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>> Home > Tags > tow

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HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hey! That's a neat trick, having the 'smokers' down below who can then give you the cigar tubes for the funnels 😁😁 Seriously though folks, nice going so far Steve👍 A while ago I bought some 3D 4.7" guns for my H class destroyer, and was very disappointed to discover that nothing could be moved and the gun shield was virtually filled solid🤔 So back to the brass snipping and bashing. I like the LifeColour as well, colours seem pretty accurate to me and easy to use than enamel. Be a while 'til I start my mini version, no bench space at the moment. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: About time you started a Build Blog ain it??

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi Doug Just had a look at Life Colour which on first sight would suit me better with the acrylic paints. Here is my first attempt at scratch building. Nothing glued down yet as I have still got plenty to do before I can put the deck in place. The funnels are cigar tubes and I have a smoker in 2 and 4. I decided to lash out on 3D printed main armament but I still need to make the gun shields. Thanks for your help and advice so far and best of luck with your 1/350 - hope you will keep me updated on progress. Cheers Steve

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Great Steve👍 Will look forward to that, bon chance mon ami, Doug 😎 BTW: 'Life Colour' might be worth a look, they do several navy paints and sets from various eras as well as cammo and weathering sets.

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 hours ago
Thanks very much Doug. Certainly gives me a lot to go on. I'm building her to RN spec prior to conversion for St Nazaire raid. I am looking to do 'cammo' pattern and also have my first go at weathering. I will send you some pics soon. Cheers Steve

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi John, Attached is the old Colour Coats Naval Paints chart form White ensign Models. It's based on original navy Paint Chips apparently. Of course precisely how the colours look on your device will depend on the settings of the display! But it gives you a comparison of the colours. Here's a brief history of Cambletown, ex Buchanan D131 if you want to build the USN version. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/HMS_Campbel style='background-color:yellow;'>town_(I42) From this it can be seen the she operated either in the Western Approaches or on the West Africa convoy routes. So I think that Medium grey (RN02) is a bit dark, more suited to North Atlantic convoy duty perhaps? I would go for Light grey RN03 or M23 Light Admiralty grey for the hull and upperworks with Medium greenish grey RN06 for the decks. If you want to go 'Cammo pattern' the Western Approaches colours for this are also in the chart. The colour coats paints are now sold by Sovereign Hobbies https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-s... I just bought a batch from their German dealer; NNT Modell 😊 Some may not be available (Discontinued) but we can probably find near equivalents; I have several 'conversion charts' for Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya etc. My dealer still had a few tins of a Discontinued colour so it's worth asking😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by nick Apprentice   Posted: 14 hours ago
A little anecdote to add to this build is that I was used to seeing both Swordsman and Boarderer in both Portsmouth and Portland whilst I was in the RN. (1960 "s} In fact we gave one of them a "lee" ie. got to windward of her in foul weather and helped her into Portland. She had some sort of mechanical problems. The stories one of them was moored on the smaller, walled wharf that they used away from the big one we on HMS Aurora used. As I said it was another rough night, most were in Portland . A yachtsman had crept during the night and tied up behind HMS Boarderer.( restricted area) Capt. told number one to go get the yachtsman to move his boat. Time was about 0400. Very tired yachty told no.1 to F off. No. 1 came back onboard and relaid to the skipper who went down reraised the yachty and got the same message! Skipper came back onboard and contacted the engine room and as it happened got a 'wet" start on the turbines. The loosely stowed sails on the yacht melted rather well!! Moral to the tale, Never tell a sailor to F off!! Bye the way both these boats had a top speed in good conditions , of in excess of 80 knots and in theory could circumnavigate uk in 12 hours. I remember that the always ran very flat on the water at planing speed. Regards, Nick.

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator Circuits of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS If you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Doug My build progresses well and I need to start painting. I am unsure on what shade of grey to use. On previous warships I have used mid sea grey, but it looks to be a bit too dark. All the photos I have got are in black and white which doesn't help. Any thoughts? Steve

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. If the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.

EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas by boaty Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Found on E Bay but sold in June of this year, a 42 inch kit of a Simplas Marine Construction Vosper M.T.B. It would appear that there are not many about now. I built one in 1972 and the kit contained a fibreglass hull with all fittings including the guns being in cast metal. Deck and superstructure were plywood and the boat was a model of an early Vosper as it had a very narrow beam and torpedo tubes were towards the stern. I fitted a DC Sabre 1.5cc diesel but had to add a lot of ballast which resulted in a sharp drop in performance. This was solved by replacing the Sabre with a Fuji 15 marine version glowplug engine . The boat was free running and as I was on an apprentice engineers pay and could not afford r.c.as I was having to support an ageing Mini. This was my transport from Ellesmere Port to the boating lake in New Brighton. If I had bought a Taycol Supermarine motor it would have solved all my problems as the battery would have been the ballast. Boaty 😁

