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>> Home > Tags > wanted

wanted
wanted
Help Me Please by Damon Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
I have a rather expensive dilemma and am really hoping that somebody might be willing to help me please…I have a £100, HMS Lion hull and £200, driving gear made specifically for this ship. I used to make RC Ships with a close friend, but he passed away beginning of this year. The problem I have is I was in a road accident a long time ago and as a result I damaged my brain, fracturing my skull. My friend use to be my memory for me explaining what has/had to be done because I forget after a very short while. I am not asking you to pay anything, it was our ship, his uncle or something served on her just after Jutland and Bill wanted to make as much as he could, this is now I want to make as much, I realise that I am asking a lot, but I’m not that bad and it might be fun, I’ve already built 4, ships with Bill, if you’d like a chat my email is hazelldamon2@googlemail.com or leave a message here I’ll then give you phone numbers…Thank you Damon😁 PS. After all the above I forgot to mention where I'm located, sorry...I live in Basingstoke, Hampshire I apologise for not replying folks but I'm afraid this is part of my problem, I forgot I'd placed the request & I now need to remember how to reply to each response 07706,439865 this is my mobile...thanks, sorry I have plans of HMS Lion, but there isn't any measurements on the plans, I've tried converting the plan to the size of the hull I have, it's about 6ft in length

First Boat Build in Progress by metalikhajoe Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
Hello everyone! just starting on my first tow/pusher tug boat. planning to build this from scratch. found a pix of a boat dat I wanted and came up with this. Not much details on it yet but its always good to start somewhere.Laser cut cardboard box material for now. will use marine plywood once all details and proper measurements are ok.

Fantastic Plastic by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
if you wanted to be real fussy, pm stephen see if he can 3d print the top part of the engine that is visible, he did these engines for me

First post... by metalikhajoe Seaman   Posted: 9 days ago
Hello everyone! Just joined the group and this is my first post. I saw some pix of Tug Boats in the net and wanted to try making one from scratch. I tried looking for free plans but I could not find any. I hope some of you can share me some plans if you have any to share. I have an access to a laser cutter and I know it will help me a lot in my build. I also do graphic lay outing on CorelDraw. Hope to meet new friends here. I have also attached some of my builds.

Jet Sprint Boat by Rod Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Have been trying to source a 1/4 scale hull for a jet sprint boat but not successful so decided to make my own Borrowed a small model identical to the one I wanted and set to scaling it up by 2.5 times I have shown the start of the journey and will continue to post development until it is in action Have sourced 1/4 scale driver and navigator together with jet unit and electric water cooled motor which will need to produce 3 to 4 hp to drive the jet unit shaft Hope you all like it because it's been really interesting so far I should be in a position to pour the mould shortly and then have a fibreglass hull taken off😆

Using old motors by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Dave, many thanks for your answer. I wanted a scale speed of 25-40mh, so much slower than the real speed of that figure. As long as they just about plane I'll be happy. I've been trying to get a Bob's board for ages. My old friend has a few in his loft. He used to make all the display models, aircraft and boats, for Bob's models. My R/C gear at it's earliest is Mini Hex from 1971 or Digimac. I can't get the REP single channel I once had, but which was stolen. I should say that my old Crash Tender (which I really should finish some time 53 years later!) always ran a treat with it's Supermarine Special, using said REP sytem. The Basset-Lowke motor is a permanent magnet type so will probably be OK with an ESC, but I have no idea what sort to use as I don't understand them. All I read seems to suggest that they are either expensive or unreliable. And they need "programming", which totally puts me off! I have no model boat clubs near here, so would just use the local canalised river which has both sides accessible and is rarely used by full sized boats. But at least I don't have to worry about other R/C users. Looks like the world is much the same for old motors after all. Cheers, Martin

Planking…. part 3 by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
The aft cockpit deck has quite a few features that will test my novice planking abilities so I started the process by very carefully measuring off the drawings and marking out the positions of the main access hatch, battery hatch and the rear drain holes. I want the main access hatch to be removable so I cut this out from the 4mm ply panel with a Stanley knife and put it aside to work on later, the battery hatch will be non-opening and will have a false panel to represent it. I also pre-cut the drain holes but I intend to plank over these and then open out the holes later. The main hatch aperture was first bordered with 4mm maple strip with mitred corners, and the battery hatch with 6mm strip with mitred and radiused corners as per the Vosper drawings. The rear edge of the deck incorporates the two drains and I used some 2mm ply for the raised portion of this area. With these borders in place I then applied plasticard caulking strips to their edges and then proceeded to lay the 7mm maple strips onto the deck, working out from the centre line until the area was fully planked. Fortunately the spacing worked out quite well and did not requiring any narrow strips at the borders. After trimming all of the ’caulking’ flush to the planks with a sharp chisel the whole panel was sanded smooth. As I wanted a paint finish on the two hatches these were left un-planked so I shaped a piece of 1.5mm ply for the main hatch to bring it up flush with the planking and glued the two together after cutting out two small square holes that will form the lifting handles. A smaller 1.5mm panel was also made to form a false battery hatch cover, also with a lifting handle cut-out, and this will be painted before it’s glued down. A couple of bearers were fixed to the underside of the panel to support the removable hatch. After the glue had fully cured the whole deck was given a single coat of spray lacquer to seal the surface and two hatches were primed and painted the same colour as the main decks and then the false battery hatch cover glued down. I will add some brass fitting details in the next stage before the deck panel receives the final coats of lacquer. Thankfully that’s all the planking in place and I am extremely pleased with the way it’s turned out 😁

