hull Freezer Stern Trawler The Arctic Privateer H441 My Problem is though I have never scratched built a ships hull before I have tried looking for ships hulls online to no avail. Can any one give me any help or advice on where to start Building the hull would Plank on frame be the best way to go or glass fibre hull which is i think the harder as I do not have a mould in in which to start as I have very limited knowledge in mould making Scale: I am looking at is 1:48 any help would be gratefully appreciated many thanks John
This ship was a lightship tender named "Coeur de Lion" that was armed and drafted into the Union during the civil war to counter blockade runners. This model is scratch built and is inspired by a paper model designed by Magnus Mörck. A sidewheel steamer equipped with the typical walking beam machinery, it was rebuilt to carry three guns. A line of iron plates along the gun wales added a measure of armoured protection. After the war it was returned to lightship service. On my model the paddles are independently driven, mainly because I have a Robbe Navy F14 transmitter with twin sticks. The walking beam is operated by a servo modified for continuous rotation. The original ship towed a barge that flew an observation balloon and could be described as the first 'aircraft carrier' the fifth picture shows the barge I have made - I hope one day to emulate the real thing by raising and lowering a suitable balloon. I have included some pictures of the rest of my paddle fleet.The 'Rachel Erin' is a freelance sternwheeler 'quarter wheeler' tug that uses a worm drive to the paddles. She does not steer well. The last ship is an enlarged version of Graham Goodchild's Santa Anna.
Hi Gary Thanks for thinking of the up load it's nice to hear from people on this site I started the build of the Puffer frames are cut and mounted on my building board looking good so far now that I have it set up I'm looking at bow and stern to see how to proceed will try and up date but I'm bad I don't do pictures . Rick
😊Hello Friends I would like to introduce myself My name is John I live Hull I am 66 years old I Have retired now after spending most of my life at Sea now That I have time on my hands I used to do a lot of the Plastic model Boats but i have now decided to have a go at doing A model Stern Trawler The problem is That I cannot get a Hull for the Ship that I am Planning on My Question is how do you scratch build a Hull what are my best chances and how do you go about it Has any one got any ideas as this is going to be my first Project please can anyone help Kind Regards John😎
Thought I would share some photos of my lovely 1:16 scale model cabin cruisers, of the famous 1920/30s Herbert Wood's Light Class Blakes Holiday Cabin Cruisers. And their scale Broads dinghy, Titmouse. All their external detail is exact to the real craft of their heyday. I simply love constructing these old craft from a real bygone era. Presently underway are more cruisers I am working on, Cirrus and Western Light.
Hey Colin, I've got a staple remover 😉 you could nip over here, I'll whip the staples out and you can take the Supermarine back with you! 😁😁 Seriously though folks🤓; Great news Colin, esp. after all this time and pain 👍 Very happy for you 😊 Wasn't kidding about the motor. I'll be updating the 'Resurrection' blog soon. Attached are a few preview pics of the final tests run at the weekend. She's chuntering along at 11.1V (equivalent to a 3S LiPo) drawing about 1.3A off load. I've made up a set of connecting leads and set it up to run ahead with an RH prop as requested. I've assumed your ESC will have bullet connectors!? FF I've added a Red/Green LED to indicate if it should be running forwards (clockwise) or backwards. BTW: I wouldn't recommend full astern on any more than 7.4/8.6V, she don't like it 😱 Shall I put it in that natty plastic box? Or will you just screw it to a wooden frame? All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎
Arun now sorted. Programming card did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.
Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.