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>> Home > Tags > volts

850 Brushless by canabus Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Andy Slightly more power with a brushless motor is a no go!!! Brushless motors the same size are far more powerful !!! But, the about same RPM a Turnigy L5055-700kv(500 rpm more on a 4S(14.8 volts) Lipo battery would be a good replacement. Mind you at 1600 watts( about 2 and 1/4 HP) these will used in a large boat like a 46" Vosper Crash Tender or a 46" Sea Queen!!! My move into brushless motors I have found that they are 7 to 10 times more powerful and equal to, if not better than the old IC motors!!! My Sea Hornet, Sea Commander and Huntsman run brushless motors . My Crash Tender is getting the 5055 motor, so it will be interesting to see what it will go like!!

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Happy hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
The motor units are Robbe EF76 with fitted gearboxes, rated at 6 - 8volts, superb units and very reliable, did you strip and clean the gearboxes as well???? were the photos taken before you cleaned the motors??? The battery space looks to have been fitted with 4 x 6v 4ah batteries, probably giving 6v drive power, might have been 12v. Is there an ESC fitted?? that would give us the final key, apart from the red and black wire in the 4th photo is there any other wiring??? Mark

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
HI JJ. Your question about a safety bag, Damaged / overcharged lipo's can catch fire, think of the Boeing scandal that grounded the fleet last year. Charging in a safety bag is advised the bag is fire retardant material, which will contain any problem. Your remarks about the boat not coming onto the plane is down to the weight of the battery, my fireboat started with 7.2v NimH packs 1 for each motor, Graupner 700bb's, good cruise but not quick, but short run time, 10mins. I have re-wired to allow 3s lipo's, but not had chance to test it yet, but should go like stink. With a fast hull, weight is important, 4 x lipo packs, 1kg, half the weight and possibly 6 times the power delivery. In your first post you mention 600 motors on 6volts, they are probably rated at 8.4volts, same as my 700's hence the lack of performance, also the battery, at 12ah it should last about 30mins, was it fully charged??? and is it showing at least 6volts, ie not got a duff cell??? Canabus, in his post described an ideal set up with brushless motors, 1600 watts is just over 2 hp, 750 per horsepower so you can see the difference in performance with different motors and battery set up's

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
RN - Thanks for the confidence boost it does help! I have picked up the gizmo that provides 5 volts off the mixer. It is very small and will tuck away. Re rudders, I have been reading that larger ones can help steering when in reverse, also that small rudders the other side of the props are good........ All up for consideration at the moment. Image here from 'Andy' on, but other shapes are around. All the best. NPJ

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
I know this will sound very basic to experienced members, but my question is; If I want to use an "MTroniks" Viper Marine ESC, which is rated at 12 volts, and a similarly rated brushed motor, how can I easily get 12 volts out of two 7.2 NiMh battery packs? As you can surmise, my electronics expertise is zero. Brian Hill.

rotating radars off mast by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi smiggy I have a couple of these motors and they are good and mine run off a 1.5v battery (max3v). Planetary gears but relatively quiet at low revs (volts). Mine came from and cost about £6 ea. Your link should be Well worth a look. The stepper motors I have are 10x14mm (including the shaft) and are direct drive. I will be posting a thread soon showing more details Nice scale model Dave

rotating radars off mast by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Seafarer, I have a few ships with rotating radars I have a few of these motors per the link below. They rotate quite well with one cell (1.4 volts) Gear Motor 3 - 224:1 90 Degree Shaft I also have some of these, but they require a bit more vertical space. MFA 951 Series Motor and Gearbox 298:1 6volt (from CMB in the UK). I run these on 3 volts. Both are quite small. I have also used old servos in a couple of places.

