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>> Home > Tags > water cooled

water cooled
motor cooler
cooling
interchangeable
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water jacket
water line
water proofing
water pump
waterline
waterproof
water cooled
DPI Silencer (AKA The Tiddler) by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
For sale is my DPI kits built Silencer (renamed Tiddler) 25" length 8" Beam 12 volt watercooled brushed motor brushed Jeti 30a ESC + Rudder servo V Fast on 3s never tried a 4s though, anyone here brave enough ? Contact me on here or on 07958263772 (evenings please)

motors by pilot Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
hi last ditch effort before i take up knitting recap presedent huntsman 46 inch wooden kit hobbyking turnigy aquastar 408 4-1050kv water cooled brushless 160a water cooled esc thank you all for your help steve

Planking complete! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Twin Motor Perkassa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Scout13 I only have one battery connected at a time, with two batteries in situ I can use the other one when the first one is flagging,to give a longer running time, I could put them in Parallel but prefer to know I have a charged battery to use with an approx running time before it fails altogether. I have made a cover over the shaft coupling to prevent any cables coming into contact with it should they move, there is plenty of air space around this cover as well but the photo does not show it.Dave M the pond is weed free and the prop is the recommended one in the plans for the boat, as far as I am aware it is no larger dia. than the motor, but I will check that.As far as the weights I had to put lead in the front and mid section to get the boat down into the water as it was sitting on the hull and was not stable, I had some lead in the back as well as I used a spirit level when I was sorting it out in the bath, however when I first tried it in the pond the back end was too low in the water when it was going, so I took the heavier weight from the section just rear of the motor compartment and swapped it for the lighter weight just forward of the motor compartment, although this was better when tried again the stern was too low when it was moving so I removed the weights from the stern and as far as I could see it was just right, stationary the boat looked levelish but when moving on full throttle, the bow came up and had a nice bow wave with the stern down below the water level but with a (for want of the technical term) a hollow wave, when on a slower throttle it was fine and sailed nicely at all speed levels. What worries me is that the motor shown fitted in the boat was supposed to be the better motor than the photo of the one outside of the boat, would this benefit from a water cooled motor as to be honest I would not want to alter the top speed of the boat as it is just about right . just to let you all know I have a background knowledge of electrics so do know the difference between parallel and series voltages😊

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Andy Welcome to the site. There are many posts re building and fitting out Sea Queens on the site. You can search and browse. The boats in Harbour section will alsos give yousi details of the motor/prop/battery set up. I have an original Aerokits version and in my 48" Sea Queen I use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration.

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi. The HK controller is an Aquastar 120Amp water cooled which has suffered all of the burn outs and never failed. SKU: 9052000008. The failed motors were all 2848SL 3900kv Brushless Inrunner (WaterCooled) SKU:3900-2848SL. I have my doubts about the specifications as their watts and amps do not add up. I have a temperature sensor on the motor sending info back to the TX and usually after a full charge and a fast run it would get to 60°C, then I would cool it to 45°C before the next run it burnt out at 85°C when I wasn't paying attention. The new motor runs at about 45°C how ever hard it is pushed. Still using the 120A ESC. The new motor was in the HK sale and I don't think they do it now SKU:S2858-2630. It just happend that the water jacket for the failed unit fits it.

Balsa Boat 1970's made to Model Boat plans. by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Old boat of my fathers built from scratch in balsa wood, and fibre glassed inside. Use to run a small diesel engine, I took over it and initially put an Orbit 805 motor in then later a better spec model car motor 545/550 water cooled. Finally I swapped it for a 1.25cc glow engine and this video demonstrates the speed with the glow engine. Was almost too fast for the hull, tight turns caused it to nose dive, and plane/wobble badly on its side. Great fun and cheap to run.

Help! What's this? by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Before I restore and repaint this boat, I wonder if anyone can help me identify it. Picked it up yesterday at a boot sale from, I think, a German guy in his 30s, along with a Kyosho RC Car. The boat was covered in Bubu's Racing Team stickers and had a few Bartels GFK/CFK Technik of Oldenburg stickers. She is 18"/450mm, has a water cooled (Yokomo Keil?) DTM A-563 motor and a Hitec full mos fet sp-560 esc. Put in a new receiver and battery and she was up and running. She will be red and gold when repainted. Not much to look at but, probably, quite quick.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake. I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.

46" Fireboat - what engine(s)? by canabus Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Vapour I am going with a Hobbyking L5055C-700kv- 1600Watts, 100Amp ESC and a 2 blade CNC 52 mm 1.4 pitch prop. The ESC only goes to 4S, so I am thinking of ordering a water cooled 90A ESC which goes to 6S. At present it has a 3648-1450kv-1600Watt, 100Amp ESC with a 2 blade 40mm 1.4 pitch prop, but has not been in the water with this setup. As the boat had no gear in it at purchase and that's what I had in the spare bits box.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by lhpen Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Here's mine I built as per plan about 4 years ago. Name: "Merlin" Specs NiMH (7.2v) 4 Amp/h MTronics Viper Marine 15A Constant Motor: High speed Low drain 545 Type: Brushed Drive: Direct Drive Props: Single Propellor Type: 2 Blade X Type Size: 35mm Built from a Traplet plan In 2013. All wood construction, 545 direct drive motor water cooled with 2 blade prop. 2x 3.7amp 7.2 volt NiMhd batteries and a Mtronics Viper Marine 15amp speed controller.

Model Engineer 17th Jan 1952 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
I promised to share some articles and photos from the Model Engineer magazines I picked up recently but I've been distracted by the Meccano Dolphin 16 which on a whim decided to build from scratch. It's coming along nicely but I am certainly very rusty and the eyesight could be better. However, here's a Lady with a 2ft beam, Miss EEDEE. She is 5 ft long 2ft beam and 70lbs. In the early 50s she was claimed to be the first radio control boat to cross the channel. She was powered by a 4.5cc watercooled engine from Electronic Developments Surrey Ltd. I have left the adverts alongside it to show how far we have come in the last 60 odd years....... or have we?

Battery problems by Patto Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 months ago
BIG MISTAKE I brought a 5300mha -50c-14.8v-4s1p-78wh LiPo battery yesterday. Bloke in hobby shop checked my ESC which is a TURNIGY AQUASTAR Watercooled ESC 160A. and said that it could handle that size battery. Giving the boat a test run this morning the ESC erupted in a huge cloud of black smoke. Not happy Jan will be ringing the hobby shop in the morning. Allan