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>> Home > Tags > water jacket

water jacket
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water cooled
water line
water proofing
water pump
waterline
waterproof
water jacket
It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
If you see on my list above after the engine size if a D was noted its diesel and all these engines were for boat use and water cooled. However my father did make any parts needed so conversion to water cooling jacket on an engine was no problem if needed. Stephen.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for your advice. Guess am stuck with the water jacket style now, will see how they work. Was intrigued by these rubber ones though, they have an internal scroll which defines the water path. Rather like a coil. Intend to make the small ESC wire mods you and Doug recommend. Thanks

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

Interceptor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g Interceptor Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2958 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown 200A (100Amps) ESC - Comments: Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval It was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
I looked at the Cornwall model site and saw that, what i have decided to do is to leave the two Ni cad batteries in situ and I have weighed the rear/mid section lead weight and it is just 56 grams heavier than the 12 volt 7 amp/h lead acid alarm battery so I will use the 12 volt battery and ditch the lead, the weight of the boat will be the same, I also trimmed the lead at the front end so the bow will come up a fraction more. I have taken the prop of and measured it to be a 55mm, so I am going to fit the water intake, hopefully with some advice from the forum "techys"as to the position, in the photos this is where I can fit it so it is out of the way of the rudder and prop.what do you reckon, I can then get a suitable motor with a water jacket which will be happy to run on 12 volt with enough power not to get hot turning a 45 to 50 mm two blade "x" prop, as suggested by pmdevlin, I may get the Lloydsman up and running as all that needs is dusting of and batteries charging up, (two 12 volt 7amp/h in parallel) and the receiver from the commander fitted although I have not floated it I bought it as a complete working model in 2015, so it is about time it came out of dry dock, also I can look to repairing the rigging and finishing the Odessy Yacht I bought at the same time as the Llyodsman also in dry dock.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Thank you gents, I will get a bigger motor and reduce the prop size as I do not want it any faster than it is, also a smaller prop as everyone has said will reduce the power drained from the battery, I have a water scoop and tubing so will be fitting that today and will fit a water jacket around the motor, also I am thinking weighing the lead weight fitted in the compartment behind the motor and replace some or all of it and fit a 12 volt 7 amph sealed lead acid battery, presumably this will last longer than the present batteries fitted, or will it?

Unbekannte Flitze. A very flighty girl by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Allen and Doug I see that you both do not sail with or belong to a model boat sailing club so are sailing mainly on your own. Most model boat clubs will have completed a risk assessment and produced guidance and club rules to protect both the members and public. If the waters are Council owned this can be quite a task and can result in permission being removed if not followed. Waters are not easily found and can be lost because of the actions of one individual. Whilst I can sympathise with the desire to recover a sinking/stopped or sunken model there are ways to do this safely. We have an RC rescue boat but I have also used long poles and fishing rods with lines. We also have waders to allow recovery from near the bank under trees etc as well as a boat and life jackets, if necessary, but not I suggest without having help on shore in case of difficulties. You are of course entitled to risk your own life but this is a hobby for me and I suspect many of our members and I prefer to avoid unnecessary life threatening risks. Dave

Red Cat hydroplane by SimpleSailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi. The HK controller is an Aquastar 120Amp water cooled which has suffered all of the burn outs and never failed. SKU: 9052000008. The failed motors were all 2848SL 3900kv Brushless Inrunner (WaterCooled) SKU:3900-2848SL. I have my doubts about the specifications as their watts and amps do not add up. I have a temperature sensor on the motor sending info back to the TX and usually after a full charge and a fast run it would get to 60°C, then I would cool it to 45°C before the next run it burnt out at 85°C when I wasn't paying attention. The new motor runs at about 45°C how ever hard it is pushed. Still using the 120A ESC. The new motor was in the HK sale and I don't think they do it now SKU:S2858-2630. It just happend that the water jacket for the failed unit fits it.

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Here's another I prepared earlier, I found the file for it on Thingiverse, unfortunately the file made a boat 300mm long, so I printed all the parts at 200% size👍 I've got all the running gear for it now except for the water jacket for the brushless motor, come on China, get your finger out! Cheers Wayne

Battery problems by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Allan If you had water cooling and it was provided by your pump then it would seem the prop was far to coarse a pitch for you fast motor and very powerful battery which was quite capable of delivering well over 200 amps through the 160 amp ESC. Your comment re the power delivered rather confirms this, and holding a model at full speed to test is only possible for about 5-10 secs max. You need to get a much smaller and less coarse pitch 3 blade prop plus a wattmeter to measure the current to make sure you are no where near the max ESC current. Personal experience suggests this should be less than half the rated Max so say 70 amps for your ESC. Testing should be brief and stopped immediately if the current being taken is above 20-30 amps. Smaller props will reduce the current to an acceptable level and your model will go faster and for longer. As a guide 14 volts at 70 amps will be using 980 watts so you will perhaps appreciate why cooling is necessary. Also at such high currents the wiring from battery to ESC then motor will need to be capable of carrying such high currents. As there are three wires to the motor and the power is pulsed at high frequency they are usually not as heavy as the battery to ESC. Your battery to ESC connectors also need to be capable of high current such as Deans, Euro or bullet type. Having looked on U-tube it does appear that others have had similar experiences with this ESC. The specs say it is capable of running at 14.4 volts so when you buy a replacement I would ask your local store to run your motor with the ESC and your battery to ensure it works OK. If they have a wattmeter ask them to test the open current then also buy the wattmeter and a smaller 3 blade prop of slightly less diameter than that of the motor without the water jacket. Do a final brief test at home holding the model and see briefly what the wattmeter reads, this will be near the max current draw. If it's too high you need a smaller prop. There are several Perkassa builds on the site and some use brushless with success. If you search you will find details of their power train which may help you choose the best set up. I do hope you will soon have your model speeding round your lake. Dave

Battery problems by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
PS Allan, there are several water jackets / spiral tubing available for cooling brushed motors, try Hobby King, or just get some alu and silicon tubing and make your own. Apply some heat conducting paste between the jacket or tubing and the motor casing (as used in the electronics industry for mounting power transistors, processor chips etc) available in tubes also in model shop site for a few dollars. Good luck