Working on the hull and superstructure ,The hold lifts out to allow access my brothers going to do the mechanical side for me he has a motor no details yet , battery pack etching will be in the hold covered by dummy coal ,That's the theory anyway
Very neat job, Doug. On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him. What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire. Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT! Cheers, Martin
Hi Ron, mark the 'real' waterline, the LWL (Load Waterline) as on your plan. Then load the boat (in the domestic Test Tank😉) down to that line then you know what she can carry, including any missing deck and superstructure of course! See test I just did for my fish cutter 'Gina 2'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: seal and prime the hull when you wish, I do final finishing / polishing when all major internal works are done, and especially after prop shaft tubes and rudder stock are fitted and 'fettled in'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Applies just as well to renovations and new builds! BUT more power to your elbow for scratch building 👍
See below reply from an ex RAF man The overseas colours are interesting and the link toRAF boats is really good "Hi Michael. when i joined the RAF in 1956 the boats that were specifically for the sunderland flying boats that were being decommissioned and I only saw one fire tender and the colour of the hull was black the main deck was I think bare wood with the well decks and superstructure painted grey with and the top painted white except when overseas the hull of all raf boats were white. Have a look at www.rafboats.co.uk and and you may find one on there. Regards Trev Secretary york model boat club"
Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎
Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!) Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then. Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos. First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. If any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin. I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place. Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉 I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too! Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓
I've been pondering a neodymium magnet on a derrick on the stern of my Southampton tug and steel plates set into the foredecks of my boat and ships! Still pondering, reeling in with a winch is easy, running out the cable to drop the magnet down onto the boat is causing me mechanical headaches though. 😡 Maybe just raising and lowering a suitable boom would be easier!? Any ideas folks, especially amongst you winch using sailors? First time my destroyer conked out I swam out 'in me knickers' to rescue it cos the wind was pushing it towards the lake fountains. It's NOT a flying boat! Got a round of applause and some interesting suggestions from some of the er 'ladies' present 😲😉 Second time we had flat calm on a balmy summer evening and she started very slowly drifting home. So as it was early evening we went to the lakeside restaurant terrace where I could enjoy a steak and a glass or two while keeping an eye on her progress. Hard life ain't it 😉 Whatever, I'm sure there's a more elegant solution than more plumbing than there is in my bathroom! I even once used my sharp pointed destroyer to push a failed plastic RTR so called speed boat home. Took a lot of manoeuvring with a long thin destroyer but we made it. Once I managed to get it lined up and close enough to shore a good shove with all ahead flank then full astern let it run up the shore. Was good helmsmanship practise. A simple shaped rubber block I could hang over the bow would have made it much easier! Cheers all, don't get stuck! Doug 😎 PS One other 'Schnapps idea' as they might call it here in Bavaria, I've been playing with for a while is a model of the 'Big Lifter'. It's a conveyor ship like a big powered dry dock. To take on the load she floods huge tanks and sinks herself😲 slides under the load, pumps the water out again and up she comes load an' all! Would be fun wouldn't it?😉 All the bridge and accommodation superstructure and engine rooms are in the stern. At the bow there are only two tall towers for guidance when taking on the load. The rest is just flat loading deck. Sounds simple don' it 😁 an' a lot more fun than half the plumbing dept. of B&Q. 👍 PPS: I also tried the grab claw idea of Martin's. A sort of 4 prong grappling hook. As he rightly said the first snag is to get the line aboard the stricken vessel in the first place. I tried it with one of the depth charge derricks on the stern of my destroyer. Reeling in - fine. Getting the line out ? Another kettle of fish. I considered a spring-loaded system to fire the line out IF I could make the winch free run to pay out! Got no further than considering (the spring launcher I still have) before I completely stripped out the destroyer for a total refit. Thinks, thinks, thinks ......
Dropping down aft from the boat deck are the tow hooks, why there are two hooks, I have no idea, but that's what is shown on the drawing. Taking the dimensions from the drawing the main part was made up of plasticard and bits of brass tube, the two hooks were made from brass sheet and soldered together, the hoop that these run on goes through the superstructure and is fastened with nuts on the inside. To the side of the tow hooks is an exhaust with silencer, this was made out of aluminium on the lathe with bits of brass tube, also on this platform are two coal hatches, again made out of plasticard and wood with painted staples as handles.
Hi Both, All the mouldings look identical to the Southampton and Richardson. The hull and stand are the same as my 'Southampton', the superstructure the same as the Richardson?, but with a red roof😆? Maybe they ran out of grey and white plastic 😁
Added a flexi drive, after fining out they were permissible in the rules of our semi-scale racing it came from a spare boat and a rudder to the transom (not allowed to have extended rudders or surface drives) I picked a rudder on the transom also because I had a spare one kicking around (save some money) and I have had trouble with water ingress with rudder tubes at higher speeds. Also added trim tabs to the transom and a servo for the rudder. primed the superstructure and added a locking screw (plastic) to hold it in place.
It has been a busy time at work which means that I have very limited time to build at the moment. All things considered all is going well. I have started the superstructure. The components are requiring a lot of additional work to fit them. I am glad about this as it is all good experience. My sandpaper and files are glowing due to over use. I have found a very useful filler at my local model shop made by Red Devil. It is extremely light and sets in a very short time; ten minutes. It says that it can be painted after ten minutes. Don`t think I will test this. I have fitted the deck and sanded down the hull sides to match. I think the weather is almost good enough to start the painting. I am still a little concerned about this particularly with the use of masking tape. I am worried that the previous layers which are covered by the tape will peel on removal. Can anybody tell me how long to allow paint to dry before applying tape and how long can the tape stay in place. I am using Tamiya tape. I have decided to illuminate most of the lights and will make a module for flashing the blue light. I have lots of electronic components here as I enjoy making prototype circuits. Unfortunately, my love of making these boards is not matched with a knowledge of exactly how they work so I am sure I will be asking for help with the circuit diagram. I have all the components here.🤓 Well that all for now. I am currently constructing all of the deck items. This I find more difficult due to the manipulation of very small parts having `sausage fingers`. Must buy more tweezers!!😊
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2300g RAF ASR 1942 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2860 4050kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China water cooled 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: This kit is based on an RAF ASRL Boat and is formed of High Impact Styrene for you to add your own hardware and detail. Kit includes Hull/deck/superstructure/windscreen/clear gun covers/dinghy/boat stand/servo, motor mount and instructions. Approx Length 24in x 7in 1/35th scale. HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' as the cabin looks like a whale diving. The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's
I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔
Hi Donnieboy, I'm going to paint the superstructure. 90 Beige Green Matt - 150ml Acrylic Spray Paint. by Humbrol #AD6090! This will help for the Tug to stand out on the ponds! With olive drab for contrast! But I'm taking my time with the project. Because I may also be going to put deck light. and running lights as well!