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>> Home > Tags > styrene

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Doug: I feel like a dunce for not noticing that anchor before. It sticks out like a sore thumb if you know where to look. That’s another thing that I’m surprised hobby engine didn’t add to the boat. I guess in the long run it was easier for moldmaking purposes to omit that particular detail. That’s another thing, however, that wouldn’t be all that hard to scratchbuild. All that’s needed is to cut an opening in the bulwark & build a sheet styrene box for the housing. It’s not exactly a high priority item, but I think it would go a long way toward adding realism. So far none of the photos of the Wyforce I’ve seen show what the anchor enclosure looks like on the inside of the bulwark. Then again maybe some of them did & I missed that, too. I assume there’s an anchor winch, possibly below deck near the chain locker. I expect there’s a “drop/raise” button inside the pilot house. I’ll browse for a photo of the anchor & post it if I succeed. Thanks

Exciters/transducers by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Great stuff. Really useful. Interesting that they do not want boxing in. It is the mrrc ones that I intend to use on the Launch. Have Dayton ones on the tug. Away at the moment but will check out you YouTube stuff when back. Are you saying more open foam/polystyrene works better than the more dense stuff? Cheers. NPJ

1/16th scale Tamar by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
I would always say if you don't need lots of speed stay brushed, "ordinary" motors. As for styrene, it can warp horribly so needs more bracing than you might think or the kit manufacturer might tell you. Brace with liteply or hard balsa/obeche where you can out of sight. Martin

1/16th scale Tamar by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
I'm considering Model Slipay Tamar Class as my next project. I have never used styrene before (other than Airfix in my youth). Every article I have read on this model have used a twin Speed 600 ECO set up. I am toying with the idea of brushless but have no idea where to start in terms of equivalent motors etc. any idea anyone?😁

Mahogany in Scale by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Maybe I should write one, eh, Colin? For the scratchbuilders among us. A treatise on brass bashing and woodwork. Nobody would be interested. I've just epoxied my Sea Hornet, which I'm modifying as a Chris Craft Custom Runabout. One cockpit, big hatch. Cost me 99p off ebay a few years ago. I just had to scrape all the old red paint off it as it wanted to fall off anyway! Then a huge rub down, a wipe with cellulose thinner and a coat of epoxy applied with a square of styrene sheet because I couldn't find an old credit card on the quick, just as good though. Next, rub down and 2 coats of cellulose primer surfacer, then the top coats. This one is to be one of the painted CCs. There were quite a few. But the deck will be veneered in the correct style and varnished. Martin

Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Started building Deans Marine Libertyship Robert E. Perry finished Lenth 54 1/2” beam 7 1/2” weight 35 lbs. Power is Deans motor Falcon 3671 6 volt 1500rpm 3.19mm shaft and prop 147-18 brass propeller 50-L-4bl-M4. Kit is very nicely done all fittings and hardware are included with the kit. The hull is detailed and I have lined the inside of the hull with 2 x 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin to give it more rigidity. I have installed the motor and prop shaft along with the rudder which I replaced since the kit supplied rudder was cast resin and only had a 3/32 dia shaft, I’m sure it would work fine but felt better with something a little more substantial. Added 5 lbs of ballast I used shot and installed sub floor in hull. Equipment installation and deck fitting, added 1/8” plywood as deck and styrene on top.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, Doug: I stumbled upon some other LEDs that are particularly well suited for navigation lights. They have the same specs as the rectangular LEDs shown in the photo I posted recently, but what makes them ideal for me is that they’re flat-topped, not domed. They’re cylindrical in shape, still 3mm diameter & look quite similar to ship’s lanterns (see photo). With your experience you’ve probably seen these before, but I was surprised to see them. My plan is similar to the original idea for making scale lights, except as we last discussed white LEDs will be used everywhere, colored by dipping them in appropriately colored glass paint. For the mast lights that will remain white but need to emit light at a given angle, I’ll mask & paint the LED’s body the same color as the mast, resulting in a clear aperture. 4mm & 2.5mm diameter disks punched from sheet styrene, glued one atop the other, then painted & glued to the top of each LED will form the light’s top covers. What do you think? BTW, the flat-top LEDs are also available in a variety of colors. If anyone is interested I’ll post the url to their location. Thanks, Pete

Vickers Vedette 1/96 scale by f4u7 Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Scratch built from a 1975 free plan, hull is balsa frames sheeted with basswood and covered with 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth, superstructure is styrene sheet, missile launcher from balsa block, forward bofors torpedo launcher from styrene sheet and wood dowl, photo etch ladders, white metal handrail stanchions, other fittings are brass and resin, lw-02 radar and directors are from shape ways rudders and stabilizers are balsa block, you get the idea.

