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>> Home > Tags > system

IG Offshore Austria Outing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Braulio, Some masterful stuff there👍 and good clear photography 👍👍 Good to see the Atlantic Challenger. Many years ago a colleague and I did the COMMS system design for the original😊 Love the Minions and floating 'crapper', some imaginative folks about 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi John, I wondered about cutting slits, BUT figured the steel would be very very hard and my Dremel cutters wouldn't manage it, (my other cutter is for bricks an' such), AND the damn things have no dimples, they are hex nut shape 😭 Figured I'd screw up my drills trying to put a dimple in it🤔 Recovery system On Hold till I get my cutter and PTB renovations 'on the road'. Cheers, Doug

Windows, stoopid question. by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Doug create your own split dies by cutting through with thin cutting discs in a good mains powered mini grinder. Cut through the middle dimple on the edge.This will enable spreading for first cut.Closing down bit by bit 'til a good fit achieved on the screw thread without any slop. I've fallen for solid/restoring dies sold on line etc as cutting dies too.The edges of the split form the cutting edge. Got to be very clean thin cut though. If you can arrange for the cutter and the die to be held rigid as you cut and take it slowly to avoid heating. Some of your cutting oil might help too.It might take a few discs .If you can find metal cutting circular saw blades they may work better/cleanly.👍 P.S. How's the recovery system coming?

U-181 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Great minds think alike Haig👍 I've been wanting to have a go at Z38 for a long time. Those 1936 / Narvic classes had nice lines. Sea keeping wasn't so hot in the originals apparently! Like the 'scope idea, will try it on my U26. Saves having to break into the pressure hull👍 Which was always my biggest problem on COMMS system designs for 'toys' for the 'big boys'; minimising the hull breakthroughs! With such a simple float how do you make it so 'free running' that it doesn't bind? Cheers, Doug 😎

U-181 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Excellent job Reilly 👍 Great video and music 👍 I see you decided after all to drown the crew😁 I decided the same for my U26! Not painted or fixed yet 🤔 Looks like you have a very similar dive system as my Akula II from Engel, or do you have two tanks? Main and trim or fore and aft? I also used perspex (5mm) for the access hatch on U26, with a silicone rubber gasket. Same basic construction, with detachable deck / upper hull, due to the hull design in those days; pressure hull and outer flooded hull. The Akula is a slightly different kettle of fish. Being a more modern nuclear sub round design all the innards are mounted in a tube and sealed in with a bayonet fixed bulkhead in the bow. No scope for external decoration like the WW2 boats. Cheers, Doug 😎

U-181 by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 77"/17500g U-181 Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 90mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Geared to a Mabuchi 550 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 20A ESC - Comments: This is an Engel kit, but heavily modified. The deck was replaced with 2mm polycarbonate and slots cut with a slotting tool on a lathe/drill. There are 3 access hatches instead of the original 1. The internal layout was completely revised. The dive system is the Engel Tmax that works very well. There are too many other changes to mention, but suffice to say they were to make the submarine more realistic and also easier to maintain.

R.N.L.I. Concept Tug by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 24"/900g R.N.L.I. Concept Tug Capable of 1mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (4 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 8Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ESC from Chiner (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This started out as a Seaport Dickie Harbour Tug, that came with a 40Mhz radio system, ESC and a small water pump. So the first thing was to remove the 40Mhz system and replace it with a new 2.4 alone with a replacement ESC, I also removed the water pump. It was now time to think how I was going to repaint her, as the club had been invited to out local R.N.L.I. station I came to the decision that I would make her into a R.N.L.I Concept Tug.

R.N.L.I. Concept Tug by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi This started out as a Seaport Dickie Harbour Tug, and as most of us know it does not have a very good system installed, I have replaced the 40Mhz with a 2.4 system and repainted her to how I think a R.N.L.I. Tug would look like if they every have a tug.👍

Mini Olympus gearbox by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Mornin' Donnie, at least it is here on our side of the 'pond', Many thanks for the appreciation 👍 It's sort of an extension of my profession (in miniature) into my retirement. I used to design / develop radio equipment and later full communication systems. The last 32 years specialising in COMMS for naval ships. I would do the initial system design to the navy operational requirements and then negotiate the refinements and inevitable upgrades and changes with the navy and/or shipbuilder. Sometimes dragging them up to date in the process 😉 Wish I was in Canada too! I designed the COMMS refit for the RCN MCMVs (Mine Counter Measures Vessels) several years ago. Also worked in Newfoundland with Provincial Airways Engineering on the mini AWACS planes they were converting for UAE. Enjoyed both projects and the great people I worked with very much. I still do my research the same way as then; If I don't know how something works, I find out double quick! Only way to stay ahead of the end user - and the competition 😉 Very glad you are finding the site useful 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fibreglass hull/deck fit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Know the feeling! Living in Munich, with a German keyboard, I have to switch between English and German, BUT I switched off the automatic spelling correction so I can check what it's offering for alternatives 😉 I see you are in Eastbourne, do you sail in Princes Park? Until recently my Mum (93) lived in Royal Parade just round the corner from the park. Sometimes if I drove over from Munich I would take my 1/72 H class destroyer with me and sail it in Princes Park. Last time there was a guy there with a Trident sub with full diving system. I played cat and mouse with him, trying to 'be there' when he surfaced, good fun😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Live and learn! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
What's a 'Skew number'? I've heard of 'Skewe's numbers' and the skew binary number system! If you mean the bar code I believe the batch number is buried in that, so check the human readable numbers underneath it. Some manufacturers actually print 'Batch # xxxx' or maybe a date code (year / month) on the cans. I've only run across this problem before with cellulose paint for vehicles. Bad luck 🤔 Back to hull sanding for me 😡

Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
if your totally wedded to your orange receiver you could look at a taranis transmitter and an optional module. Once you get the method of the taranis system if works great and is flexable to the "nth" degree. Oh and the transmitter uses a " wall wart" to charge the internal battery.

