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The gun deck isn't modeled. I was building a model intended to sail in open water and didn't want to deal with open gun ports, hatches, etc. After glassing the hull, she got beams for the spar deck installed. 3/4" x 3/4", they're probably a bit more than was needed. Tubes were installed for 5/16" stainless threaded rods that would hold her external ballast on. The forward one will be disguised as her galley stovepipe, the aft one is hidden under the cabin skylight. The ballast is a 2" i.d. PVC pipe about 4 feet long, filled with lead bird-shot, and weighing some 42 pounds. With that much done, I took her to the creek to see her float, but I forgot the rods. A few days later I took her out again, remembering the rods, and put her lower masts in her. Now baptized, I applied the moldings and trim on her stern, and built up her enclosed head. Her gunport were molded in resin in the closed position with the guns clamped in the openings and a tampion in the muzzles. These were epoxied into gunports cut from the outer layer of glass and wood battens, leaving the matting in place as a backer. Then she got some paint, mainly because I was getting tired of her looking like a barkless log. The bottom was painted with copper paint, but three rolls of 1/2" wide peel-n-stick tape had just arrived and I started into coppering her bottom right off. Copper plates are nailed on with copper nails with counter-sunk heads through pre-punched holes in the copper sheets. The are FLAT with with a little hollow where they're driven in just beyond flush with the surface. They are NOT round headed nor look like rivets as so many models insist are doing. I pressed an impression of the nails into the face of each plate. Installing them pushes this dent back out and leaves a little circle that looks as it should. It took about a week to do one side, and I took a break to make the tops for the lower masts, then continued onto coppering the other side. It was bright and beautiful when finished, but it wouldn't stay that way. Copper doesn't turn green when submerged, any copper coin will show you it turns brown. I wanted her bottom to brown somewhat, but not too much, and I figured to let that happen naturally. When it got where I wanted it, I'd clear-coat it to lock it in. Two yards of Dupont Supplex cloth was ordered to make her sails. This is the stuff SC&H used on their square-rigger kits and it's great for making sails. Being a nylon, you cut it with a hot-knife, and use a pointed tip in a soldering iron to make grommets. I drew on the panel seams with a .03 marker as even the finest stitching is over scale even at 1:36. Top-cloths, corner reinforces, reef bands, etc, are all cut from the same cloth and glued on with fabric adhesive. The only sewing was of the bolt-ropes. These are done by hand much the way real ones are - I've sewn a few miles of real bolt ropes in my time. There's really no substitute for this if you want a functional scale appearing sail. A machine can't sew it properly, in the right position, or securely.
Hi Wayne I did warn you about the noise. I also have complaints about the smell but I do use a heated bed and my printer is not in an enclosure. I have to agree that a usb stick is the best option to use as the timescale can be hours if not days and adding a PC and LAN to the equation does not help. I bought my printer to make originals that I can then make castings off. I can take any CAD drawing and scale to any size so the process is both quick and straightforward. As you have found there is a wealth of subject matter on line. Whilst a 3D printer is great for small quantities it is not so good if you intend mass production. Many hearing printer perhaps believe the 3D process will be just as quick when in fact it is anything but quick. I have to ask, how are you progressing with the Arduino? Have fun Dave
Hi Marky The books suggested are a good starting point but like most things electronic the modern equipment is far different from that seen in most books on the subject. The basic principles may be the same but the Tx/Rx will be from the period when the book was originally published. As well as the books suggested it might help if you were to buy a copy of Model Boats or Marine Modelling International to see what is currently available and how current kit is used and installed. It can be daunting when you first start out but you can always post a topic on the Forum to seek help. Dave
This topic went in a strange tangent ,being new to this addiction I set up in the spare bedroom its incredible how much I have accumulated in such a short time ,and how suddenly folk need to use the spare room I think its a subtle plan to make sure I tidy up and don't expand to far. already in the kitchen (general fabrication)and the greenhouse (spray booth)
