Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
July 2018: 5 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 25 people
December 2017: 7 people
November 2017: 3 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (17)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > styrene

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Apropos 'Hairyplanes' Use an In Runner if you go brushless for a plane. Generally smaller and lighter than outrunners, easier to mount, and you don't need the high torque of outrunners like we do to get a heavy boat moving in the wet stuff 👍 I have a styrene 'Flying Wing/Boat' in the cellar I haven't had the guts to try out yet! 😲 Wasn't rocket science to fix your TX, fault jumped out and bit me when I opened the case! Main thing; it won't now be wasted. 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Haha, I bet you're better equipped than that, but you really need a piercing saw and a selection of blades. Here's a f'rinstance. Others are available. I'm sure Conrad will have them. They cut the finest curves and although with a vee block you can do what silversmiths do, I have always used the vice jaws as a guide, which is why I'm on my 7th vice or so. I have completely worn them away! I use them for my junior hacksaw cuts too. You really must make some smooth jaw covers or get a smooth jawed vice. Less than perfect, but good enough ones can be had from ebay too. I even put the 1mm styrene in the vice to file the radiussed corners, once I've cut the straight lines. I then make a straight cut across the corners and then file them while the styrene is in the vice. Here's the framed windows I did yesterday. Haven't done much today as I had to MoT test the car, which failed, alas. So that's in tomorrow for the work to be done as my son-in-law no longer mends cars, even family ones. Also here are the brass gutters over the cabin windows, some of which need the apertures to be cleaned up, before final painting. Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf. If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish. Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Thanks Martin, was time consuming and fiddly but; If a job's worth doing .... Good idea with the styrene, got lots o that as well in various grades. Will watch with interest how yours turn out👍 I had wondered though what polished alu would look like; either 'reet neece' 😉 or cheapo 🤔! May in the end still go for mahogany, more fiddly but I like a challenge 😊 Still looking for suitable crew for 'Jessica'. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: you could always spray all the frames in one swoosh before you fit the glass 😉

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Very neat job, Doug. On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him. What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire. Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT! Cheers, Martin

Fibreglass hull/deck fit by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Fits but leaves gaps suggest to me that it only really fits where it touches, as my Dad used to say. Which suggests a wavy deck edge. Not worth the hassle. If it'll fit once cut, cut it, back it up and fill. I would imagine you could bond in some 2mm styrene or plywood then fill over that with a car body filler, to smooth the joint. I am assuming the deck is meant to fit that hull? You never know! Cheers, Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
I would like first to say that this is NOT a restoration. It has always been mine and followed me around all those years, been used extensively on Oyster beds on the Essex coast and Valentine's Park in Ilford, Essex...even the great Victoria Park, of which my Granddad was a founder member. It has eaten its way through lantern batteries out of number which my Dad, who was in the business could magic from thin air. There was always a nook in the boot of the Triumph Town and Country saloon and then the Austin Westminster for another new lantern battery, which the Taycol would destroy in about 20 intermittent minutes of left, centre, right, centre from the REP single channel gear. How I wish I still had that, but it was stolen. The REP, that is, the Taycol remains, restored and cleaned and like new again waiting to go back in the boat. I finally decided I should finish it. My wife bought me a set of white metal fittings by Yeoman out of IP Engineering, so I have no excuse. Not that I need one. It has suffered a bit over that half a century, losing odd panels, but they are easily remade and replaced. First, I had to clean out the insides of the detritus and loft life of decades. Vacuuming, scraping with a pointy thing and brushing with a stiff brush, followed by more vacuuming using a clever attachment that my dear wife thought might be useful and it was, being at least a dozen stiff, but small diameter tubes poking out of the end of a nozzle. It both pokes and nudges the old dirt and dust and sucks it away. After that the old thin mahogany deck planks, my friend thought to add in the late 60s were removed and saved where salvageable as I quite like them for trim on other boats. The deck was rather brutalised with a coarse rasp and any loose nails punched back in flush or slightly below. Then some way too old, but still good, epoxy (WEST) was used to slar all over the decks and most of the insides, even some of the cabin sides. That will be finished before dark today. I can hardly believe the epoxy still works, but it does, perfectly and so is pressed into use. In this warm weather it set very quickly. I did my usual trick of squeegeeing it on into the grain with an old credit card or Gummi, which is a sample block of silicon. Styrene will also do. I use some spare 2mm stuff I was given (that guy at IP Engineering again). The roofs had already been corrected the other evening and heavily cellulose sanding sealed. The forward cabin removeable roof was unwarped by having a tight fitting diagonal piece of pear pressed in under the top skin and glued. The new hatch on that roof was made and the shape of the roof and hatch runners changed slightly, as per drawings from this site. Here are pics. of the work today. The above resinning, the remade cabin panels a new wheelhouse bulkhead and the tow hook base panel, finally a new aft cockpit rear coaming which it never had but should have. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? It would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin

