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Thanks for the in-depth answer Doug, much appreciated! The component was incorrectly labelled - my fault.. it’s a Voltage Booster! Pic attached... to clarify, it’s really the bow thruster (a very small one at that!) I’d like running a bit faster, you’re right about tugs not being sprinters! Regards, Eric
A somewhat confused question if I may say so Eric!😲 You can't 'regulate up' only down. The regulator's job is to produce a constant lower voltage from a range of higher voltages. I often use one to produce 5V for the RX and servos from a 12V SLA drive battery. A little 3 legged device (type LM7805) which looks just like the power FETs in a high current ESC. My version of a UBEC! 😉 What is this 'regulator' you have? Type number? Manufacturer? Photo? To get 12V from 7.2V you would need to use a Voltage converter (also known as an inverter). This works by converting the DC input from the battery to an AC voltage which can then be increased using a transformer. More elegant (and expensive!) versions use a transistor oscillator and amplifier. This uses hi-power transistors instead of the transformer. The AC output of the transformer (or amplifier) is then rectified back to DC. All this is very inefficient which is why it is normally only used for very light currents, where the losses are not so significant, and when there is no other alternative, not often the case! You can't beat the physics and you will never get the same power out that you put in. This leads to a basic design question:- What is the total current consumption of the load? I.e. the motors. A simple example:- Let's say that at 7.2V the motors draw 10Amps total, i.e. 72W (or VAmps). Assuming a utopian 100% efficiency at 12V this would equate to 6A. Due to the three stages of conversion; DC to AC, transformation / amplification of AC to 12V, AC back to DC, you'll probably be lucky to get an efficiency of around 60% to 70%. Thus if you stick 720W in you'll get around 430 to 504W out. Not much of a gain is it!🤔 Your battery would be exhausted in about 2/3 the time it is now 😡 If your motors draw more than 10A the problem just gets worse. So what is it you really want to do? If you just want to up the volts to your motors stick a 12V SLA or an 11.1V LiPo (3S) in and hope that you don't cook your motors! Frankly I don't really know why you're bothering, tugs aren't sprinters! If you want more pulling power with the existing setup try experimenting with prop sizes and pitch. Will probably achieve much more than fiddlin' about with voltage converters. BTW: All this assumes that the RX has it's own separate 5V battery supply or from a BEC in the ESC. Some clarification needed from your side. Cheers, Doug 😎
It would be nice to see a list of both ponds and lakes across the country where all IC model boats are allowed to be run. I live just outside of Dartford and have about a 35 t0 40 mile run either side of where I live to be able to use my IC boats. I'm now retired and cannot afford to change all my boats to brushless motors. Sadly I'm not into slow running tugs and the like. I'm into MTB's and RAF Crash Tenders mainly or fast running speed boats.
Hi Dick, I have a few tugs and the largest at 49" uses a geared 540 running from a 12v 7ah sla battery giving a good 90mins running time. This model weighs in at 15 kilos ready to sail. I also have a caldercraft model tug Joffre. Which is about 30" long and runs using a 6v monoperm motor and gearbox. 6v 4.5ah sla battery giving about 1 hour run time. Weight is 5kilos ready to sail. Hope this helps. Cheers Colin.
Dick, as far as I know model boat/car style ESCs have a reverse function. I would think a geared 540 motor would be quite sufficient. People tend to overpower most model boats, especially those not required to take off like ducks on acid! Like tugs. Cheers, Martin
Hi Pete, Welcome back👍 Yes, I did remove the moulded rungs. No chance of cramming the wiring in if you don't. I just twisted them out with a small pair of pliers and machined the rest out with a 3mm milling bit in my mini drill. I had hoped you would come to the 'cluttered' conclusion about the mast! Don't know of any standards for lamp spacing, never thought about. Spect there is, maybe Ed (figtree) knows, but he's having internet problems at the moment 🤔 Thanks re antenna cables. Not difficult with a couple of chunks of copper wire and the pin-drill. Some time I will also add the two small booms carrying a GPS antenna and an anemometer. Re anchors: all tugs I've ever seen have anchors. This is on my list of 'Missing details on the model'. It's quite a long list🤔 Pics attached showing the anchor in a recess on the stbd bow. BECC still exist but only seem to sell through agents/stockists now. Here the US/Canada stockists;- http://www.becc.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d47.html This probably your best bet http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/ Some of the others have disappeared😲 Look forward to your winch sketch, cos I wanna build one too! Cheers, Doug 😎
It won't die in our family, there are now 4 generations of us ranging from a spritely 94yr old down to the 4yr old who has been learning about manoeuvring since his 3rd birthday. He can control my tugs nearly as well as me. Cheers Colin.
I have the same hull I made it as Ten Cents the cartoon character from the children's programme Tugs a friend gave me a hand to make the prop on his lathe was going to power it with a car radiator motor but lent it to a friend to try in his boat and never saw it again and use a car battery for power as well as ballast I now have spine problems so can't see it getting on the water any time soon
All of this over props! I'm glad I use scaled brass props. For my Tugs! I don't need sharp edges for them! If you know there's a possible danger in sharping the prop. You do so at your own risk! Stay away from beryllium props.... Cheers, Ed
I jave the general arrangement plan of the Bustler class tug, but I do not have the lines plan. I am aware that these can be purchaed togther for about £14. I am not aware of how good they are, the GA that I have is original supplied from the builders archive many years ago. I have dealt with the Universit of Glasgow previously for plans, they hold the vast majority from the Scottish Shipyards and the North East, but I found they are quite expensive even for digital copies. If you search the Model Boats plans and then tugs, they are listed there. Otherwise try the Uni of Glasgow, they are extremely helpful but expensive. I would copy my GA plan for you if I had the facilities, my nearest big copier machine is a couple of hours away. Best wishes
Hi all, a coffee break question for you all. You will know me if you know me at all as a lover of the woodie, the mahogany hotrod, the classic speedboat. And I wonder why they are so very rarely modelled. There are plenty of plans for them and a few kits which can be made straight or converted into others. They are well documented on the 'net. There are some wonderful books about them (most of which I have!). Yet where are they all? Surely they are more fun to fling round a pond than some old tanker/coaster. I realise tugs can be made to erm...tug, if the rest of the equipment is available, but it rarely seems to be. Does the glamour of a highly varnished wooden or painted finish with chrome fittings not appeal? Does the average smallness of the classic speedboat not make for easy transport? Not a criticism, just a ponder, but some response would be appreciated. Cheers, Martin
Great, thanks, Doug. I can't open those pdfs, though. Not something I usually have problems with. But the pics. will be handy. Due to the extreme heat changing to rain, I'm still in the workshop, so am getting on with the Spitfire kneeler hydro. It's built to 152VO rules, but I shall never race it as these guys don't come to England. Alas, they are mainly in the bits of Germany I started working in back in 1997 and who can blame them for not coming to Britain, land of tugs and tankers! Can we get at those pdfs? Martin