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>> Home > Tags > switch

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 hours ago
Evenin' Mike, Glad you found it interesting😉 The details of the motor conversion are in my Sea Scout renovation blog but the essentials are- All modern ESCs provide a DC output in the form of pulses which are rapidly switched on and off ( several thousand times a second). That's what you can see in the scope pics. The scope timebase (width of one horizontal division) is set to a little less than 1msec so you can see how fast the pulses are switched and how the pulse width (ON time) varies. The inertia of the motor keeps it going during the few milliseconds of 'Off' so the ratio of ON pulse to OFF determines the speed of the motor. The signal from the TX varies this ratio by varying the ON pulse width of the ESC output in proportion to the throttle stick position. A Bridge rectifier is simply 4 diodes arranged in a square (see pic) so that it has 4 terminals; +, - and two AC (~). When an AC signal is applied between the two ~ terminals a DC voltage of constant polarity appears at the + and - terminals. The rectifier sees the ESC output as an AC signal and produces a DC output at the + and - terminals. All I do is apply that constant DC voltage to the field coil of the motor, thus creating a constant magnetic field as if it was a permanent magnet. This means doing a small mod to the motor to separate the field coil from the brush gear and rotor (armature) coil. 3rd pic shows normal wiring of the coils in series. Meanwhile the varying pulsed voltage goes to the brush gear (and thus armature coil) driving the motor just like a normal 'can' motor. No rocket science just a neat trick 😉 The scope just shows the varying pulse train from the ESC to the motor. Zero Volts is on the horizontal centre line of the screen and shows when the voltage pulses are positive (upper part of screen) or negative (lower part of screen) and the motor reacts accordingly. The slight overshoot is probably due to the reaction time of the diodes but the motor doesn't notice that - it's too 'lazy' 😉 Here endeth today's seminar 😁 Hope it's demystified things a little. Cheers, Doug 😎

What transmitter , receiver by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi I have both the Turnigy and Flysky 6 channel ones. The same, great units and you can upgrade the switches and control knobs to a number of different colours if you wish. Check out Banggood. Canabus

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Rowen, 'a bit nippy' I expect 😲 Have often read and seen that folks use the the outer shafts for cruising and 'normal full ahead' and only switch in the third for 'All Ahead Emergency'!! Like the 'Scientifical' approach 👍😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Ah, OK. I am so anti military, I can't even think of all that stuff, although I am very anti-working features on models. I find them a bit nafferoony on the whole. Go, stop, left, right, that's me. I ain't even bothered about backuds. Goes with my free sailing/IC/early electric background I suppose. Lights only needed at night and I wouldn't be sailing in the dark. Smoke looks like some old geezer having a fag under the deck.....I know you'll argue. Anyway, for my sort of model, a third channel is a waste. And as it's a switch, I couldn't even use it as a jib hallyard. I'll try ringing the service bloke if I can find him. We'll see what he wants to charge, but with postage it'll be silly probably. If you'd like me to do you a shaft, let me know. I have loads of 3mm silver steel for my old American slot car restorations. Gimme a length between extremes and I'll do you one. Cheers, Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Martin, First your last question😉 "What DO you do with a 3rd channel?" Example: 5 foot destroyer! 1 Throttle. 2 Rudder 3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys 4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys 5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!) 6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10😉) for Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights. All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays! Alles klar? 😉 Re the DX5e; If I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service manual or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't 🤔 and should know the binding procedure backwards. I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses. I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all! Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ 😉😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed 😡 She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' 🤔

What do you do when... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Morning Doug Yes gotcha. I was thinking heavy magnet like a speaker magnet. OR arrange a relay with a double throw switch to reverse the current and hence the motor. Piece of P-ss for you mate.Just have enough weight to avoid tangles as you strip the line from the reel and fine synthetic string better than fishing line. It is less likely to be pinched in the roll on the drum. Also more scale.You may want a speed controller or esc perhaps. Or just rely on the gear ratio. An old brushed motor would do I think with about 4volts.You may still need a pawl to prevent the load stripping line when power is off the motor. I hope I tickled your little grey cells mon ami. Bon chance👍

I just had to get it! by captaindoug1 Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Re light switch, on my Brooklin I use a push on push off switch or you can go to Hansen Hobbies and check out there Pico Electronic receiver switch that you can use to turn lights on or off from your receiver

Forum Topic Search? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Pete, I happened to be taking a coffee break! Anyway I've fitted me eyeballs with return springs 😉 Sorry to hear of the affliction 🤔 Can sympathise, I have a much milder form. When I'm really concentrating on a job no problem, as soon as I'm done something switches and says 'Snooze time'! 20 or 30 mins later I'm back on the job 😉 No panic for the sketch, was just wondering. All the best, Doug 😎 To use a quaint old English expression; Pecker up old chap! 👍

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Martin, No need to get yer knickers in a twist 😲 With the NiMh just stick 'em on your iMax every 2 months and run 'em through a discharge / charge cycle. Otherwise in three months they'll probably be Dodo-like 🤔 NiMh batts lose about 1% charge per day. So, assuming fully charged to start with, they will die in about three months. They should not be discharged below 1.0V per cell or they most likely will not recover and will not take a charge anymore. Your TX LiPo you have no control over so just rely on the charger in the TX. Over winter just switch it on every month or so and check if the red LED lights. If it does stick it on charge until the green LED lights again. Your other LiPo you can give a Storage charge with the iMax. Check it with your Capacity Tester now and again. Storage charge will probably indicate 30 to 50%. If it's less than 30% put it on a Storage charge again. Voltage per cell should never be allowed to go below 3.0V MINIMUM. Start a Battery Diary!! Cheers, Doug 😎 Back to hull sanding for me 😡 P'ing down again today so no outdoor spraying🤔 Just discovered construction fault in my fish cutter😲 First hull planks were set flush with the keel bottom instead of leaving about 1/4" of keel showing 😭 To saw or not to saw ? That is the question!!

Deck Hardware Painted! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Thanks Doug, Big and clunky here we go! No one's going to see the switches anyway!

Deck Hardware Painted! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Ed, stick with the switches you have! Those little ones are only rated for 300mA. Don't use them for switching the motor supply!! Yours are 6A which should be enough for your motor. They'll have some 'safety margin' built in anyway. Cheers Doug 😎

Deck Hardware Painted! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi John, of course you are dead right👍 Vaseline is the stuff! I should have mentioned that!🤔 Definitely NOT graphite or Lithium based grease or any other conductive / semi-conductive material or any thick heavy grease. Warming it slightly is also a good tip 👍 Alternative is the switch cleaning / protection spray. Comes in cans with an applicator tube just like WD40. Vaseline is probably cheaper though. Nevertheless, I still prefer toggle switches to slide switches every time. They have a spring loaded snap action for better contact and self-cleaning. I like the hi current jobs from the auto branch with built in LED so you can see what's happening, or not 🤔 Like in my Sea Scout for instance. Cheers, Doug 😎

Deck Hardware Painted! by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
I meant these Ooops. That was silly🤓

Deck Hardware Painted! by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
I recently bought these switches for only 13p. Gone up since I bought them. Excellent little switches for low voltage/amperage applications.Regards using grease in switches. The basic idea is sound but not the use of grease.The stuff to use is petroleum jelly,i.e. VASELINE. The best way to apply it is to melt it and either dip the switch into the liquid or use something like the applicator straw from a WD 40 can or a fine tipped brush to run the liquid into the gap & round the gap while sliding the switch to and throw.🤔 Vaseline does not obstruct electricity but grease can which is why Vaseline is used on battery terminals and not grease.The best way to do it is apply it to the terminal before putting on the cable terminal then smear some over the outside and tighten Sorry to digress but I believe in the correct info where I can.👍

Spektrum, new, useless... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. It worked for my two Futaba T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. It is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. In contrast all the electrics in this "Futaba,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