[Score: 10/10] 26"/900g yacht Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: totally scratch built from online plans, hull and frames 3mm hard balsa overed in the bosses tights, 4 coats of sand and seal, followed by 8 coats of yacht varnish, this has produced a rigid and very light hull. 3mm ply keel and home made 600gramm bulb, home made mast, mylar 45 micron sails goose neck and rudder.
Hi Canabus, I had exactly the same problem with veneer lifting. Worked my bum off to get it all right, was happy. Then silly me thought it was a good idea to dry the glue in the stinking hot Australian sun. When I checked later in the day, the veneer had lifted and worse, warped. I managed to repair the whole thing but it came at a cost, I could no longer varnish my deck layer due to glue stains. On a happy note, my SGK is 95% complete and runs beautiful. Out of 10 models I have built, it's my favourite.
Taking time building this Chris Craft Riva boat from scrap plywood but fun and a lot cheaper than buying a complete kit. Have just finished the hull and giving so far four coats of varnish. It's about 31inches long so thats some boat. Howes have supplied all the fittings and I am pleased they post here to me in Spain. Next step is to find some small dials to put on the dashboard to add some Glitz!!.
Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. It's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔
Sea King now restored. Veneered the deck adding some fancy balsa work on the bow deck. Modern veneers are thin and difficult to manage. Shouldn't have varnished the white areas as so called clear varnish is not clear when painted on white. Overall, I'm pleased with her and learned a lot of lessons. Loved Glue'n Glaze for the windows. What a Godsend. Retained the original como motors added a fan cooled Chinese 320 esc and linked her to a new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz transmitter and Acoms AR-201 Rx with futaba servo. Hull painted Hammerite smooth Gold, with white Plastikote. Managed to retain the original Billings sticker and name decals.If the bath is anything to go by she should plane quite easily. Might add some ropes and fenders but enjoying her clean looks at the moment.
Thanks a lot. Plenty of info there to ponder on. All very interesting. It's amazing what this forum comes up with when someone asks a question. If I used vinyl logos do I still need to varnish over them as I would a water slide transfer? Thanks again Chris
Hi, I made the bridge to my drawing. I think it's right. I would think that Noram Ough had his basic dimensions correct. If not I might as well start over! In the pic I am attaching, there is a platform with what looks like a very large searchlight, but it is not clear enough to be sure, Seems a bit unlikely. I am giving her a 36 foot launch. I assume it would have been grey, though I am tempted to paint it black, with varnished wood cabin and mahogany foredeck. I am beginning to feel a bit stupid asking so many questions. I hope you don't feel 'oh no not him again!😡 Never had anyone to consult before. Most of the time here it's me helping others in our little club. You got around a lot of ships all over the world I think. What were you doing, or shouldn't I ask? Regards Norm
Hi Both, I just bought some transfer paper for inkjets via Amazon. Actually came from a UK supplier, couldn't find any in Germany ?🤔 20 A4 sheets for € 15.68. Good instructions how to stop them smearing, keep your fingers off until they are really really dry and set, and how to transfer and seal them. Gloss or matt varnish, or there are also proprietary transfer 'Fixers'. haven't tried 'em yet cos the sea Scout hull ain't that far yet! Will report in the Sea Scout BR blog. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Canabus Still not sure what Type of glue this is so difficult to give help on repair. I suspect the filler may have been nearer the edge at the front, (prow) allowing the varnish to get into the joint. If it has delaminated perhaps you can ease the rest off and reapply or make a new piece. Out of interest what type of glue is Tassie Tiger? Dave
Hi Canabus Thats a bummer. I can't find any mention of the glue you used to fix the outer planking in your earlier posts. I did notice you had used a ply deck but was there some plastic filler on the front part? Some glues are not good at sticking plastic. What varnish did you use? I suspect the solvent in the varnish has softened and weakened the glue. The initial coat would have done the damage with the solvent working its way into the joint over a few days as it dried. These things come to try our patience but I am sure if you give it enough thought you will find a way to repair and learn from the process. Good luck and please keep us posted with progress Dave
Hi Dave, Ta 👍 After thinking back to the fun (and pong!) of laminating my destroyer hull I came to similar conclusions 😉 Won't have to mess about with acetone either, not so easy to buy in quantity here. Little bottles of nail varnish remover are expensive 🤔 I don't need to add strength. Just want to clean up and seal the old girl prior to painting the inside with Hammerite and subsequently fitting the new brushless and electronics. Got curious after reading all that about sealing with resin! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave