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I’ve always wanted to build a WW11 oil tanker of the type my father skippered during the war. It’s named after a tanker he left to go on leave. The crew didn't want him to leave as he would take their luck. It lies off the west coast of Scotland, the captain, a friend of the family, going down with her. It's not the actual Cadillac as it was an older ship, artistic license!
Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. Indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin
I recently tried 2 ESC(s) into one battery connection then into 2 channels of the radio. Received wisdom said that one of the red leads to the radio should be disconnected. This I tried and one ESC ceased to function. So to prevent unwanted feeding on the positive lead from one ESC to another I fitted a diode to each of the ESCs. If you were to do the same I think your setup would work. However if your TX has mixing capability then why not use that ability to mix rudder with the 2 outboard motors so you have the added steering of the 2 outer motors? Any how fit the diodes please this should prevent the ESCs damaging each other its a simple job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-1N4007-rectifier-diodes-DO41-... 20 diodes for £1 the silver band is positive so goes towards receiver plug.
Mornin' Ron, A 'Tall order'! As far as I know there ain't no such animal! How could there be? Each shipping company has there own ideas and 'House' colours. Colours may also change during the ships working life, e.g. if it is sold on to another shipping line. Best you can do is Wiki the ship you are modelling. If it is still in service you should find it on the various Maritime Tracking sites (try www.marinetraffic.com and search the ship's name) or relevant Shipping Company site. If you know the company name Google that. Good luck, cheers, Doug 😎
Hi John, Yes, two or three times actually. I wanted to know the current the charger is rated for. Should be on a label or embossed on the case somewhere. Given that the calculation is easy. V=I*R --> R=V/I Given an initial charging voltage of approx 7.4 +10% = 8.14V and a charge current of 0.5A; V=15-8.14 --> 6.86 R=6.86/0.5 --> 13.72Ω so you need a 12 or 15Ω resistor. P=I*V = 0.5*6.86 --> 3.43W. So you need at least a 5W resistor. A ceramic resistor if there is enough space. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints. Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the results👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints. BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's comments👍
An old friend of mine in Santa Monica who'd made models for years suddenly found he had a sensitivity to styrene and resins and had to pack it up. He bravely decided to go over to all metal work, but something about that disagreed with him too and he packed up all modelmaking as it was starting to affect his wife too. Heaven knows what it could have been with the metal as it was all brass, so none of that nasty storage oil they put on steels. I think I'd just put up with it as I couldn't stop modelmaking even if I wanted to. I did painting when we lived afloat for lack of space, but I didn't find it satisfying enough. Martin
I wanted to demonstrate that a vessel could move due to the power of the sun alone.Introducing a battery would confuse the issue and sceptical people would claim that it was the battery doing all the work !! Cheers