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>> Home > Tags > styrene

styrene
polystyrene
styrene
Choose a brushless motor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
1. Added strakes to bow used a rectangle section of styrene as more flexible. 2. Brought a motor mount (cooled) but may also add a jacket. 3. Painted cabin will need to redo as paint cover was poor. 4. Looking to find the best brushless motor for the job, remembering these boat race on 7.4v 3300mah batteries fo 5-6 mins. That gives a ruff consumption of 33 Amps which means the motor need to be able to handle about 250Watts. I have pick out 4 to test 1. 2850 2650 kv, 800W, max 19v, max 52A. 2. 2860 4050 kv, 1300W,max 12v, max 108A. 3. 3650 3930 kv, 800W, max 13v, max 60A. 4. 2845 3100 kv, 800W, max 17v, max 47A. On paper it should be between 1. and 3., 3 being the most suited ???. So on paper motor 3. running 7.4v will give 450 watts max at (60A max current at 13v) so 7.4v should have a max a round 30A (unless stalled). giving 222W 244.2 watts target at 7.4v = 33A max for 6 mins on a 3.3ah battery if battery function is good. 33A drain will depend on the propeller size 32mm- 45mm ! A safety margin may be 30A when moving and 33A in bath. 7.4v x 3930kv = 29,082 rpm perfect for hydro, not for sub drive.

WSP 9 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
A very tidy build, I am building a styrene model 60cm long for fun racing as it is a police boat what about a siren / sound effects too!

British Air Sea Rescue Launch by CB90 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Plastic Model Boat Kit WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24″ x 7″ 1/35th semi-scale. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/ww2-british-air-sea-res... The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs. Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet. Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA. To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.

Graupner ranzow refitting by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
I just thought i should mention for those of you wondering what all the polystyrene bits in the hull are for, as i mentioned at the start of this refit the boat did sink so i am not taking any further chances of it sinking again and i am filling all the empty space with polystyrene before fixing the deck in place. Ron

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Evenin' Peter, I downloaded the instructions and the designer warns against using side cutters to cut from the sprues, as one is used to with more robust polystyrene. he recommends a razor saw. I still think you should at least spray the hull, but it's your boat so 'If it feels good - do it' 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎 PS: My 50 cals + ammo belts should be here on Friday or Saturday. Wish me luck with the sprues and bullets at 1/35, even more fragile than yours 😲

Spare parts by Jerry1 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all, I am in the middle of building Drumbeat of Devon. The problem I have is the kit was purchased quite a few years ago and with moving home 3 times I have managed to lose the 5 cabin front styrene windows. I am hoping someone can help me make or have scale drawings? Cheers Jerry

Cabin Aft! by Donnieboy Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
What I use to cut out the portholes is a step drill.I don't put it in a drill.I just use my fingers to rotate it.Works good on balsa and styrene.It makes a clean cut.

Carol Moram by John-Donyatt Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 20"/1200g Carol Moram Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive to a Mtroniks (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Vyper (25Amps) ESC - Comments: A Dumas kit with two hull halves and brilliantly detailed ply and styrene superstructure. Needs 24 ozs of lead shot to balance

Fire boat by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Kevin. Welcome to the forum. A resin fittings kit for the 1:16 (34.5 inch) fireboat is available from SLEC: http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/Crash-Tender-Fiting-Kit-PR8... They are made from styrene and are consequently won't add too much additional weight. There is also a white metal fitting kit available from Model Slipway: http://www.modelslipway.com/fittings/crashtender/crash%20ten... This set looks more comprehensive and will add a bit more weight but will be much sturdier. Not forgetting the range of 1:16 fittings available from the 'Model Shop' on this site.👍 I hope that's helpful. Robbob.

another daft question by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sounds brilliant, am looking at making a butty barge by a similar method but using polystyrene packing boxes, for towing with my tugs. Hope all goes well with your build, looking forward to posts. Cheers Colin.

another daft question by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
While the paddle tug is at the fitting out stage I decided to start a puffer ,rather than do planking on frames I can get lots of scrap blue polystyrene from my work I thought about putting it between the frames and shaping it ,I read somewhere on the forum about covering it in card and then using easy coat to seal it ,I am making a jig at work to joogle the card and make rivet like dents to make the plates overlap and look as if their riveted, does this make sense or am I on a wild goose chase. Cheers Marky👍

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug I agree the commercial stuff is not nice. I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc. It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists: PLAS1 Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate, Acrylic and other types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush. Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle 2.00 POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25 POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00 POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75 PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50. There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas. Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible. I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!

Club Racer, One class by ronrees Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 18"/500g Club Racer, One class Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a 2820 x 1100kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy w/p. 30 amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is based on a Fairey Swordsman and is another of my own designs but made in Vac Formed Styrene for which the vac former was home-made as well. The model is designed specifically for youngsters and club members who want to race together. The boat only has 5 parts!! Top, bottom, rudder and servo cast assembly ( Polyester resin) and motor, prop shaft assembly also Polyester resin. A wooden frame that forms the seal and holds hull in shape. The whole top comes off. Its scarey fast and very tough (2mm styrene) and was made for under £25. Hoping build article will also go into MB magazine sometime.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.