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I thought you were going to bed! Hadn't thought about transducers, but Octman has a Southampton tug and he fitted them, to no effect. May be the same discussion. I'll ask him. Thanks for the tip. I have the same sound system in my Sovereignty and I put the 4" speaker under the compass platform. I then drilled many small holes in the deck, which sounds terrible, but doesn't look amiss (even better with the 'monsoon roof' on) and works well. Steve
"The other complication is that I also want to use the funnels to let the sound out for my Shockwave2 sound system." Hmmm! Hope the birdies enjoy the sound! Cos it'll just go straight up🤔 If I can fit 'em in I will try the little transducers stuck to the inside of the hull, to use the hull side as a sound board to send the sound sideways across the water and not up into the sky. There was a discussion here about these a while ago wrt a Southampton tug upgrade! Doug 😎
Hi Doug. I'm very much the novice with smoke so although the 6v gives enough for one funnel, a fan may be necessary. Real smoke rises of course and I didn't realise that the generated stuff falls as well. There is enough room in the funnel, but as you say, no updraft. The other complication is that I also want to use the funnels to let the sound out for my Shockwave2 sound system. All good fun. Going to bed now. Steve
Mornin' Steve, that's exactly what I intend to do, 👍 but with a fan I can switch on/off remotely just to see what happens, or doesn't as the case may be 😉 Bench test of such a system is somewhere in the bottom third of my To do / To Try list. So many ideas - so little time 😲 Whatever, it's fun finding out ain' it? I've also been wondering about the new generation of oil-less generators, such as http://www.marksmodelbits.com/ Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Peter, The Bissy was only in the Baltic for running up and training. In Unternehmung Rheinübung, foray into the Atlantic and the Battle in the Iceland Straight (sorry Denmark Straight), she would have had the normal light grey plus possibly camo colours, here, yer pays yer money and ya takes yer choice! 'As built' she would have been all DKM Hellgrau / Silbergrau (Light / Silver grey) #50 (that's the Lifecolor #UA 601) on the slipway. All the docus, vids and photos I have found don't seem to show any significant camo paint!? Only pic I ever found of Bizzy in camouflage paint is of the Graupner Premium model. Can't find any official record of it. There is some evidence of cammo paint on her sister ship Tirpitz, but it didn't help her, she spent most of her life bottled up in a Norwegian Fjord where she got flattened by Lancs! Cheers Doug 😎 Re Enamel: Maybe attached charts will help you find an acrylic equivalent😉 I will use the Lifecolor 601for mine. PS Bismarck had No later life!! One operation, one ship sunk (Hood 😭😭) and that was that! Can heartily recommend the old 1960 Kenneth More film 'Sink The Bismarck' 👍 Stirring stuff Old Chap, stiff upper lip stuff from the days when we still had a real Navy and hadn't swapped our overseas bases for 50 ancient rust bucket WWI destroyers🤔 By the by: during my 32 years working here (in Naval COMMS systems) I was frequently in the Blohm & Voss HQ in Hamburg, saw several superb yard models of their ships including Bismarck, and many photos, but never a one with camouflage. PPS: as far as i can establish the 'Baltic light grey' was only used on the top sides of smaller U-Boats operating in the relatively shallow Baltic waters. Maybe also a few small combatants such as Schnellboote, Minenjäger etc.
