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Model Boats Website Team
January 2018: 11 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 3 people
BRAVO ZULU! I also love the test tank, I'm investing in a 12 x 6'er next spring. My latest builds are getting too big for the tub! It's great that you get your kids involved; I feel that RC is by far the best entertainment: Helos, planes, trains, autos & especially BOATS! Heck with the video games I say! My gr'daughter loves learning to fly the helo or me chasing her around with it. My goal is to get good enough to land on the tiny flight deck of my 1:48 USCG 210' Cutter while underway, without getting wet, of course. HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY!
Thanks Dave for letting us know - I only checked yesterday and had a good look at the Forge Electronics website. I only have a 50mm dia speaker in my large tug running at 6 volts and that is loud enough and I can hear it on t'other side of the pond, your set-up must be deafening 👍 Alan
That is avery nice pusher, sir. I have built one VAC-U-BOAT 22" HIPS kit and a 35" Dumas American Beauty. Both were given my boat shop's paint scheme (ILLINIWEK MARINE). I am multitasking on a couple boats, and one is another US Western river towboat, scratchbuilt up from a salvaged Dumas Am. Beauty hull. (That hull was temp scrapped when my xacto knife got away from me trimming the deck knuckle.) My plan is to fit a telescoping pilothouse which is common to upper Mississippi, Illinois, Ohio rivers. My dilemma is the method of operating the pilothouse lift; can you advise with any info please? I thought of a linear servo w/worm gear maybe. HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY
HI Allen, You have the early Amsterdam, like mine, plank on frame and the windows etc are stuck on the superstructure, mine once refurbished is a superb model just a word of warning, depending how it was stored, my hull had numerous cracks in the planking, leaked like a sieve. Send me a PM and i will email all the photos and instructions to you. There were 2 versions the instructions cover the moulded hull but the rest is virtually the same. Also 3 tugs were built 2 for the French navy, will include these as well. Mark
It was worth venturing down to the Boot Sale this morning as I found this Amsterdam Tug with fittings for £20. It is an Artesania Latina model and needs considerable restoration. If anyone has plans or build instructions which might help, I would be happy to purchase them.
Just to update on the Technobots sound units. Alan Bond the original designer was selling under his Forge Electronics outlet. He has now, just passed on the future sales to www.scalewarship.com run by John Wills. John is in the process of adding the units to his on line shop and hopes to be able to supply in the near future. The units are very good and reliable and can produce very realistic sounds in line with motor speed. A separate 20 watt amp and 8" speaker on a baffle board works well for me in my Tugs.
I have the following in my steam tug 'Alte Liebe' and I purchased it from Technobots originally but it is now sold by its original designer who now manufacture its under the name of Forge Electronics. http://forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php/boats/combo-mk3 You can change from petrol, diesel or steam and change each type according to how many cylinders you want to use. Simple programming via a plug and unit sound is proportional to speed and has an idle mode in the static position whereby the piston stops in steam or if using petrol/diesel the 'engine' shuts down then as soon as it receives a throttle input the 'engine' cranks over. I think it is a great unit.
Doug Whilst I agree the sound systems you have found are excellent, am I right in thinking they are designed for the model truck market? I am sure they can be modified. There are circuits in Practical Electronics and I am just waiting for someone else to produce a working design smaller than a large mobile phone. The best steam sound unit I found for my tugs of the IMARA era came from Technobots, coupled to a 20Watt amp and 8" speaker. Sadly they no longer supply the sound unit, but there are other suppliers. If I recall one of our members was involved and I suggest you visit http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php. If you are using two ESCs you really need two units but one amp and speaker would be OK You did suggest similar using pre-amp mixer, which would allow mixing of other sounds. On my lake you can hear this system from the middle of the lake 50 yds+ so I have an on/off switch if it causes nuisance!?!
AFTER RECEIVING LONG-AWAITED GLOBALLY SOURCED COMPONENTS, I DID A PRELIM DRIVELINE INSTALL/DRY FIT ON THE USCG 140'ER. 4MM SHAFT/BOX & RABOESCH 5-BLADE SKEWED WHEEL ARE FROM CORNWALL BOATS (UK), THE MOUNT AND U-JOINT COUPLER ARE BBQ ROUTISSERIE COMPONENTS. BTW-THERE'S A 3/16" ID CYLINDRICAL CENTER SUPPORT BEARING BETWEEN THE COUPLERS. THEY ARE NORMALLY USED ON "FIDGIT SPINNERS"
Hi Roy, Happy New Year 😉 Twin screw rotation is case of 'Horses for courses'! It's a Black Art and much depends on the hull shape, especially at the stern and the orientation of the rudders to the shaft lines. What you write is correct for slow, short fat displacement hulls, like tugs and rig supply ships etc needing good slow speed manoeuvrability. Especially those with one rudder per shaft. For long thin hulls (naval ships) and deep V and planing hulls (Fast launches and power boats etc) inboard turning screws are preferred to concentrate the thrust behind the centreline of the hull instead of dissipating it out into the open water. It also concentrates the thrust onto the rudder when only one rudder is fitted on the centreline. Outboard turning screws tend to push the stern up and bow down. Inboard turning tends to suck the stern down and raise the bow. So making planing easier. You only made one mistake in your description: "when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise". The props turn in opposite directions when both are running ahead, or both astern. When turning, one ahead and one astern they then both turn the same way thus producing the combined side thrust. I was advised to use inboard turning props on my H class destroyer (twin screws single rudder) by an ex RN Captain I met at the local lake here in Munich about 30 years ago! @ Chris: What type of boat / ship are you building? Cheers Doug 😎