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>> Home > Tags > superstructure

superstructure
instructions
superstructure
Fibreglass the hull by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.

Fibreglass the hull by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Michael. I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence. I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface. If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks. I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡. It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose. Keep up the great work. Robbob.

S10 by Will-I-Am Seaman   Posted: 7 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 36"/1500g S10 Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a Graupner jumbo 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronik (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from a Vic Smeed plan in 1986, fibreglass hull, wood and plasticard and plasticard superstructure and various plastic, wood and metal fittings.

KD Perkasa by sajdlj00 Seaman   Posted: 16 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 37"/5000g KD Perkasa Triple Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a RS 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Action Electronics P80 ESC - Comments: The kit was purchased over 40 years ago and after the bare hull and superstructure was built it languished in my shed until I retired. Being new to this RC modelling business I gleaned much from the internet. A few deck items were purchased but the bulk were scratch built, both from the kit and by my own fair hand, and maybe not to scale. Its not exactly the Perkas but then I'm no expert. She has yet to be launched when I can find time to get to a local model boating lake.

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

Unknown by Ballast Captain   Posted: 24 days ago
Looks like it could be a Thames Steam Tug, I'm not sure ! I have just acquired this lovely hull and I am not sure of it's build or origin. It is fibreglass and is 57" (1450mm) LOA X 14.5" (370mm) Beam. It has a very basically built superstructure which I don't think is appropriate. I would be very grateful if anyone has any idea what she is and any other information as to weather it was a kit that has been modified. I would love more information as to scale etc. Regards your shipmate. Ballast AKA Alan.

Grimmershorn II by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 40"/5000g Grimmershorn II Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 70mm) Direct Drive to a 950 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 12Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 15A 24v (5Amps) ESC - Comments: The Motor vessel 'Grimmershorn' was built in 1956/57 by Hansa Stahlund Schiffbau GmbH at Koln-Deutz for the Waterways and Shipping Administration at Cuxhaven.Her Daimler-Benz four stroke diesel engine had an output of 500hp. permitting a speed of 11.5 knots. The model hull and deck are vacuum formed ABS, timber work of precision cut ply, 2 full size plan sheets and a construction manual along with a fittings pack complete this kit. Technical Data Scale: 1:20 Length: 1038mm Beam 305mm The Grimmershorn was the second major kit I purchased from a model shop on the outskirts of Harlow in Essex back in the 1980s. The Krik kit is still produced and sold today. My build was a slow and lost enthusiasm so after completing the hull, deck, motor and bow thruster installation I gave the boat to my father in-law who completed the superstructure and sailed the boat for a while, eventually the boat was given back to me when the father in-law moved house. I then repaired the rudder, added a moving radar, a adjustable water cannon and pump also various extra fittings such as a detailed life raft and crane, buoys and captain figure. thus renamed the boat as Grimmershorn II a Search and rescue fire boat.

1-35 scale S100 schennllboot blog by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared buy both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat . the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup

Handrails! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hand rails temperately placed! Am thinking of painting the handrails black or a dark green! Haven't decided which green to contrast the light green Main cabin and pilot house will be painted a light green! I have decided to paint the superstructure. Beige green #90! by hombrol. and maybe light green #120 for contrast! The original Brooklyn was a dark green. the whole entire boat was dark green. No details what so ever. My Brooklyn is going to be painted different. But, I will use green as her primary colors!

MTB741 Fairmile D by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 58"/9000g MTB741 Fairmile D Capable of 9mph and a runtime of 65mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700BB 12V (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (12v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 30A Tio x 2 (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. It took 3.5 years. Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then fibreglassed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is Futaba 2.4 GHz

Roof Skins by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
do it!! I regretted it the minute I had finished my 4 footer. So this is a 3 foot boat, glass hull (cant remember where it came from) the rest is scratch. Superstructure plastic, with ply formers etc, virtually all fittings hand made from brass. Davit worked, windows opened (inc rear ones) and so on. Sadly he passed away prior to paint, so I finished it, and returned to his wife in a glass box.

Sanding down. by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached. The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures. I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do. If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful. I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁 I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😡 I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below. One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long. Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.🤔

wyeforce 2 by dragon Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
One month on, new photos showing progress made to date lower superstructure and wheelhouse made motors,props,shafts and Korts fitted in hull. see you next month.

1 Month on with Build by dragon Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Lower front superstructure and Wheelhouse made but still need finishing as does the hull. the Korts props and motors are all that's been done in the hull but they do all work. see you next month

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, Chris, No Chris yours wasn't the thread I was thinking of but this https://model-boats.com/search/Hobby-Engine-Richardson-Upgra... Same model just a different name. The transducer idea was sparked off I think by a video of 'Noisy Thing' in an RAF launch - by PMDEVLIN I think. If we'd seen your thread we might have said that fitting the transducer horizontally under the deck is not the best idea. That also directs the sound upwards and the deck is too stiff, due to coamings and superstructure etc, to resonate with the transducer. Recommendation is to fit to the hull on either side, wired in series so that two 4Ohm transducers give the 8Ohm load impedance needed by most amps. The idea is to bring the hull sides to vibrate thus acting as a 'speaker cone' and project the sound sideways across the water and not straight up. They should be fitted to the largest flattish area available for maximum effect. I like the 'sound-palettes' idea 👍 Let us know how it goes, Doug 😎