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>> Home > Tags > tamiya

tamiya
tamiya
Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Thanks Skipper, the charger that I have does have Tamiya connections, but can I use the existing charger that I have or should I buy another one for the compact battery? I don't want to damage the new battery when it arrives.... Cheers

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Captain   Posted: 8 days ago
Richard the battery should come with the standard tamiya connection

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Boatshed, Know what you mean about brushing and brushes! You CAN achieve the same effect with brushes, but it takes much longer, with much more flattening in between coats. So much more 'secret ingredient is needed! Brushes from DIY shops, and most model shops, you can forget 🤔 too synthetic, too coarse and too prone to shedding hairs. 😡 For tiny detailing work, esp on Plastic Magic projects, I went to an art supplies store! Prompted by the GF who is into oil and water colour painting! There you will find a great selection of very fine real hair brushes in sizes from 'Help I can't see it'! to about 1" flat, used for applying 'washes' 😉 Not cheap, but quality never is! For example; I'm using a 1/4" flat camel hair brush for renovating the wood decks of my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast with sealer and satin varnish from the Lord nelson range. Will also apply some Jotica Oak stain to dampen the bright colour a bit. For the pinstripe / Boot Topping on the Sea Scout I'm 'Going for Gold', to be applied with the finest airbrush nozzle I have and using Tamiya masking tape to get a good clean edge. hardest part will be getting the tape on right 😲 Hope I don't mess up what I have already achieved! Cheers Doug 😎

Bollard Hieght! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Doug, All I saw was the grey, Reminded me of my Navy days! Thanks for the paint chart! It really helps a lot. The #90, Beige Green matt is what I'm looking for! I've use Tamiya paints in the past! Liked the way the paint went on smoothly on to the surface! Yes, I will be asking a lot about the LED's connection! I'll be using 3mm LED's. Steve (Cormorant). Was very kind to send me some to me. also a smoke generator which is not tested yet! Have to order the fuel for it!

Bollard Hieght! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy frigate, probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stash😉 Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a Humbrol wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration 😉 How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and Italeri acrylics. Cheers Doug 😎

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
Greetings Doug, Wow! you do have a collection, and I thought I had plenty, is your enterprise the tamiya one, now, but they seemed to have vanished, what colour paint would you suggest for my Bismarck I bought the Lifecolor German Navy WWII set 1, but not enough paint for the whole ship, Trumpeter quote UA603 Hellgrau DKM 50...but what light grey?🤔 cheers Peter

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi MB, can only say what I have which works and I ain't set the house on fire yet 😉 Not surprisingly for someone living in Munich both mine are from German companies! Robbe Power peak Uni 7 and Graupner Unimat 14. There are later versions of both around nowadays but you can still find these on Amazon / Ebay etc. Both of them have automated programmes for various Lithium types, NiMH / NiCad (not recommended these days!) and SLAs. Robbe is now defunct and their Marine stuff taken over by Graupner and marketed as RoMarin! Pics also show the Balancer Adaptor Boards, necessary to connect the balancer cable of the battery. This ensures that each cell is equally charged 😊 I also included in the pics the little battery Capacity Testers I use. They cost around a tenner and are very useful for checking the capacity before a run or charging, as well as the voltage and capacity of each cell, which gives an indication of the battery condition. I found some duff cells with the tester in a few batteries I'd only just bought 😡 When looking for / buying a charger look also for a LiPo Safe bag to charge them in. E.g. LiPo Guard. Charger may cost 50 quid upwards depending on how many charging outlets you want and how many Bells & Whistles. But I get on well with these two 😉 I like the Robbe version cos I can charge two LiPos at the same time. Also in the pics are a few of the charging cables I made up with gold 4mm bullet plugs for the charger end and Tamiya and BEC (for my Plastic magic stuff!) at the batt end. Such adaptor cables are also available 'ready made' but I just like fiddlin' 😊 Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 Nearly forgot! Can't say for sure what current your motor will draw cos I don't know all the other details, but a 40" boat will need some shove! So I wouldn't go below the 5000mAH if you want a half decent run time. A 40" boat can carry a bit of weight! And batt power is more useful than pure ballast 😉 Recommend a little Wattmeter to check the max current draw - see last pic. Basic theory! A fully charged 5000mAh (or 5AH) batt can theoretically deliver 5A for one hour, or 10A for half an hour and so on! Say your set up draws 20A with the 'pedal to the metal' then a 5000mAH batt will 'theoretically' last 15 minutes. Theoretically cos other factors are in play; initial charge state, temperature, internal resistance of the cells, cable losses etc. The latter is why I only use gold connectors! The higher the batt capacity the higher the price and weight. So suggest you start with the 5000 and see how (long) it goes. Then check the weights of higher capacity batts (and the bank account / management approval😉) Bon chance mon ami!

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. If you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway. Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge. This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉 These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1. The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat. Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck. Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊 Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6. After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10. Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁 BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉 Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour! E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black! So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎

New drive Train and Oiler by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😡 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.😉 To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😡 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crème Brûlée!! So do I, delicious 😜😉 The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. Ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? 😁 Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!

Just getting started by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
... as well as set squares (30/60 & 45/45), compass and dividers. Tamiya masking and trim tape is also very good for when it comes to the painting. They give good clean sharp edges 😊 Happy shopping, time to bash the credit cards! Cheers Doug 😎

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

Tamiya- King George V. Update. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Still painting small parts, but have been limited by illness since November. Also looking for suitable motors. Have decided to use the props supplied, well two of them. Made propshafts from 1mm stainless steel and shaft tubes from 2mm O.D. brass tube. Just need to cut to length, once I have the motors. Will update again soon.

Hull ready to paint! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Planking done, deck stained, some deck detail added (most detailing will follow painting and varnishing). Hull has had a good sanding with wet n dry and has had the grey primer added. Have also given the bottom of the hull a coat of red oxide primer. Following this and any blemish removal, I will get the airbrush fired up for Tamiya hull red for the bottom and then humbrol midnight blue for the upper hull sides. This will be separated with a strip of white trimline before adding rounders and lettering prior to laquer.

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY by Les-Forbes Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks again Dave. Keeping with this same battery, can you tell me please if this battery has a JST, DEANS STYLE, MINI-TAMIYA, or a XT60 connector.