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>> Home > Tags > water cooled

water cooled
motor cooler
cooling
interchangeable
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water jacket
water line
water proofing
water pump
waterline
waterproof
water cooled
S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by vortex Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Steve im not sure now regarding motors as they have water cooling cans on but Surfury runs from memory a 1075kva motor Turnigy 160 A speedo watercooled on 2x2s 5200 lipo`s in series ie 14.4volts with 52mm mocom Alum prop approx 3hp. I think the Tornado has approx 2045kva motor same speedo + lipo`s x 50mm nylon prop both do scale speed to as fast as 40/61 IC and look great on our choppy water with just prop and rudder in the water. Both motors will take 6s if you like ballistic? All gear from Hobby king. Try the IC first, post some pics please

Painted outside by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Finish painting and adding some stickers, and a couple of pictures of the real thing. Fitted Motor in a water cooled jacket and motor mount. The motor is a 3650 and is rated as 3060kv Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector Net Weight: 181g Servo fitted sideways via rubber bellows to external rudder fixed to transom.

Lifeboat plans by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Spitfires in this case are kneeler o/b powered vintage race boats. I thought I had 2 on the go, one for me and one for someone else, but I just found one! Oh well, one's enough. The dollies are needed to look like they're driving these things. They accept 1/6th scale dollies and I even have a suit of clothes bought off ebay for him! I bought an outboard motor from Hobbyking without fitted motor for bugger all, but now see that the same thing is £45 quid without brushless, which needs to be a 28mm watercooled inrunner. I'm going to need one of the those to fit the shaft and all that, but can only find one for 31 quid. It seems HK have been upping their prices lately! Do you have any reccomendations for where to get such an animal a little cheaper? I need the motor, I now realise, to build the dummy Godiva casing round it. It's supposed to be around 2300Kv, but the only ones HK have are more. Is that very important? Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
As reported elsewhere, I have today received the FlySky RC set and it works...perfectly.....straight outa the box as it's PRE-BOUND! And my dear bride has let me have it before my birthday. Although I still have to wait for the Crash Tender Yeoman fittings kit! I would like to use something old in the Crash Tender as it is old itself, so I guess I'd better have a look at your circuit diagrams Doug,as far as suppression and even ESCs are concerned. I have found 3 ESCs today. One I knew of and 2, WITH their instruction in best Chenglish that I had no memory of! Water -cooled too! I'll send you a photo of them. Cheers, Martin

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

Brushless motor selection by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi robhenry What volt battery are you running at present ?? 12 or 24 volts. If 24 volts those motors spec at 24,000rpm. Power is 511 Watts on 24 volts. 24,000 divide by 14.8(4S Lipo batteries) equal 1612 kv. So the closest motor would be 1700kv, eg water cooled 3660SL-1700kv which has a 5mm shaft and 44mm diameter with a length of 60mm( from Hobbyking). Power rated at 1800 Watts on 6S, so it would be lower than that. But if you are running 12 volts on the Graupner motor it would be about half the rpms. These brushless motors are far more powerful so check out the specs on the motors you are looking at !!! Canabus

Paint job by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Installed hardware used brushless 2860 4050kv motor with water-cooled mount and jacket, kept prop-shaft at a low angle. It drives really well to the extent that its too good to race so I have started again with another boat for racing.

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
If you see on my list above after the engine size if a D was noted its diesel and all these engines were for boat use and water cooled. However my father did make any parts needed so conversion to water cooling jacket on an engine was no problem if needed. Stephen.

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Ian, I thought all ED where compression ignition (diesel) so not sure what yours could be. I still have a seagull (1cc) hunter (2.5cc) and a sea otter (3.5cc) I believe that the sea otter was the only engine ED made specifically for use in boats (water cooled) because the flywheel was at the opposite end of the crank eliminating the need to thread your starter cord under your prop shaft and u.j. Norman.

It's a sad day!. by IanD Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Someone mentioned ED motors! My Dad's old Sea Commander had one before I converted it to electric, but I still have it (in a box on the wardrobe!) Can anybody tell me anything about it? It is marked as an ED MK4 with what looks like a serial number of 4G147. It is water cooled and has a variable throttle. I cant see how the ignition worked but it has a large tug-start fly/pully wheel on the drive shaft. Any info gratefully received. Ian

47" Fireboat power question by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I have a 47" classic Fireboat which I would like to use my G-60 500kv electric motor with a 6s Lipo battery and a 120 amp watercooled esc. I wondered if anyone could give me anyone idea of what prop size to start with experimenting to give best power anyone and endurance ? I am told the G-60 is the electric equivalent of a 10cc glow engine, so what size would go on that might be a start. Thanks in anticipation, Dave W 😊

Proboat Impulse 31 by Flack Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Used Proboat "Impulse 31" in good condition. Deep "V" ready to run speedboat capable of 45+mph 1750kv 4 pole water cooled brushless motor Dynamite 120amp water cooled electronic speed controller Flex shaft drive system Offset rudder set up Use with dual LiPO's with EC5 connectors (batteries not supplied) 2.4Ghz upgraded Spektrum DX4C transmitter and SR210 receiver. Length 31 inches (787mm) Beam 9 inches (229mm) Height 3.66 inches (93mm) £200 plus p&p

Brushless Programming Cards by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost £17 at the time , now £32 (4/2018) via Amazon

Interceptor by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g Interceptor Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2958 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown 200A (100Amps) ESC - Comments: Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval It was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown.

more progress. by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.