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>> Home > Tags > sub

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sub
Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 hours ago
Stand easy CPO 😁 Neat gadget👍 But I wanted a broadband device so I could also use it for some vintage 27 and 40MHz gear which I still use for my submarines, or just out of nostalgia. They still work so why chuck 'em out? Is also good for checking the microwave oven. I let the Web do the 'running about'😉 In the meantime I found the little handheld analyser in the pic, covers 15 to 2700MHz. Cost a tad more than 10 bucks though🤔 Greetings from 'Up Over', Doug 😎

Engel typhoon by timgarrod Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 10/10] Twin Propellors Geared - Comments: Great sub just really really heavy

Ballast by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Added 5 lbs of shot to the hull and installed sub floor.

Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Started building Deans Marine Libertyship Robert E. Perry finished Lenth 54 1/2” beam 7 1/2” weight 35 lbs. Power is Deans motor Falcon 3671 6 volt 1500rpm 3.19mm shaft and prop 147-18 brass propeller 50-L-4bl-M4. Kit is very nicely done all fittings and hardware are included with the kit. The hull is detailed and I have lined the inside of the hull with 2 x 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin to give it more rigidity. I have installed the motor and prop shaft along with the rudder which I replaced since the kit supplied rudder was cast resin and only had a 3/32 dia shaft, I’m sure it would work fine but felt better with something a little more substantial. Added 5 lbs of ballast I used shot and installed sub floor in hull. Equipment installation and deck fitting, added 1/8” plywood as deck and styrene on top.

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by astromorg Seaman   Posted: 10 days ago
Knowing v little about radio waves and antenna construction, I'm happy to accept your line. My assessment was purely on trying to identify the teardrop's purpose and matching its shape to similar units in RAF use. It was usual for ships then - merchant and military - to have a DF system and it just seems logical for a vessel with search and rescue responsibilities to have one! Positioning of nav lights was subject to complex rules in the 1950s and still is! One thing, that I don't think has changed, is that the for'd steaming light must be mounted a significant height above the red/greenside lights. The cabin roof would not be enough! Interesting that we both have similar lengths of experience associated with similar naval vessels. Maybe we crossed paths sometime gone!!

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 If the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? It's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. If DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 It's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. It can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in Integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, frigates, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi All. I found the drawing I mentioned, if you look at the numbered items you'll see that No 72 is the navigation light and No 14 is the mast crutch. There was never a stern light on either boat according to the drawing although one appears on the stern of No 93 in one of the 'photos but not in the other dry dock 'photo....perhaps it was part of a re-fit during it's service life ? Also, the mast light is not numbered or described...but it is there.... I hope I've thrown some light on the subject........I'll get my coat..

Lost Tamar Class Model Lifeboat by ads90 Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Guys Sorry to those of you who have seen my post on this subject already but just thought I would bump this post in case anyone who had not seen it might shed some light on it. Alan

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Doug: Why do we do it? So many kits, so little time. I just looked at my list...736 kits, not counting the last year’s worth of purchases. I’ve convinced myself that it’s a nest egg. My downstairs stash of 1:350 ships also has the Tamiya HMS Hood, Big E & USS Missouri. I’ve got the RMS Titanic, too & the RMS Lusitania as well. Subs of all types, a resin USS Long Beach & Bainbridge to compliment the Big E. Remember the famous “Nuclear Navy Trio” photo? I’ve attached a copy in case anyone hasn’t seen it. The 1:350 Normandie is an astounding resin cottage industry kit that I got at a very good discount but it still cost twice as much as my first car! I can send you the link to it if you like, but make sure you’re seated before you look at the price. BTW, I found sets of pre-cut, self-adhesive wood decks for the Titanic & Hood, too, I believe, & a few others, but I can’t remember which ones. They really make a model pop, for sure, but I’d be inclined to use contact cement or something so they don’t “pop” off the model. If you’re interested I can send info about those to you, too. Pete

Part1 research information by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 16 days ago
Deck From the construction hand book:- Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material. Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks. Planking 62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used. stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately. Prop shafts of real boat. All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat. propshaft angles are around 10 degrees. The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones. The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees. Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection. The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.

