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>> Home > Tags > sub

sub
sub
aeronaut classic by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 32 minutes ago
I am also upgrading the prop shaft, I have purchased a 4mm shaft to use that has a decent outer casing. All other boats I have built the side chine rails have all bee 1/4 x1/4 inch rails. I am just so disappointed with some of the substandard use of certain parts. I just feel for the price they are cutting costs to up their profits on the boat. I have built a few of the older AeroKits like the RAF crash tender, Sea commander, Sea Queen and Sea Hornet as well as the Precedent Fairey Huntsman, and these all have a substantial set of side rail to fit and even the bulk head pieces are a much better thickness of ply. I would just not recommend the Aeronuat kits to anyone myself now. I was just going to fit a standard Gruapner speed 400 motor in but still unsure. I was thinking maybe a brushless may just be a bit overpowering her. but as I say still unsure, I may put in a brushless yet who knows. Keep us informed on here as to you progress I am keen to see your finished model. I suspect yours will be finished well before mine as I have shelved the build for now. Happy modelling.

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by timgarrod Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, what sub are you building as i'm making magnetic power on/off switch if there space in the WTC. cheers Tim

Upper & Lower Chines by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Thats coming on nicely and as you say it looks quite a rigid construction. How much of a bonus is a lightweight construction V an all ply construction as I assume you may have to put some ballast in the finished model. not thtat I have any experience on the subject

Arctic Privateer H441 Deep Sea Freezer Stern Trawler by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
But how do you know what shape to make the frames if you have no plans? You would have more success with a foam/plaster 'buck' where you can add and subtract until the hull shape looks like the photos. At that point you could then continue into GF or dissect the buck to get the frame shapes.

U-181 Type IX D2 by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Shadowing of U-181 from the subcam on HMS Triumph at the Naracoorte swimming lake. There are other videos and detail photos of these submarines previously posted on this site.

MK5 14" Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks Neil, found it.😉 Interesting, but I was hoping to see what it does in the wet stuff; i.e. the Domestic Test & Trials Tank 😁 Here's a quicker link to the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGiaIwMdHe8 To copy the link just click on it in the address box so that the whole address is highlighted. Then press CTRL & C to copy it. Press CTRL & V to paste it into a Post or eMail or whatever. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; the vid after yours is interesting too 'How to make a submarine out of plastic bottles and Coca Cola'. And it dives!!😁 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tq-8n4XufsQ

MK5 14" Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship by mactin Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Doug, There's a youtube vid under tinplate submarines I did a while ago its U19 and U33, its hardly Ridley Scott but you get the idea I'd like to do a better one but I need someone that knows a lot more about doing this sort of thing to give me a lift editing and the like. cheers Neil.

MK5 14" Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship by mactin Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Ahoy Mateys, Definitely not a submarine, been raiding my recycling bin again with this one. Its an idea I had to mimic a riveted hull the tin plates are dotted with a hand awl prior to soldering I think its sort of worked??? Cheers Neil mclaren clockwork submarines.

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Absolutely Steve 👍 Alternative is to make a holder for the magnet to prevent it getting knocked off by weeds etc. Also agree that any Failsafe' circuits must have an independent power supply. Place to put the switch, or latching relay, is definitely in place of the little slide switch usually supplied on the ESC. Just checked on some of my ESCs, Graupner and mTroniks, the red lead to the switch is NOT connected to the red lead supplying the RX and servos via the built in BEC. Guess the switch just triggers an FET switch inside the ESC. So the normal 500mA limit of reed switches will be enough. If a latching relay is used make sure the pull-in current is less than 500mA. Have fun All, cheers, Doug 😎 Eric; which sub is your mate building? I have a Type 1A U-Boat dynamic diver, speed and planes only, and a kit for an Akula 2 which will be a static diver, with tank etc.

Assembling the keel & adding bulkhead formers. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Now Plank on frame really sets my imagination going, I have to say that i am a builder rather than a sailor and get immense pleasure from problem solving and just creating structures. I will be looking for a suitable subject after the Crash Tender which at the moment is taking some time with fiddly bits that don't seem to advance the the overall vision of the project so apologies for the lack of "blog" Any suggestions?

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by EricMB Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi all, a friend is building a submarine and wants to turn it on remotely with a proximity switch and magnet, he needs to know where to wire it in... I thought it should be into the positive wire from the battery - am I right? Thanks in advance, Eric

new member by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Stand easy Sub. We look forward to your phizog rather than a fizzer 😁 (unless the phizog is that bad ...!😉) Hmmm! Since his registration a year ago we ain't seen nutt'n more of Davecook? Did we frighten him off?

