Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
November 2017: 12 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 22 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (10)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > tow

tow
tow
wardrobe by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
yes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.

Battery Power and Servo Mounting 6 by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with Battery Mounting means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. It is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ

Maiden Voyage! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
So, today was the day, she sailed wonderfully on a cold crisp Needham Lake nr Stowmarket Suffolk. The water level is very low at the moment, but got away with it! The only thing I need to do is try and get a bit more rudder throw as the turning circle is quite big, however with careful throttle use she really does look the part. So, yes, I am very pleased with how this model has turned out, on the most part a joy to build. Thank you to everyone who has taken time to comment on this build. Trying to download the video thats been edited. I might have to post a link to it so it can be seen in full.

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD!

ILLINI NATIVE by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 37"/3600g ILLINI NATIVE Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (10Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS AMERICAN BEAUTY TOWBOAT KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME, THE DECK IS COVERED BY 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING PROTECTED BY MINWAX POLYURETHANE. SHE FEATURES FLANKING RUDDERS WITH RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEELS, TWIN 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAYS, TWIN 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTANS, 9V LED NAV LIGHTS WITH AMBER DECK STANDING LIGHTS AND DUAL BRUSHLESS VENT/COOLING FANS ON THE INBOARD SIDE OF THE FUNNELS (FOR THE FUN OF IT). SHE IS THE SECOND ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET SHE'S PUSHING AHEAD A SET OF DUMAS 1:48 RAKE BOW & BOX BARGES ACROSS THE WINDING CARPET RIVER

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Yes you can. It's small so not much room to get access and the rigging needs to be removeable. I have one that I converted almost 20 years ago and it sailed OK. Should be easier to fit out now as the rc gear, ESC and batteries are available in much smaller formats. Should fit well in your small pond, I don't really have anywhere safe to sail mine, hence the disrepaiur. I am attaching some photos of its present condition. Needs some restoration but hopefully shows what is possible. I used a small maxxon motor and a large brass prop over scale but it worked. The acess is via the removable cabin and the battery fits in a tray towards the front. The rx and esc fitted above the rudder servo. Have fun and please share your build.

Tug Tow by Baggie Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Wow....what a great picture and feat of mini engineering!

Tug Tow by Brightwork Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Thought you might appreciate these....Towing a 30 Ton barge with 30 Tons of metal in it at Ellesmere Port Boat Museum, 1996. Making an unofficial Record. (35 mm pics)

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
very interesting Paul, I watched the video, I have weighed the boat as best I can, using the kitchen scales, the boat without any batteries or lead is 6Ib 3 oz (2815 gms)the lead ballast is 2 Lb (915 gms)the lead acid battery is 5Ib 9oz (grams) and the two NiMH batteries are 1Ib 10oz (747 gms) the boat now has an 850 motor with a 55mm 3 bladed prop, I do not have the experience to know whether the boat is sitting correctly without the ballast but do know that if I have the lead acid 12volt battery fitted in the only place it will fit then I need the ballast in the forward compartment making the boat weigh 13 Ib (6252 gms). if you are saying that I should keep it light then I could move theNiMH batteries to the compartment rear of the motor thus moving the weight towards the back and ditch the LA battery and lead ballast, I have no idea which part of the country you reside in, is it too far for me to drive to? as your sailing pond looks a lot better than the postage stamp we have to use in Swindon.

Twin Motor Perkassa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

International Model Boat Show by glyn44 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi, I’m glad to hear that as I have a list as long as my arm. Will be attending on Friday. Hoping to buy as much as I can towards a Fairey Huntress scratch build. I am also setting up a new workshop. I am looking to get a scroll saw, table saw, and bench pillar drill. Is it all likely I may buy them at the show? I’m not sure what to expect there as this will be my first visit. Happy days.

rotating radars off mast by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for years😉 But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple direct drive coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
the scoop should be fitted behind the prop so prop wash is driving water through it whenever the motor is running and the cooling coil fits around the motor join the two up with fuel tube etc. then the other end of the coil connect to an outlet ( unless you want a self filling boat) http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cooling-coils.h... http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000029.pl?REFP... As to sitting on your boat you could put it in the water and get some one to hold it while you run the motor up and watch the current used. closing off the cooling vents to an electric motor not used in a speed model shouldn't be any problem if you have the correct prop an electric motor should only get hand warm. The temps you indicate would have burned out your motor even if there had been no covering over the motor at all. With an electric ( brushed) motor the more you load it the higher the current flow and the hotter it gets. Stall current tend towards infinity you have what I think is a 60mm prop and that's a BIG prop being 3 bladed makes the situation worse since there is increased blade area against a 2 bladed prop. If you intend to use that prop then get a motor man enough to swing it.

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Richard, Good morning, Prop first, if the blade to hub is 30mm, it is a 60mm diameter prop, think of the circle of sweep, twice the size that your 550 motor can take. As the shaft is free running, we can discount drag, simply the motor working to extreme, so we need to prop down considerably, If you are staying with the 540 motor in the pics, a 35mm 3 blade prop is the maximum, a rough guide is no bigger than the motor diameter. I would save myself a lot of problems in the future and fit a larger motor, Canabus is right a watt meter will save its readings so you can get a proper idea what the motor is doing. I would swing towards the 850, or the 700. Not expensive but safe to run with a smaller prop. The 700 might fit your mounting but the 850 will need a new one, usually supplied in the box. The Sea Commander will serve you well as a great sailing model, once you are past the teething problems. Just looked back, your first post said the hull was built in the 60's, it might have a 4ba thread, not many ba props available these days, a 4mm prop will fit but it will be tight, don't forget the locking nut (to many props at the bottom of the lake) also a thrust washer to protect the motor bearings. Mark

Motor problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Richard I suspect the prop fitted is too big for the motor. If the pond had lots of weed this will also have placed a heavy load on the motor. Ideally the prop should be a lesser diameter than the motor and preferably not too coarse a pitch. A 550 motor that you intend to fit should be fine. Do a quick run round the pond and bring into the bank to check the motor. If you can't touch without going ouch! its overloaded and you need a smaller prop. Mention has already been made about the batteries. The motor is rated at 7.2 volts so one battery is the correct voltage. If you connect two batteries in series I suspect you will see some more smoke. To help the model to come onto the plane it will help if the bulk of the ballast and weight is towards the rear. Hope this helps