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>> Home > Tags > submarine

deans marine
marine esc
marine modelling
marine models
u35 clockwork submarine
Tinplate submarine motors more toys than models but I like em by haleskevin Petty Officer   Posted: 4 hours ago
Beautiful! Excellent. Not a toy by any means. You sir are an engineer. Cheers

Tinplate submarine motors more toys than models but I like em by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
Cos "the other is in the Albert Hall" 😉 Nice one 'Cyril' 😎

Tinplate submarine motors more toys than models but I like em by mactin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 hours ago
Ahoy Mateys, Bit of fun ive knocked up its a compressed air submarine motor in place of a clockwork one for one of my tin can sludgemarines. It is charged with a bicycle pump and runs for about a minute,not built the boat yet. I call it my Hitler engine because its only got one ball. Cheers MacT.

Seabreacher by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Hi Steve Plenty of suggestions being made. I use waterjets and you should be aware of the max revs quoted by the manufacturer. You exceed this figure at your own risk. I agree with the previous comments regarding brushless delivering far more power if powered by Lipo. Ballast is a crucial part of the equation and the Sea Breacher has a large volume of air in its hull which makes it very buoyant. Like a sub perhaps some form of ballast tank that can be vented may be worth considering. You really need to speak with someone who is into submersibles as they have the experience and knowledge of how best to proceed. The Model Boat Convention is on next weekend and they sometimes have submariner modellers in attendance. Good luck Dave

basic submarine commission build wanted by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I need a sub! tried it many times and failed. All I want is a dorsal fin, and tail fin to resemble a shark, and the top of the hull/body. Needs to be 18 inches or so. I want it to submerse to dorsal fin depth, forwards, left and right. I have am mmb subsonic hull, an auto leveller, the tx and rx, just cant sort it. (some pics attached) Anybody have something to sell, or want a commission build? Thanks Paul

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Dave, Yep, agree, to a certain extent. I have also had surprising results with 385 / 400 sizes; for instance with my 110cm heavy and cramped submarine. On the surface it outruns most boy racers 😁 Not exactly scale but all good fun. A little down angle on the forward planes and it throws up a beautiful handlebar moustache of water 😊 Not too much angle at speed or it sticks it's tail in the air 😲 No, the main question was that Fred already has the 700s so I simply suggested a decent match, 5mm shaft and so on. If he wants to spend on more motors fine. the the 3mm shaft would surely save weight, mostly through the smaller tube. Don't know the rest of the detail of the boat; beam, draft, safe waterline etc, but I would have thought a 3 footer would have a reasonable carrying capacity, like my 3 and 4 foot warships. Most of those run on multiple Speed 600s. And there I have the usual warship high length to beam ratio and associated stability problems! Like I said; he pays his money and takes his choice. Personally I would give it a whirl with the 700s since they are in the box! Maybe though with a 3 or 4mm shaft and appropriate coupling so he can adapt later if he wants to. Would still think a pair of 35 props would do the trick. Whatever, have fun Fred. Look forward to the Sea trials Report! (Wrote, read and commented enough of 'em in my old job!) Cheers Doug 😎 Oh no! Yet another thunderstorm just started, my terrace is already swamped 🤔

Dont throw your tins out. by mactin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
U37 Just finished I prefer this to putting stuff in the light green bin. 22" tinplate clockwork submarine fully functional diving and resurfacing. cheers Neil

Firing Battleship at Wings & Wheels (UltraHD/4K) by Dom of Essential RC Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Never seen an RC Battleship that actually simulates firing of its weapons. This was great to watch. Complimented by a submarine crash diving and surfacing!

Dont throw your tins out. by mactin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mark, yes fully nailed up with solder,the key is a long thing that goes down the funnel. this particular hull is made from go system gas cans (empty of course) but if any tins do have any form of coating I leave it on and paint over it. the only bit that needs to be sanded is the bit you are soft soldering. Theres a construction bit on my site cheers Neil

Dont throw your tins out. by mactin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi mbws, Latest recycled tin effort,looking forward to boaty thing in Heywood Grt Manchester in September, I literally live ten mins away! The boats 20" long and made entirely from tinplate the clockwork motor was a Big Ben alarm clock. cheers Neil.

Servos & motor having a wobbly by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Eric, yes there is - put two chokes with ferrite cores in the leads to the motor. Mount them as close to the motor as possible with a 0.47 uF capacitor across the output ends (closest to the motor). See attached pics of such installed in my Type IIA submarine. Not quite as good as direct on the motor can but , 'better than a slap in the face with a frozen haddock' 😉 Your local model shop (or Maplins? etc) should be able to supply the chokes. They are also used in the auto industry to suppress ignition interference on car radios etc. Cheers Doug 😎

Best Tx systems for boats by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) It's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX crystal sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) It can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by saintsalvio Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
A GRANDE RICHIESTA! as you asked me how I did it! It is very simple! ehm not so much but: you take the lobster (minipig submarine u16 new) take out delicately the pincers (the two motors) paying attention to isolate the cables for each motors, than take away from the body the fruit (the intere block including internal battery, receiver and jack to charge) than I substitued the two motor pillars of the original fairplay kit with the two mini sub pillars very similar in sembiance and proportions, painted than reconnect the cables of the two motors with tiny cable joint to the "fruit" fixed on the exact balanced centre of the ship hull (you can see by the photos: it is right between the two main internal hollow septs). You can use the front submarine lights to enlight the fairplay lower cabins. Take care it is a nonconventional very difficult and nerve raking work but with a little help (from my friends? Noo nobody here) from the lady luck instead you can obtain the result of a mad - merely responding to command - foolish steering - lovable tugboat. hope this pics can help (Excuse me but I sealed the fruit before fixing to the hull with a lot of electric tape and sealing paint to waterproof it! So I haven't images of it naked but it is a quite simple structure! 😱 P.S. Excuse for my neapolitan-deformed english I can't do better!

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by saintsalvio Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I used the stack two motors; the circuits and the esc so as the control radio of the tiny submarine i got for the purpose; the weight was right to float correct by the waterline; you can see it on a video on my little Youtube channel (look at Salvatore Mazzarella ) rescuing a sunseeker predator yacht with many glamour ladies in the bathub. P.S. unfortunately I am still living at work!

Fair play X by saintsalvio Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] - Comments: Very beautiful 1/144 Revell kit: added micromotors from a tiny submarine I love it: it really works (in his scale! It Push and Pull hard!