Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
January 2019: 14 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 19 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (82)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > taycol

taycol
ctaycol
taycol
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
"........Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...." That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified circuit? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post? ".........Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'? Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

Sea Trials and mods. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

New knee, outdoor trials begin. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi fellow boaters, tomorrow is the day I have the staples out on my new knee. And starting Monday at knee clinic, so far so good, movement is good enough to allow me to walk with my crutches, most of the post operation swelling is gone now, a bit of bruising still, only a few painful reminders when I try to stretch or bend it. But should be back modelling very soon. Looking forward to getting my dad's old sea commander ready for the taycol supermarine being restored by Doug in Munich. Well that's all for now folk's, Cheers Colin.

Ship rudders by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Toby, I'm back😁 Pardon the delay, just finished tidying up the wiring and final running tests on Colin's Taycol Supermarine motor and converter board - to make it run off a standard brushed ESC! The rivets look great👍 and the last pic was much better as well😊 Soooo many rivets 😲 guess you have to do them in batches, and then go pull up a tree or something, or you'd go doolally 😡 And I thought I was patient doing all the portholes and stanchions on my 4' 6" 1936 destroyer - that was ONLY hundreds! Rivets? Didn't even contemplate that!! I think you should continue this in a proper Build Blog - there's lotsa good stuff you're doing here👍 And at the end you can make a pdf file of the whole story with just a few clicks😉 Be a nice memento👍 Look forward to the Launch Report. During my career I attended the launches of several naval ships I had worked on,designing the COMMS systems. The funniest one was a glass fibre minehunter at the Intermarine yard in Italy near La Spezia. The ship was still in dry dock, like a huge bath. They turned on the 'taps' and slowly up came the ship! Keep up the good work, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; were you sitting on the saw to help keep awake? 😁😁

fuse holder by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin bearings if you did that...

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' JB, Guess I'll have to remain 'agnostic' on this issue for now - I'm still to be convinced. This might explain a phenomenon I've noticed during testing of the Taycol Supermarine I've just renovated for Colin. More on that later in the 'Supermarine resurrection' blog. I'll do some experiments using my digital scope and see if I can trap and measure these elusive spikes for various wire lengths😉 Can't comment on the guy from Castle, don't know them, except to say that I found his comments a bit vague and without explanation. There are also contradictory posts on that link; some say before the ESC some after. Can't really see the point of putting the caps in front of the ESC, switching spikes SHOULD only appear on the output side I'll look at that on the scope, and after all a fuse to protect against fouled prop and jammed motor is standard fit between battery and ESC, or should be! So some wiring extension for that is essential. Also I would expect the battery to flatten any spikes that do appear at the ESC supply side. As you say the internals of several 'manufacturers' ESCs are often the same. Nothing new, branding and badge engineering has been going on for decades for all sorts of things and no RC kit manufacturer / distributor produces his own components. Important factors are; quality of his own assembly and where does he buy his components - originals or cheap copies? 28 ESCs! Wow 😲 and I thought I had a lot! As reported I have so far had good results with the Quicrun series, both brushed and brushless. Next one to test is their Dual Brushed version. Prior to going brushless I used a lot of Graupner ESCs - made in Korea., never managed to blow one of them either, not even the little micro and pico jobs. Thanks for raising this issue - I like a good debate and we can all learn something from it I hope👍 Plus; piquing my curiosity is always dangerous 😁 Greetings to Down Under from 'Up Over', cheers, 😎Doug PS Further thought just struck me (Ouch😡); if this is really a dramatic problem why have I never seen any warnings about it in any ESC instructions? Yes, I'm THAT guy who actually reads the instructions!!

fuse holder by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK Roger Wilco Dodgy, Which Taycol(s) do you have? 😎

fuse holder by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎

fuse holder by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'?

fuse holder by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yep!👍 https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p95-indicator-fuse-boards-si... Spec attached as pdf. Strictly speaking the LED simply indicates the polarity of the voltage applied to it. Which way the motor turns depends on how you wired it. But it does help with setting up the wiring and response to TX throttle stick.😉 Easy enough to make though, as I did for my Sea Scout. See pic of 'Engine Room'. Or the Taycol field motor converter boards I've made for Martin and Colin. Two fuses are fitted; one for the field coil, one for the armature. Last two pics. Resettable fuses (contact breakers) are also available to fit these holders. Cheers, Doug 😎

Are these any good by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' John, (Well it is here!) I have something very similar and it works well, was using it tonight to make some test leads for Colins Taycol Supermarine, which is chuntering away behind me running in it's new bearings 😉 If you don't already have such a tool Go for it👍 Benefit of that one is that it has interchangeable heads for different sizes, Better 'n mine 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

Mini lathe by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Aha! You mean the 'Lego Lathe'!! Lotsa blocks you can shove together to make a lathe or milling machine or .... Agree about the motor, not big enough or man enough for the job. I bought one at an exhibition some years ago, it's buried in the workshop somewhere.😲 Nowadays I mostly use my little Proxxon FD150/E. Just used it to make some parts for Colin's Taycol Supermarine renovation. Simple uncomplicated machine, good for small parts. Cheers, Doug 😎

Wild Duck Sailboat article by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'😉 Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into Windows 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening window displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! It will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking😲 (again😁)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new bearings and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.😊 Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug 😎

A return to the hobby! by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Now now children let's not start another war by hijacking another thread. Taycol is a superb motor whether refurbished to modern standards or totally original, so please let's not waste any time arguing. Cheers Colin.