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>> Home > Tags > superstructure

superstructure
instructions
superstructure
White Star BB"570" by Terry2906 Apprentice   Posted: 1 day ago
Great Stuff I am also building a White Star come up with slight problem with the fit of the superstructure into the deck😎

Reassembly by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
Continuing on, I finished mounting the light bar, all lights are functioning. For some reason my iPad does not like LEDs and they don't photograph when lit. Made an exhaust stack out of brass tube, mitered the top, soldered and painted. Hull dry now so I mounted the superstructure onto the hatch, reinstalled the tow bits, switch and batteries, RX, motor, etc. Getting close to sea trials, maybe this week schedule permitting. Cheers, Joe

Paint / epoxy work by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 17 days ago
Hello, No photos today as I prime painted the superstructure and did some cleanup on the skeg with some epoxy. Starting to plan on how to build the railings around the pilot house, mocked up a quick piece tonight, but too tired to photo, will get to tomorrow. Joe

Pilot House Structure by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Coming along nicely.That's the thing with Springer hulls.The superstructure is not confined to one style.One of our members in the club had one hull but three different superstructures.He was able to change them throughout the days sailing.

North Rock by GARTH Admiral   Posted: 18 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1700g North Rock Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 45mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Got a lot of info on the Billings D.M.I. Samson tug from the members . the thing is I saw a drawing of the North Rock tug boat & thought I would rebuild the Samson & build the North Rock tug .Researched original after I painted her & found out the it was white superstructure & black hull to late

Electric Barbarella by Krampus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Ahoy Maties! It's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. It measures 24 X 8.5 inches. It is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
After completing the cowl, turned to the rear structure covering the gas turbine and other engine spaces. This can readily be made from styrene sheet. The sides and top were cut out, reinforced with “L” shaped angle and fitted together with CA glue. No particular challenges, other than determining where the various section transitions occur. Luckily had two different sets of plans to compare, so the nuances could be established. It was not until the rear structure was fitted into the cowl, the assembly fitted to the removable deck and placed on the hull, realized just how important this milestone was. Once everything is firmly located the accuracy of build becomes readily apparent. Any inaccuracies show up as an obvious misalignment. Was able to check the alignments and squareness using eye, rules, squares and a spirit level and was pleased with the outcome. A subtle sanding of about .020” off the base of one side of the superstructure and everything became square, parallel and correctly aligned. Quite a relief! Have always stressed the importance of accuracy throughout a build. This supported that recommendation. Once the superstructure was completed realized my plan to lift the deck off to gain access to the electrical control switches was impractical. Have thus cut a small access hole in the rear deck to facilitate access. Still undecided how to best disguise the hole, but at least access is now relatively easy. From now on, until the test program can be continued on the water, will add detail to the model. Doubt there will be much to describe is that of interest, or that has not been covered by others. Will continue this blog once there is anything significant to report. In the meantime, best wishes for Christmas and 2019,

Oh, NO Water Everywhere! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I remember a few years ago that I was excited to get the boat finished and I went to the pond.Put the boat in the water and ran it for awhile.Brought it back in and opened up the superstructure only to find quite a bit of water in the bottom.I was in a rush and forgot to grease the stuffing tube.One thought for you.

Oh, NO Water Everywhere! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Captain's Log: Ok, I like to float Tug Brooklyn! Last night I did this. I filled the tub with water. Then placed Tug Brooklyn. I left it alone for about half an hour. When I came back. I started looking at her. She looked different in some way. I hadn't realized she was taking on water. anyway I looked at her water line. And her water line was below the water! I then took her superstructure. Off of her when I looked inside. I was shocked to find. She had taken on more than 12 ounces of water! I then started to panic! I went and got my syringe. Which I had purchased just in case water ever got into her. And started pumping out all the water she had in her! I'm not sure where she's leaking from! Or why she is leaking! There's only one opening in the Hull. And that's where the shaft comes out of! Going to have to do another float test. to see where the water is coming in from! I'm glad I discovered this before next boating season!

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by kevinsharpe Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Did you consider building the superstructure using plastic sheet as plastic would bend around the curves. Regards Kevin

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it. The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – Inshallah! To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures. What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood. On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth. Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made. Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate. A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.

Help! identifying a small ferry by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Well have done some research and discovered this a representation of Mv Fairmile but without any of the forward superstructure forward of the aft passenger cabin. The livery seems to be inspired from the local life boat. So rather nice boat I will restore and use but no pattern to follow.

RMAS JOYCE A193 by Nutbourne Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
This is one of the limited edition Sirmar kits that was produce in the early 1990’s.this model was made by a friend of mine who’s a dockyard fitter and turner it was made about twenty eight years ago. Based on a tug that I worked on in and around Portsmouth harbour. This model has a working voith unit opening engine room skylights. Working lights, removable deck hatch to get at the unit like the real boat, the superstructure and gun whales are made from plasticard. The fender was made by a friend to the same type as used on the tug. The wheelhouse is copied like for like. The towing hook is copied from photos and slips like the real one. In all my years I haven’t seen another one like this . Sirmar made twenty numbered hulls as kits .

happy hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I haven't done a great deal to the happy hunter over the last months but the superstructure and masts are almost finished.I want to get the ballast in it next .I,ve got 2 -6 volt batteries in and tried about 1kg of lead at each end -this isn't enough .I would welcome thoughts on what weight will be needed in addition to the batteries -I,m thinking a total of 4kg.Also any ideas on getting the lead moulded to the right shape for the bottom of the hull would be appreciated

Ferdinand Keulen by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] Twin Propellors (4 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive - Comments: Fibre glass hull. Wooden and plastic superstructure. Built issuing the hull and plan.