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Hi Gordon I restored a tarpon about 2 years ago, I received it in a very bad state, holes cracks all over the boat, I put a 457RE385 motor 6-15 volts MFA combo drills, tried it with a 12 volt much to fast I run it with 7.5 volt still fast, a 6 volt would be ok, the tarpon is not the best boat on the turn it does roll a bit, the photos on the water is with a 7.5 volt powering the motor, hope this helps. Cheers Dennis
Hi Gordon, "the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I reckon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery." In that case an SLA (especially the types produced to power alarm and emergency lighting systems) would be your best bet. They can be left on trickle charge indefinitely. Two 6V in series might be better than one 12V to help with trimming out the boat. I use a pair of 6V 3Ah (about 600gm each) in my 135cm destroyer and 107cm submarine. They run for hours if I don't keep the pedal to the metal all the time. 😉 Back home I stick 'em on the trickle charger and leave 'em until the next outing. They've lasted my several years so far. Much longer than my NiMhs. An NiMh looses approx 1% of it's charge per day. So, assuming it starts fully charged, in 3 months or less it would be in Deep Discharge and have joined the Dodos😭 Cheers, Doug 😎
Looking for more help please. I have settled for the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) with the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC driving a 3 blade brass 35mm prop. I need advise on what size of NiMh pack to use and will it be under propped with the 35mm 3 blade?
Well I had one of these back in the early 1970,s been looking for years for another one must of been a rare boat. So I was surprised when this turned up on eBay last week. So I had to buy it, the seller did not mention that the engine a Merco 35 was locked solid and all the head bolts were missing and the whole inside of the boat was soaked in sticky castor oil exhaust residue, but this is how I like them loft fresh and not messed with. I don’t think it’s hardly been used, I managed to get the engine apart after heating it up with a blow lamp looks like it’s hardly been run but the liner got a fair bit of rust on it so not sure I can use it. The only thing to remove the sticky castor oil was 25% nitro fuel, the one I bought in the 70,s cost me £27 this wreck I bought in 2018 £70 but I will enjoy restoring it, this is the boat as how I got it and now with the engine out that was another nightmare 😁
Thanks Steve, my choice would have been lead acid, but the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I recon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery. So my choice now is a NiMh Pack SubC of 9.8 or12V, minimum 5000mah in case he blows hiself up using LiPo's. I want the boat to have a speed around a brisk walking pace. Thank you again for your reply.
Pretty boat that. Probably know as much about motors as you do but, What may make a difference is what battery you intend to use, Style of boat does not make for rushing about the pond so a 12v lead acid battery would probably be in order in which case the 12v nominal motor would suit. If you plan to use Nicad 7.2v battery then the other motor is more suited. waits to be shot down or should that be scuttled. Steve
Need help in selecting and matching motor, battery, ESC, prop etc. for my 1958 Tarpon scratch built from MM 494 plan. I am years out of date with the hobby and a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing! I have purchased a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) and an Mtroniks Speed M600 12 Volt. I also purchased the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC . Please advise if I am on the right track and which motor to use. Also need help on prop and battery selection. Thank you, Gordon
[Score: 5/10] 36"/1000g Tarpon Single Propellor Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volts Controlled Through Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 ESC - Comments: Scatch built in 1959 from MM 494 plan, laid up till 1985 and now, 2018 being given a new lease of life (I hope)!. Some details are void as I need advice on what prop and battery to select.
The Sea Commander and others from the 1960s all seem to lack any real waterline. Primarily they were designed to race round the sailing waters whilst runing a IC engine and were not normally static the water unlike today. We have several in our club and I have attached a few pics. The Tarpon was a similar model and the waterline is shown on the example. Two shots of my Sea Queen at rest and at low speed. The propshaft adjustment from the original design is minimal, really just lowering the angle to allow the motor to sit lower whilst allowing the prop to clear the hull. On all my models I fit the shaft in a slot in the keel and make good with Car Body filler (Plastic Padding). This avoids the possibility of twisting or bending the shaft when fitting in a tight slot. Merry Christmas and I hope Santa brings you all you desire.