Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
November 2017: 12 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 22 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (13)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > tugs

tugs
tugs
Ayton Cross by Albundi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 42"/20000g Ayton Cross Twin Propellors (4 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive to a T24 24volts X 2 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) Batteries - Comments: Mobile Marine Model Scale = 1:32 ( the same as all MMM tugs ) OAL - 42" (1060mm) over fendering.... ( moulded length 1035mm ) Beam - 14 3/8" (365mm).......... ( moulded beam 360mm )

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Neil, It's the 'thin' that cuts!😡 You're supposed to use the 'rope' supplied with the boat dampen and twist the end to get it through the holes in the tyres. Then loop de loop 😉 BTW: the tyres seem to me to have an amazing amount of tread left. Most tugs I've seen they are almost bald! Think I'll have to design a Dremel powered Tread Wear Machine 😉

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Radiosailor I was not familiar with the model so have just searched. The Tug forum http://modeltugforum.com/ has an article by a member who did some mods. If you register you can see the pics and ask for advice. Regarding fixed or steerable nozzles they both work better than a standard prop. For maximum effect the steerable works best and this will certainly be the case with a single prop. I have had both types on tugs but mine were twin screw and I could turn both on the spot with independent motor control. From the motors you have I suspect the Xdrive 555 may have the best torque which as Doug said is best for Tugs. There are several suppliers but without knowing any measurements it's difficult to point you to a specific site. It should make into a nice model and will certainly look the part on the water. If you look on Model Slipiway's web site http://www.modelslipway.com/ they have a kit Al Khubar and AZIZ which are twin Kort. There are links to build blogs for the AZIZ which may be useful. Model Boats and MMI also had featured articles on builds for Al Khubar.

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, I can't profess to be a Tug expert but I believe the general rule is 'Low revs & Hi Torque'. I hope one of the tug fans here will pick up this thread. Also this forum might be useful to you; a discussion on kort nozzles & tugs 'Fixed or steerable'. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1536288-Steer... Good luck, let us know how it goes. Cheers Doug 😎

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Not much room. I suggest you investigate light weight battery possibilities, but whatever you choose on no account consider charging in the hull, ever! The motors are probably lowish current but the smoker will be a big drain on the battery, do you really want this feature? Modern tugs in our environmentally friendly times do not normally emit smoke. The electronics are where you have identified. When you receive the exciters I suspect there is only one spot where the gap between supports is wide enough. For this to work the whole hull acts as the resonator and I am not sure what effect all those supports may have. When I was testing I just placed the exciters against the inside of my hull and tried different positions. You could try using the outside of your hull to see how it sounds. As regards depth you have not shown the marked waterline.... if you are referring to yourself I detect a willingness to 'boldly go'' so no. Perhaps best to hold back from Warp speed for now though!

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi AllenA, LOL! I think you're referring to my post "Local Boatshow" in the Boat Harbour section. Doesn't matter. Happy to read that I'm perfectly fine! I'm just new here and have no idea how active this forum is. I happened to stumble over this forum while searching RC boat photo's on the web, and thought: Well why not drop a question here. (not knowing at that time that I would spend half the afternoon posting pics of my own fleet...and I haven't even finished yet...) Back on topic: I'm curious to see what advise I get over here regarding the Fairplay V. I might even keep up a build blog over here. I like the classic - almost yacht like - sheerline and superstructure. And this model is compared to the Banckert, Bugsier, Kalle or Torben tugs slightly wider and heavier; which will give this tug just a bit bigger wavepattern...

What paint type by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Scotty, motor wise i would say a 600 size with gearbox to bring the revs down and the torque up, old style tugs had large props, so i would think 60-70mm if that fits into the hull. MFA do belt drives and the motor etc, Mark

GLASS FIBRE by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Heard from one source that if glass-fibre is heated it can be shaped or worked. Have also heard that if it is left in the sun this again softens it and makes it easier to shape. Have never tried either technique and am loath to risk a glass-fibre hull as a test specimen. Can anybody corroborate either of these stories or suggest a way it can be shaped? Have always assumed it was virtually rigid and, apart from gentle tugs into place, that was as far as it could be manipulated. Appreciate any thoughts. If it can be heated, about how much is enough and not too much?

