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>> Home > Tags > turnigy

turnigy
turnigy
Turnigy 9x by Escrich Seaman   Posted: 23 days ago
I’m using my 9x too and I never need to rebind anything

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi SiFi70. Here's the motor I'm using: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ style='background-color:yellow;'>turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-3548-840kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=1&___store=en_us I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog. Robbob.

internet sales by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Bom dia Wingcoax, If I want something pronto I go online to Conrad or Krick here in Germany and usually get the 'stuff' in one or two days. If I order from Turnigy/Hobbyking I make sure the stuff comes from the EU warehouse. Then it's usually here within the week. Most of the stuff has reasonably understandable instructions, or I can find it on the web. Learned that the hard way with a delivery from China that took several weeks and and then cost me a small fortune in German customs duty 😡 Model shops around Munich are basically model railway, aircraft or toys🤔 Such is life today! Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dodgy, believe I did mention that about 8 days ago. I discovered the same thing with my Turnigy ESCs. You have to change the operating mode to For/Rev instead of For/Brake/Rev, as described in the instruction leaflet I posted above. Cheers, Doug 😎

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

aeronaut classic by Sifi70 Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug, Thanks for the links, just watch your YouTube clips and she runs lovely. I’ve seen that a lot of people have used those Turnigy motors so I might try one of them on my next build. I’ll read the blog over the next few days. What did you think if the kit as a whole to build, only asking as me and my sister have just purchased the Fire Crash Tender for our Father for Chrimbo. Thanks for all your tips, it’s much appreciated. I might try and get some clips of the classic over Gorleston pond today if the weather permits lol. Cheers 😉

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Simon, I used the lacquer on the blue and white as well. It 'flattened' the paint and made it real hard and smooth 😊 The whole time consuming but satisfying process is described in incredibly boring 😉 detail in my blog- 'Jessica - Sea Scout restoration' (or was it renovation ??😲 Go easy with the lacquer on top of the varnish, not too heavy in one coat, or it may cause hairline surface cracks as it dries due to surface tension. 😡 Motor is a Propdrive 2832, 1000kV driving a 35mm 3 blade brass prop from Raboesch. Running on a 3S Lipo using a Quicrun 30A ESC and Turnigy iA6 RX. Pic attached of 'Engine Room'. Link attached to videos of the sea trials in May this year, Ostpark Lake and Biergarten, Munich. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw She's 24" LoA with an all up weight of about 1.5kg. BTW: the lacquer is also supposed to be UV resistant! 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Here the link to my Sea Scout Build Blog https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209

aeronaut classic by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Sandgrounder There are a number of speed 400's with voltage range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts. The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm. So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm. ESC 45Amp. Prop 30-32mm 2 blade. If it's tight of battery space Hobbyking have small ones you can parallel together like the Turnigy 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm). Regards Canabus

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Rowen, You don't need capacitors at all, and certainly not in series with the wiring. Whereas I can heartily endorse all that jbkiwi says about the possibilities of modern TXs, I've only scratched the surface of what my Spectrum and Turnigy sets can do, I can see no justification for the extra capacitors on ESC leads. The length of the wires inside a typical model can not have a significant effect on the total resistance. Given a typical resistance of 1m of copper wire with ca 1mm² cross sectional area of 0.02Ω (less for larger gauges) it ain't gonna make a happorth of difference whether you have 4" (10cm) or 40". Maybe a little more warmth but the capacitor can't change that. I also can't see where the spikes he mentions should come from. Also bear in mind that the ESC does not apply pure DC to the motor but a pulse train with a pulse repetition rate of around 8 to 10kHz. That's why the motors whistle and scream. Adding capacitors to this could distort the pulses or reduce their peak value. If the ESC is so bad that it produces big spikes when the pulses are switched on or off (which I doubt theses days) then junk it and buy a decent one. On no account fit a capacitor in series with the wiring, unless it is a special Coaxial Capacitor, which are very big and relatively expensive. See pic. I've only seen them on large electric motors on board ships where the much higher currents and longer cable runs involved than in models may play a role. A very small value capacitor, in the picofarad range might help to short out any potential high frequency RF interference but I've never experienced the need to fit them. In this respect it could be more important that the length of the cable is not close to the wavelengths typically used by RC sets (12.5cm at 2.4GHz) so that it does not act like an antenna. Cheers, Doug 😎 jbkiwi have looked at the link you posted but I'm not convinced considering the small lengths we use in our boats. Yes there will be some overshoot spikes in the pulse train but so severe as to damage anything is in my opinion highly unlikely, given a decent quality ESC in the first place. Something else on that link just occurred to me. There is a pic of what looks like electrolytic (polarised) capacitors between the wires. This is fine for aircraft ESCs which only run forwards, and thus produce positive going pulses. In our boats with reverse the pulse will switch over to negative going. Which after a while could have an explosive effect on the electrolytics. It blows the cans off and produces an interesting snowstorm effect. Good party trick😁 but maybe not so super inside a model boat😡 IF you do fit them to a reversible ESC be sure to use tantalum capacitors which aren't so fussy.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Following this with some interest as I am about to convert my Arun lifeboat to a brushless set up using Turnigy Aerodrive motors and marine esc. Hoping to keep the two lead acid batteries for power as they make good ballast!

RC....mixers? And other unknowns.. by BW3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks a that's a great response. and probably says dump it and buy a new one, its for my 5yr old grandson and I saw this on Hobbyking, what do you think for a first beginners set? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ style='background-color:yellow;'>turnigy-5x-5ch-mini-transmitter-and-receiver-mode-2.html @ £18.97

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by vortex Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Steve im not sure now regarding motors as they have water cooling cans on but Surfury runs from memory a 1075kva motor Turnigy 160 A speedo watercooled on 2x2s 5200 lipo`s in series ie 14.4volts with 52mm mocom Alum prop approx 3hp. I think the Tornado has approx 2045kva motor same speedo + lipo`s x 50mm nylon prop both do scale speed to as fast as 40/61 IC and look great on our choppy water with just prop and rudder in the water. Both motors will take 6s if you like ballistic? All gear from Hobby king. Try the IC first, post some pics please

PT 109 upgrade? by camyaj Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
My 1/24th Schnellboot 5' was running on 3x850 mfa motors changed to 1 x Turnigy 3648 1450kv outrunner operating on a 3s lipo. . more than enough speed even with the outer props just freewheeling

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Martin, Welcome to the world of 'working' models😉 It also cost me a small fortune when I started to get into brushless and LiPo stuff last year after retiring. That Simprop ESC should be fine for your Supermarine (if you ever find it 😁) See what you mean about the prices for bigger NiMhs 🤔 OK, 'Go LiPo young man', BUT remember what I wrote above; Watch 'em! Any other printing on that 2012 motor? Maker? kV rating? A pic might help. What do you mean by 'a couple of LiPos'? 2S? Re Brushless ESCs; have a look at the Turnigy range at HobbyKing, or Quicrun at HobbyWing. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/power-systems/speed-controllers/... https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/quicrun-brushles... You can probably find a UK shop for these; Google them! I use the 30A Quicrun version in my Sea Scout works fine with my Propdrive 2830 1000kV motor and a 3S LiPo. See pic. Cheers, Doug 😎