Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus
Thanks chaps at a rough estimate and using the keel as the straight edge it is about correct for the electric motor. new cables and connectors along with a couple of mini servo's, arriving tomorrow, which I intend to rig up to operate some micro switches for lights and the like, cheaper than pukka switches. Jarvo and pmdevlin, when I can get the boat to water I will take some photo's and maybe a video with the battery's in the rudder compartment and also in the compartment just rear of the motor to see what you both think.
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)
Know the feeling with 'time' for things like synch'ed gun flash and sound! I have loads of miniature LEDs and two programmable sound units with synch switches - as yet only the instructions have been out of the box🤔 My destroyer radar is also independent of the RC - I just put a microswitch under the 'B' gun turret to switch it on 😉
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.
Dave, mtroinks have switches, so maybe when it had the pair of vipers, they where for the esc's? I would disconnect the red signal wire from the receiver end on the "y" harness, and use a separate 6v receiver supply, I have a number of twin screw setups, with a cheap battery monitor, if the esc fails, you still at least have rudder control, if the feed esc goes down, power is lost to the receiver, ensure you have a failsafe set at zero throttle. With spectrum, its usually automatic, unless...... you have reversed the throttle! that means you throttle will go wide open in event of esc failure. Easy test, on the bench, all set up to go, make sure all the props etc are clear, just turn your transmitter off, see what happens, nothing should! Have you done the range test? you might have been lucky having it go in reverse, Also, the gunner that is holding the esc wire, is he wearing a Teflon glove? His hand might get hot
Hi John Thanks for the pics. I see you are using Tamiya connectors. My experience is that they are unreliable and not suitable for currents above about 5amps. You appear to have the battery wired to both ESCs though one socket. As your problem occurs when both ESCs are connected I suspect the connectors are the culprits as they work then fail fairly quickly. Easily checked by using two separate batteries. If this is the problem I would hard wire the two ESCs to a chocolate screw block with just one socket for the battery. You might also want to consider a fuse in the positive wire to the battery. There are two switches, what are they switching and what type of switch? I can see the Y lead has one red wire taped up so assume power is from one of the ESCs? Where do you put the rx when the top is on? Hope you manage to move forward tomorrow. Dave
Hi Richard, with a bigger motor and smaller prop you may not need the water cooling, none of my boats have cooling, what i would say is that switching to a gel battery will be heavy, stick with your 7.2v batteries and give it a try, it might last a bit longer but with your twin battery set up you will get about the same run time. Mark
Hi Guys! Both plans are available there: https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/fairey-huntsman-mm680/ and there: https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/fairey-huntsman-mm2111/ As far as the articles in MB 2016 are concerned, they were "just" a support for those who decide to buy the plan or an attraction for those interested in. As mentioned above, the article is very helpful. I have decided to for a build as well, when I've read the articles. I had a chance to enlarge the original by 1,5, approximately. I did it because my intention was to use and modify a plastic hull I've had at home. It's dimensions were the scale factor... After some work I've realized the enormous extent of changes necesary and switched to a scratch build... Being very slow builder, it is still in progress, hull almost ready, waiting for the deck, spray rails and started the preparation of parts for the cabin.
Hi Wayne. Please accept my apology for not replying - I have only just picked up your post. I must have switched my notifications off by mistake. Anyway, problem solved as you can see from the attached. I have fitted a Shockwave 2 sound system which can sync muzzle flash - an LED - to the gunfire. I can't decide on what colour LED to use. Any thoughts? Steve
Hi Tony You have not said if the model performs normally as soon as you are back on the surface, but if it doesn't I have the following suggestions. I like Mtronic and have used them in many of my models but they can (as do several other manufacturers), in the event of a power wipe out, go into reset mode and this can result in you losing the fwd/rev function. The ESC has reset to minimum throttle stick down and only one direction as a result. I guess its pot luck whether this is fwd or rev but rev seems to be the most common. If you replace the BEC with a battery to power the rx this may help. You do need to disconnect the red lead from the ESC to the rx and still need to switch on the esc after the rx. If it has reset you need to reset the controls whilst the two lights are flashing by pressing the ESC button and moving the sticks to their full extreems. You will need to have capacitors across the motor terminals and also between each motor terminal and the case. Your rx connecting wires and aerial should be as far away as possible from the high current battery wires and the wires from the motor to the ESC. Doug has already suggested re rerouting the aerial and as you have this suggests a weak signal. Have you done a range check with the Tx aerial down? You should be able to have control from at least 20' without any interference? Please let us know how you progress.