Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
January 2019: 12 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 21 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (15)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > ventilation

ventilation
delamination
donation
lindberg cc constellation
navigation
navigation light
notification updates
portland model power boat association
renovation
restoration
rotation
vibration
ventilation
Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials 😁 Robbob.

Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last ‘photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.

aeronaut classic by sandgrounder Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
i have bought a aeronaut classic kit to build over the winter , i have had to suspend other models (tugs) due to fumes and winter ventilation . it will be my first wood kit build , i would like to fit a brush-less motor in the Classic but do not know which motor i could use to replace a speed 400, can anyone recommend a brush-less motor for the classic

HMS M.33 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
"Manxman was about when I was in the RN in the sixties." Yes Nick, but by then apparently not in her original form, role or speed! Cheers, Doug 😎 "Summary of Post War Service. HMS MANXMAN was first deployed to support the repatriation of British and nationals of allied nations and carried stores and supplies from Sydney to Japan. On later trips she went to Shanghai and Hong Kong which was used as the base for the BPF in 1946 and 47. In June 1946 the ship returned to UK and was refitted at Sheerness before returning for further service with the BPF in February 1947 as relief for HM Cruiser EURYALUS. At the end of that year she was nominated for reduction to reserve status and returned to join the Reserve Fleet at Sheerness. In 1951 this ship was brought forward for operational use and following a refit joined the Mediterranean Fleet in September 1951. After two years she was again placed in Reserve and laid-up in Malta where she remained until again refitted. The after 4” mounting was removed and she re-commissioned in February 1956 for duty as Flagship of the Mediterranean Fleet Flotillas. During this service she took part in relied operations after an earthquake in the Lebanon as well as taking part in NATO and Fleet exercises in the Mediterranean. She was deployed for headquarters duties during the Suez operation later in 1956 and the next year returned to Malta to lay-up in Reserve. Refitted for further service after tow to Gibraltar in 1958 she returned to lay up Malta until 1961 when she was selected for conversion into a Support Ship for minesweepers at Chatham where she was taken in hand by HM Dockyard on 17th July that year. During this work the other two 4” mountings and two boiler rooms were removed which reduced her speed significantly. Additional accommodation and support workshops were fitted to suit her new role and work was completed during February 1963. Whilst on trials in April 1963 she visited the Isle of Man where she grounded whilst in Douglas Bay. On returned to Chatham the ship prepared for service in the Far East and re-commissioned on 23rd September that year for support of the 6th Minesweeping Squadron at Singapore. She deployed in that role until late in 1968 and arrived at Portsmouth on 12th December." "In reserve at Malta and refitting She was refitted in Chatham in the early 60's and converted to a minesweeper support vessel. When the forward boiler was removed and the compartment was fitted with diesel generators to supply outboard power to minesweepers, she was fitted with a dummy forward funnel, which housed the diesel exhausts and ventilation for the compartment. Much of the mine stowage was removed to make way for additional accommodation. Commissioning in 1963, she was subsequently stationed in Singapore. Returning to the UK in 1968, Manxman was used for engineering training at Devonport and following a fire, was transferred to the reserve at Chatham Dockyard until broken up at Newport in 1973."

Styrene Allergy? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Since Styrene itself is an oil, suspected in some countries of being carcinogenic, used in producing various polyxxx plastics, I strongly suspect the the glue is the source of the problem as you can't be coming into contact with styrene oil itself. So I repeat, good ventilation, extractor fan, thin latex surgical gloves and a face mask as one should also use when spraying. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Sell that kit and buy something friendlier!😉 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Styrene

Styrene Allergy? by Tug_Hercules Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Not necessarily allergic to Styrene, but many are allergic to CA Glue. Once a CA Glue sensitivity develops, it is difficult to overcome. Try masks; try good ventilation. Even when cutting Styrene, ensure You have good ventilation.

RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 34"/2500g RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a Bullet 30 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 24v 15A Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Ebay job £50 Old Vintage Aero kit 34in Fire boat needing a lot of attention, with delaminating plywood, old glue, old glow-plug engine mounts with electric conversion, and after removing a metal shield I discover an vintage (1970,s Ripmax Bullet 30 Motor the dogs bollocks of electric racing of its time capable of running 24v at 15A. 300W for a brushed motor. Started by revamp rear pit by lowering servo and rudder and building sub deck, storage lockers, tow hook and ladders. Remount the motor with an aluminium mount with custom screw positions. Block windows with 1mm ply. Foam front half of hull to make unsinkable. Make centre decking area. Repair and build up on cabin roofs and walls to centre deck. Rewire add ESC and servo. Remove broken and unusable fittings such as large vents, some missing unable to match again. Problems with old gloss paint crazing the modern spay paints. Build some fittings eg Water cannons, life belts, Build new battery trays, Painting the boat now in progress as of 20/04/2018 Boat has be roughly painted but is not finished, as fittings are now required, added a RC system an gave it a test run. the performance was adequate on 14.4v and great on 17.2v see latter pictures on the pond. the motor did get hot after about half hour of use. the motor is rated at 24v but I think a smaller prop will be required for that voltage. Excellent performance from a brushed motor. Added some stickers and I have now added a 12v fan and ventilation between cabins as the motor required some cooling and was in a sealed compartment.

