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>> Home > Tags > water line

water line
speedline
waterline
hmafv stirling
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water proofing
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waterproof
water line
Layout and Limitations (con) by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 4 hours ago
Hello folks. Exciters not wired yet. I cannot see any markings on them to indicate which way to do it. RN is coming to my aid............ Battery fits there OK and for getting in and out, but may be a little heavy. The Boat in the bath does not show the waterline than well. Yes I do hope to have the Radar rotating and such a power units should be on its way. Re circuit board, I will look at that with your prompts in my hand and see how I fair. As you indicate, I would like to retain such as the present lighting, but do away with the receiver part. Cheers NPJ

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Brixham trawler IBEX by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.

MV San Demetrio by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 32" MV San Demetrio - Comments: Model was built waterline to 1/192 scale as wedding present for daughter. Now has pride of place atop piano.

MV San Demetrio by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 32" MV San Demetrio - Comments: Model was built waterline at 1/192 scale as a wedding present for my daughter. Now pride of place on piano in Buckingham.

progress by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi. Looking good. Are you happy that you won't get any water ingress? It looks like the tightening screw will be below the waterline. Edward

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Not much room. I suggest you investigate light weight battery possibilities, but whatever you choose on no account consider charging in the hull, ever! The motors are probably lowish current but the smoker will be a big drain on the battery, do you really want this feature? Modern tugs in our environmentally friendly times do not normally emit smoke. The electronics are where you have identified. When you receive the exciters I suspect there is only one spot where the gap between supports is wide enough. For this to work the whole hull acts as the resonator and I am not sure what effect all those supports may have. When I was testing I just placed the exciters against the inside of my hull and tried different positions. You could try using the outside of your hull to see how it sounds. As regards depth you have not shown the marked waterline.... if you are referring to yourself I detect a willingness to 'boldly go'' so no. Perhaps best to hold back from Warp speed for now though!

Removing The Deck by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi With my sailing pilot cutter Cariad, when the hull was largely complete I put her in the bath an put weights in until the waterline was reached. I then weighed the weights. I then tried to make the bulb keel slightly lighter to allow for trimming. I would make provision for the bulb keel at an early stage of construction. I didn't do this and it was a right pain! Good luck Edward

Brixham trawler IBEX by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi bellman, (from Doug BELL😉) This is another 'How long is a piece of string question'! Only way to find out is to build it, and do a payload test. Put weight in it until it floats to the waterline and upright and stable. I use chunks of lead and lead balls (fishing weights). Weigh the lead. Easiest way is to weigh the empty hull first, then again with 'payload'. Difference is your payload weight for the hull, including all equipment, decks, superstructure etc. Before you glue any other parts to the hull weigh them and subtract from the payload test weight as you go. When compete you should then know how much weight you have left available for equipment. Weigh the equipment; motors, shafts, electronics, batteries etc. Anything 'left over' is the ballast you need. Try to fit it inside as low as possible, the lead balls are good for final trimming. When all is correct simply pour a little resin over them to hold them in place. Only time I fitted ballast outside, a long steel bar keel, was on my U26 sub. But then U Boats had such an emergency 'drop keel' so it looked 'Right'! Happy building, Doug 😎

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Well Dave they said this is what I needed....Dayton Audio DAEX25VT-4 so I have a pair on the way. May well try the usual speaker anyway as part of the project. The folks at Sound Imports were very helpful. I was concerned about space above the waterline, but lets see when they come. All the best NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Neil I used initially DAEX25 sold as a pair as they didn't have DAEX25FHE-4 in stock. I am now using the latter as it suits my amp and I have room inside the Trent hull above the waterline. For your small model you probably need a smaller exciter, if indeed you can fit one at all. I believe Doug has already explained about getting the correct impedance. I initially tried ordering from the States but their shipping costs were about £30 hence the Dutch company.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Removing the Deck............ Should have said before, note when removing these screws they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes and putting them in a lidded container. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks, it requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pic 8. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 11.(not got the hang of this yet!) What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pics 9/10. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Thank you for that Doug. I was assuming transducers above waterline for transmission. That is quite a restriction on this model. I need to do all my posting on the Build Blogg from now. All the best. NPJ

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
No not yet thought it through Doug. