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>> Home > Tags > volts

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The basic of C rating is charge and discharge. ie 2200 mah X 25 max discharge, dont charge above 1amp as it will shorten the battery life and if you are getting close to the 50amp discharge the cells wont last long. The watt meter is fitted in line from the batteries to check what power you are drawing when sailing so giving you an idea about run time. The voltage beepers are needed to protect the cells from being discharged to far, below 3.3 volts and the cells can die. They are fitted into the dallance lead of each battery. There is a deal on ebay for Flurion 3s 2200 lipos £12-99 each i have 4 in use in my RAF Fire Tender with twin 700BB turbo motors, get about 15 mins at full throttle Mark

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Chris I know of no easy way for you to determine the voltage. However motors do have a coil resistance value measured across the terminals. Also if you can see the coil windings a thick wire usually indicates a motor designed for high speed and current. A thinner wire may produce a motor with lower speed and less current and more tork. If you check the Graupner and look at the windings this may help you identify the other two. In my experience it's usually too low a voltage that's the problem resulting in slow revs and little if any tork. At the other end of the scale too high a voltage will result in very high revs and lots of sparks from the brushes. In this case if you continue to apply the volts you will damage the motor. Many electric drills were powered by motors rated at 9v and did indeed have an impeller cooling fan. That said Mabuchi and Johnson produced a vast range of motors all looking similar on the outside but wired very differently inside depending on the ultimate use. I suggest you try with progressively higher voltages and assess which is best for the two unknowns. Finally most motors are designed to work over a range of voltages so I usually measure both the upper and lower values so I can select the right motor for a particular model.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Thanks for the prompt re source. Could have got caught there. Seems to say 12v minimum input. I am only running at 7volts..... NPJ

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Top prize to Marky, it is indeed a willys jeep, I found a 1/10 scale model on Thingiverse, I'm printing everything at 63% to get 1/16 scale. In comparison to the LCM3 it isn't taking very long to print, dependant on how it turns out I may print a few 😎👍 More pics tonight🎈 The printer runs off a transformer at 12 volts, to be honest I don't pay any attention to power consumption 🤓 Cheers Wayne

Sunk Boat Marker Buoy System by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
How often has it actually been needed? Not too often I hope 😉 Must admit I've been considering a similar system to keep track of my U Boat. Made to look like one of the Communication Buoys released to the surface. Sudden thought! Opens the possibility of fitting a 2.4Gig TX with telemetry to check battery volts and water intrusion!! Cheers Doug 😎

NB by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Trying to reply to your query about Huntsman power plant, cant find the right place.... anyway cant give you a sensible answer as I dont know. It's an old brushed motor given to me. Will operate up to 24 volts and I'm running it on 14. I think its just right. Cheers

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Aye aye sir! Message received and understood! 👍 Go with what you have first. Don't look bad, but you have a pretty big boat there! One thing; NiCad 😡 that's a No No these days, at least swap it for a NiMh. For such a big boat and thirsty motor I would probably go for at least a 5000mAh. Aboat that size can surely carry it. Otherwise you could try a lightweight LiPo 2S = 7.4V. IF the ESC is declared as 'LiPo safe', then it shuts down when the cell voltage reaches the minimum, usually set 3.0 or 3.2 volts. A decent modern 2.4Gig RC set (e.g the Turnigy i6) will tell you the battery voltage by telemetry back to the TX display! 😉 If you ain't happy with the performance an upgrade may well cost you a candlelight dinner .... on top of the 80 quid! 😲😉😉 Let us know how it goes (the boat I mean 😁) Cheers Doug 😎

Richards 48" Swordsman by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, The 'S' rating of a LiPo pack stands for the number of 3.7V cells in the pack. Therefore the 6S pack has 22.2V !! The kV rating of a brushless motor stands for '1000RPM per volt'. So, for the sake of illustration, a 1000kV motor would spin at max 22.000 revs at full volts from a 6S !!!! 😲 and will probably draw a lot current! Speed will depend mainly on the size and pitch of the prop, amongst other factors, including hull shape and weight. In this respect a Bigger prop is NOT always Better! The charge / discharge rate is given by the 'C' parameter of the pack. The better quality packs are marked with maximum charge and discharge rates in Amps (A). Cheers Doug 😎

Am i useing the right esc by Steve-Teresa Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Having had my boats in dry dock for a number of years I decided to dust them of, update them and put them back on the water, one thing I have done is to change the mechanical speed controllers on two boats for ESC units (both different volts, different control esc's and motors), my question is.. are they suppose to make a noise when running from stop to nearly full, at stop they are quiet, at full they are also quiet, the noise I can only describe as high pitch whistle? any advice or even a yes they do that would be helpful..