Counter Rotating Props by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
with my 4 foot fireboat, I use contra rotating props, from propshop. I was advised by them to have them turning outwards, as viewed from the rear, there was an explanation, I've forgotten it, however, on the water, at speed, turning was difficult, the boat just wanted to roll. I swopped them over, so turning inwards, and the handling was cured in an instance. Its easy enough to try one way, then the other, see what is best for you, but remember to use some sort of none permanent thread lock or you might lose one of your props

Big Blue by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Your link didn't take us to the Shamrock Launch, hopefully you meant it to be this youtube site you wanted - https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=W82tx4t57nI - looks good.

Proboat Volere by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
Thanks guys for your thoughts. I looked at the YouTube video and yes, that is the way I think it should run, with the bow lifted out of the water instead of plowing like a tugboat! I looked at other videos and yep, there's the giant bow wave again. So I am wondering now if the one in the video is version 2. It's still too cold where I live, Pennsylvania, USA to run any boats. I do have a new prop on hand so I can try that first when the weather cooperates. Looking at the Proboat website, I saw two interesting new models. One is a PBR,(was showcased in film Apocalypse Now) that's not released yet. It is powered by twin water-jets. That is one that has been on my build list for a while. So now maybe I will just buy it. The website says it has operating lights and provision to make the forward turret rotate. Sounds good to me. The second is a race boat also powered by a water-jet. I am primarily a scale boat builder but I always wanted to give water-jet propulsion a try. Cheers

Wanted large rc warship by luckylefty Seaman   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi everyone..I'm looking for a large RC warship please email me at (Email Removed - PM Only) if you have one for sale or text me on (Phone Removed - PM Only).. please text as my hearing is terrible Many thanks David

My yacht by Hybrid Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi there everyone wanted to no can any one help me this is Mt yacht it's bin in my family for about 15 years now and I love to take her out sailing. She is 50 inches long and she has 7.1 foothe sails has a fixed to the deck front boom and the other is on the mast I named her storm 04 when I payed 40 pound back 15 year ago please help in identifying what she is thanks ben

Lacquering the hull. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Now that the self-adhesive vinyl lettering and hull markings are now applied and correctly positioned…😉 I can now spray the lacquer finish on the hull. The gloss black areas will have a number of coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas finished in Halfords clear satin lacquer. I started with the gloss lacquer first, so the all the deck area and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas were masked. As I wanted the white waterline to be sealed with the gloss finish I masked below the line. After a thorough wipe over with some panel wipe the first coat of gloss was sprayed followed by a further two coats at 30 minute intervals. Fortunately it all went on without any runs or blemishes so I left it for a week to thoroughly harden after removing the masking. The black area was then masked from the bottom of the waterline, the area cleaned with panel wipe and sprayed with three coats of Halfords clear satin lacquer. With all the masking removed the boat was them put aside and left for a week for everything to dry thoroughly and then I polished the black area with some ‘T-cut’ polish to remove any surface blemishes and bring it to a full shine. All the hull marking and lettering are now firmly fixed and sealed and I’m very pleased with the final results. The next job will be to spray the deck and superstructure with the BS631 RAF Light Grey and then the majority of the paint process will be complete 😁

MPBA Online by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Just wanted to let everyone know that the MPBA has refreshed its online content. The new website design features include a Forum and User Blog together with one of the most up to date Club Directory and Event Calendars on the web. www.mpba.org.uk The Facebook page has also had a refresh and is a lot more active https://www.facebook.com/mpbau k/

The deck anti-slip finish. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The original Vosper drawings state that the deck was finished in a special anti-slip finish called ‘Cerrux’ and according to some well-respected contributors to this site the best way to achieve this finish is to apply a coat of a textured paint on the areas required and then overspray with the desired finish colour. Others have used a Rustoleum product but that proved difficult to obtain but I found a product from Halfords that looked promising. As always I did a test piece using this to see what the results would be like and after the finish colour was applied the effect looked very consistent in texture. At model shows I had previously seen some lifeboat decks that had been ‘texture finished’ and noted that non-textured areas had been carefully masked off. This seems like a great idea and would serve to emphasise the textured effect and also to distinguish it from a very bad spray job! I applied a low tack masking tape to the deck areas and features where I wanted a smooth finish and very carefully trimmed the tape to leave a narrow border, I also masked the positions of the metal deck fittings. Everything else was masked off and the textured spray applied in two very light coats and left to dry. When the masking was removed it revealed a very neat defined border around the foot rails, cabin sides and deck fittings. The deck and cabin sides will be over-sprayed with a couple of light coats of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ that I have had custom mixed and will be, hopefully, accurate to the prototype. 😁