Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave
Original design "Express Cruiser" type boat. Old home-made fiberglass hull built in UK in the 1970s and rescued from previous owner's garage. Model built during April-July 2015. Approx. 1/24 scale. In trying to emulate a Bertram Bahia Mar boat, I ended up with an originally fictitious design. Real life boat could be a 32-footer (9.75m) yacht. 3mm 9v LED navigation lights system. Runs on Mtroniks G2 3A Hyper BEC 6-12V 15A Constant controller, Biao123 A2122 brushless motor, and a NiMH 10.8v battery.
NickW is this the radio set https://www.modelsport.co.uk/absima-sr2s-2-channel-2.4ghz-ra... style='background-color:yellow;'>system/rc-car-products/407387 If so it's a 2 channel set with a rx with 4 sockets. One is for the battery and I assume the rest are for ESC and Rudder. You have tried putting the connectors in the two furthest sockets from the battery socket. It could be only two are actually live as regards signal controls. As the lights come on the plugs are in the correct way. Doug I did find some Utube help on the set but it was all in German or could have been 'Dinglish'. I do hope you will be able to help with the translation. Happy days dave
OK. I'll let you know what I can find. So far their 'English' seems more like 'Dinglish' to me. Poor translations 🤔 Not so unusual, I spent a good deal of my 30 years working here tidying up the English system manuals of the company I worked for. Sometimes the curious translations had completely reversed the actual meaning!! Cheers Doug
I have the SR2S model - also has AFHDS - automatic frequency hopping digital system....it's a 2 channel Tx, purchased off fleabay new in box. It comes with a manual in English, which says it's factory matched with the Rx
Schön guten Tag Freunde! Wie kann ich behilflich sein?? Send me a link and I'll see what I can do. I found an Absima site in German (not surprising since they are in Nürnberg north of Munich) with several system manuals to download so let me know which set you have and I'll translate the Getting Started and Binding sections for you. Viele Grüße Doug 😎
Hi Dave...the Tx/Rx is an Absima 2.4Ghz system, the handbook informs buyers that the products are matched in the factory so you only need to bind if you're mixing them with other brands. I'm using the Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 ESC....all lights appear to be on but nothing moves :-(
When the yards are squared, the springs are compressed. I use springs that are just strong enough to push out the slack, not make bracing a battle between winch and springs. You can see how it works here: https://youtu.be/jWRBJpLYe6s
With my boats getting routinely stranded in the middle of nowhere, I felt compelled to commission a rescue vessel and "Triton" was born. "Triton" is a Springer-type tug push boat. With a hull and superstructure consisting of an “Indiana” style command cabin, it was built using a pretty basic birch plywood American kit designed for swimming pool water polo. Kit altered to resemble a fictitious Salvamento Marítimo (Spanish Coast Guard) unit following Salvamento Marítimo’s actual boat markings. Equipment and deck layout inspired on actual Springer tug push boats supporting larger vessels and barges found in US and European ports and rivers. Model built during September – October 2015. Approx. 1/18 scale. Real life boat could be a 30-footer (9.14m) vessel. Equipped with 9v LED navigation lights and sound system. Powered by an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor, NiMH 7.4v battery, a 3-bladed 44mm propeller, and a 6-12V 320A RC Ship & Boat R/C Hobby Brushed Motor Speed Controller.
I've kept a log of this build on RCGroups forums since 2009. We share experiences, brainstorm ideas, and help each other out with a lot of the idiosyncrasies of RC square-rig sailing. A fellow there named Dan and I had a long running discussion on dealing with slack in the braces when there are prototypically mounted near the ends of the yards. This discussion led to the sliding winch. The winch servo, unaltered in any way, is mounted on Delrin blocks with holes through which pass a pair of brass rods. The winch can slide fore and aft on theses rods. A pair of aluminum angle hold the ends of the rods so the servo is off the deck and can move freely. A pair of spring are on the rods to provide tension by pushing against the winch. When the yard is square across the model, the servo is pressing on the spring(s). As the yard is turned, the spring pushes the winch back on the rods taking up any slack in the braces. I mounted everything on a pallet again, keeping it modular so I can get at things, and easily take them out if need be. While assembling it, one of the winches started acting strange. I replaced it with another one, which required, removing the winch drum screw and drum; unplugging the servo from the receiver; loosening 4 screws that hold the winch to the slide-blocks; then do all that in reverse to put in the new winch. I also got Servo-Stretchers that increase the the sail-arm servo's range from 90° to 180° and allow adjustment of the center position. You'll notice two servo-trays in the pictures; the other one is for the Macedonian frigate model. As the year went on, I installed bumpkins for and aft. Got some gold dry-transfer lettering and put her name on her stern. Made t'gallant/royal masts.Made a servo arm for the rudder servo that had cleats to allow steering cable adjustment. And installed fairleads for the running rigging below. All things that had to get done in order to put the spardeck on.