RAF ASR 1942 by CB90 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2300g RAF ASR 1942 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2860 4050kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China water cooled 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: This kit is based on an RAF ASRL Boat and is formed of High Impact Styrene for you to add your own hardware and detail. Kit includes Hull/deck/superstructure/windscreen/clear gun covers/dinghy/boat stand/servo, motor mount and instructions. Approx Length 24in x 7in 1/35th scale. HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' as the cabin looks like a whale diving. The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's

Controls problem by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good glue that Doug."Plastic Magic" I use a fine brush to apply a drop to one end of a seam and let it run down by capillary action.Puts me in mind of buying an ounce or two of Chloroform from the chemist to do the same job😋 Try and do it now.Same with ether🤔. Evo-Stik Serious glue is also pretty good too. A bit like the old polystyrene cement but not quite.👍 I agree re the testing with a Tx. It crossed my mind but shot out again😁 I have a Flower Class corvette HMCS Snowberry to do the same with. There is a blog for this on FB IIRC inc a vid of the build👍👍 Google it. Google may have yours too.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

Choose a brushless motor by CB90 Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
1. Added strakes to bow used a rectangle section of styrene as more flexible. 2. Brought a motor mount (cooled) but may also add a jacket. 3. Painted cabin will need to redo as paint cover was poor. 4. Looking to find the best brushless motor for the job, remembering these boat race on 7.4v 3300mah batteries fo 5-6 mins. That gives a ruff consumption of 33 Amps which means the motor need to be able to handle about 250Watts. I have pick out 4 to test 1. 2850 2650 kv, 800W, max 19v, max 52A. 2. 2860 4050 kv, 1300W,max 12v, max 108A. 3. 3650 3930 kv, 800W, max 13v, max 60A. 4. 2845 3100 kv, 800W, max 17v, max 47A. On paper it should be between 1. and 3., 3 being the most suited ???. So on paper motor 3. running 7.4v will give 450 watts max at (60A max current at 13v) so 7.4v should have a max a round 30A (unless stalled). giving 222W 244.2 watts target at 7.4v = 33A max for 6 mins on a 3.3ah battery if battery function is good. 33A drain will depend on the propeller size 32mm- 45mm ! A safety margin may be 30A when moving and 33A in bath. 7.4v x 3930kv = 29,082 rpm perfect for hydro, not for sub drive.

WSP 9 by CB90 Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
A very tidy build, I am building a styrene model 60cm long for fun racing as it is a police boat what about a siren / sound effects too!

British Air Sea Rescue Launch by CB90 Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Plastic Model Boat Kit WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24″ x 7″ 1/35th semi-scale. The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs. Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet. Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA. To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.

Graupner ranzow refitting by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I just thought i should mention for those of you wondering what all the polystyrene bits in the hull are for, as i mentioned at the start of this refit the boat did sink so i am not taking any further chances of it sinking again and i am filling all the empty space with polystyrene before fixing the deck in place. Ron