Mornin' 😲Martin, Yeah, I thought the TX was good for both too. I bought it 'off the shelf' in Conrad, in Tal here in Munich. Then much later in the small print on Spektrum's website I read - "DSM2 not for EU models'! 😡 Odd! UK was also in the EU then!? Will PM U wot I paid for it. Came from HobbyKing - Where else? No wonder model shops are dying like flies 🤔 You're right about plane size. Last one I built (a few decades ago🤔) was the little Simprop 'Zaunkönig' (= Wren). After I 'd built it I looked at the short double decker wings, about the length of my forearm!, and cut the top plane down the middle and added a centre section to about double the span for more lift, and hopefully to make it less twitchy.See pics. Last pic is the sad mucky state when I found it in the cellar last year. Shortly after that I moved to Munich and had my hands full with other concerns. Still got the Enya 047 Glowplug and fuel tank intended for it somewhere! Might try fitting a brushless instead. When I was a kid, around 13 / 14, I made a scratch built (no plan - just 'thinks'!) free flight (RC? Wossat?) soarer. Basically 3 planks of 36x4x1/4" hard balsa. 72" span, 36" tail boom fuselage. That was BIG in those days. Bloody thing climbed and flew so well on it's Maiden that the last I saw of it was at zig thousand(?) feet over Hemswell Cliff in Lincolnshire heading due east at a rate of knots 🤔 Had launched it from the top of the water tower at RAF Hemswell, Dad was a Crew Chief on Thor missiles there. Hope someone in Denmark or Norway had some fun with it 😉 I've often wondered where it ended up. Must dig my Flying Boat / Wing outta the cellar! BTW: the foam wing/flying boat and Catalina arrived as kits with the foam cutting already done😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: I still have the Glow-plugs I bought for the 'Zaunkönig', intend to try them as ignition for Flash Paper firing of depth charge throwers and guns on my destroyer. One has to have dreams or there's no progress! 😁 G'night all 😎
Hi Pete, since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:- https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limi... Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! It's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?' https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-p... Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'. 2nd question: I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models. I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage. 3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲 Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't. Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉 I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!? Cheers, Doug 😎
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.
Just starting a scratch build of a 20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat most likely PT 109 at just over 48ins long and a beam just over 12in. Will try to construct with a combination of chine and planking construction (planking towards the bow) still need to finish of frames
Could someone advise on which motor to use in a smit amsterdam tug of approx 40 ins long with a 4 blade 3 ins dia. Prop and 4 mm. shaft, I want to run on 12v sealed lead acid battery. I am not going to tow anything but would still like a bit of power. Cheers. Neil.
I have built this from the plans as per instructions using the balsa/ply fixing with UHU Hart and it works well and the boat performs well. Had to source fittings etc from many places and those I couldn't (DF cone) I 3d printed. Use a small geared motor from component shop to power the radar scanner.
The Dumas kit (Carol Moran) mine is named Michael after my grandson. It sailed at a scale speed today. The Bunker and Ellis "Lobster Yacht" a Midwest kit, seen here towing a harbour tender. Harbour tender and Tugboat built by me. Dannieboy built the Lobster Yacht with added touches by Ron.
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local model shop whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. It was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit. With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now. Boaty😁
I'm starting to build a Veron kit of the Vosper Rescue-target towing launch, which I bought on Ebay. This boat seems quite rare - well to me anyway - although Belair sell one currently which is similar but slightly larger (34in long - mine is 28in). The kit is obviously old and if anyone knows when these were sold then please let me know. The structure is balsa - not my favourite wood - and ply for the exterior. Balsa does not hold temporary or permanent pins well, and holding things in position while the glue dries is made more difficult. The balsa has been pre-cut to shape and several of the curved pieces are weak in places where the grain is inevitably across the length of the piece. I broke several parts and needed ply backing to repair. Glue used is 5 min epoxy. The keel is made up of several pieces and to get the right shape I photocopied part of the plan and laid the parts on that to set while gluing.
Right well, just to show I am doing what i said, here are the three crew members so far. The boss man is pretty much done. He has his binoculars and arms set to hold them, but cast separately as they would be too difficult to cast all in one, as would the guy driving the boat. His arms and jumper haven't been finish shaped yet which , with the difficult camera ('phone) angle makes him look a bit pinheaded, but he isn't really. He has a yet to be finished Forage cap. Finally is the cool dude. No hat, relaxing on the tow hook deck away from the others, thinking of that little floozey back at base, smoking a roll-up. He still has a way to go. Currently he is being padded out from the ghastly superhero crap that the kids seem to love these days. I hated all that tosh when I was kid, never mind now! All I ever did with a marvel comic was light the fire with it! So, there you have 3 4 3/8th" figures. The other two are in the engine 'ole running the Meteorites, so out of sight. No idea of costs yet until my caster man sees them. I hope you might find them useful as 1/16th scale figures. Cheers, Martin
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. Installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.
Hi Haig, you're right 👍 My Akula II is only half the size of your boat at about 35" x 4 1/2" beam. So only one 750ml ballast tank. Trimming could be tricky! Although I also bought the Engel Pitch Control module. The tube is going to be pretty well packed but sliding it out will make servicing and adjustment easier (I hope😁) With the Akula's typical USSR enclosed bridge there's not much scope for crew. Could put one lookout with his head stuck out of the top hatch I suppose. Hmm! Where to get 1/125 people? As for the 1/72 U26 crew; I've got a deck gun crew set, a CO and tower lookouts & Flak gunner set, and of course I can't resist the guy peeing overboard - must remember to keep him on the lee side 😲 Happy diving👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I believe there is a mod kit for working periscopes, must look into that. Would add a little more interest.
There are 2 ballast tanks 750ml each - allowing nearly 1.5kg of ballast. I have only fixed half the crew to the boat, and only some key ones in the conning tower. You cannot see them when at a distance and certainly not underwater, so a calculated view. They do stand out on the photos so it looks more realistic. I think the newer tube internals allow for smaller subs but there is hardly any space left within this model.