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi there NP. Where do you want to start, I have converted several Richardson / Southampton, tugs. The first thing is do you want independant motor control, not found that i made a deal of difference, I now fit 1 ESC for both motors. Sound, when sailing you can't hear it, you can't hear most sound systems more than a few yards out, can be fixed but heavy so be careful, Smoke, in reality, smoke shows that the engines or injectors need servicing, on the model, try a computer cooling fan, the small ones to blow the smoke up the funnels. Better radio system, YES, which one your choice, but by a 6 or more channel system. Battery, a 7.2v buggy type NmHi pack will fit under the stern hatch, (just) or in place of the smaller battery under the front hatch, weight is not a problem, just get the balance right. I have altered the control cabin on 2 of my models, moved forward to the edge of the lower cabin, removing the steps down to the deck, also repositioning the funnels into different locations, ! model further back and the other the funnels were cut down and fitted to the top of the air intake casings, with a firefighting gantry across the top of them. In short, TX / RX upgrade, ESC, single or twin, 3300mah Battery last for hours, anything else, up to you. Hope this gives you some ideas. PS when cutting the wiring keep the motor wires as long as possible, i cheated and fitted the battery leads with a Mini Tamiya / Standard Tamiya converter Regards Mark

J R MORE by RoyLorentz Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 30" J R MORE Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 45mm) Geared to a 2XDECAPERMS (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 2X ELECTRONISE ESC - Comments: 1:48 SCALE Model of a Steam powered oil burning harbour tug built for South African Railways & Harbours in Scotland in 1960.Last of steam powered tugs built by Fergusons for South Africa.Decommisioned in 1982 and now on permanent display at the Maritime Museum in Durban,South Africa.

WOLRAAD WOLTEMADE by RoyLorentz Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 48" WOLRAAD WOLTEMADE Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 80mm) Geared to a DECAPERM (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ELECTRONISE ESC - Comments: 1:67 Model of a Salvage Tug built for SAFMARINE in Leith,Scotland in 1975.Sister ship to the JOHN ROSS also built in 1975 in South Africa.At the time of commisioning were the 2 most powerful tugs in the world (23,000 IHP)Bollard Pull 205 ton.Wolraad Woltemade scrapped prematurely in 2010.

Al Khubar 2 by Welshsailor Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 28"/10000g Al Khubar 2 Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Geared to a Torpedo 500 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: This is a Model Slipway kit of a series of 3 tugs built in 1976. In 1977 she struck a submerged object and sank but was subsequently salvaged. Last known Lloyds record was in 2002 being operated by Grandi Lavori – Fincosit S.p.a. Genova. Al Khubar 1 was destroyed in 1990 in the Iraq/Kuwait conflict. Al Khubar 3 is still operating, having been convered to tug/dredger working under the name of Flat Holm.

1:50 figures by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Liam, I just noticed your thread about 1:50 scale figures! I use these guys on my tugs! mine are 1:32. Maybe you can repaint to what your needs are. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner_crew.h...

What motor have I got? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Not Quite Doug but I have a box full of motors from various sources. Mostly use Brushless nowadays as I suspect many do, but there is nothing wrong with the brushed motors and I do have many boats that run flawlessly on brushed, and in my opinion are more controllable, certainly for scale models. I once worked for a firm that stripped old computers and acquired several beautiful 24v brushed motors some with precision gearboxes. Average current draw is less than 100 Mamps. Needless to say they are German made but I have some earlier US made motors again from mainframe computers that run from 1.5 v to 24v. The tork is so great that at 12v you can't stall the motor with your fingers, but you will burn them! We used them in model tugs with 2" props. Happy days Dave

Success by Trillium Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Maybe you can answer a question about these tugs for me. The plan I have shows large washports in the bulwarks. On all the pictures I have seen it is very difficult to make them out. So my question is, where these tugs built without them, or did they have hinged covers which were tight fitting, or some other arrangement? Too late to make changes to my model, so this is simply out of curiosity.