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>> Home > Tags > system

system
system
Radio in a yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 20 hours ago
Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

MTB379 by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 39" MTB379 Capable of 14mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries - Comments: This model was originally built by my father in the 50's for i.c. power. It was laid up in 1962 and remained inactive until two years ago. At that point, I egan recommissioning it, fitting twin brushless motors in place of the deafening single glow motor and straight-cut gears. I also added a great deal detail that my dad had never added. It performs very well nicely in this guise with the added drama of a throttle-linked digital sound system.

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi all, a 1/16th scale model of the boat I used to live on at Burnham-on-Crouch. 1/8th" Cuban (yes really!) mahogany from 1920s chairs made by my cabinet maker Grandfather. Covered in J cloth and epoxy. J-cloth is very compliant, but yet very strong when soaked in epoxy (WEST System). Lightweight fillered for the bits where the saw wasn't as accurate ripping the strips as it might have been. Black enamel primer.

Radio in a yacht by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Not sure about the 6v in your winch Martin all I can say is one of my many many models (boats planes and cars) is a one meter racing class yacht, now I can't remember for the life of me which winch servo I fitted, it was 15 years ago. I do not race the yacht now just pootle about the lake and all I have ever used is four Duracell AA 4.8v batteries (other makes are available) in the boat serving the receiver the winch and rudder, the winch works fine, ok in strong winds if tacking X wind the sails may not draw in quickly but I normally wait until I'm turning and the boat is momentarily into wind before winching in (hope that makes sense). I'm sure the serious racing boys will be able to explain further. I can remember using a dedicated 4.8v battery serving my retract servo in a large scale aircraft many years ago but can't remember at the mo' how it was wired into the system. Norman.

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I would avoid using pen cells you really need rechargeable since they can deliver more current without sagging and a sail winch when pulling in a sail can require quite a bit. The function/channel bit gets me also I remember when you needed 2 channels per surface ( leave out single channel) back when reed was the norm. Early propo systems used function because 4 function was the equivalent of an 8 channel reed setup.( actually 12 channel since it included trims). It now seems that function has been replaced with channel just cos.

It's a sad day!. by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
I can well imagine how you feel about your i.c. models. My recent renovation/recommissioning of my late father's Vosper MTB is kind of ironic in that it last ran in 1962 when noise suddenly became an issue. Mind you, it was VERY loud. My rebuild, needless to say, was centred around brushless motors and lipo's. But I also put an excellent sound system into it as it was so quiet. The system, by Action Electronics and is nice and loud as per the full-size but it does seem ironic that I felt the need to put sound(noise) back in! I use lots of small diesels in free-flight model aircraft and still hugely enjoy getting them 'singing' and savouring the wonderful smell in the car going home afterwards!

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks you guys for your replies, my old club used to have a wonderful system which was:- on the hour electrics could use the water and on the half hour I.C. Had the water, it worked great👌everybody was happy😁. However several years ago it was decided to ban all I.C.s. It's a shame because I've never seen the crowds of public spectators a Sunday of "flatie" racing used to draw, small highly tunes boats racing around three boys😭. Never mind onwards and upwards with brushless and lipos.

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

Emma C. Berry Conversion by Grumpy1949 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
I got my first kit back in 1974. It went to god during a house shift. Over the last 4 yeays i have built another 2 Emmas. The first is a 30in model ofthe schooner rig and recently a 48in model of the original single masted smack. The schooner is fitted with a bulb keel tee shaped and sails beautifully in all strengths of wind. The smack is a 5 knot max sail due to the massive amount of sail area. The smack was fitted with a pond bulb seal as most of its sailing was in reedy ponds. The winch system on both boats sre endless which work beautifully using 6v. I have a heap of photos if reqd

Huntsman 31 by chwk7 Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Thought I should post proof of been a model boat builder after posting up photo's of the real thing. Scratch built running twin Irvins 61's with an engine sync system, 7 year build time as a house restoration got in the way! Chris

Scudder by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Good thinking with the built in flotation.Nice to see an old plan being used.Vic Smeed had some good plans.Good to see it being upgraded to modern power system.

Proboat Impulse 31 by Flack Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
Used Proboat "Impulse 31" in good condition. Deep "V" ready to run speedboat capable of 45+mph 1750kv 4 pole water cooled brushless motor Dynamite 120amp water cooled electronic speed controller Flex shaft drive system Offset rudder set up Use with dual LiPO's with EC5 connectors (batteries not supplied) 2.4Ghz upgraded Spektrum DX4C transmitter and SR210 receiver. Length 31 inches (787mm) Beam 9 inches (229mm) Height 3.66 inches (93mm) £200 plus p&p

RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero by CB90 Commander   Posted: 30 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 34"/2500g RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a Bullet 30 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 24v 15A Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Ebay job £50 Old Vintage Aero kit 34in Fire boat needing a lot of attention, with delaminating plywood, old glue, old glow-plug engine mounts with electric conversion, and after removing a metal shield I discover an vintage (1970,s Ripmax Bullet 30 Motor the dogs bollocks of electric racing of its time capable of running 24v at 15A. 300W for a brushed motor. Started by revamp rear pit by lowering servo and rudder and building sub deck, storage lockers, tow hook and ladders. Remount the motor with an aluminium mount with custom screw positions. Block windows with 1mm ply. Foam front half of hull to make unsinkable. Make centre decking area. Repair and build up on cabin roofs and walls to centre deck. Rewire add ESC and servo. Remove broken and unusable fittings such as large vents, some missing unable to match again. Problems with old gloss paint crazing the modern spay paints. Build some fittings eg Water cannons, life belts, Build new battery trays, Painting the boat now in progress as of 20/04/2018 Boat has be roughly painted but is not finished, as fittings are now required, added a RC system an gave it a test run. the performance was adequate on 14.4v and great on 17.2v see latter pictures on the pond. the motor did get hot after about half hour of use. the motor is rated at 24v but I think a smaller prop will be required for that voltage. Excellent performance from a brushed motor. Added some stickers and I have now added a 12v fan and ventilation between cabins as the motor required some cooling and was in a sealed compartment.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.