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Colin, an IPad works well too. Nicely done tugs! What size is the little one? Are there figures on those too? Possibly some H.O. Scale figures might work or another train scale. I used 1/72 figures on my tug.
I make my own prop shafts. If you do use steel bar you will need to service the shaft frequently as it will rust inside the proptube. The real problem is the rust may damage the bearing when you remove it to clean. If I can I use 316 marine grade stainless as it is more resistant to rust in salt environments. 303 grade will work but in my experience shows signs of rust over time, especially if your water is saline. I have used phosphor bronze but you do need to check the specs as suggested above. Some can be exceptionally hard and may cause wear to the shaft. Acetyl is very good but it comes in two variants and I have found Delrin to be more resilient and just as easy to machine. You can read details of the two types at https://www.directplastics.co.uk/about_plastics/why-choose-a... We actually used a type of white Nylon on our six club model tugs which have been running since 2007 at shows where we give the public a chance to have a go. Some of the motors have required replacing but the bearings are as good today as when first installed.
Hi all I've not been as active as i should be as my pc is in the attic, so I've managed to borrow an old laptop for a few days so will try to catch up. As the app on my phone won't let me upload pictures. Here's some pic's of my two Tugs. Got to go wifes calling.
Hi Donnieboy, Sure is a great kit! It's not the fiberglass one like they had years ago. But I don't mind the ABS plastic. I find it easier to work with! I also built the Jersey City! guess you can say I collect 1:32 scale tugs. I built the San Pedro which is also 1:32 scale. Lots of fun to be had......
Event open to all to show off and sail their models of work boats. Tugs, Tankers, Coasters, Ferry's, Lifeboats, Cruise Ships etc. Tea Coffee and refreshments available. Disabled Access. 10am till 1800hrs. For more info contact Rob 07714517445
Brooklyn Tug is 1:32 Scale. She's 39.1/2" L.O.A. x 9.5" Beam. Weight Estimated at 24lbs when completed! The Brooklyn was built in 1910 and owned by the New York Dock Co. She was steam powered all her life and was never converted over to Diesel. The Brooklyn was one of many railroad tugs designed to transfer railroad cars from one side of New York to the other on barges!
Westbourne is a Port of London Authority steam Tug from the Caldercraft Mini-Fleet Range - it is 1:48 scale. This model was discontinued a few years ago but I did manage to purchase a brand new boxed one via ebay a couple of years ago. During her time Westbourne was hired by the Royal Navy as a rescue tug. She saw service with them between October 1916 and July 1919 in the HM Dockyard. Prior to that she was on general towing service duties on the Thames. She can be found mentioned in “SHIPS OF THE ROYAL NAVY, 1914-1919 - by TYPE & CLASS Section 3. SUPPORT and HARBOUR VESSELS” Following the first world war ‘Westbourne’ was one of three tugs attached to the Port of London Authority (PLA) Dredging Service, they were the "Westbourne", "Thorney" and "Brent", they were all fitted with a drag and under running gear.In 1940 during the Battle of Britain. ‘Westbourne’ and many other tugs were used in assisting the berthing of these large ships that entered the Thames. The photos show from box to construction plus her on the water.
Hi Colin Looks a bit like the Graupner Pollux tugs, I had a similar vintage tug from the early 1960s called Libeccio, was free running, Mighty Midget and fixed adjustable rudder. Converted to rc and used to push my Mercantic coaster around as they were similar scales. The hull eventually disintegrated (early extruded plastic) but my friend Bill managed to make a mould and cast in resin. In fact we use the hull with different designs for children to sail at shows. I usually have one in stock as they make a good starter model for new members. 300 size motors with a 10 amp ESC and 6v Nimh work fine. Hope you mange to get yours going.
HI Allen, You have the early Amsterdam, like mine, plank on frame and the windows etc are stuck on the superstructure, mine once refurbished is a superb model just a word of warning, depending how it was stored, my hull had numerous cracks in the planking, leaked like a sieve. Send me a PM and i will email all the photos and instructions to you. There were 2 versions the instructions cover the moulded hull but the rest is virtually the same. Also 3 tugs were built 2 for the French navy, will include these as well. Mark
Just to update on the Technobots sound units. Alan Bond the original designer was selling under his Forge Electronics outlet. He has now, just passed on the future sales to www.scalewarship.com run by John Wills. John is in the process of adding the units to his on line shop and hopes to be able to supply in the near future. The units are very good and reliable and can produce very realistic sounds in line with motor speed. A separate 20 watt amp and 8" speaker on a baffle board works well for me in my Tugs.
Doug Whilst I agree the sound systems you have found are excellent, am I right in thinking they are designed for the model truck market? I am sure they can be modified. There are circuits in Practical Electronics and I am just waiting for someone else to produce a working design smaller than a large mobile phone. The best steam sound unit I found for my tugs of the IMARA era came from Technobots, coupled to a 20Watt amp and 8" speaker. Sadly they no longer supply the sound unit, but there are other suppliers. If I recall one of our members was involved and I suggest you visit http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php. If you are using two ESCs you really need two units but one amp and speaker would be OK You did suggest similar using pre-amp mixer, which would allow mixing of other sounds. On my lake you can hear this system from the middle of the lake 50 yds+ so I have an on/off switch if it causes nuisance!?!
Hi Roy, Happy New Year 😉 Twin screw rotation is case of 'Horses for courses'! It's a Black Art and much depends on the hull shape, especially at the stern and the orientation of the rudders to the shaft lines. What you write is correct for slow, short fat displacement hulls, like tugs and rig supply ships etc needing good slow speed manoeuvrability. Especially those with one rudder per shaft. For long thin hulls (naval ships) and deep V and planing hulls (Fast launches and power boats etc) inboard turning screws are preferred to concentrate the thrust behind the centreline of the hull instead of dissipating it out into the open water. It also concentrates the thrust onto the rudder when only one rudder is fitted on the centreline. Outboard turning screws tend to push the stern up and bow down. Inboard turning tends to suck the stern down and raise the bow. So making planing easier. You only made one mistake in your description: "when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise". The props turn in opposite directions when both are running ahead, or both astern. When turning, one ahead and one astern they then both turn the same way thus producing the combined side thrust. I was advised to use inboard turning props on my H class destroyer (twin screws single rudder) by an ex RN Captain I met at the local lake here in Munich about 30 years ago! @ Chris: What type of boat / ship are you building? Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug, the building board I was thinking of needs to be usable for all types of boats from tugs to fast patrol boats in varying sizes, but also usable for repairs and renovation work. I saw something in my old job that would have been perfect, it was a 6' by 18" cast iron machine bed with t slots at 3" centres lengthwise. It was used for jigging the prototypes I had to build. But where would I get something like it, I tried to make one from 25mm MDF but the t slots kept breaking away. Any ideas. Cheers Colin.
Hi All, I am Bryan a sailor with the Chichester Model boat group. The site wouldn't let me use Bryan so I had to add the pirate to register on the site. Look in my harbour for the explanation of the pirate bit. My Boats are mostly sail powered but I do have a torpedo boat and two tugs and a few projects including steam powered boats. I do like the site and have found the advice given very helpful.