Thank you Boatshed, much appreciated 😊 All the materials used, and the sequence, are shown above with some links to the suppliers. Secret ingredient is patience! What makes the big difference to the final gloss is the protective lacquer from the two part system used on cars these days, followed by two stage cutting back and polishing - WHEN the lacquer is fully hardened! I use a halogen lamp to speed up the hardening a bit😉 Big difference from what I started with - see pics!😁 Happy lacquering, Doug 😎
Having sorted the wooden deck, I would now like to have smoke from the funnels (no pleasing some folks you may say!). I have no experience of smoke generators, but I have just got a Graupner 12v system. I am hoping it will generate enough so I can just use the one and manifold it - with brass tubing perhaps? - through both funnels. Can anyone help please? Thanks Steve
As I mentioned in a previous post I want to put some detail into the cabin and in order to do this I wanted the roof to open so that the detail can be seen and also giving good access for construction and detailing. So I looked at various lifting lever systems and the one which gave greatest access and took minimal room was a simple parallel bar mechanism. I first made a card model to ensure it worked before investing a lot of work in making the real thing. I used some brass plate cut into 3 x 2mm strips and using 10BA fastenings I constructed the levers and securing plates. Before fitting the mechanism and cutting any roof trusses I tried the mechanism using the brass bars and a card roof replica to once again prove its operation. I then added further cross beams to ensure the roof frame stays stable when the roof is lifted and that the roof skins had sufficient support when closed. All through this design and make session the cabin frame was only secured by temporary pins and had and no roof skins fitted, this enabled it to be lifted off in one piece whilst working on the frame. Now the mechanism works the cabin detail can be finished before finally fitting the roof skins.
Hi CB, Re 'Faraday Cage: I see what you're getting at, of course you are correct that a sealed and grounded metal box would shield the surroundings from spark generated RFI. The 'box' would need to be 'hermetically and electrically sealed', not easy with prop shaft an' all. One hole is enough and Whoops, all those nasty waves have escaped😡. But actually a Faraday Cage works the other way round! It's purpose is to protect people and 'things' inside the cage from outside influences such as high voltage discharge (e.g. lightning) or unwanted radio or other high energy waves by conducting them around the outer skin of the cage to ground. I sat in one during my years of development of mobile radio systems to try to make sure that my test measurements weren't being falsified by external influences. I also didn't want to ruin the tests and alignments my 'bods' were doing on the current production equipment just outside😉 I also had the pleasure 🤔 about 30 years ago of standing inside one at the Deutsches Museum while about a million volts was fired at it! Hair raising😲 but I'm still here to tell the tale😊 and bore the pants off you all😁 Happy suppressing all, cheers Doug 😎
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.
PT 109 was one of the hundreds of motor torpedo boats (PT) of the PT 103 class completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco Naval Division of Electric Boat Company at Bayonne, New Jersey. The Elco boats were the largest in size of the three types of PT boats built for U.S. use during World War II. Wooden-hulled, 80 feet long with a 20-foot, 8-inch beam, the Elco PT boats had three 12-cylinder Packard gasoline engines generating a total of 4,500 horsepower for a designed speed of 41 knots. With accommodations for 3 officers and 14 men, the crew varied from 12 to 14. Its full-load displacement was 56 tons. Early Elco boats had two 20mm guns, four .50-caliber machine guns, and two or four 21-inch torpedo tubes. Some of them carried depth charges or mine racks. Later boats mounted one 40mm gun and four torpedo launching racks. Many boats received ad-hoc refits at advanced bases, mounting such light guns as Army Air Forces 37mm aircraft guns and even Japanese 23mm guns. Some PTs later received rocket launchers. This Proboat PT 109 model was brought in 2013 for £100 these boats are rare now, This one had a few faults with the propshafts they were bent and noisy both were replaced, with quality 4mm shafts, motors twin 600s were also replaced by Graupner versions along with mounts and couplings, basically all the running gear, also two ESCs by Aquapower were added and a 2.4G RC system.
This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet. The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about £25 from Amazon. These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead. I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors the second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors. The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same couplings and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder. The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less Specifications: KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV RPM: 50000 Max Current: 42A
Sure did Ed! I'm on the second glass now 😉 Down the hatch! I'm down to the 3000 grit now - just about to start the gloss coats. Sorry Steve 🤔 this has nowt to do with Ranking 😲 Glad to see you found some inspiration in my graphics though👍 Will continue with an updated Build Blog later. Cheers Doug 😎