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Hi and welcome to the forum. Yup, SLEC are good guys. They're within a pleasant car toodle from me. I have a set of Crash Tender fittings from them since they bought out the Vintage Model Boat Company. Sea Commander is a lovely boat and all the Aerokits are good performers. I have several. Good to see another Chris-Craft builder on here. The world needs more woody fans! Cheers, Martin
Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of paints were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went acrylic and their previously excellent paints started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin
Very neat job, Doug. On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him. What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire. Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT! Cheers, Martin
Kevin, having just got hold of a SLEC fittings kit for a birthday present from my dear wife I can confirm that in fact they are not in plastic, but white metal. All of them. There are no instructions or parts list. They are the old Yeoman fittings kit, a set of which I was promised by Ivan of IP Engineering as I was involved with his works for a while as a pattern maker and he showed me all the original patterns for what I assume is what SLEC now sell, as Ivan flogged off all his Vintage Model Boat Company rights to them. Chances are he is now just casting fittings sets to SLEC as they don't have casting facilities at their place in Watton. I had an original Mersey Marine set with my Crash Tender for my 11th Christmas, but it was stolen and they no longer exist alas. Cheers, Martin
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.
From Boaty Does anyone know if there are manufacturers who are producing replicas of the Aerokits 40 inch P.T Boat kit. I bought one many years ago but it was already built and had an I.C in it which I replaced with electric power. I foolishly sold it some time after when I took up kart racing and I am now looking for another one. The Vintage Model Boat Company are excellent but I don't 😎think they do the P.T Boat
I have spoken to the person who built the boat. It is based on a Vintage model boat company design. It was scratch built and is made of strips of mahogany as I originally suspected. Having looked at the Vintage model company site it most resembles a sea hornet, however another kit may have been available at the time it was made. The strips of Mahogany were the builder making use of the materials they had to hand at the time, hence the vertical strips! The interior is covered in fine fibreglass mesh and 3 thin coats of fibreglass resin. Work on the restoration continues!
Hi Jon It might be worth phoning the Vintage Model Boat Company as they may have knowledge of the exact items for your requirements not shown on their website. Also Scale Hobbies in Skelmersdale may be helpful too. Regards Boaty
Hi jonbliss, Had one of these about 9 years ago and fitted a 380 brushed motor in it running off a 7.2 volt nicad 😀 Currently I have an Italeri PT109 with a 480 brushed fitted. Boat is quite fast but also very light. Battery is 7.4 volt Lipo 2200 mAh 30C. Also try Vintage Model Boat Company website as they have details of both brushed and brushless motors plus details of related accessories for your particular model. Regards Boaty
Just planning ahead a bit here, I am going to build the Sea Rover boat from the Vintage Model Boat company this winter. Rather than stick the Perspex on the inside of the windows I would like to have window frames. I thought I had a good idea by heating angled plasticard in hot water and bending it around the aperture, this was not a success (and scolded my fingers) then I tried a heat gun, this was not a success either. I could cut the outer bit out of thin plasticard but the problem is getting it even all the way round and the same on all windows, then run thin plasticard around the aperture and glue it to the outer piece Mmmm So I would appreciate any good ideas or explanations from anyone that has done it. Alan
hI guys we have recently purchased a vosper 46ft RAF crash tender 34.5 Inch kit with motor, electrical speed controller and servo from the vintage model boat company. ON receipt of the kit we have realised we are missing a reciever(we have an existing Planet T5 digital remote control) the kit we have at present: H.KING HK 15139 servo CAR-45A electrical speed controller Turnigy Aerodrive D3536/61250KV motor question 1: can anyone recommend a reciever that will work with the kit and controller we have? question 2 : can anyone provide a wiring diagram to connect the kit we have? we were supplied with a diagram of sorts but connection between the speed controller and the mptor as welll as the reciever/servo Is vague plus cable colours are different and not marked. any Information would be much appreciated many thanks quirky PS. apologies If we have posted In the wrong area of the forum!
HI Alan and Shaun I thought about some working monitors but gave up after trying to make some. I guess they would have to be made of plastic as the white metal ones are non starters. they are too complex and brittle. I wonder If Vintage Model Boat Company are planning on making some as there Is definitely a market out there for both restorers of the Fireboat and also the new builds from VMBC. I feel that the basis for working monitors should be around a car windscreen washer motor with flexible tubing leading to brass tubes Inside the monitors themselves. A 12 volt supply could be provided by a small battery Independent of the main power supply and on/off by a servo controlled switch. 😊 Regards Boaty
Fireboat restoration completed after four months work and Vintage Model Boat Company sent me a great set of cast metal fittings at 1/16th scale which finished the job . I opted for brushed 600 motor and I found a used 30 amp ESC In my parts box that Is lipo friendly though I will be sticking to NiMH 8.4 volt as they act as ballast. Locally, the lakes are relatively small and this Is another reason why I dont need a brushless with a lipo. Restoration was fairly challenging as the boat was of early sixties vintage and some of the superstructure parts had delaminated and needed replacing completely. To add to this, when I acquired the boat I found that they were several layers of paint, type not known, so It was having to get down to the bare wood. Another Interesting observation was that the original motor mount appeared to have been drilled to mount a Taycol Standard which I recall was advertised In the 1960s by Taycol and Installed In the Aerokits Fireboat In their brochure. On the water the boat performs well and after looking at other Fireboats I feel that there are further details to be added as I have tried to keep mine as It would have been originally. Boaty 😊 😊