Hi Doug This site has always been a mine of info for early RC gear. I have built many of the suggestions and have a good supply of spares and motors for the Skyleader servos including the Ferranti chips. Servos are so cheap to buy today that it really isn't worth my time to build. Restoring an old set is enjoyable but I abandoned 27Mhz a few years ago and 40Mhz is going the same way unless you are into submersibles. I still have all my old books and mags on RC prior to the proportional era and it all seems so basic compared to what we have now. Dave
A GRANDE RICHIESTA! as you asked me how I did it! It is very simple! ehm not so much but: you take the lobster (minipig submarine u16 new) take out delicately the pincers (the two motors) paying attention to isolate the cables for each motors, than take away from the body the fruit (the intere block including internal battery, receiver and jack to charge) than I substitued the two motor pillars of the original fairplay kit with the two mini sub pillars very similar in sembiance and proportions, painted than reconnect the cables of the two motors with tiny cable joint to the "fruit" fixed on the exact balanced centre of the ship hull (you can see by the photos: it is right between the two main internal hollow septs). You can use the front submarine lights to enlight the fairplay lower cabins. Take care it is a nonconventional very difficult and nerve raking work but with a little help (from my friends? Noo nobody here) from the lady luck instead you can obtain the result of a mad - merely responding to command - foolish steering - lovable tugboat. hope this pics can help (Excuse me but I sealed the fruit before fixing to the hull with a lot of electric tape and sealing paint to waterproof it! So I haven't images of it naked but it is a quite simple structure! 😱 P.S. Excuse for my neapolitan-deformed english I can't do better!
I used the stack two motors; the circuits and the esc so as the control radio of the tiny submarine i got for the purpose; the weight was right to float correct by the waterline; you can see it on a video on my little Youtube channel (look at Salvatore Mazzarella ) rescuing a sunseeker predator yacht with many glamour ladies in the bathub. P.S. unfortunately I am still living at work!
That's exactly how my HMS Hotspur destroyer started! 👍 Free running with two rattly Mabuchis and a flat 4.5V dry cell battery! Granny and Grandad took pity and bought me a 6V 'Lantern' battery! Progress 😊 The Sea Scout my Dad built (which I'm now renovating) was very modern .. Taycol Target and 6V wet accumulator! And yes, that kit cost 35 bob, substantial chunk of a week's wages! Oh happy days .. Or ... !? Both had to wait another 20 years until I could afford RC, an Irvine / Sanwa Conquest FM6, sitting on my desk now (wonder where the antenna went?), it still works! 35Mhz!! Well what did I know?? 🤔 Anyway, my excuse is I originally bought it for the little Wren biplane I had built for my daughter, a German kit called Zaunkönig in German - literally 'Fence King'. Still have the plane, thinking of converting it from glow-plug to brushless. Micro servos and LiPos already purchased 😉 DHL just promised me that tomorrow the rest of the bits for the Sea Scout refit will arrive, including Royal Blue paint. 😊 So much to do - so little time 🤔 Happy building and happier sailing. Cheers Doug 😎
I had previously assembled and primed the anchor, having added a little additional detail to the white metal castings, as described in a previous blog update. I subsequently added some plasticard pieces to the arm of the anchor to thicken it slightly so that I could fit a small brass shackle as a finishing detail. The final paint finish is Tamiya gunmetal metallic to match some other deck fittings. The anchor is held in place on the foredeck by a small double sided adhesive foam pad beneath the anchor base and the mounting pad it sits on. The base and arm is also retained on two other mounting pads buy couple of ‘staples’ that were formed by heating and bending some thin Plasticard rod into shape and they are just a push fit into some holes drilled into the mounting pads. The fixings are quite secure but as with many other items of deck furniture it can be easily removed for maintenance or repair. Sorry this is not a particularly exciting or interesting post but the next will be the suction hoses and fittings which were quite a challenge and will hopefully be a great deal less boring 😜
I often visit the British Pathe site, which has an archive of over 60,000 film clips covering an infinite range of subjects, going back to the beginning of the 20th century. I have wasted many hours looking at it. However, if you visit the site and punch in Miniature Mariners, (www.britishpathe.com/video/miniaturemariners/query/miniature+mariners), you will find an interesting selection from 1929, that includes the still extant Victoria Park Club running a hydroplane with a huge audience. The clips finish with a truly awesome liner model of about 40 feet length and apparently sea-going. The information board ( it was a silent film in 1929) tells us very little: it is French and 40 foot long. I know that it is a long time ago and French but do any other sailors know more about this?