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Haverlock, I did that, effectively with my printer, which after working well suddenly wasn't talked to by the computer, so I took it out and smashed it to pieces, after carefully removing the plate glass platten to glue wet'n'dry to. But I'd had use out of it. I smashed a leased printing system for old skool graphics at my last job, because the repair man was late. We were 2 floors up, he had to pick the bits up of the tarmac below, but we'd done a lot of prints with it. This apparent, over-rated pile of junk has never done owt, but beedlyboop and one light. How I wish I could afford a grand for a Jeti Duplex, one of the most beautiful pieces of industrial design I have ever seen this side of a Coventry Climax cam cover. Cheers, Martin

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I've been pondering a neodymium magnet on a derrick on the stern of my Southampton tug and steel plates set into the foredecks of my boat and ships! Still pondering, reeling in with a winch is easy, running out the cable to drop the magnet down onto the boat is causing me mechanical headaches though. 😡 Maybe just raising and lowering a suitable boom would be easier!? Any ideas folks, especially amongst you winch using sailors? First time my destroyer conked out I swam out 'in me knickers' to rescue it cos the wind was pushing it towards the lake fountains. It's NOT a flying boat! Got a round of applause and some interesting suggestions from some of the er 'ladies' present 😲😉 Second time we had flat calm on a balmy summer evening and she started very slowly drifting home. So as it was early evening we went to the lakeside restaurant terrace where I could enjoy a steak and a glass or two while keeping an eye on her progress. Hard life ain't it 😉 Whatever, I'm sure there's a more elegant solution than more plumbing than there is in my bathroom! I even once used my sharp pointed destroyer to push a failed plastic RTR so called speed boat home. Took a lot of manoeuvring with a long thin destroyer but we made it. Once I managed to get it lined up and close enough to shore a good shove with all ahead flank then full astern let it run up the shore. Was good helmsmanship practise. A simple shaped rubber block I could hang over the bow would have made it much easier! Cheers all, don't get stuck! Doug 😎 PS One other 'Schnapps idea' as they might call it here in Bavaria, I've been playing with for a while is a model of the 'Big Lifter'. It's a conveyor ship like a big powered dry dock. To take on the load she floods huge tanks and sinks herself😲 slides under the load, pumps the water out again and up she comes load an' all! Would be fun wouldn't it?😉 All the bridge and accommodation superstructure and engine rooms are in the stern. At the bow there are only two tall towers for guidance when taking on the load. The rest is just flat loading deck. Sounds simple don' it 😁 an' a lot more fun than half the plumbing dept. of B&Q. 👍 PPS: I also tried the grab claw idea of Martin's. A sort of 4 prong grappling hook. As he rightly said the first snag is to get the line aboard the stricken vessel in the first place. I tried it with one of the depth charge derricks on the stern of my destroyer. Reeling in - fine. Getting the line out ? Another kettle of fish. I considered a spring-loaded system to fire the line out IF I could make the winch free run to pay out! Got no further than considering (the spring launcher I still have) before I completely stripped out the destroyer for a total refit. Thinks, thinks, thinks ......

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I ain't laughing Pete, it's a fair question (or two) 😉 1 Location: you're on the right track👍 A little distribution board, e.g. built on Veroboard, is a good tidy solution and simplifies any troubleshooting later. Put the resistors in the + lead to the LEDs. 2 Resistor size and heat: 1/8 or 1/4 W resistors will do nicely. Since they will only be passing 20 to 30mA they should not get hot. The size is about 3mmx 10mm. Allow 3 or 4mm at each end for the leads for flat mounting. 3 Values: Before we can determine these we will need to know what voltage is supplied to the dropping resistors on the circuit board just before the plug and socket connection to the lamp wire. So you will have to do some testing with your multi-meter😲 before you pull anything apart make a sketch of the lamps connections to the board. Switch on your TX and RX - IN THAT ORDER PLEASE! Switch on each existing light in turn and measure the volts at the socket on the board, referred to the negative of the main battery supply. Then look for one of those teeny SMD resistors directly connected to the socket pin you've just measured and check the volts at both ends while the lamp is on. Note all these readings on your sketch. Make a clear photo of this sketch and post it or PM me for my email address. that might get deleted by the site system🤔 When we have these readings I can work out some suitable combinations to achieve what you want and minimise the number of different resistors. Basically I need to know if the full 7.2V of the main battery is switched to the resistor by the RX output! If not then what!? Hope this makes sense 😉 Takes longer to describe than to do it ! Re sourcing: Try Radio Shack. I recently pointed another site colleague (figtree) in this direction for a similar project with his Brooklyn tug. For instance- This is a collection of so called preferred values, i.e. near enough standard values and cheap to produce by the millions. For $7.50 it's got all the values you are likely to need for the next 10 years illuminated boating 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎🤓