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Hi Alan, I, too, am building a Clyde Puffer. Mine is scratch built ,and same scale as yours. I have installed a 6:1 brushed electric motor. I wanted scale speed . The shaft length was 11" from memory. Interested in how you get on. Clyde puffers were lovely ships. Cheers Hugh
Thanks for your replies,which Ive passed on to my pal.He has now sourced the item he wanted,and also says thanks.Incidentally,he is a young lad,and does have internet access but he is new to boating,and just finding out about things. If we are mentioning ages,I am almost 72! Cheers Mick F
i have that same kit i bought just before my daughter was born in 1989. she is undergoing a "fleet rehab & maintenance" overhaul currently. actually the first true rc watercraft i started with, after a lifetime of building static models. that kit was of high quality, but has of course been discontinued some years ago. i transferred her from uscg lifesaving station manasquan inlet, new jersey, to uscg lifeboat station ludington, michigan, and changed the hull number from cg-44329 to cg-44345. i served in the uscg in nj, but always wanted to be stationed in ludington, mi. semper paratus!
HI WONDER IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME I AM LOOKING FOR THE VOSPER FIREFLOAT RTTL THAT KITSHACK USED TO SELL DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THIS KIT, I HAVE THE RAF CRASH TENDER BY LESRO, BUT I WANTED TO SEE IF I CAN GET THIS KIT RTTL, MANY THANKS, COLIN😎
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.
Great stuff Neil Good progress👍 You have come to some very similar conclusions as I have with my Southampton conversion! have just ordered NiMH drive and RX batteries as I realised that the P94 is not Lipo safe and has no BEC. So the BEC you mention for 'less critical items' would have to be an external SBEC or UBEC! Something else to find a corner for! Also I've long since junked my ancient NiMH drive packs anyway. I've also been considering changing the rudder servo, but not because I'm fiddling with the rudders, there's no point in wasting time with that as they will be motor assisted anyway. 😉 I simply have some smaller, but still powerful, ones to give more room for the battery. I was about to tell you to remove the heatsinks from the P94 when I read further down! I thought when I ordered them that 10 quid or so for a couple of chunks of alu ain't worth it when I've got sheets of it on the shelf😉 I also concluded that the only place for a decent drive battery is between the shafts; a) ya gotta be able to get it out for charging / exchange, b) I wanted to keep the extra weight nearer midships. Keep up the good work, cheers Doug 😎
the good news is, (I should have mentioned this earlier), the contributors here are generally experienced, and have done it themselves, so rest assured everything you get is proven, you just need to pick out what is best for you. Some other forums are not as lucky, as you get a lot of "do this, try this", you go out spending the dosh, and the "advisor" when challenged has not actually done it himself, its just a load of crap.😡 really annoys me that this happens, and sometimes people on model shops can be just as bad. A mate of mine took his sons "toy" boat to a local model shop last year. His son had outgrown it, my mate wanted to paint it, make it his own, and ditch the "toys r us" running gear. I didn't know he had done this, when I saw what had been done, the money charged, we marched back to the shop, I gave the "expert" the crap back, and got a refund. 2nd hand 27mg 2 channel rx with the aerial chopped to 6 inches, a 4x1.5 aa battery holder for main propulsion, and a really tired 2 channel acoms 27mg tx £75😡 I found out when he asked me why the lights don't work from the tx like my boats, he had asked for this, 2 channel set, hmm.... later that month, with a 7.2v nims and a dx6 with now 6 channels, less than £50, experts eh! I know there are good, but this shop or at least the guy working there wasn't one of them
Hi Norm, have seen nothing like that in any photo I have? Don't believe it was like that anyway, very impractical 🤔 Maybe it's just a fuzzy pic of the DF aerial. I also note that the DF aerial is not there on some photos. So; another case of 'you pays yer money and yer tales yer choice'! Yes, wire antenna only on the last three masts. There was nothing strung between the forward masts and the aft masts for four reasons: 1) the span is too long, 2) they would not want to roast the Island crew when transmitting Hi power HF from the starboard antenna in particular, 3) neither would they want to irradiate the ammo for the flak guns! 4) the forward masts were reserved for the vertical antennas. This gave the system the so called polarisation diversity; vertical is better for short range ground wave and the horizontal for filling in the 'skip zone' of vertical antennas. That is the gap of a few hundred miles between the short range ground wave and the long range sky waves. Bet you really wanted to know that didn't you?😉 Naval ship antenna layout design was part of my job for 30 years. Cheers Doug 😎 PS there would have been no halyards on the tilt-able masts. These are on the two fixed island masts, on the Signal Deck.
after a few attempts trying to master the CAD drawing malarky i think I finally got it to do what i wanted ,it was so much easier with a pair a of dividers , pencil and a ruler but alas the laser doesn't do old school .Very pleased with the results .👍
Aha! So he was one of the guys who clogged up the Richard Strauss tunnel on the Munich ring when I wanted to get to my bowling club evening !!! 😉 Happy CADing, it's not so bad once you've learned how to make it do what you want and not what IT thinks you want! Love your Stern-wheeler, can't wait to see her in action 👍 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi hisa1111, Welcome aboard 👍 East Northport!? Seem to remember looking for a house around there back in '86 when my company wanted to to send me to our US subsidiary/agent in Lake Success. Nice area, I liked Long Island a lot 😊 Especially Montauk Point and the restaurant shacks / cabins on the south coast, great fish and crab 😊 Expect it's changed a lot since then. Whole deal fell through unfortunately when I reported that the US company as it was then structured had no future so I stayed in Munich at the HQ. I was right, a few months after my return to Munich the US company president resigned and the company was closed down! Great shame. Anyway, happy modelling and welcome to the clan, cheers from Munich, Doug 😎
I wanted total motor control on my large, heavy twin screw harbour tug. The rudder is pretty useless serving only as a sort of trim tab so I went the simple route: Each (brushed) motor has its own ESC and independent power supply so left and right Tx sticks control their appropriate motor. By doing this I am able to have one full ahead, the other full astern, to turn on the proverbial sixpence or for slick docking alongside