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, Doug. I’ve attached a zoomed-in photo of the “Anchor Enclosure” that’s built into the starboard bow bulwark of the Wyeforce. There’s an anchor in the box but I can’t tell for sure what kind it is. Maybe a navy-type with the fluke & bill pointed inward toward the deck? A better photo is needed to be sure, so I’ll keep looking. The enclosure itself would be simple to build & fit to the hull. I remember seeing a photo of the boat’s foredeck area that showed what may have been a hawse pipe running inboard from behind anchor enclosure & down through the deck, presumably to a winch belowdecks? Does that make sense? Pete

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Chrodite!! Blimey I thought I would never meet another person who knew that word. My friend had a load to make fixings for his tiny, but lovely Crouch sloop White Mouse. He gave me what he had left and I'm down to about a foot left, so that goes towards making prop shaft bearings, so, Doug, you've actually got a wee bit already. Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Doug: I feel like a dunce for not noticing that anchor before. It sticks out like a sore thumb if you know where to look. That’s another thing that I’m surprised hobby engine didn’t add to the boat. I guess in the long run it was easier for moldmaking purposes to omit that particular detail. That’s another thing, however, that wouldn’t be all that hard to scratchbuild. All that’s needed is to cut an opening in the bulwark & build a sheet styrene box for the housing. It’s not exactly a high priority item, but I think it would go a long way toward adding realism. So far none of the photos of the Wyforce I’ve seen show what the anchor enclosure looks like on the inside of the bulwark. Then again maybe some of them did & I missed that, too. I assume there’s an anchor winch, possibly below deck near the chain locker. I expect there’s a “drop/raise” button inside the pilot house. I’ll browse for a photo of the anchor & post it if I succeed. Thanks

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Pete, Thanks 😊 Yep, I decided to stick with 4 lights cos tha's all I see on the original 'WYEFORCE'. Yep again! I do intend to modify the two lights on the stub mast; 1 yellow 'Towing' and 1 white 'Stern'. I will also fit a wheelhouse light. Decided to do it 'fluorescent' style by fitting 2 white 3mm LEDs in the ends of a long block of 5mm perspex. After that the 2 work-deck floodlights, lower cabin lights and 2 deck lamps 1 each side of the main cabin. I'll probably link the cabin and deck lights so that they all come on together. Now pondering how to build a miniature working diesel genny to power them all😁 Good luck with your divider! You will have more wires to squash in than I did so I doubt there's room. Have fun trying. I separated the wires quite easily by keeping all the negative legs of the LEDs (that's the leg going to the larger electrode in the diode) on one side and soldering them to the brass wire negative rail first. Then I took colour coded thin 'hook-up' wire to each LED in turn; working from the top down. Cut the LED leg to 1/4", stripped the hook-up wire back 1/4", twisted the wire strands together and tinned it. Tin the LED leg as well and bend it 90° down the mast. Then it's easy to solder the wire cleanly to the LED keeping it well away from any other wires. When all was connected, and tested OK, I stuck the wires down with thick gel super glue so they can't wander about. To fit the LEDs to the mast, I removed the brackets; removed the dummy lights with a razor saw, filed the mounting flat and drilled holes for the LED legs in them, using a 0.75mm drill bit in a pin chuck, and glued the LEDs on with gluper sue. Then I bent the leads 90° back towards the mast and drilled 0.75mm holes horizontally into the mast so I could literally 'plug' the lamp bracket complete with LED straight in and glue it down. Painted matt black the leads become invisible, as in 3rd pic above😉 Winch: at least your version of the model seems to HAVE a winch! Or where did those two pics come from? Mine ain't got nuffink, just a big 'ole at the back of the cabin😭 All the best, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Hey, Doug What you’ve done so far looks terrific. I noticed that you stayed with four lights on the mast itself. I take it you’ll also replace the two “dummy“ lights on the stub mast (behind the pilot house) with working ones? I considered the same thing but I like the look of all six lights on the “main” mast. Based on how things usually work out for me I’m still going to put a divider or barrier in the mast before I button it up. If there’s the slightest ghost of a chance of a short in the wiring it’ll happen to me. Five minutes’ work & a scrap of plastic will help me sleep better. Regarding the winch, it appears to be a very simple unit (see attached photos). The large bitt/towing hook unit in the photos hides some of the winch details, but it doesn’t look like a complicated unit to model. A few pieces of plastic sheet stock, some rounds & a few bits from the spares boxes is pretty much all it’ll take. I plan to attach the winch assembly to the Deckhouse; not to the deck. The base plate for the winch will need to be shaped to fit around the horn speaker grille holes in the deck but otherwise no problems. I already have a large roll of scale rope to wind around the drum. If anyone who reads this happens to have photos or a sketch of the winch in full view please post them if you’re willing. Thanks. Pete