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>> Home > Tags > varnish

SHERSCHEN P206 by Inkoust Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Wooden structure submarine chasers of 70 years in service with Russia and East Germany. Cover with balsa and smeared with epoxy varnish. The model is equipped with two engines of 600 pcs, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3000 mA

springer tug no 3 by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Well this is the 3rd version I have made of a springer tug. Grp Hull and this time using 2 mm plastic. Balsa wood and again what ever I could find laying around. The decking is just printed paper and stuck down with Varnish. Just needs some ballast and it is ready to go.

ELENA ROSE by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
all ready to go new paint & varnished added new leather seating windscreen made from a plastic salad bowl 45mm 3 bladed brass prop 850 brushed motor powered by a 11.1 5000 mah lipo O and new cowls from the model shop 👍

ronseal by cenbeth Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
I would have thought that any good internal varnish should be fine. Try them and see. Edward

Navigation and Deck Lighting by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mate, in small spaces, i have used gel type cyno, a small blob to secure the LED and using the LED lens/body as the "glass" works well, you have to look close to see the difference. Using a varnish is ok but it does tend to go yellowish over time Mark

Windscreen and finishing by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The windscreen can be tricky. I used the .5mm PVC with polystyrene strips cut to shape and glued to the bottom edge. Had to use a perspex solvent/cement for that as not many glues are compatible with both plastics. The mast has a pin in the base and along with the side slots holds the screen in place for glueing, first with pva and then flushed with white acrylic gap sealer. The top of the mast is secured to the screen with a small screw. The moulding on the top of the screen is an ‘H’ section moulding heathen softened for bending, with a strip of veneer laid in the top and fixed with varnish. Finally the name and Fairey symbol were printed on decal sheet and varnished in place. The first trial on the water was with an 11.4V lipo which went OK but i thought it could do with a bit more oomph, so ordered a 14.8V and that proved to be just right for a realistic scale speed, and it handles beautifully. Being single motor and rudder it doesn't have a very tight turn at slow speeds. Not too good for steering competitions! Too bad but good for just buzzing around. The figures were built up with balsa and wire covered and sculptured in Fimo. All in all I'm quite happy with the results. Definitely better than my first attempt; B/W photos.

Deck and superstructure by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Next was the deck. First I glued some light coloured veneer I had available, and after sealing it drew lines on with a fine marker, but I didn't like the result. Luckily the next day down at the Menshed they were having a cleanup and were going to throw out a roll of paper backed teak veneer! Lucky or what? So I borrowed a rotary guillotine and cut lots of 6mm strips. Also lots of black card strips 1mm wide for the caulking. Had to use a conventional guillotine for them or they were too curly. Rapid pva worked well here. I used cedar for the bow detail. Sanding sealer rubbed down to 600grit gave me the finish I wanted. Cedar again for the rubbing strips; it bends easily with a bit of heat from a heat gun. Superstructure next; the bulkhead uppers were taped in place and the sides, front and back walls glued and taped nice and snug with the coaming. When set the cockpit sides were fixed. Next came the roof. The plans show a proper double curve unlike the kit, so it has to be planked…. cedar again. A thin slot has to be left in the planking at the cockpit sides to take the windscreen, so you need to know its thickness before doing this. I used .5mm rigid PVC as I could not source acetate. The superstructure was painted next. I had some problems here as the later coats of paint were softening the glue and showing up the planking. Many coats and sanding later I thought I’d use an enamel for the white top coats. It wasn't too smooth so I sprayed it with what was supposed to be clear PU varnish, but it was horribly yellow. I gave it a fine rub down and reverted to good old humbrol and a wide soft brush. Worked out fine!

Priming the hull. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I used grey card for the caulking, I was lucky with some light coloured strip I was given, unfortunately no idea what it was, then I think I stained with clear satin or matt ronseal varnish, the final effect was nice. The battery access, and the large central access in the rear well was just painted with aluminium paint, rivet detail on the towhook reinforcement and battery access panel was with dressmaker pins 😊

What Colour? by cormorant Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
That's a thought, thanks Mark. I could strengthen it with a matt varnish perhaps? Steve

Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8" ply by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Onetenor Thank you for your advice, It is well taken. I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic. Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but, I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course. My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin. Ed

Paint types by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Don't put celly onto enamel or any other oil based paint It will wrinkle it . You can use any varnish to seal. Humbrol Marine varnish is also hot fuel proof

Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8" ply by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
There are various ways to do this but the simplest way is to use thinned dope or paint/varnish.Givin g 3 or 4 coats This thinned paint etc soaks into the timber not just sitting on top and also seeps into the nooks and crannies. Epoxy or other resins can also be used, again well thinned so it soaks in .Be fairly liberal with it and tilt and twist the hull in all directions so the paint runs into all the nooks and crannies. Good luck with it John

Paint types by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Two pack epoxy is the toughest!! It largely depends upon many factors what are you going to be doing with it. For a scale gently handled model acrylic is fine for something to be handled roughly then enamel ( or cellulose ( if you can find it)). Just remember that the surface your painting on counts cellulose onto enamel will "pickle" acrylic you can paint onto just about any finish. Seal it all with an acrylic varnish.

Pilot Boat by cormorant Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Colin Yes, I did brush paint the deck with an inexpensive acrylic. The sand mix was trial and error. I started off with a thin mix and gradually added more sand, testing it on scraps of plastic, until I was happy. A brushed coat of satin varnish waterproofed and added to the realism. Best of luck. Steve

Pilot Boat by cormorant Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Recently built from an Aeronaut kit, this is a 1/24th scale Pilot Boat based on a German design. Powered by two 540 brushed motors with 3 bladed brass props it attains something like scale speed. The colour is Volkswagen Bright Orange, courtesy of Halfords and the non-slip deck is acrylic green mixed with silver sand then covered with a silk finish varnish. The boat was filmed at an illuminated regatta staged by Bournville Model Yacht and Power Boat Club on their lake in Bournville, Birmingham %u2003