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I recently tried 2 ESC(s) into one battery connection then into 2 channels of the radio. Received wisdom said that one of the red leads to the radio should be disconnected. This I tried and one ESC ceased to function. So to prevent unwanted feeding on the positive lead from one ESC to another I fitted a diode to each of the ESCs. If you were to do the same I think your setup would work. However if your TX has mixing capability then why not use that ability to mix rudder with the 2 outboard motors so you have the added steering of the 2 outer motors? Any how fit the diodes please this should prevent the ESCs damaging each other its a simple job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-1N4007-rectifier-diodes-DO41-... 20 diodes for £1 the silver band is positive so goes towards receiver plug.
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill
Hello, Doug! I’m happy to report that my eyes are finally healed & I’m ready to get cracking on my tug’s LED lighting improvement project. Needless to say it’s so fantastic to be able to see again. The infection was so bad that I had to move around the house for weeks with at least one hand on the wall or I was in danger of falling or walking into the china cabinet. I lost what’s called “stereo vision” & had no depth perception. It was a nightmare to say the least, especially considering that the source of the infection remains unknown. But I just had a checkup at the ophthalmologist‘s office & I was given the happy news that all traces of the infection are completely gone. Hallelujah!🙏🏼👁👁 BTW, did you complete your tug’s mast LED lighting project? I recall that you had finished up the mast itself & had its LEDs working. Were you able to reinstall the mast in the pilot house roof & get everything back together without any problems? At one point you had mentioned possibly making a plug & socket arrangement for the mast so that it could be removed for safer transport to the lake. Were you able to follow through with that plan or was it just is easy to simply re-install the mast? finished for your dog? If so, how did it come out? I hope all is well with you & that your many projects are all turning out successfully.
Hi, Lots of factors to take into consideration, 1 specification of motor 2 voltage to be used 3 size and weight of the boat 4 speed you wish to achieve 5 Current limitations (20A) Besides the above if it is a brushed motor and your limit is 20A I would opt for a propeller of 30mm to 35mm (low pitch). The old rule for Brushed motor is do not use a prop any bigger than the diameter of the motor. the bigger the prop/pitch the more current and a hot ESC. Act with caution, put a 15A fuse in line just in case to protect your ESC. It is difficult to give advice there are lots of unknowns.
Mornin' John (aka Sleepless in Unknown, UK, 😉) That's exactly the jig I found recently for the batch of XT connectors I bought when I finally went LiPo (better than NUTS!). Ref. your 'wall wart' (horrible expression, must have come from our 'colonial brothers. Sorry Ed!)- If the resistor burnt out I'd be very surprised if the rectifier wasn't also damaged. Check the voltage with your multimeter in both AC and DC ranges and let me know the results. Also give me the data of the 'wart'. Input voltage, W or VA rating, output voltage and current. Should all be embossed on the thing somewhere. Cheers, Doug 😎
I do remember that there was a number of variations of this type of tug that used the same hull but with slight changes on deck but I can't think of there names at the moment, they were all called flying ..... It will come to me when I stop thinking about it 🤔
Looks like it could be a Thames Steam Tug, I'm not sure ! I have just acquired this lovely hull and I am not sure of it's build or origin. It is fibreglass and is 57" (1450mm) LOA X 14.5" (370mm) Beam. It has a very basically built superstructure which I don't think is appropriate. I would be very grateful if anyone has any idea what she is and any other information as to weather it was a kit that has been modified. I would love more information as to scale etc. Regards your shipmate. Ballast AKA Alan.
Hi Ron, Thanks for your comments. The small Tug (EMANUEL) is 16" long, scale unknown. No crew as yet, but will try some of my model railway figures. The larger Tug (VALIANT) is 48" and is 1/32nd scale. But using 1/35th scale crew. As for your Gipsy yacht. I'd love a copy of your plans, could it be possible to copy and email. If yes I'll pm you my email address, it's quite possible I have a suitable part built hull that was donated to me at a show last year. Cheers Colin.👍