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>> Home > Tags > wanted

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi Peter, Thank you! Happy to help. But I don't claim to know everything😉 I stay out of discussions on things which are not my forte; e.g. yachts and other sailing craft, apart from admiring the woodwork involved, or subs - where I am still at the bottom of the learning curve, but I've been a fan of WW2 warships for years and enjoy researching the history and building them. Been fiddlin' with computers since the end of the sixties! They got a lot smaller since then 😁 I envy you being able to visit the Heywood show 😡 Sorry the 'Extra Time' site has been deleted by FIFA (I couldn't afford the million 'Fee' they wanted😁) Happy building and sailing, cheers Doug 😎

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by Rookysailor Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Doug, Have just sent a message to steve, and wanted to post a link from a website, can you assist in how do I do it Danke Peter

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Very sad if that did happen 🤔😭 Last I heard is that Robin wanted to retire to spend more time with his Missus and go travelling, not to mention his sadly neglected own modelling! He apparently retired in April 2016 and stopped all Mail Order. But retained the moulds with the intention of still making a few hulls To Order BUT for Collection Only! Positively no more Mail Order hectic. Sad if that didn't work out. Cheers Doug 😎

Norfolk wherry plans wanted by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
I have since found out that there was an article in a back issue of model boats magazine does anyone know what issue it was please Thanks in advance

Main deck and cabin walls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎

Norfolk wherry plans wanted by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Does anyone have the plans from model boats magazine that they no longer need cash waiting Checking before I order the plans online

Cabin roof mechanism by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
As I mentioned in a previous post I want to put some detail into the cabin and in order to do this I wanted the roof to open so that the detail can be seen and also giving good access for construction and detailing. So I looked at various lifting lever systems and the one which gave greatest access and took minimal room was a simple parallel bar mechanism. I first made a card model to ensure it worked before investing a lot of work in making the real thing. I used some brass plate cut into 3 x 2mm strips and using 10BA fastenings I constructed the levers and securing plates. Before fitting the mechanism and cutting any roof trusses I tried the mechanism using the brass bars and a card roof replica to once again prove its operation. I then added further cross beams to ensure the roof frame stays stable when the roof is lifted and that the roof skins had sufficient support when closed. All through this design and make session the cabin frame was only secured by temporary pins and had and no roof skins fitted, this enabled it to be lifted off in one piece whilst working on the frame. Now the mechanism works the cabin detail can be finished before finally fitting the roof skins.

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi CB, Re 'Faraday Cage: I see what you're getting at, of course you are correct that a sealed and grounded metal box would shield the surroundings from spark generated RFI. The 'box' would need to be 'hermetically and electrically sealed', not easy with prop shaft an' all. One hole is enough and Whoops, all those nasty waves have escaped😡. But actually a Faraday Cage works the other way round! It's purpose is to protect people and 'things' inside the cage from outside influences such as high voltage discharge (e.g. lightning) or unwanted radio or other high energy waves by conducting them around the outer skin of the cage to ground. I sat in one during my years of development of mobile radio systems to try to make sure that my test measurements weren't being falsified by external influences. I also didn't want to ruin the tests and alignments my 'bods' were doing on the current production equipment just outside😉 I also had the pleasure 🤔 about 30 years ago of standing inside one at the Deutsches Museum while about a million volts was fired at it! Hair raising😲 but I'm still here to tell the tale😊 and bore the pants off you all😁 Happy suppressing all, cheers Doug 😎

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! It has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet. Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking! Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made. BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉 If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz. Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊 Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet. The spark energy density spectrum peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference. BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲 The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got! Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔 Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections. Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place! Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper?? These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲 If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how. I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation. Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation. Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage. Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed. BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊 Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊 Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy. Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC. Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse. Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔 Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from. Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭 Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse. Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board. Have fun, cheers Doug 😎

Devil in the detail! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks for the 'Like' Boatshed👍 In no way wanted to denigrate your advice, just put it in perspective for this kind of model. 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Cabin detail Pt 1 by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 11 days ago
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Guestbook Post by MouldBuilder Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I have been a member of the forum for just over a week. I have to say that the help given by members is without limits. I am so pleased that I found these people. They enjoy the hobby and have no problem in sharing their knowledge and experiences even when they are busy with their own projects. I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat many years ago and wanted to refurbish it. The changes in the hobby which have taken place in the twenty years since I built my boat have surprised me. My project has grown from just tidying up the deck to a complete replacement of the motor and control. I now know that I can continue with the improvements knowing that there is a freindly helping hand just a few clicks away. My thanks to you all, and in a few years time I hope to be able to help others.😊 Peter. Paignton, England.

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hallo Lee, attached is the Raboesch prop catalogue for reference. There are several 4 blade series with differing blade shapes. Most are available from various UK sources, including Cornwall Model Boats. Cheers Doug 😎

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by dragon Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
Thanks Doug I was looking for that email address and couldn't find it. Lee I hope you get your propellers.

Main Cabin Bondo'ed! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Main Cabin Deck has been bondo'ed! After I bondo'ed the seam on the main deck. Had to sand it down. Two hours later presto! A nice smooth main cabin deck! I wanted to make it even smoother. But I ran out of elbow grease! The main cabin deck is 25" long. Quite a big seam to sand. Had to take breaks! I Did like the karate kid. "Wax-on Wax-off!"