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>> Home > Tags > switch

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 49 minutes ago
Sorry for the digression Steve 🤔 Re your smoke generator - I hope you don't want to lay a smoke screen! Several years ago I fitted a Graupner smoke genny to my destroyer and hoped to feed both funnels with it. No way! 🤔 According to instructions I fitted it in a 10mm tube (alu) in the forward funnel, with the wick in a 'tank' made from a large aerosol cap, and fed it from the drive battery (12V SLA, 2 x 6V 7AH) via the Gear switch on the TX and a home made decoder / relay switch at the business end. First: it takes a little while to get 'steam up', second at best it produces whisps of smoke, and white so it looks more like steam. 🤔 Have experimented with 'additives', e.g. graphite, but have not yet achieved real black smoke. To increase volume when I refit the destroyer I have a second genny for the aft funnel and intend to build 'smoke reservoirs' under the funnel tube and drive it all with a 6v cooling fan from an old PC graphic card. The 'chimney effect' alone is not enough 🤔 I hope that in this way I can increase the volume so it looks a bit more realistic when 'getting steam up' or on 'Full Ahead Both'! (Give me all you've got Scotty!)😁 For various other 'mini model' projects, 1/350 Plastic Magic, I have acquired several mini smoke gennys from the model railway (1/87) department - experiments are on the To Do list😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi kmbcsecretary, It's a shame you had to sell your tugs! I collect 1/32 scale tug and boy can they be very heavy... Although you had to switch to sail. Building the boat is almost all the fun! anyway for me it is! Ed

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 11 hours ago
he we have the hatch covers that were made earlier the forward hatch covers the power switch and battery charging points. the mid-ships hatch houses the receiver and the main cabin houses the sail and rudder servos. the last picture is just to show with the hatch covers on

SkyLight! by Donnieboy Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Good idea.Some times it's hard to find someplace o put the switches.Nice to find some place to put them.

SkyLight! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The skylight is completed. But not glued in place yet! The picture in the middle show the skylight without detail. Because it has to be painted! I placed 1/4" squared pieces of wood to center the skylight assembly! I'm putting lights on my tug so now. I know where to place the switch! I'm placing it under the skylight! The skylight will be removable to gain access to the switches! The forth picture is of the underneath of the skylight. Just to show what it looks like. And how I used the squared pieces of wood. To center the skylight!

Superstructure by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎

Superstructure by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I have made the superstructure out of plasticard as it is much easier to paint, no filling in of the grain as there is with wood. The main superstructure and the engine room structure are supposed to be as one, I am keeping these separate in the hope that I can house the switches and charging sockets under the engine structure. I only have the two photo's of this stage I'm afraid.

New drive Train and Oiler by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😡 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.😉 To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😡 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crème Brûlée!! So do I, delicious 😜😉 The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. Ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? 😁 Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!

Graupner switcher unit for sale by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Primarily sold awaíting payment

Graupner switcher unit for sale by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
open to sensible offers and all proceeds will be donated to this site

4 Motors 1 Stick by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
From what I can remember is to press the menu key once then select settings using the + - keys then press menu to select go to second page of settings then select prog.mix and here is were you can set the options for the f.mode (mix) switch if you Google the flysky 9ch set they are basically the same instructions for the 9x Hope this helps

Graupner switcher unit for sale by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Found this at back of a draw in the workshop Graupner sxm 4 channel switcher unit. This is the link to the Graupner site for full info on the switch Retail at around £28 looking for £20 posted , can except PayPal or BACS

happy hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
You do know that you have to cool a 'superconductor' close to 0° Kelvin (-273°C) to make it work !? 😉😁 (Stupid auto dictionaries - switch off the Auto typing correction!!) Glad to see you can make progress 👍

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Are you still having problems generating enough steam. Looking at the set up the boiler and engine look well matched. What size and type of burner are you using? I use a flat ceramic burner on a similar sized boiler and it's up to pressure in about 4 mins. I take a thermos water flask to the lake with warm water and fill the boiler just before I steam up. I use a separate gas canister to do initial heat up then switch to the on board supply. This helps stop the can freezing when going at full bore in the initial stages. Subsequent gas supply is much lower and does not produce much cooling of the gas canister. Looking forward to seeing your model under steam.

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris I believe you have correctly installed the update as the screen shows the 10 channels. When you allocate the switches etc to channels it's a two part process to save the changes, click OK then press and hold Cancel. If you don't hold the cancel long enough it doesn't save the settings. At my weekly club sail I helped sort out A Turnigy clone and discovered what was required. Doug (RN in Munich) has confirmed his Turnigy works the same.