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>> Home > Tags > volts

volts
volts
Working radar by chippy Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi Chugalone Chris Brown used to do a very small motor ideal for radars working on about 1.5 to 3 Volts. You may be able to hide it in the base of the radar bottom piece. I looked on his site but couldn't see them, he usually has them at various shows. give him a phone call for details. http://www.christopher-wyn-brown.co.uk/ Hope this helps. regards Mike

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave

No power by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Nick, don't get upset, just slow down and try to be a little more accurate for us. Above all don't just plunge in with 'wild' experiments if you're not sure of the way forward. We are happy to help, and your problems are not insignificant, we all have some as we get older, but there's not much we can do if it is already too late due to 'wild' experiments🤔 Dave may well be right, after all this trial and error you may need to charge the battery again. That's why I asked if you have a simple voltmeter; a) to check the battery volts and b) if it is getting to the RX. Basic test engineering; #1: if it don't work has the circuit got volts? #2: If not why not ?? So, can you check the battery voltage please? Cheers Doug PS if possible (budget / 'er indoors or whatever) I can strongly recommend a simple cheap variable power supply to power such tests instead of having to rely on the battery from the boat. Let us know when you have the new battery and are charged up ready to go again. 👍😉

Flickering LED by EAGLE Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Sorry the volts are 2.4. Dave

Flickering LED by EAGLE Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi If you go on to Components web site you will find Flickering LED's, l have used them on my TID. There forward volts is 3.3. Dave

Motor suppression by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi guys, after reading all your advice including muddy's pm. I've fitted the suppressors and earthed the motor can to shaft tube, then run the motor for 6 hours starting on 1.5 volts And working up by 1.5 volts every 20 minutes, plus running in reverse at each voltage step. Finally up to 12volts. No arcing and no interference. But while doing this I found another problem, the prop shaft was bent, it took about half an hour to true it up, now super quiet. I used Mitchell Marine Grease in the shaft tube. (Available at all good fishing tackle shops). Tomorrow I will try to do a load test in water if my grandsons paddling pool will take it as I want to know the run time on my SLA and gell batteries. Well that's it for tonight I'm pooped. Good night. Colin.

Which Cable To Use by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Joe I guess this is a follow on from your last request re charging batteries in the boat. Your tandem is usually referred to as parallel connected where the positive terminals on each battery are connected together as are the negative terminals. This will give you 12 volts but double the Amphr capacity in your case to 24Amphr. Is this to be used in the fishing boat with the working winch? As Doug advised the total expected current draw will determine the cable required and you should protect this with a fuse in the positive lead from the batteries. If you can run separate cables from the battery to the ESC and the winch control then they will only need to carry the current for that device. Again each cable should have an appropriate fuse. As regards the charging lead this will be less than 5 amps and your SLA will have suitable leads. I would not recommend charging SLA's in parallel as in my experience one always charges first and the charger goes into trickle mode leaving one battery undercharged. I thinke you will need to have the two positive battery connections accessible so you can charge each separately. Halfords have a range of cables which should cover your requirements and also have fuses. Cheers Dave

What battery do you choose? by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
The esc has a max top end input voltage. So an esc that runs between 6 volts and 11.1 volts will blow up if using 24 volts.or any battery over 11.1 volts The same with a motor that runs from 6 volts to 12 volts Again 24 volts is a problem or any battery over 12 volts

What battery do you choose? by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
My esc is rated at 24 volts My motors and there are two them them are rated at 12 volts to 30 volts so I use 2 x 12 volt batteries. The size of the batteries depend on the size of the boat. Another model has a 7.2 motor and the esc can run up to 11.1 volts so I use a 7.2 battery for this as the model is small the battery is also small.. The larger the boat the larger the battery that can be used. Mine are also used as part of the ballast.. so the large batteries have a dual purpose for my tug...

Lightship by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi David, Great job on the Model, The Light Ship"AMBROSE" is a good memory for me! I still remember having to go up her mast and change her lights. She uses custom light bulbs rated at 150 Volts can't remember the amps though! Thanks, for sharing the Picture just showed it to the wife. She liked your model as well! Ed.👍👍👍

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go

Muddys Tarpon 8 by muddy Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hello Wayne, thanks for that, did try a couple of alternate props, with not to much noticeable difference, as i sit and ponder here, my other comment was " It's the newness", the boat is approx 36 x 9 so perhaps a little large for a 386, i was also trying to keep the voltage low at about 6 volts, less battery weight and all that. The refit is ready to go, and water awaits, Many thanks Muddy....

Muddys Tarpon 9 by muddy Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, Not so good at the pond, with the drive motor a 386, only managed walking speed, even at 12 volts, but must say there were very clean lines and little to no water disturbance.. Back in the workshop, a 777 motor was found and fitted, with a new motor mount plate and a rewire.. Fingers crossed. Muddy ....