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Apropos 'Hairyplanes' Use an In Runner if you go brushless for a plane. Generally smaller and lighter than outrunners, easier to mount, and you don't need the high torque of outrunners like we do to get a heavy boat moving in the wet stuff 👍 I have a styrene 'Flying Wing/Boat' in the cellar I haven't had the guts to try out yet! 😲 Wasn't rocket science to fix your TX, fault jumped out and bit me when I opened the case! Main thing; it won't now be wasted. 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Haha, I bet you're better equipped than that, but you really need a piercing saw and a selection of blades. Here's a f'rinstance. Others are available. I'm sure Conrad will have them. They cut the finest curves and although with a vee block you can do what silversmiths do, I have always used the vice jaws as a guide, which is why I'm on my 7th vice or so. I have completely worn them away! I use them for my junior hacksaw cuts too. You really must make some smooth jaw covers or get a smooth jawed vice. Less than perfect, but good enough ones can be had from ebay too. I even put the 1mm styrene in the vice to file the radiussed corners, once I've cut the straight lines. I then make a straight cut across the corners and then file them while the styrene is in the vice. Here's the framed windows I did yesterday. Haven't done much today as I had to MoT test the car, which failed, alas. So that's in tomorrow for the work to be done as my son-in-law no longer mends cars, even family ones. Also here are the brass gutters over the cabin windows, some of which need the apertures to be cleaned up, before final painting. Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf. If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish. Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Martin, was time consuming and fiddly but; If a job's worth doing .... Good idea with the styrene, got lots o that as well in various grades. Will watch with interest how yours turn out👍 I had wondered though what polished alu would look like; either 'reet neece' 😉 or cheapo 🤔! May in the end still go for mahogany, more fiddly but I like a challenge 😊 Still looking for suitable crew for 'Jessica'. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: you could always spray all the frames in one swoosh before you fit the glass 😉

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Very neat job, Doug. On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him. What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire. Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT! Cheers, Martin

Fibreglass hull/deck fit by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Fits but leaves gaps suggest to me that it only really fits where it touches, as my Dad used to say. Which suggests a wavy deck edge. Not worth the hassle. If it'll fit once cut, cut it, back it up and fill. I would imagine you could bond in some 2mm styrene or plywood then fill over that with a car body filler, to smooth the joint. I am assuming the deck is meant to fit that hull? You never know! Cheers, Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I would like first to say that this is NOT a restoration. It has always been mine and followed me around all those years, been used extensively on Oyster beds on the Essex coast and Valentine's Park in Ilford, Essex...even the great Victoria Park, of which my Granddad was a founder member. It has eaten its way through lantern batteries out of number which my Dad, who was in the business could magic from thin air. There was always a nook in the boot of the Triumph Town and Country saloon and then the Austin Westminster for another new lantern battery, which the Taycol would destroy in about 20 intermittent minutes of left, centre, right, centre from the REP single channel gear. How I wish I still had that, but it was stolen. The REP, that is, the Taycol remains, restored and cleaned and like new again waiting to go back in the boat. I finally decided I should finish it. My wife bought me a set of white metal fittings by Yeoman out of IP Engineering, so I have no excuse. Not that I need one. It has suffered a bit over that half a century, losing odd panels, but they are easily remade and replaced. First, I had to clean out the insides of the detritus and loft life of decades. Vacuuming, scraping with a pointy thing and brushing with a stiff brush, followed by more vacuuming using a clever attachment that my dear wife thought might be useful and it was, being at least a dozen stiff, but small diameter tubes poking out of the end of a nozzle. It both pokes and nudges the old dirt and dust and sucks it away. After that the old thin mahogany deck planks, my friend thought to add in the late 60s were removed and saved where salvageable as I quite like them for trim on other boats. The deck was rather brutalised with a coarse rasp and any loose nails punched back in flush or slightly below. Then some way too old, but still good, epoxy (WEST) was used to slar all over the decks and most of the insides, even some of the cabin sides. That will be finished before dark today. I can hardly believe the epoxy still works, but it does, perfectly and so is pressed into use. In this warm weather it set very quickly. I did my usual trick of squeegeeing it on into the grain with an old credit card or Gummi, which is a sample block of silicon. Styrene will also do. I use some spare 2mm stuff I was given (that guy at IP Engineering again). The roofs had already been corrected the other evening and heavily cellulose sanding sealed. The forward cabin removeable roof was unwarped by having a tight fitting diagonal piece of pear pressed in under the top skin and glued. The new hatch on that roof was made and the shape of the roof and hatch runners changed slightly, as per drawings from this site. Here are pics. of the work today. The above resinning, the remade cabin panels a new wheelhouse bulkhead and the tow hook base panel, finally a new aft cockpit rear coaming which it never had but should have. Cheers, Martin