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>> Home > Tags > superstructure

superstructure
instructions
superstructure
Layout and Limitations by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.

Painting and detailing superstructure by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Agree with postioning Dave, not 100% acurate, but close enough for me.

Painting and detailing superstructure by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Right numbers, but not necessarily placed as on the original. Still looks good

Another day of progress by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
A good day of adding detail to the superstructure. Todays acheivments included soldering the antenna mounts, antennas from carbon rod. all stanchion railings, horn, some grab handles, hatch handles. finished the day when bad light stopped play with a little paint touch up and some highlight dry brushing. Still to do, mount working searchlight, lifebelt, grab poles,nav lights, roof antennas, front hatch, radar mounting and motor for it with a few other tiny bits n bobs before laquer and windows.

Painting and detailing superstructure by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Good progress on superstructure so far. base coat orange applied, anti-dazzel black applied. have started the weathering process on the doors hatches ect and applied the lettering. Not sure how acurate the applied lettering acuracy is, but I am happy with it. I have monday and tuesday off work (Sunday I am being tasked in the garden!) so plan on building, painting and adding the wiper blocks and wipers, all handrails, stanchions, lighting, horn, searchlight, twin antennas, all roof wire work, lifebelt, RNLI Flag and pole, motor for radar and grapple poles. Once all thats added, the whole superstructure less the anti-dazzle panels will get a couple of coats of gloss laquer before I pop in the glazing. Plan is to finish the superstructure completly before moving back to the hull.

Her Majesty's Savior by circle43nautical Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
That's a great model kit. I have built several Dumas kits over the years and have never been disappointed. They allow you to use your imagination and skills; but my first RC project some28 years ago was a Billings Boats 1:20 USCG 44 foot Motor Lifeboat like yours with an ABS hull and wood superstructure. To be honest, I've been working on her for as long as I've been a father! Always adding details or overhauling, I reckon. A couple of years ago I took her apart and repainted the hull. Now I am periodically reassembling her with 52' Motor Lifeboathe original fittings. My present project is a Barracuda RC Boats 1:12 USCG 52' Motor Lifeboat, of which there are only three kits world-wide. The actual MLB "Triumph" (CG-52301, 2 were built in 1935) was lost with all hands during a rescue attempt off Cape Disappointment, WA in January 1961. My Father built strong aircraft, and I always preferred boats. I overbuild my boats in the same manner. My weakness is that I can't wait for the glue to dry. Looks good & keep up the great work! GO CUBS!

Fairplay V (Hegi) rebuild / refit by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, shortnozzle and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.

Fairmile D - MGB623 and MTB741 by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Both Fairmile D boats 1/24 scale and are scratch built. They have both been about 6 years in operation. MGB623 is an MGB, flying the Norwegian flag and belongs to a good friend. Mine is MTB741. It is powered by 2 Graupner Speed 700 12V motors with NiMH batteries. The 6 pdrs and 20mm guns can rotate. It has a balsa planked hull and fibreglass skin. Decks and superstructure are also balsa. Guns are from tinplate and brass.

Brixham trawler IBEX by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi bellman, (from Doug BELL😉) This is another 'How long is a piece of string question'! Only way to find out is to build it, and do a payload test. Put weight in it until it floats to the waterline and upright and stable. I use chunks of lead and lead balls (fishing weights). Weigh the lead. Easiest way is to weigh the empty hull first, then again with 'payload'. Difference is your payload weight for the hull, including all equipment, decks, superstructure etc. Before you glue any other parts to the hull weigh them and subtract from the payload test weight as you go. When compete you should then know how much weight you have left available for equipment. Weigh the equipment; motors, shafts, electronics, batteries etc. Anything 'left over' is the ballast you need. Try to fit it inside as low as possible, the lead balls are good for final trimming. When all is correct simply pour a little resin over them to hold them in place. Only time I fitted ballast outside, a long steel bar keel, was on my U26 sub. But then U Boats had such an emergency 'drop keel' so it looked 'Right'! Happy building, Doug 😎

Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 26" Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) Single Propellor (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and soundmodule with speaker. It's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'.

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi AllenA, LOL! I think you're referring to my post "Local Boatshow" in the Boat Harbour section. Doesn't matter. Happy to read that I'm perfectly fine! I'm just new here and have no idea how active this forum is. I happened to stumble over this forum while searching RC boat photo's on the web, and thought: Well why not drop a question here. (not knowing at that time that I would spend half the afternoon posting pics of my own fleet...and I haven't even finished yet...) Back on topic: I'm curious to see what advise I get over here regarding the Fairplay V. I might even keep up a build blog over here. I like the classic - almost yacht like - sheerline and superstructure. And this model is compared to the Banckert, Bugsier, Kalle or Torben tugs slightly wider and heavier; which will give this tug just a bit bigger wavepattern...

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
The resin detailed doors hatches etc where money well spent from macs mouldings. I took think the shape of the old fashioned hull has heaps of character!

Adding superstructure detail by AllenA Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Love the shape of the deck and the cabin door is superb.

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Some close ups of details

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.