Motor problem by canabus Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi I use a Turnigy 180Amp watt meter and power analyzer(part No.9598000004-0) 0-60 volts , size 85 x 42 x 25mm, 82 grams. Requires your battery connectors. Use it in line with the main battery on board the boat. We used it on my mate's Spearfish and got 72.88 Amps on a brushless motor at 37 KPH. Canabus

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi reilly4 I do not think it is as large as 60mm as it is a three bladed prop, if it was a two bladed one I would agree with you as the blades would be directly opposite each other hence 60mm, but being 3 bladed they are not 90 degrees to the centre point, without taking it off and drawing a circle around it to measure I would hazard a guess it is a 30mm prop. If memory serves me correctly the late Swindon Model Shop which was run by Yan who knew his stuff recommended the 540 motor along with the prop for the size of the boat. I will check the Sea Commander plans as I think it has the size of the required prop listed. Haverlock the motor is rated 4.5 to 15 volts and the battery is 7.2 volt, I would have to run the boat in water to see what the motor is drawing under load, I may get a tad wet trying to keep up with it to read an amp meter, or sink the boat by sitting on it😉 I think the overheat problem was to do with the motor mounting braket covering the front air slots on the motor. However I have a water scoop which I did not fit at the time of building so may retro fit and buy a new motor set up for water cooling, the next question would be where abouts do I fit it?

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, looking at the markings on the motor case, it might be a 550 type, and rated at 7.2 volts, so it would seem to be at the top end of its capacity, did you manage to get the prop diameter? also is it plastic or brass? A 600 motor is a bit larger size and power wise but would still fit your motor mount, they are common in power drills so usually have plenty of torque, but can be power hungry. A prop to suit would be about 40mm, 2 blade or 35mm 3 blade both in brass, plastic props tend to be racing types with deep cuffs on the blades, possibly the cause of the burnout! The 850 is a lot larger and more powerful but would need a new mount and again is power hungry, probably needing 12 volts as well. Have a look on ebay 600 motors are about £5, but check to see what the rating of your ESC is, needs to be at least 20amps, although if it survived cooking the old motor it must have a good rating. Add a 15 - 20 amp fuse for protection. Just had a thought, is the prop shaft stiff to turn? should spin freely without the motor connected, might have old oil or grease in the tube causing excessive drag, this could cook the motor as well. A pic of the prop and its size would be a great help. Hope this helps Mark

Motor problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard I suspect the prop fitted is too big for the motor. If the pond had lots of weed this will also have placed a heavy load on the motor. Ideally the prop should be a lesser diameter than the motor and preferably not too coarse a pitch. A 550 motor that you intend to fit should be fine. Do a quick run round the pond and bring into the bank to check the motor. If you can't touch without going ouch! its overloaded and you need a smaller prop. Mention has already been made about the batteries. The motor is rated at 7.2 volts so one battery is the correct voltage. If you connect two batteries in series I suspect you will see some more smoke. To help the model to come onto the plane it will help if the bulk of the ballast and weight is towards the rear. Hope this helps

lipo storage charge by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
I am new to this lipo stuff and have a query about the storage charge. I have a SkyRC Imax B6 charger (a genuine one) and 2 x 2S 2200mAh batteries. On the display screen of the charger, before charging has been started, in the storage mode, it says 7.4V. When I press enter it charges the battery up to 7.6 volts. Is this correct? Electricary confuses me enough without this sort of thing! Chris

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The basic of C rating is charge and discharge. ie 2200 mah X 25 max discharge, dont charge above 1amp as it will shorten the battery life and if you are getting close to the 50amp discharge the cells wont last long. The watt meter is fitted in line from the batteries to check what power you are drawing when sailing so giving you an idea about run time. The voltage beepers are needed to protect the cells from being discharged to far, below 3.3 volts and the cells can die. They are fitted into the dallance lead of each battery. There is a deal on ebay for Flurion 3s 2200 lipos £12-99 each i have 4 in use in my RAF Fire Tender with twin 700BB turbo motors, get about 15 mins at full throttle Mark

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris I know of no easy way for you to determine the voltage. However motors do have a coil resistance value measured across the terminals. Also if you can see the coil windings a thick wire usually indicates a motor designed for high speed and current. A thinner wire may produce a motor with lower speed and less current and more tork. If you check the Graupner and look at the windings this may help you identify the other two. In my experience it's usually too low a voltage that's the problem resulting in slow revs and little if any tork. At the other end of the scale too high a voltage will result in very high revs and lots of sparks from the brushes. In this case if you continue to apply the volts you will damage the motor. Many electric drills were powered by motors rated at 9v and did indeed have an impeller cooling fan. That said Mabuchi and Johnson produced a vast range of motors all looking similar on the outside but wired very differently inside depending on the ultimate use. I suggest you try with progressively higher voltages and assess which is best for the two unknowns. Finally most motors are designed to work over a range of voltages so I usually measure both the upper and lower values so I can select the right motor for a particular model.