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>> Home > Tags > switch

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Gadgets and Gizmos by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Nick, As basic as this sounds I got a switch that you plug into a channel on the rx to control lights or just about anything remotely. I've also got a sound module with 2 speakers from eBay that you load the sound onto a microSD card which I find amusing, this also plugs into a rx channel. Animatronics is new to me, I'm learning slowly, my 1/4 scale Donald Campbell should scare a few people. I'm also dabbling with 3D printed linear actuators at the moment, I'm up to 130mm of travel from a normal servo. Ohhh the entertainment 🤗 Cheers Wayne

Working radar by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Doug: Yes, I was contemplating the idea of running the radar via small dc with a separate switch, that way I wouldn’t need to use a channel. I have been inspecting lots of different wiring diagrams to set up my electronics from Action Electronics. Looking at them I’m beginning to understand how to embrace the project and of course, you guys will give me the last word. By the way, I love your models, they look impeccable inside and out. Julian😎

Working radar by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
To spline or not to spline? That is the question! 😉 Don't over-engineer. My destroyer radar works perfectly well totally independent of the RC! I just use the servo motor and gearing. Output shaft connected to the radar drive shaft with tight PTFE sleeving stripped from cable (13A mains or similar). Heat shrink sleeve also works well. Power comes from a single 1.5V dry cell and switch hidden inside the bridge. A C or D size cell lasts for years & years & ... Simply switch on before launching. Couldn't be simpler and no wasted RC channel 😊 In effect it's just a simple geared motor with no unnecessary frills. Cheers Doug 😎

The electrics, drive & radio by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi EricMB There is certainly interference as the Rx light is flashing almost constantly. The rudder servo looks like a small type that I have had problems with (twice) on my RG65 yacht used as the rudder servo. Initially try disconnecting this and see if the symptoms disappear. If not reconnect and disconnect the leads from the ESC to the motor and see if the problem disappears. It could also be a faulty battery connection so check the leads and try moving (twist and pull) them whilst switched on. Let me know how this goes as there are other things you can do to solve the issue Dave

No power by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
PS - But that doesn't mean you have to go for the other extreme - Zig thousand pounds for dozens of computerised functions and knobs, switches and displays all over, not to forget multi-parameter telemetry feedback with 5.8GHz video link to a virtual reality headset (stereo sound of course😉). 'A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step' Safe journey Nick, cheers Doug 😎

No power by NickW Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Doug Yes I did have the ESC and servo plugged in....now I can't even get the ESC or Rx to switch on...no LEDs at all now....think i'll buy a dolls house instead...much easier :-( i'm obviously missing/not doing something but i've tried all and every ways and nothing

No power by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Nick, we're working into this on a sort of Archimedian Spiral! But we'll get there 😉 You forgot to mention if you had the rudder servo plugged in and if it responded! If it did I assume it responded to the left stick as your ESC responded to the right stick! In that case .. Switch off the RX (boat power supply/ESC), switch off the TX. Always use this sequence to prevent ESC / motors going wild! 😡 Then ... plug the rudder servo into the channel that responds to the right stick - I assume Channel 1? Plug the ESC into Channel 2. Switch on the TX, switch on the RX (boat supply / ESC-BEC). Again, always use this switch-on sequence to prevent uncontrolled servo / motor movement! All SHOULD now work as required 😉👍 Cheers Doug 😎 @ Dave - Patience is a virtue 😉

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Nick Lets just do one simple task. Plug the esc and rudder servo into your Rx. Switch on the TX and ESC. You may want to disconnect the motor and protect the wires. If the rx light is on your rudder should respond to one of the sticks. You may have to plug it into different channels on the rx moving the esc if necessary. Please let me know if this works. Dave