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

3D printing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Wayne You will need ventilation holes to keep the temperature down. Hopefully this will help reduce the noise and smell! Mine isn't so bad temp wise if I don't use the heated base. It's great when it works, my advice is keep experimenting, it becomes easier the more you print. If you are using websites for help then you will know there are better software options than the basic supplied with the unit, unfortunately they come at a price. For hobby use you may decide the items you produce are OK, but for commercial use the cost may be justified. A useful first project is to make a cooling fan hood for the printhead. It helps keep the shape of long extrusions. Enjoy Dave

Motor upgrade by colindavies Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
Thanks for the info I've gone for 2x30A watercooled esc from hobbyking, the main reason was that they were £13:00 each and seemed less complicated set up than the car ones, I may be wrong, but they will be in a fairly limited space with poor ventilation. If they don't work I'll try the car ones.

The spray booth. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
After considering all the H&S aspects and conducting my own risk assessment (seriously !) and writing a method statement 😉 I am building myself a spray booth. The base for the spray booth is a steel framed folding trestle table that I already had in the workshop and is of ideal dimensions for the job. The framework for the booth is regular 25mm x 38mm softwood from my local DIY store. No elaborate joints here at all, just a few screws and plastic corner blocks and a few bracing fillets to keep the frames square and rigid. The idea is that I will be able to remove/discard the cardboard panels from the top and sides to de-construct it and pack it away until it's required again. The cardboard is just fixed to the frame with a heavy duty staple gun. An MDF panel with a suitable sized hole was made to hold the fan unit in the 'roof' and the flexible ducting routed to the workshop (garage) door (wooden) and connected to an exhaust vent mounted through the door. The fan unit is a brushless bathroom ventilator wired to a simple switch on the side of the frame, it can move more than sufficient air volume quite safely in the presence of propellants and solvents from the aerosols. I also fitted a 1metre LED strip-light to the same circuit to illuminate the interior. The finishing touch is an old shower curtain with a weighted hem that I had lying about to form the 'fourth wall'. It's suspended so that there's a 50mm air gap at the bottom for the air flow path. I bought a 3M 4521 Maintenance-Free Organic Vapour/Particulate Respirator for about £18 from Screwfix to wear whilst spraying. The mask filters are not replaceable so when I've finished all the painting it will be binned ! The mask is so exceptionally effective at filtering that I am able to stand at the booth and work INSIDE the booth with the curtain behind me to confine the vapours and dust and reduce the risk of dust etc. settling on the fresh paint. For those concerned for my health I can assure you that FOR ME this works perfectly safely and is very effective. So much so that there's no smell at all while spraying and I only get the slightest whiff of solvent smells in the workshop after removing the mask as all the nasty stuff is blasted out of the workshop from the enclosed booth. I expect some controversial opinions on this but in practice it is actually far safer than spraying paint in a confined area without any protection and ventilation at all, which is possibly what a lot of chaps (including me) have done or continue to do ! Now I can get some painting done...

34" Fireboat by PeteG Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 years ago
Hello Dave, I have actually completed all the wiring connections today and have tested and set-up the transmitter speed control and rudder orientation. All seems ok at this point. I note your comment about ventilation around the ESC - well of course It Is In an enclosed compartment mounted on a block away from hull - do you think piping an airflow from above via tubes would be practical or necessary? PeteG.

34" Fireboat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 years ago
HI Pete My ESC Is attached with velcro to the plate across the hull floor. I believe I used epoxy to fasten the floor to the hull but any water resistant glue would probably work. Make sure there Is plenty of ventilation around the ESC. Dave

Radio Install by Robert Commander   Posted: 10 years ago
I am proceeding with the hardware Install. Rather than buy a standard 6 cell pack, I built my own. The object was to get the weight towards the back of the boat and the easiest way to do this was to split the pack Into two, three cell packs. The Rx and ESC are located on the radio board and framed for a snug fit. The board Is cut away below the components to aid ventilation. Now the Install Is near complete Its looking llike the c of g Is at 36% when measured from the tip of the transom. Next steps will be to finish the sanding, apply primer (3 coats) and then drop It In the bath tub to establish a water line for final paint.

April 19th by Robert Commander   Posted: 11 years ago
This last week I have been preparing the boat for radio Installation. Due to the small size of the model, a degree of planning needs to be done to make a neat Installation. With this model the forward cabin has an open back and therefore subject to possible water Intrusion. The rear deck area also has the potential to convert to a swimming pool If subject to some enthusiatic reversing. That really only leaves the mid cabin In which to squeeze the gear Into. My goal was to make a drop In board that located the hardware. First I slotted the cabin sides back Into place to check how much room I really had for placing and removing the board Into the hull. I made a cardboard template just to confirm the clearances. First I glued four support pads In place to support the board, two to the front bulkhead, two to the back bulkhead. Then on my board I glued four location pads to the underside. These pads are a very close fit between the support pads on the bulkheads and prevent any sideways movement of the board when Its dropped onto the support pads. I then cut and fixed a battery barrier to the board. This Is to keep the battery packs In place against the rear bulkhead. The receiver and speed control locate Into their own four sided nests. The bottom of the nest has been opened up to allow for ventilation. Not really necessary for the receiver but more helpful for the speed control. I also cut a couple of slots In the bottom of the board so that you can see the skins and keel for any water accumulation In the hull. Now I have located the radio hardware the temporary equipment wiring will be re-done now I know the necessary wire lengths. However I will probably hold off on this job until much later.