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>> Home > Tags > turnigy

turnigy
turnigy
Mk2 RTTL 2771 by colindavies Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Upgraded to Brushless 2x1100kva Turnigy motors, Scratch built 1/24 scale. I've included a photo of a real one, just in case somebody else tells me the colour scheme is wrong, East of Gibralta they where white. I'm sitting on the engine hatch nearest the camera, that was 1969

What transmitter , receiver by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi I have both the Turnigy and Flysky 6 channel ones. The same, great units and you can upgrade the switches and control knobs to a number of different colours if you wish. Check out Banggood. Canabus

What transmitter , receiver by ukengineman Petty Officer   Posted: 12 days ago
Flysky i-6 is amazing value for money for a 6 channel computer radio. Hobbyking sell the same set with their Turnigy brand as the TGY i-6. You can buy the TGY i-6 from Hobbyking in the UK for around £45:- https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ style='background-color:yellow;'>turnigy-tgy-i6-afhds-transmitter-and-6ch-receiver-mode-2.html

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi FV, The switch used for binding on the DX5e is the Trainer switch! Not AUX. Martin has reported extensively on the use of the Trainer switch! Orange RXs are not just "cheap copies" of Spektrum. In my experience they not only 'understand' Spektrum DSM2 but also AFHDS from Turnigy / FlySky etc etc. Thus not 'cheap copies' but inexpensive, intelligent and versatile alternatives. So far I have not had one that doesn't work with either my Turnigy i6 or my Spektrum DX6. Greetings, Doug

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Wow! a real 'DX Maniac' 😉😁 My DX6 is quite chatty too, nice seductive voice though 😁 Haven't tried it with the Orange RX yet, but it's DSM2 so it should work. It bound to my Turnigy i6 (re-branded as REELY here in Germany by Conrad) no problem at all. Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Sorry Capn, but 'uppermost still doesn't have any meaning 😲 Left, centre, right does! = Signal, Positive, Negative. I also have some AR610s, see attached pic. Printing shows clearly (if tiny🤔) ∏ ,+,- at the bottom of the printed label. The bottom socket (as in my pic) is the Bind/Dat (Data) socket where the binding plug should go. The battery in any other socket. The red wire from the battery should ALWAYS be on the MIDDLE pin, whether uppermost, downermost, on it's side or 'avin a kip in my Aunt Fanny's garden😉😁 The FlySky / Turnigy RXs use the same convention. They indicate the Signal pin with an S !! Surprise😉 I also have an Orange RX (with stabiliser for my PBY Catalina). It follows the same convention, see pic 2. The S for signal is moulded into the case at the bottom of the LH column of pins. Bottom socket is marked Batt/Bind for the Bind plug. Would help speed things up if you posted a pic or two of what you have, and how you are connecting up! Final thought! Are you switching on RX and TX in the right order? RX first AFTER inserting the Bind plug, TX second AFTER holding the Trainer switch ON. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: just stripped out my PTB, incl shafts, tubes and rudder stocks, all I got left is wood an' glue 😲

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Your not having much luck Martin , I've never used the orange rx's so can't help you with that I've always used the turnigy 9x and for the money it's been a great radio that's never let me down. I'm sure you will figure it all out and it will be something simple staring you in the face . Ron

Brushless motor selection by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi robhenry Your motor would be only running at about 9500rpm 0n 9.6 volts. The closest brushless motor would be a Hobbyking Turnigy L5055C-700kv on 4S Lipo batteries (10360 rpm), these are 50mm diameter, 6mm shaft. Note you require a separate ESC for each motor and a Y connector to link them to your throttle channel. Personally I would use the Hobbyking car 100A ESC's (HK-100A). Also both the motors and ESCs require no water cooling. Canabus

David Metcalfs Waveney - "The Scout" by Flack Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno

Newbie radio control question by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I have the 9xR Pro from Turnigy. at the price I payed for it was so good, it is very light in the hand and all the controls just full to hand also I found it very easy to bind with all my receivers. Fred

1920's Runabout by Jim Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
The motor is a Turnigy D2838/11 1000kv with a Hobbyking 30amp esc on 2/3 cell lipo.

advise required by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Just to throw a little spanner in the works teejay if your thinking of adding auxiliary's to your boats later as you progress, I use the turnigy 9x radio from hobbyking now and for the money mate I can't fault the radio and the receiver's are cheap and 10 model memory . Ron

brushless motor by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Cliff I am installing a Hobbyking Turnigy L5055-700(1600 Watts) with a 100Amp ESC and a 4S 5800mah 60C Lipo battery. Plan to start with a 2 blade 52mm CNC prop. Canabus

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Even tastier with the Frankfurters, and Colemans Mustard I trust😜😋 Steve: I found a cheap way to mechanise the two aft turrets of my H class destroyer Hotspur, using one servo with a pulley, a couple of smaller pulleys on the turrets, about 2:1 ratio to give at least 180° rotation at the turrets, and a spring loaded nylon cord around the pulleys. I'll see if I can dismantle her over the weekend to make some pics. I plan to try something similar with my 1:350 Hood, also Trumpeter and also excellent detailing. Another way is to use one micro servo per turret, connected with Y cables if you want a synchronised Broadside; A+B and X+Y turret. Then use the servo travel adjustment at the TX to maximise the rotation. You can then move all four on one channel or two channels for 'Independent Firing" fore and aft. I will use the two pots at the top of the Turnigy i6 TX for this. On Hotspur I used the left stick left/right. I plan to do this in my Graf Spee, Belfast, Hood and Bismarck. Maybe also the ack ack turrets on Ark Royal!? Will knock up some test jigs sometime 🤓 Cheers Doug 😎