Winnipeg Model Boat Club by Ishmael Seaman   Posted: 18 days ago
The Winnipeg Model Boat Club was formed in 1994 by a group of enthusiasts. We build model boats of various scales and subjects, both operational and static. While not specifically a radio control club, many of our members enjoy outfitting their boats for radio control operation. We are a noncompetitive club. On Sunday mornings and Wednesday evenings throughout the spring, summer and autumn, our members can be found sailing their boats at the Riley Family Duck Pond in Assiniboine Park. In winter, we meet monthly and talk about all things model boat-related as well as discuss current projects and plans. Our annual regatta is held in May at the Riley Family Duck Pond. We also take part in a number of public displays throughout the year at HMCS Chippawa, the Red River Exhibition and the Mega Train Show. For more information about the club or how to become a member, please contact us. We also proudly support: Naval Museum of Manitoba HMCS Chippawa 1 Navy Way, Winnipeg, MB Canada

25 YEAR EVENT by RETSUB12 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi all come to our 25 year Anniversary meeting Kearsney Abbey Dover August 12th --(with a boat or not) it will be a good day 10am start with car parking for the event toilets and cafe on site and a raffle at end of day hope to see lots of you there the event will be on MODEL WORLD on YouTube---(Graham White Retsub12)

Inspiration for beautiful boat builders ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Yes Martin I agree we are a dying breed in this Virtual Reality Throw Away Rush rush world. But also please don't forget that you are a professional model builder with decades of experience. BTW: my 1/72 HMS Hotspur was absolutely scratch built. My first ever ship model, I was about 13/14 when I started it, with extremely basic hand tools. Kits out of the question and there weren't nuffink like her around anyway. Built to plans drawn up by me on foolscap paper from measurements taken from an Airfix 1/600 kit with a plastic micrometer and scaled up with a slide rule!! Remember them!? Had just started technical drawing at school, very handy. My Type IA submarine, built 30 odd years ago, was a Krick 'kit'! Ha Ha! 4 20mm planks of wood for the hull, a big lump of steel bar for the keel, crude half shell vac-formed tower, and a bag of assorted brass rod and tubing for various fittings. Some brass sheet for the dive planes. 'Thanks for the cash the rest is up to you' sort of deal! A visit to the Deutsches Museum showed up many 'simplifications' in the Krick plan so all the corrections were 'scratch' as well. Notably- Correct hull shape, correct rudder assemblies with skegs, railings, net cutters, flooding slots, wintergarden etc etc. Looks like Gina 2 is going to be a scratch rebuild from the gunn'l up as well. Actually I just thought my post might create a little wonderment and some Oohs and Aaahs, not loose off such a debate. I'll know better next time. Now back to Pete's lighting. Ciao, Doug

Port holes by Delboy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
At risk of appearing to teach monkeys to suck eggs or grandmas to climb trees... Upon pondering the subject of potholes; plans always show them as port holes and after-build photographs show them as painted black circles. I know what I prefer. On line purchases of brass port holes can be not cheap. I've found that normal brass eyelets with a blob of Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze in the hole dries to a passable imitation of the real thing. I appreciate that you are just swapping the painstaking painting of rows of black circles with painstakingly drilling a row of holes and gluing them in but if you question the sanity of building a miniature boat then it all seems quite normal. And if you have any issues, take them up with my mate Popeye.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
I stand corrected Rule 30! —INTERNATIONAL— Lights and Shapes Rule 30 Anchored Vessels and Vessels Aground (a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen: (i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; (ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light. (b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule. (c) A vessel at anchor may, and a vessel of 100 meters and more in length shall, also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks