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>> Home > Tags > sub

New to Forum by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
well back in the day (when Noah was building the ark) and I was serving me time :-) we used to have a golden rule about ferrous and non-ferrous metals and solder - Ferrous metals and alloys contain iron and they tend to rust; non-ferrous materials do not. . such as brass, copper and so forth and these are the easy ones to solder with soft solder. Ferrous metails which contain iron as we have said - we need to use a harder solder such as brazing silver solder and then we are into the field of Welding. Basically the art of soldering is to find out the type of materials we intend to join together and then we can come up with the appropriate method. Stainless steel is a different world altogether and so is aluminium. Hell of a subject to get into 🤓

Precedent Fairey Huntsman by bthart Apprentice   Posted: 4 days ago
I have for sale an unfinished Fairey Huntsman 31, I started it approx 9 months ago as a project with my grandson but his attention has now turned to model railways, subsequently I have now lost interest in completing and sailing it, the boat is approx 90% complete and comes with new RC equipment battery motor etc, I am looking for £250 just to recoup the costs and to put to his new model railway. I live inStoke-on-Trent if anybody would like to have a look,

U49 Mclaren Clockwork Submarines. by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Martin, Your Subs are very nice, beautiful workmanship! Your skill at tin work is inspiring. Joe

Help with vintage rc. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Good point Dodgy,👍 which I also emphasised about a year or so ago in a similar discussion about vintage kit. I still have some 35 year old kit, Sanwa and McGregor which is still going strong. Still works so why chuck it away? Apart from that my 2.4Gig gear is no use for subs! So my 20 odd year old 40Meg set gets pressed into service for my Type 1A U Boat. Still have a few 27Meg sets JFF😉 Cheers, Doug😎

Rudder location, blocking, fabrication by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Looking at the proper rudder location, I added some 1/4 triangular hardwood blocking to both sides of the centerboard. Needed blocking to drill through. Was able to pickup the work board and all fit under my drill press to keep the hole plumb. Rudder post will be a 1/4 brass rod with brass tube as a bushing. See photo, brass tube in hull. Next, I built a rudder substructure assembly which will be covered later with a wood or styrene full size rudder to fit the era. Took some very thin brass and formed it around the post, some brass plate and soldered as seen in photos. Brass heats up and solders well using my soldering station.

U49 Mclaren Clockwork Submarines. by mactin Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Colin, Thank you,very much appreciated. As for tinsmithery its not something iv'e ever been trained to do but for my sins I was an RN stoker many years ago. Cheers Neil.

U49 Mclaren Clockwork Submarines. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Any chance of clockwork torpedoes as well, no seriously I think your modelling skills are some of the best I have ever seen. We're you ever a tinsmith, keep up the good work. Cheers Colin.

U49 Mclaren Clockwork Submarines. by mactin Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
Ahoy Mateys,17 inch, U49 has a 3 plate hull made from an old Panettone tin,it has two ballast tanks and a powerful single spring clockwork motor. The diving planes are a through hull type and quite large because its bit of a lump to dynamic dive, to assist diving it has 350g of lead trim in the bilge.

Folding Bulwark????! by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hello John Thank you for looking into this subject on my behalf. Much appreciated! What did you use as a search online because I have spent time trying to find any helpful cargo loading images and have not found an example. Did you save any of the images. Things like this and even such as correct doors present problems because the details are not on the plans. If you can give me a lead that would be great. I will now have another search. Toby

Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Thanks for your advice gentlemen. I have finished the deck and it doesn't look too bad. Before painting, however, it will need careful preparation. Whilst searching the internet for help, I came across this tutorial which some of you may find helpful. Cheers Steve

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC machines work off G Code. The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC machines will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...

Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
B&Q tester pots are a bit bigger and they mix to match. In fact i think they are called Match Pots.👍

Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Steve, That is the right colour. For a model that size consider just buying three or four tinlets. For my Fairmile D I needed much more, so had it mixed up at a local paint store once I got a tinlet and painted the colour on a test board. If you have it mixed you end up with at least 500ml. This colour photo shows the deck on a Fairmile D.

Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
I have established that the decks on these vessels were planked and usually painted RN Dark Grey Blue B15. Whilst I can source this paint in small amounts, typically 17ml, I am unable to find it in larger amounts. The boat is 82cm long x 22cm beam. Can anyone help please? Thank you Steve

Cabin detail part 6 panel light by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Cabin detail part 6 panel light The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing circuit board. (this came as a kit for just £3:90) The circuit board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a video of it working. The LEDs on the circuit board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.