Building my Carina sailboat from scratch by Hellmut1956 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
I have started the building from a plan I did purchase. So building from scratch is probably the right term. I am 61 years old and I have spent about a decade working on it. I use to build sailplanes as a kid and I did purchase my last sailplane shortly before leaving the university and there it is. Still, not even started working on it. In 2000 I lost my last job employed and reaching the age of 45 I was told I was already too old. So after a number of years, I did realize that I would not get hired for a job anymore and that reactivating my old hobby was a good thing to do. Being financially limited I decided to switch to a sailboat. Those do not crash as planes do and so building a sailboat from scratch looked to be a real option. I need to comment that I use to be a so-called Field Application Engineer for one of the large US semiconductor companies. Then, the career makes you develop into managerial positions. Disappointed by how salespeople worked and I shifted to sales when moving to another US semiconductor company. My active professional employed life did get me to be a Business Developer Director with one of the largest US telecommunication companies. Due to this history at a certain point of my project of building a sailboat from scratch started to have electronics and informatics becoming the dominant activity. Another topic that influenced about what I am doing on this project was due to now limited financial resources. So I decided to work on improving my workshop and to organize the many items I had been accumulating over the many years. It used to be easier for me to buy something I knew I had somewhere in my workshop. So this also influenced my activities on my workshop. Finally the heavyweight of electronics and informatic aspects of my project I started to build an electronics workbench. Sadly I do have a lot of health problems, 4 strokes, heart-stopping to beat due to side effects of medicine I was taking since I was 19 years old I got a pacemaker. Lately, I am slowed down due to being tired for many hours of the day and by suffering from a reduced concentration capability. As being positive, as having a well organized day and fascination to force that organ between my ears to work so that it can reorganize itself, I am happy working on the diverse subprojects. So the work for my project has become my focus and objective and not finishing the project.

Tarpon hardware help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Gordon, "the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I reckon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery." In that case an SLA (especially the types produced to power alarm and emergency lighting systems) would be your best bet. They can be left on trickle charge indefinitely. Two 6V in series might be better than one 12V to help with trimming out the boat. I use a pair of 6V 3Ah (about 600gm each) in my 135cm destroyer and 107cm submarine. They run for hours if I don't keep the pedal to the metal all the time. 😉 Back home I stick 'em on the trickle charger and leave 'em until the next outing. They've lasted my several years so far. Much longer than my NiMhs. An NiMh looses approx 1% of it's charge per day. So, assuming it starts fully charged, in 3 months or less it would be in Deep Discharge and have joined the Dodos😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

A577 by colindavies Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 20"/700g A577 - Comments: This model belongs to a friend of mine who had this in his attic where it got damaged and its condition deteriorated, he asked me if I would refurbish it. This is a static model and I have submitted this to help to show the variety of craft that the RAF Marine Branch operated in the 68 years of its existence. The Armoured Target Boat was the brainchild of the Air Ministry's "I've had a good idea" Department. The requirement was for a target boat that could be bombed from the air with practice bombs. The 40ft Armoured Target Boats were developed from the slightly smaller 37.5ft ATBs which had been designed by Scott-Paine and others at British Power Boat in 1932. A couple of years later, in 1934, whilst bringing the first of the 64ft HSLs into service, it was realised by the Air Ministry that the condition of the aircraft had been advancing and that it was necessary to provide additional protection to improve the first type of Armoured Target Boats (the 37.5ft type). T.E. Shaw suggested to Scott-Paine that he should increase the length of the 37.5ft type to 40ft and fit twin rudders. In addition the Air Ministry prepared a new armour plating arrangement which gave separate protection for the crew and engines and coxswain. There was a further alteration to the forward bulkhead which resulted in it being changed to vertical instead of raked fore and aft to overcome the new conditions for bombing. A long series of trials were carried out with the ballast with the 40ft type launch and eventually it was approved. The 40ft thus became the standard type Armoured Target Boat (ATB). The first batch of 15 craft of the 40ft type were ordered in 1935 with further batches being ordered in 1936, 1937 and 1938. A further addition was the introduction of a 3rd engine, this helped to maintain a good speed on the ranges, and helped to counterbalance the the boat as it had been found that in a tight turn the 37.5ft ATB had a tendency to roll over.