Seabreacher by canabus Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve The Graupner Speed 900BB Torque specs are 6-40 volts, 6,500 rpm, 54A amps, shaft 6mm, dia. 51.5 mm, length 95mm and weight 645 grams. A brushless motor like the Hobbyking L5055 600kv is 11.1- 22.5 volts(3S -6S) power 1500watts, 55 Amps, shaft 6mm, dia. 50mm, length 55mm and weight 311 grams. On 3S=6660 rpm, 4S=8880 rpm and 6S=13500 rpm. The brushless motors are far more powerful and with an ESC with handles up to 6S(22.5 volts) you would have rpm's to drive a water jet unit. Canabus

battery charging by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Roy, I like your want for the answers! I have an eagle tree, great bit of kit, but, you are relying on the given info regarding the battery to be correct. As an example, I have an internal resistance meter, I fly planes, so rely on accurate lipo battery info. The "c" rating, and milliamps on most chinese battery stuff is grossly over egged! as are esc ratings and so on. I wouldnt get too hooked on these stats. If the batt is losing a cell, throw it and get another, its not worth the hassle. Overlay that graph with volts, this should correspond to the amp spikes, and if you have a gps then also overlay speed, faster is more amps is quicker volts drop for enjoyment 😲 check out my amp draw on my Huntsman! Paul

What motor have I got? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris They are all based on 550 motors made by Mabuchi or Johnson. They were GP motors available in different configurations for specific purposes. You can look on data tables to find the exact specs if the motors still have visible markings. The Graupner is designed to run on 8.4volts but the motors can be wound to run on different voltages. I suspect the one with the fan is taken from an electric drill. They used to be popular with the fly boys pre brushless so they are available in large quantities at cheap prices. I suggest you run them with an ammeter connected to a 8.4 (approx) battery and see what current they draw. High current would be good for a fast runaround for 10 mins or so, low current will have more tork and be suitable for a scale cabin cruiser/tug etc. If you have two that draw roughly the same current at the same volts they might be suitable in a twin prop, provided they both rotate at the same speed. Dave

correct size of wiring by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
I apologise if this has already been covered here but I am now at the point of installing the motor in my new model. The motor is a Graupner speed 600, and the specs are : Nominal voltage 8.4 V Operating voltage range 4.8-9,6 V No-load rpm 15500 No-load current drain 1.8 A Current drain at max. efficiency 11 A Current drain when stalled 70 A Max. efficiency without gearbox 75 % If I use 8.4 volts what size wiring do I need? Do I need to cater for the 70A current or the 11A current, or somewhere in between, with a fuse? Sorry to be a bit dim on this but I am confused (with most things these days!) Chris

ESC POWER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Oh yeh! Every picture tells a story! Had we known that at the beginning we would have missed out on an interesting debate 😉 Looks like you triggered the ESC's thermal cut-out. Lucky it wasn't permanently damaged. MIL Standard 217 Handbook for calculating MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) lists the two top Stress Factors as Environment - Over-temperature and Exceeding rated Voltage - Over-volts. 🤔 After that comes Component Count - the more parts the more likely it is that one will go PHUT when you need it 😡 During my recently ended career I had a lot to do with MTBF for naval ship systems, and the associated FMECA - Failure Mode Effect And Cause Analysis! Lesson learned!? We all learn from our mistakes and those of others - I hope😉 Have fun with the new ESCs.👍 Don't get any speeding tickets 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS having a second power supply in the system more than doubles the MTBF. BTW: Where do you buy your 4.6 cell LiPos !?😲

ESC POWER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
First, thanks to all for their helpful replies. To answer a few questions: 1) The installation has two independently controlled ESC/Power train systems in a long, narrow patrol boat. They were fitted for maneuverability and achieve that target well. 2) All Rx functions failed when the ESC failed, pointing to a BEC circuit failure. 3) The ESCs are of UK manufacture and, I hasten to add, have previously worked well. Have used this product for years and am satisfied with it. 4) The presumed reason for failure was, in a effort to increase the performance and reduce the weight of the model the power has (after a series of trials with 9 to 14 v NiMh batteries) gradually evolved to a 17 volt Li-Po system. This final iteration had performed well for some time. Guess using a 12 volt ESC on a 17 volt system would eventually lead to failure - Mea Culpa! Funnily enough,when cooled down all functions work properly - until they heat up again. Have ordered 2 more ESCs from the same manufacturer, but now rated at 12 - 24 volts - should solve the issue. In view of the various recommendations to use a separate Rx power system, think this is the easiest solution to avoid a total system failure in future. Again, thanks for the advice.