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>> Home > Tags > volts

volts
volts
Lightship by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 minutes ago
Hi David, Great job on the Model, The Light Ship"AMBROSE" is a good memory for me! I still remember having to go up her mast and change her lights. She uses custom light bulbs rated at 150 Volts can't remember the amps though! Thanks, for sharing the Picture just showed it to the wife. She liked your model as well! Ed.👍👍👍

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go

Muddys Tarpon 8 by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello Wayne, thanks for that, did try a couple of alternate props, with not to much noticeable difference, as i sit and ponder here, my other comment was " It's the newness", the boat is approx 36 x 9 so perhaps a little large for a 386, i was also trying to keep the voltage low at about 6 volts, less battery weight and all that. The refit is ready to go, and water awaits, Many thanks Muddy....

Muddys Tarpon 9 by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello, Not so good at the pond, with the drive motor a 386, only managed walking speed, even at 12 volts, but must say there were very clean lines and little to no water disturbance.. Back in the workshop, a 777 motor was found and fitted, with a new motor mount plate and a rewire.. Fingers crossed. Muddy ....

MFA Torpedo 850 motor by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Dave M, the Electronize ESC's i was refering to are good for 24volts and i think 30 amps, the other reference was to the blue chinese esc's that had a nasty habit of smoking Mark

Tamco Tx/Rx by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Nick The MFA/Como drills site lists the motor plus a stall current of 11.2amps at 7.2volts max. I guess you are confirming neither Tx/Rx combination is working. You have mentioned a new handset, is that a new Tx/Rx? Hopefully when it arrives you will have a working radio link. I have used single ESC's with two motors wired in parallel and it will work. Problem is one motor can run faster than the other due to variations within the manufacturing specs. If you can afford two ESC's you will avoid this. You can run from one channel using a Y connector lead as Doug has said. With two ESCs you can run each from a separate battery. If both have BEC outputs you need to disconnect the red lead on at least one ESC and both if you are using a separate Rx battery as Doug has already explained. There are mixer units available which link the motors to the rudder setting to help with steering but you do need two ESC's. If you are an ex flier like myself you can also use two sticks on the TX and control each motor independently. I do hope you manage to get your model working and on the water soon Dave

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Hot wire foam cutter: I started off by watching just about every video on YouTube on the subject. I then bought a few meters of 0.25mm NiChrome wire. At first I thought I'd just need a vertical bench top cutter. An unwanted shelf was liberated from a kitchen unit to use as the base, a couple of 2x1's were screwed underneath to give clearance for the wire connection. A piece of MDF was used for the upper arm. To give some adjustment underneath a block of wood with a screw in one end for the wire to wrap around was screwed to the base in just one position so the block could pivot. I drilled a clearance hole in the end of the upper arm for a long bolt & put a small slot in the end of the bolt to wrap the wire around, a washer and spring were used to give the wire some tension. When the wire heats up it expands so you need something to maintain the tension. Wrap the NiChrome wire on the screw underneath, put it through a hole cunningly placed in line in the base & up to the slot in the bolt in the upper arm, compressing the spring at the same time. Now that's all sorted get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to the screw underneath & one to the bolt on top. This is the bit where I found conflicting information on YouTube, people used all sorts of different things to power their cutters, batteries, pc power supplies & resistors, model railway power supplies, laptop chargers etc etc, everyone recommend different voltages & amperages. Luckily my Lipo charger can be sued as a power supply so I started messing with volt/amp settings, I didn't want the wire to glow red as that's too hot, I ended up using 10 volts & 2 amps, it works a treat. Unfortunately this cutter does have its limitations, throat depth etc. I decided I needed a hand held cutter, going off what I'd learned from the bench cutter this was a doddle. 2 pieces of 7mm steel bar 300mm long, 2mm hole in each end. 1 piece of 30mm square pine for the handle, 8mm hole through each end. Smack bars through holes in handle, get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to each hole at handle end, I just twisted them on & taped everything over. Now here's the trick with the other end, when you attach the NiChrome wire make sure you squeeze the bars together a little to give the tension, attach the other ends of the wires to the power supply & away you go. Like any tool I guess you get better with practice, lol Cheers Wayne

Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Evening Dave, many thanks for the response 😊I wasn't sure how my 'style' would come over! Martin thinks you created a monster 😲 monster fun for all I hope, maybe a breath of fresh air ?? "Tune in next week!" Many German forums are very stiff also nehm ich nicht teil (so I don't take part!). But my brand of humour always stood me in good stead during contract negotiations over the years. Often not so easy to convince the Admiral to spend his hard won millions on my system design, not to mention the yards who want to maximise their own margin. British humour went a long way to breaking the ice with navies and yards around the world. The Koreans and Chinese were the most difficult to bring round, after that Algeria, Oman and UAE were child's play. The navies of Chile, Ecuador and especially Brazil were; very professional (and good dinner parties)👍, interesting! 🤔, and a barrel of laughs 👍😉 in that order! Canada was good, but bl...y cold! 😡 French & Italian yards had great lunches 👍but small budgets (thumb down!)! But seriously though folks; you're right of course, the ancient caps are now useless and I have much better ones now, plus ferrite rings and inductors to choose from. Re voltage; the Taycol specs also give values for 12V running! I can use the Spektrum TX programming to limit the max volts to 12, also, when the Target is fully renovated I will first test it using my regulated PSU to find our where the limits are. Non-destructive I hope. Theoretically the motor will only take what it wants, never mind what the LiPo can provide if asked. I will also use my new Watt-meter; a tip I got here from you guys. 👍 Many thanks for that. Re sparks; thought I might try to see the energy spectrum on my 1G/S digital scope, most energy should be in the VLF-HF band and tail off considerably above VHF so an indication may be possible. Might be able to rig up some sort of rev counter using it's frequency meter?? Worth a try 😉 After several years concentrating on gallivanting round the world I have some catching up to do! You guys have sure accelerated that. Muchas gracias y muito obrigado! I've learned a lot the last 3 months and I think I can give a lot back. Looking forward to it 😎 Haven't used the 35Meg set for years, found it this week while looking for something else, as usual. Maybe I'll resurrect it for the flying boat?? It was replaced long ago with the Graupner MC-10. Latest set is the Spektrum DX6. Still learning how to modify or cancel all the fixed-wing and heli pre-programming I don't need. 🤔 @ John; thanks for the friendly response 👍 There was an ESC in her with the Decaperm while Jessie was using her, massive alu box thing with a big ol' 2055 sitting in a heat sink on top! Did several years good service in HMS Hotspur and still works, I think! Glad to revive some hopefully happy memories. Idea for a new topic perhaps- "Against the stream - Recycling the hard earned technologies of our youth!" 😉 Happy modelling, or better "Sailing" 😎 Gute nacht aus München 😉 PPS @ Dave (and / or other administrators): WE NEED MORE EMOTICONS OR EMOJIS AS YOU CALL THEM! Check your dumb-phones!

Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Good post Doug. Are you sure those caps are still within spec? If you really do intend to power your Taycol with 14volts at high amps I think you may have a few sparks. Wasn't this designed for a 6v accumulator? Be good to see this all on the water. 35Mhz in Germany will not worry us in the UK but you may need to keep an eye out for angry fly boys! Pink is different but looks quite pleasing Dave

And now it is ESC time by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Specs say 180Watt so 15amp max at 12v. I suspect the actual stall current is somewhat higher - a wattmeter connected between the battery and motor whilst briefly stalling the motor with a wooden clothes peg should give an indication. I do mean momentary unless you want to cook the motor or wires! The Electronize will work up to 24 volts which would halve the current and may be a better solution. I was going to look on the site and see if they suggest an ESC but my McAfee warned me off- don't know why. This is a commercial motor and from its pic I suspect high current. It's also possible that it is multipole and may be generating lots of back emf which may need some fast Schottky diodes adding to the ESCs to protect the MOSFETS. I would check with the tech guys at the ESC suppliers to see if they recommend their product for this motor. Dave

Tamco Tx/Rx by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Nick, So which 2 pins did you use??? As far as I can tell both Hitec and Tamco use the same convention with the battery + in the middle. ALMOST the standard these days! BUT, some receivers have the - pin towards the outside of the RX case, some towards the inside. Hitec I'm not sure, Tamco has the - pin towards the outside. See photo. So you need to put the 2 pin batt plug in the outer 2 pins, with RED in the middle. If you accidentally put the batt on the inner 2 pins and back to front(i.e. black in the middle) you may have blown the receiver! Can you identify which component (RX, servo, ESC) smoked? And how much smoke was there, a quick puff or lots? From the symptom, screws revving like mad, sounds like you may have had + volts on the signal line and blown the ESC! And probably any other servo connected 🤔 A simple servo tester will tell you if the servos are dead. You can also check the ESC with the tester if you put a little motor on it or a voltmeter. Good luck 😎 PS I now use Spektrum (DX6) and my older sets were Graupner, Futaba. All still going strong after years of service 😉 Attached are common pin outs for the popular brands.

HMS Erebus by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Gdaynorm You were using one of the blue ESCs before and it worked OK, for a while anyway which is common in my experience. This was capable of working up to 12volts whereas your Duratrax sprint is limited to 8.4 volts (4-7 cells NiMh) as is common with model car ESCs. The current capability is quoted at 128 amps so should be OK with most standard motor types May I ask for details of the type of battery you are using? Dave

HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Gdaynorm (Why does that name make me think 'strine'?) 😉 Yes you are absolutely right Duratrax seem to specialise in cars & buggies. The Sprint always seems to appear in the context of the Evader buggy series, also it is listed as discontinued on the Duratrax site! http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html Nothing lasts for ever!! Maybe it is not happy driving two motors? What is the total current drawn? Since it seems almost certainly to be an overheating problem is there sufficient cooling air flow through the boat? Recycled 5V DC PC processor fans can be useful to help here. Since you can test motors by feeding directly I assume they must be brushed. Are your batteries, LiPo or NiMH? In both cases the Sprint has a low voltage cut-out. 3.3V for LiPo, 5.0 V for NiMH. Maybe the cut-out circuit has a hysteresis effect. This means that if the battery recovers slightly when taken off load, and cools?, the boat runs again - until the cut-out point (thermal or volts) is reached again! I would expect the interval between cut outs to reduce slightly with each cycle until the battery is totally depleted. This effect is also noticeable with sealed lead acid accumulators. I would be tempted to bite the bullet and buy 2 ESCs designed for marine use (e.g Graupner Navy VR series or Viper Marine or US/Canada equivalents) and a 'Y' cable to run both in parallel from one RX port. Then each ESC only has to handle half the load. And ensure sufficient cooling air flow, or even water cooling!? How big and heavy is the boat, what type are the motors and what size & type are the props? Cheers from Munich, Doug 😎