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>> Home > Tags > switch

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 6 hours ago
Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. It's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi Rowen, Re Relays. The so called 'back emf' (reverse voltage) is caused when you switch off the relay. The magnetic field collapses and the energy is releases as a voltage spike with opposite polarity to the 'pull in' voltage. Since you are using an electronic switch this spike could damage the output transistor of the switch.😡 The diode is connected across the relay coil as a blocking diode, i.e. back to front wrt the operating voltage, and absorbs the spike. Each and any relay coil needs one! This is a manifestation of the induction effect which makes E-motors and generators work 😉 Capacitors: Parallel!! An idea with the Y lead👍 You'll lose the 'tank' steering assistance function though.😲 Happy experimenting, cheers, Doug 😎 PS I use the same alarms, also good for testing batteries on the bench, and ESCs from the same Quicrun range (in my Sea Scout for example), reliable and simple to set up. Even simpler if you buy the little programming card for them. Only a few bucks and well worth it. I've been wondering if it's the response of your ESCs which causes your 'modulation' problem! Remind me; which ESCs are you using? PPS have a look here for an explanation of the suppression (flyback) diode and how to connect it 😊

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. It seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Lieutenant   Posted: 14 hours ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Good point with the kV rating Rowen 👍 I could try an experiment! Don't know quite why (JFF I suppose😁) I also have a 3500kV motor to play with, WELL it was there and not expensive, WHAT could I do? Guilty as charged yer honor🤔. I could stick that in and see what happens. Maybe I'll have to fit stub wings and floats and turn it into a flying boat😁 Had figured the relays where NO. Hope you remembered the back emf diodes, s'pect you did😉 Guess they are triggered by servo and micro switch, or did you get fancy with transistor drivers? Whatever, great idea👍 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Just a thought! If it's 'kV' problem you could try screwing your drive battery down a cell perhaps? Then maybe it wouldn't be so hyperactive. Another thought (must be the tablets!) many ESCs and TXs let you programme the width / sensitivity of the neutral point. Check your manuals, worth a try.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 hours ago
Good thinking Batman👍👍👍 I hate those slide switches as well. They're always the first thing to fail on my garden solar lights. Nice trick with the relays, could also perhaps have used one double pole relay to replace the ESC switches? Otherwise they are energised but in an 'undefined' state 😲 Strange, I don't have your 'modulation' problems with the brushless (1000kV) in my Sea Scout!? 'Get-home'; agreed 👍, that's why I'm pondering squishing a centre motor into my PT Boat. It's all stripped out and in the 'C Check' dock 🤔 so now is the time! All the best Rowen, cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 hours ago
Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Mornin' Martin, I've never used a trigger throttle (and never want to!) but I suspect that yanking back is Full throttle, which means you need to push it forward for programming!! Corresponding to stick back (or down) on a normal two stick set. Which is motor stop on such an aircraft ESC with no bacckuds. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: just checked the manual for a typical Flysky Pistol Grip set (usual Chinglish gibberish🤔) but it confirms that trigger hard back is 'Full Ahead' !! BTW: since you appear to be using an aircraft ESC on a Car/Boat radio set (not a good idea!) make sure that before you switch on the RX that the throttle trigger is pushed right forward. Otherwise the motor will go off half cock straight away. If you release the trigger it will probably go to the 'Half Ahead' position. So mind your fingers.😡

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Doug, the instructions tell me to do what you guys have as to order of switching on, but the beep bit doesn't actually explain what to do which is what I meant by what it means. Foghorn? What foghorn? Sullivan, Trump? Martin

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off' voltage. BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😡 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most Futaba sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and Windows will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
first question which no one seems to have mentioned is :- did you have the transmitter switched on BEFORE you powered up the receiver/ esc ? If not de power the receiver and try switching on the transmitter . Most of these systems have an interlock to prevent the motor running if there is no transmitter.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Doug, as you can probably guess, I have as much chance of programming an ESC as flying with my own wings to Munich! The ESC didn't come with any instructions. I didn't know they needed them! More to the point, how the Hell can a motor beep? Where's the beeping kit in a motor with one moving part? So, now what. It's a Flysky pistol grip 3 channel (third is a switch) set of Tx and pre bound Rx. The ESC ? Gawd knows, a flat thing inside a big yellow heat shrink casing. I got it from China recently. All I can do is take a picture of it with my nice new camera tomorrow. Does it matter which way round those three wires go on the motor? I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks, Martin

electrical connectors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi TJ, 1: "grouper connectors"!? Do you mean Graupner? Pics please. 2: What the heck are 'Halford connectors'? Bullet connectors perhaps? 3: Why two types of connectors at all? 4: Fuse; I actually recommended a fuse between the drive battery and the ESCs to protect both the ESCs and the motors. The switch is normally for the RX only, unless you can find a high current switch which isn't too big to put between the drive battery and the ESCs. Fuse for the RX supply is not normally necessary, especially if a BEC supply is used. With a separate RX battery maximum a 2A fuse. The RX takes only a few milliamps BUT each decent size servo will take up to 500mA. So 2A will do for up to 4 servos. Which motors by the way? Odd that they have different connectors😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

electrical connectors by teejay Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi all back at bench for a couple hours my back is slowly improving. the build is nearly complete, but I do have a bit of a problem with the motors, two of the motors have grouper type connectors the other has connectors form Halfords, The one from Halfords is motor 3 this is the central motor , motors 1&2 have grouper connectors , motor runs really well no problems, but 1&2 RUN INTERMITTILY but only when tweak the connector, Now I don't know if there is some other piece of kit I yet to find out about or maybe the grouper type connectors are just finicky , any body any suggestions or comments before I replace the connections with the Halfords connectors and here is question for Doug you said it would be wise to fit a switch and a fuse on the battery for the RX I have a four cell battery , what size of fuse would recommend. and lastly here is the picture of my little milling machine

USCG POINT GLAS by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
The 70-year US Coast Guard semi-deck. All-metal construction, 2 x MIG 480 motor, standard servo, model illuminated on two circuits. One light mast, position lights and cabin. The second lighting circuit in the hull of the ship and the outdoor lighting around the superstructure. There are no labels on the model yet, I'm waiting for the fabrication. Battery 1 x LiPol 4000 mA. The total construction took me half a year. I made the hull made of laminate from my friend in Slovakia. The superstructures themselves are made of laminated boards. Part of the light bulbs are 6V lamps and the strobe with positional lights are the LEDs of the light triggering through two RC switches.😉