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>> Home > Tags > superstructure

superstructure
instructions
superstructure
SeaSpray by pjarrett Petty Officer   Posted: 10 hours ago
[Score: 8/10] 38"/5000g SeaSpray Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a MFA 850 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Purchased as kit around 1972, fibre glass hull with ply deck and superstructure. Had many changes and refits over the years and was originally fitted with and OS Marine glow engine which gave good performance and was quiet! Changed to the MFA electric motor with ESC. Installed two LiPo batteries which makes the hull well balanced and allows the deep V hull design to plane as designed. Have designed and made two electro-magnetic lifting sticks which help me raise and lower the boat into the water. Age related launching aid!

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.

M. V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results. Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned. The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model. The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling! Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly. Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3400g USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 775 Johnson type (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Dimart 320A Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1:48 scale Replica of USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), fiberglass hull & 3/4" plywood cabin/superstructure, molded by Al Mergens @ Coast Guard Models in Elk Grove Village, IL. Most likely the last Bay Class hulls that Al will produce, as he is retiring from this craft soon. I wish I could afford to relieve him of the molds; he has one for just about every USCG cutter and coastal craft that was built. As a safer alternative due to COPD, I would use polyester fabric & resin instead of fiberglass. She is a great matching scale companion to my USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) model from the same source. THANKS AL! SEMPER PARATUS! GOD BLESS AMERICA! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

Planking complete! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?

Happy Hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
So are CMC, price €479 including all superstructure and mast bits. 😎

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
NP, give Krick a try, the full price is 535 euros but Krick are very good supplying spares, as you want the whole superstructure they may help. Mark

USCG ICEBREAKING TUG by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
ON THE WAYS: 1:48 SCALE USCG 140' BAY CLASS ICEBREAKING TUG; FIBERGLASS HULL WITH WOODEN CABIN/SUPERSTRUCTURE KIT FROM COAST GUARD MODELS IN CHICAGOLAND. WILL BE REPRESENTING ONE OF THE CUTTERS I SAILED ABOARD IN THE EARLY '80s. USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), H/P SAULT STE. MARIE, MI, USA.

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

treatment by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark

Aeronaut Pilot by Skipper44 Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Current stage, I will be making a video on how I have done the boat thus far for the superstructure, and the cab which is currently being built!

80' Elco PT Boat by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 30"/1600g 80' Elco PT Boat Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy Typhoon 500 Heli (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy Marine 60 Amp (60Amps) ESC - Comments: A scratch-built stand-off model based on Model Boats free plan (design by GG). Material mainly balsa wood (hull) and plastic (styrene) on superstructure. Propulsion unit differs from the original design. This is a second set up, not really tested yet. Original set up was Speed 700 Turbo, 12 V NiMh battery pack 4100 mAh, it was 500 g overweight. The only "special feature" are working position lights. It was a pleasure to built and it is pleasure to sail her.

1/30 scale decals/stickers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Bob, try here- https://www.google.de/search?q=L%C3%B6schkreuzer+Weser&dcr=0... Most (all?) site are in German (no sweat for me 😉) but it's the pics you want anyway! She doesn't seem to have much anyway; just name plates on the superstructure and home port (Bremerhaven) on the stern. Cheers Doug 😎

USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/4600g USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (7 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (7 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A (20Amps) ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: (TOO LONG FOR THE TUB) A 1:48 COAST GUARD MODELS (CHICAGOLAND) 52" F/G HULL. SCALE REPLICA OF USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627), ONE OF THREE CUTTERS I SAILED ABOARD WHILE PROUDLY SERVING IN THE GLORIOUS 1980'S. THE BUILDER OF THESE HULLS DOES JUST ABOUT EVERY USCG CRAFT, WWII TO PRESENT. UNFORTUNATELY, DUE TO HEALTH REASONS, HE IS ABOUT TO RETIRE AND RELINQUISH THE FORMS. HIS WEBSITE IS COASTGUARD MODELS.COM IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED. I PLAN TO ORDER A USCG BAY CLASS ICEBREAKING TUG THIS WEEK, BEFORE IT'S OBSOLETE. THAT WOULD ALSO COMPLETE MY USCG FLEET THAT IS RELATIVE TO MY SERVICE. THERE ARE NO SUPERSTRUCTURE ASSEMBIES AVAILABLE FOR THE WMEC, HENCE A SCRATCH BUILD FROM THE MAIN DECK IS IN MY NAUTICAL FUTURE. LUCKILY, GEORGE BIEDA @ WINDJAMMERARTS.COM PUT TOGETHER A LARGE SHEET OF 1:48 DRAWINGS FOR THE CONSTRUCTION. MY PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORY IS PRETTY GOOD, BUT EVERY LIL BIT HELPS, I RECKON. THERE IS, HOWEVER A S/S & CABIN ASSLY FOR THE BAY CLASS, AT A COST, OF COURSE. PARATUS GERERE! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

WHITE CLOVER by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3000g WHITE CLOVER Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:72 TUNA CLIPPER KIT; REDESIGNED & REFITTED TO A RESEARCH VESSEL. BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY PLANK-ON (DOUBLE-PLANKED ABOVE PLIMSOL LINE & PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE COATS OF MINWAX POLYURETHANE), BIRCH PLY AND BASSWOOD SUPERSTRUCTURE WITH 3/16" SCRIBED DECK SHEATHING (DECK CAN ACCOMMODATE A SMALL RC HELO, GOOD LUCK WITH THE LANDING) FEATURES RIVABO 5-BLADE WHEEL, HAND MADE RUDDER, BULBOUS BOW & TRAWLING GALLOWS.ONE 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAY, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS & AMBER DECK LIGHTS AND WORKING BRASS STOCKLESS ANCHOR.