[Score: 8/10] 43"/5000g Sydney Star Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 500 BOAT 12V (5 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy 45 A (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Kit by Graupner. The ship is fitted with the MIG 500 main motor, 2 transverse motors MIG 400, 3 turnigy 45A controllers, 2 pcs of 5000 mA, 3 RC light switches. Illuminated corridors beneath containers, cabin, position lights with masts, horns
[Score: 9/10] 40"/4000g Koh-i-Noor Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Geared to a Robbe (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitec Gold (10Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. It was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. It came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy.
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!
Just repaired a blown fogger unit, reversed battery. Used a Component Shop LM2557 switch mode converter unit running from 12v (max) and giving 1 amp at 24v, plenty for the fogger that requires 300Ma. I may add a small heatsink if the chip gets hot as the fogger has no off switch whilst on the water. There is a simple multiturn pot adjustment to set the required voltage. Fogger now working full pelt and as good as new.
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave
Hi Steve, As your ESCs have an ON/OFF switch for the BEC (orange and red twisted wires) leave one of them SWITCHED OFF! Unless you want to use a separate RX batt. In that case switch 'em BOTH OFF! To drive both ESCs from one RX port: plug the ESCs into the sockets of the Y cable and the plug end into your usual throttle output channel of the RX. Don't forget to reverse the power leads on one motor, or the FUSES! Doug 😎
Hi Doug It's a tinny type noise, no vibrations or anything I can see/feel.... I'm using the Tamco Tx and Rx along with an Mtroniks Viper 20 ESC....once it's all switched on the green rx light is on and the red/green light is on on the ESC....the Tx is also switched on and all is quiet...once the throttle moves the sound starts...possibly the motor, could be a normal sound one should expect....the coupling appears ok
Haverlock Thanks for the guidance....I seem to have got there without creating smoke and I still have all my fingers so successfully missed the prop!!!! Everything appears to be working other than a noise coming from the ESC or somewhere else that I can't fathom. Switch on and all lights are working (ESC & rx) move throttle control and screw turns in right direction but the noise is a tad worrying/annoying....think it might be a trip to the Army/Navy stores for some ear-muffs :-)
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.
Hi Dave, I know about the reversing coil, reverse wound (natch) and fewer turns so motor is slower. Sure you can switch that, mechanically or electronically but is the ESC still the trigger for reverse? 😎
Hi Doug Sorry but you are mistaken. Later Taycols such as the Double Special had a separate reverse winding that provided a slower speed in reverse when selected. There are two connections one for forward and one for reverse. You can use a relay or double way switch to alter the contact. A modern solution is to use a bridge rectifier as an electronic switch. I have one and have done the conversion and it works. Current is high and 25 amp capacity is recommended for the Double Special. Please have a look at http://taycol.tk/Rectifier.html There is a diagram showing the separate coils and how to connect the rectifier. A fuse is a must as you have advised and for reasons explained in the article. I do agree your solution will work but I would suggest this alternative works using the Taycol as designed and avoids any disconnection of coils. Whatever method is used the increased current will require the bridge rectifier to be mounted on a heat sink. Hope this clarifies and helps you understand these fascinating motors in all their variations Dave
OK. You can do that just for reversing, but no speed control without the ESC. Also relay contacts have an irritating habit of arcing and burning when used for high currents. More sparks! Your choice but I find the bridge solution is more elegant, more compact and probably more reliable. You'll need a second channel to trigger the relay, could get exciting if you're on full ahead at the time! Or do you intend to use the negative swing of the ESC output to switch it? Don't forget the diode across the relay coil to kill the induced voltage! Let us know what you decide and how it goes. I know which way I would go. Cheers 😎