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Nick You are using your Tamco and it is working? I suggest you try a spare servo in each channel and identify which Tx sticks work which channel on the Rx. The servo should follow the stick movement in both directions. If you do not have a separate Rx battery you can use your ESC, you dont need a motor connected but do tape up the wires to prevent a short. Once you have identified the throttle output channel you can plug your esc into this channel. Plug the test servo into the rudder channel and make sure it is working Your throttle (ESC) stick does need to be in the centre position. If you are using a horizontal stick then I add the following procedure or follow my original guide. When you say rudder stick do you mean the horizontal stick movement on the tx? If so it is this stick you need to move to set the ESC. Say full right when the solid green light is on then full left when the red light is on. Stick back to centre and both red green should be solid. With the Tx switched on the bind process is automatic once you press the small button after switch on and whilst the red/green leds are flashing. Once pressed the green led should be solid until you move the stick fully when the red led lights and you move the stick in the opposite direction and return to centre when the red green lights show solid. Dave

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Nick Your ESC needs setting to the TX/RX. It is very important that before you switch on the Tx all the sticks and trims are at neutral and set for normal as against reverse. Switch on the Tx plug the Esc with battery connected into the Rx ESC socket. Switch on the ESC, both leds flash red green. Whilst they are flashing push the small button on the ESC. The green light should illuminate, push the relevant TX stick fully up, the red led should illuminate, pull the stick fully down and then return it to neutral. Both red and green LEDs should be lit whilst the stick is in the neutral position. Pushing the stick up fully will light the green LED (forward) fully the other way the red LED will light (reverse). The motor will run if connected. Your ESC is now set up to work with this Tx/Rx combination and will retain the setting each time you switch on. Always centre your sticks before switching on to avoid the motor starting due to a non central position. Different Tx/Rx combinations may require you to repeat the procedure. The same procedure should work for all Mtronic ESCs with a button including your two. Dave

No power by NickW Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Well i've tried every Tx/Rx that I have, the only one getting anywhere near is the Tamco 200....binds as it should but just cant get the configuration correct, soon as I switch power on the ESC is flashing red/green led before settling on red, then the motors go off by themselves without me touching the throttle, the rudders are ok though....it even goes back to that tinny sound I mentione in another thread with another boat....but it just wont sit on the stand and wait for me to touch the throttle, it goes off by itself soon as the Tx is switched on.....i've obviously got something not configured correctly....and i've tried both Viper 15 and Viper 20 ESC

No power by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Nick, If you really have the R3FS RX then what you say above is wrong! The Bind channel slot is CH3. The Battery connector is the 4th slot. See pic from the so called User Manual. I would first try to Bind the RX without the ESC, then you can forget about BEC or not 😉 For this put the binding link into Ch3 slot and the battery in the fourth slot. Then- 1. Install a charged battery in the TX and switch it off. 2. Insert the Binding Link into the Ch3 channel „BIND“ port of the receiver. 3. Connect the receiver battery to any port of the receiver, (leave the ESC out for now) the red LED starts flashing indicating that the RX is starting the tuning process.. 4. Press and hold the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, and switch it on. 5. Watch the LED on the receiver. If the LED stops flashing, the binding process is successful. This process takes up to 5 sec. 6 Release the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, take out the „BIND“ link. 7. Install the servo for testing, in CH1 or 2. 8. If the test fails, repeat 1 to 7 above. 9. If the test succeeds, remove the RX battery, plug the ESC into slot 2, rudder servo into slot 1. As attached wiring diagram, which assumes an ESC with a BEC. All should now work assuming your batteries are OK and the ESC-BEC is working! If not Go back to step 7; No ESC, RX battery in slot 4, servo in slot 1 or 2. If this works then your ESC (or at least the BEC) is duff! 🤔 Hope this does the trick, at least to find out where the snag is - if any! 😉 Viel Glück! 👍 Doug 😎

No power by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Nick If your ESC has a BEC you use the throttle channel and the other channel for the rudder. The ESC can not be plugged into the battery connector as there will be no signal on that connector but all the lights will work as you are providing the correct voltage. The ESC should settle to solid red green. If green is showing this suggests the ESC is not finding a signal. I assume the batteries in the Tx are all ok and all connected in the correct way. If you have another TX/Rx you could check The ESC and Rudder servo to make sure they work OK using that set. Hopefully Doug will decipher the bind process but I would check the above first. The Viper has an on off switch and I assume this is working as you are powering everything. Dave

Building a deck by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 26 days ago
I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.