I began laying the deck on April 5th. It had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. It would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. In all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. In hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. It was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a frigate and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.
With my boats getting routinely stranded in the middle of nowhere, I felt compelled to commission a rescue vessel and "Triton" was born. "Triton" is a Springer-type tug push boat. With a hull and superstructure consisting of an “Indiana” style command cabin, it was built using a pretty basic birch plywood American kit designed for swimming pool water polo. Kit altered to resemble a fictitious Salvamento Marítimo (Spanish Coast Guard) unit following Salvamento Marítimo’s actual boat markings. Equipment and deck layout inspired on actual Springer tug push boats supporting larger vessels and barges found in US and European ports and rivers. Model built during September – October 2015. Approx. 1/18 scale. Real life boat could be a 30-footer (9.14m) vessel. Equipped with 9v LED navigation lights and sound system. Powered by an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor, NiMH 7.4v battery, a 3-bladed 44mm propeller, and a 6-12V 320A RC Ship & Boat R/C Hobby Brushed Motor Speed Controller.
Decided to advance LI-PO plans and try a 4S 4000mAh pack. This weight of this pack reduced overall model weight by 8 oz, so it is now 9.6 lbs, close to the original target. Was also to slide the pack further sternwards until it touched the inner face of the RIB slipway, about 2.5” from the stern. The effect on the waterline was limited; the model now sits slightly higher with the waterline remaining level. Slowly increased the speed of the motors to assess the LI-PO performance. There was a significant improvement. There is no need to use “ full” power as it probably exceeds max scale speed. As the model accelerates the bow lifts exposing an area of the red bottom paint. The wake streams down the side of the vessel and curls off the spray rails. She looks very realistic. The attached picture is at part speed. The model is totally controllable, the influence of the centre fins is noticeable as the heeling is not pronounced unless extreme manoeuvring is tried. After 90 minutes of use decided all original objectives for the model are now accomplished. She looks and performs well. The next task is to tidy up the temporary wiring and fit the LI-PO properly. Will also have to re-route more accessories through the voltage reducer fitted for the bow thruster so the LED lights are not overpowered. Have also bought a small r/c controlled child’s jet ski toy with the intention is using the drive and control system in the RIB. It will require much mutilation of both the jet ski and the RIB to work them in together, but think it can be achieved. My next blog will tell.
Permission to come aboard Sir? The lakes you mention I have all visited over the last 30 years based here in Munich 👍 A bit risky, and very deep!, for some of my more fragile vessels 🤔 Hope you don't mind warships! Cheers Doug 😎
22.5 inches RC boat inspired on 1970s Chris-Craft Commander 36, 42 and 45 footer boats. Model equivalent to a real-life 36 footer vessel. Barebones fiberglass hull from a UK manufacturer. Powered with a brushed 500 motor, 30A controller, 9.6v NIHM battery. Video made during first trial at the Eibsee lake in Bavaria, Germany.
If you research who the original builders were, then the plans would be most likely be available from the archives of the builders. In most cases where vessels were built in Scotland for instance, the plans, if available would be held either by the Glasgow University Archives or the Scottish Archives. Although there are costs involved in obtaining copies of the originals, it is well worth it in the long run so that the details is correct. The model looks great.
First and foremost I would like to thank everyone that answered my question about fiberglassing. Your help guided me through the process and I believe that it came out very good, but still needs more work to smooth out the resin and of course I will post more progress pictures later on. The name of the tug is “STATIA RELAINT”. This is one of a fleet of four vessels built by Samakona Yards in Spain. I chose this one because of the stealth lines that has throughout the structure or just because I love how it looks. I am an artist (painter), and we fall in love with colors and shapes, so maybe thats another reason why Im building this particular one. I was lucky to find the plans and enlarge them to 33” approximately 1/32 scale. This will be my FIRST scratch built even dough I have built others from kits, but never like the experts I see in this forum. I will be open for questions, suggestions and criticism. Thank You Julian From Sunny Miami. 😎
im making waterline models of merchant vessels of the 50s and 60s and having trouble to get cowl vents scale 1.250 length approx 8 to 12 mm.Does anyone know of a supplier for such and any other fittings of this scale
Hi, CLR - Center of lateral resistance - its size is given by the lateral surface of the submerged part of the ship. Lateral. [Latina], surface area - total submerged surface of the side elevation of the vessel-- Center of lateral is important for determining the balance of sailing considering wind pressure. Please forgive me some minor translation problems .. Tom
[Score: 9/10] 79"/4400g Adolph Bermpohl Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 5mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 3 motors (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner (15Amps) ESC - Comments: My build and adaption of safety vessel carrying smaller stern carried lifeboat "The Vega Sac" now sold on. The drop down stern door has been made solid and she is now a self contained motor lifeboat vessel. Very manoeuvrable, quick and ballasted down rides most pond water that can be thrown at her. Currently in build, motors installed.
Hi Scratchbuilder Welcome to the site. Clearly a Scottish inter island steamer. If you look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MV_Arran you sill see that : "The previous Arran of 1933 was renamed Kildonan, to release the name - she was scrapped on arrival of MV Glen Sannox in 1957". Its possible the original builder based your model on this vessel (scrapped in 1957) and that could be a pic of the original you have posted. The Basset-Lowke motor is clearly of some age and value should you wish to replace it with a new motor. There are lots of links on Google to this subject and hopefully you will be able to find more pics as you research. Good hunting Dave