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>> Home > Tags > volts

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hello Canabus. Just looked at the motor and battery info you supplied and neither of the specs are available or have been superceded. The problem for me is that I do not understand what all the figures mean. As an old electrical engineer, 1100kv means to me that it is 1100 kilo volts!! I dont think so! Other than being a part number, does 3639 mean anything? Similarly 3S? Lipo 5800mah OK, but 25C? Is there a site anywhere which will explain these number to me? Best regards, Maorkullen

Servo choice for yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Me again. I am finding the choice of servos mind-numbingly huge. I feel I should have a new steering servo for Vanity. I have a lot of other servos kicking around and I can only assume they work on a modern Orange Rx, but I'm thinking even a tight wad like me can justify a new servo. I would like it to be a bit lower than the Futaba I currently have out as it has to operate below the bottom of the winch drum and take two Bowden cables to the rudder as the rudder shaft is steeply raked, so only cable operation will do. Any suggestion welcome. I don't need speed or even especially accuracy, although reliability would be nice. 4.8volts too please. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
most 6V sail winches will work fine on 4.8 volts. if you NEED 6V then things get way more interesting. Check to see what voltage your receiver can handle ( some have built in BECs some not). in the event your radio needs nominal 5V ( 4.8) and sail winch 6V then you need a 6V power supply and a BEC to power the receiver. However some sail winches have a built in BEC so you can power your radio via the winch. ( BEC= battery eliminator circuit in effect a voltage regulator )

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Thanks, Norman and Haverlock. When I say pen cells, I mean rechargeable, I couldn't remember the daft modern description of their size (AA, is it?). Having said that I can't even remember the old description now. U16, was it? Anyway those little things that go in clocks and my DAB radio. I bought a load cheap from Lidl's and blow me if they ain't still going strong. If the rechargeables are 1.2 Volts, is there a holder for 5 cells to get 6 Volts? And whilst the Orange Rx can take it and the GWS winch works on 6 volts, what about A.N.Other servo for steering? Can that take 6 volts? Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:- All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts, The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal. Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture paints a thousand words). Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soon👍 Norman.

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Boatshed, that's crazy, £80 fine for running your boat, i'd like to have met that ranger (jobsworth) you could rob your local sweet shop and got fine less. I to have several SCs 40,45,60 and a 90 ABC wonderful bargain little engines, the 60 must have had, no exaggeration, at least 20 gallons of fuel run through it and it's still as good as new, the 90,O.M.G., has that much compression it needs 24volts to start it. My pride and joy is my veron huntsman which I built in 1966 with a 15cc gannet four stroke petrol engine.

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Doug. I checked the percentage fill when I received them. They were 31% at 3.67 volts per cell. I am now at home so I cannot check them again until August.😱

More running in at Bournville. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
How old is the motor? Capacitors don't last forever, especially if they are not used (volts applied) for several years.

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I have now left the batteries at a storage charge of 3.85 volts per cell. I will let you know where they stand when I return in August. The ammo boxes are a great idea. I bought two from ebay at £12 each. They are of super quality. I have transported one with the boat to my boating river in Hungary. The other is here. Thank for all the advice. It made things a lot easier than they could have been during my first uses of LiPo batteries. They are much easier to use now that I have some experience.😊

Sea Queen prop shaft by Rex3644 Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
What is the KV of your motor and how many volts do you intend to use? The theory is that this is how it should be done and in practice I Have done this setup with Huco type couplings which turned over very smoothly but they could not handle the high revs ie14.000 The Radio Active couplings are first class but again I have experienced some balance issues and vibration with them. I worry slightly that the length of 2 couplings together is somewhat long but I may be totally wrong. All you can do is to try it I shall follow with interest

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a “feel” for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. If it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the “dry” propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. If it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

47" Fireboat power question by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Thanks Ron. I always though the I'v times the voltage gave the prop revs. As my G-60 is only a 500kv, then my 4s at 14volts should be sufficient, but a 3s might be a bit short at 11.1v. But I will give the Graupner 50mm hydro a try, which at the least is a place to start from. Once again, thanks for the advice Ron. Happy sailing, Dave W😊

LiPo batteries by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.