This would be the first time I ever put something on public display. Well, some drawings went up in a high school art show, but this was certainly the first model. The Port Expo had set up a pool on the dock next to the N.S. Savannah. It was windy, with the wind whipping around the ship every which way. The pool wasn't deep enough for the model to sail, so she just sat there tied off to one end, or down in the lee corner. Not a big deal, but I got to talk to a few folks about her, and that was fun. One of the other modelers told me about the model expo at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St Michaels Maryland, in just two weeks! Last time I had been to that museum I went on a 170 foot barkentine, this time the boat would be a little smaller. There was no way I was going to get much work done on the model in the time I had, but there was something I wanted to try out. From the start I had a sail-arm servo set-up to handle the fore-and-aft sails, but I hadn't worked out how it would work. The heads'ls over-lapped and each had two sheets. When the model come-about, the heads'ls needed to be hauled over the stays to the other side. When sailing a real boat, like my 16 footer 'Lydia,' it's the same thing. When you start to come about, you cast-off the jib sheet. As the boat comes across the wind, the jib luffs and comes across mostly on it own. The the new sheet is hauled in and made fast. I wanted to emulate that on the model. My solution was two loose arms with the servo arm between them. The servo pushes one or the other of the loose arms to sheet the heads'ls - but not both. Center the servo and both jib-sheets are slack. It's incredibly simple and works on a single servo. I cobbled the system together in time for St Michaels. We also got one of those pop-up tents, and a folding table. I was taking the Pride of Baltimore model, and the Macedonian hull as well. I was getting into this public display thing. The Model Expo was great. There were a boat-load of modeler's and model there. The pool was much larger, but it was still too shallow, and Stella ran aground after sailing only a few feet. Only Constellation went in the water, but all three models got a lot of attention and I spent a lot of time talking to folks about them. The jib-sheeter worked great, though the servo only had 90° of travel and the Dx6 isn't programmable that way. When I got home, I went right to work on another control mechanism I wanted to try - the sliding-winch.
Altered Krick Lisa M model kit seeking realism. Inspired on 1970s 40, 42 and 43 Hatteras, Uniflite and Viking Double Cabin American yachts. 9v LED navigation lights system. Approx. 1/20 scale. Real life boat could be nearly 39 x 13.7 feet. Similar real-life Hatteras 40 Double Cabin yacht measured 41 x 13.7 feet. Runs with NiMH 9.4v battery, an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor 14.4V, and a 40mm 3 blade propeller.😁
Decided to advance LI-PO plans and try a 4S 4000mAh pack. This weight of this pack reduced overall model weight by 8 oz, so it is now 9.6 lbs, close to the original target. Was also to slide the pack further sternwards until it touched the inner face of the RIB slipway, about 2.5” from the stern. The effect on the waterline was limited; the model now sits slightly higher with the waterline remaining level. Slowly increased the speed of the motors to assess the LI-PO performance. There was a significant improvement. There is no need to use “ full” power as it probably exceeds max scale speed. As the model accelerates the bow lifts exposing an area of the red bottom paint. The wake streams down the side of the vessel and curls off the spray rails. She looks very realistic. The attached picture is at part speed. The model is totally controllable, the influence of the centre fins is noticeable as the heeling is not pronounced unless extreme manoeuvring is tried. After 90 minutes of use decided all original objectives for the model are now accomplished. She looks and performs well. The next task is to tidy up the temporary wiring and fit the LI-PO properly. Will also have to re-route more accessories through the voltage reducer fitted for the bow thruster so the LED lights are not overpowered. Have also bought a small r/c controlled child’s jet ski toy with the intention is using the drive and control system in the RIB. It will require much mutilation of both the jet ski and the RIB to work them in together, but think it can be achieved. My next blog will tell.
Greetings, I'm having the same predicament as JTodd. I'm trying to register a group in Germany but when I get to post I receive the message "That location could not be found. Try entering a different address" I've been a member since 2014, so I think there's something else in the system. Perhaps it may only recognize UK addresses?