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>> Home > Tags > switch

Ishimasa. Blue Sonic 600. yacht. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Evenin' Colin, Got any photos of the internals ? "Two sliding lugs" sounds like a linear servo!! What kind of switch, micro, toggle or slider? Sounds odd whatever the switch is😲 Drive motor or winch motor ? Cheers Doug😎

Ishimasa. Blue Sonic 600. yacht. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi folks, I'm trying to get this model back to sailing condition, it was given to me a couple of years ago, but haven't had chance to get it sorted. It is fitted with a single servo with two sliding lugs, one connects to the rudder and the other seems to be connected to a switch to the motor. I haven't a clue if this is correct, so if anyone of you lovely people have details of this model I would love the assistance. Hopefully Colin.

S 100 Schnellboot RC build by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Ron, did you ever try 3 props for comparison? If yours is the 1:35 Italeri I don't see any problem with space for 3 shafts. I have an approx 1:35 MTB currently with 2 shafts, 'as seen and bought' next season I propose to fit a 3rd motor and shaft: port and starboard for cruising, switch-in centre motor for "All ahead flank"! BTW: I have a couple of kits for the S100 "Schnellboot, otherwise known as E Boat, E for Enemy😉, one Airfix and one Revell, both 1:72. I intend to fit them with 3 motors as well - 'Plastic Magic' 😁 Motors already sourced from X-Drive, shafts will be home brew from silver steel and brass tube with sintered phosphor bronze bearings. "Nothing is impossible", I drive a Toyota 😉😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Genesis 9000 by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
I have brought the wiring home we with me. I will change the switch and take it back with me in August. I must admit that I thought the stern was a bit low in the water. To evenly distribute the weight, I put in two batteries as suggested. I will try to move the batteries forward to change the centre of gravity.😊

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I had understood that this was an 'old motor'. Could have meant decades! Quote: "old Brushed motors MFA850" But an extra .047 across the terminals won't hurt. Re: Fail Safe; a common problem as 99% of sets are pre-programmed for the Fly boys. First thing I do with a new set is delete all the presets for fixed wing / Heli and reprogramme to do what I want and on the stick, switch or knob that I want. Throttle Fail Safe on a plane is often equivalent to throttle stick right back since plane ESCs don't go in reverse the motor just stops. Can have some interesting effects on a boat ESC with reverse though !!!😲 Happy Trialling 😎

Genesis 9000 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Peter very unusual problem with the switch😲 You could temporarily replace it with a bullet connector to continue trials. Glue one end down so that you can quickly unplug the battery one handed. OR: simply short circuit the switch and use the fuse as the 'switch'!? Boat looks a little heavy / tail heavy? Maybe shift some weight a little forward to give more stability? Happy trialling, cheers Doug 😎

Genesis 9000 by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
A short video of the first trial of my Genesis 9000 Offshore Power Boat. This is a boat to use whilst I build others. The trial was seriously hampered by a faulty main switch. The insides must have fallen apart during transportation. I did manage to get an electrical contact to get around five minutes of the trial. The boat ran well but I will have to adjust the rudder to give more movement. Just after the video ended, the boat hit a ripple whilst turning and flipped over. No water entered the hull so all was good, except the switch now refused to work at all. The trial was ended and unfortunately will now have to wait until I return to my river in August.😤

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Great stuff Rowen, Good progress 👍 Interesting, didn't realise they had a trim tab! Are you going to fit one? You're probably right about the battery. Usually 3 batts adding up to the same capacity (Ah) of a single weigh at least around 20-25% more. Only advantage I can see would be weight distribution; two at the sides would help to dampen rolling. Depending how you set up the ESCs and controls the 3rd motor can actually work like an overdrive or turbo 😉 You've got some mighty meaty motors there anyway so I would expect performance on two engines to be pretty good. Switch in the 3rd for 'Emergency Ahead' 'Throttles through the gate Number One'! Your contact wasn't our 'Tasmanian Devil' by any chance? 😉 A very resourceful and helpful guy👍 Ciao 😎 PS I totally agree; if the original had 3 screws (or x of anything else for that matter) then so should the model - that's what 'scale' is about ain' it😉

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Peter If you look at this website you will see that there are enough incorrect items to drive you mad. I have decided to get it as accurate as the kit allows. I have installed a Graupner 6v smoke generator in each funnel with a computer fan at the base of each - yet to be tested. I propose to switch them on and off with a receiver controlled switch. I would like to be able to colour the smoke but have yet to find the correct formula. Steve

Mtronic 10amp speed controllers for sale by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
These were fully working when removed but both have had the switches removed but this is easy to replace if wanted . Looking for around £15 for the pair posted

Graupner switcher unit for sale by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Now sold subject to payment

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
BTW: to connect up! The shorter leg on the LED is the Anode (smaller electrode inside the LED) which goes to the positive of the battery. Chain the 3 LEDs together short lead to long lead. At the ends; Connect the resistor to the short lead (Anode) at the end and connect the other end of the resistor to the + side of the battery via your switch. The long lead at the other end of the LED chain goes to the - side of the battery via the common negative (black wire). hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

Motor Mounted! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sorry Ed, I was pullin' your leg a little 😉 Date of Manufacture and 'On Time' or 'Operating Hours' are terms I remember from my time working on naval ships and other MIL STD equipment! But your question is nevertheless relevant to brushed motors in models👍Basically I wouldn't expect a max current of 2A to stress the brushes of your motor very much. And for that price I would expect that the commutator would be well machined thus minimising the brush wear as it switches from one segment to the next. I trust that you got the quality that you paid for😉 Therefore you should get many hundreds of hours of use out of your brushes! Simply check now n again how much 'meat' they have left and if the commutator shows signs of wear, burning or grooves from the brushes. Or do you want me to do a MIL-HDBK-217F Reliability and MTBF Analysis? 😲 He He, ask Dumas if they did one, that'll throw 'em 😁 Cheers Doug 😎

Brushless Programming Cards by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost £17 at the time , now £32 (4/2018) via Amazon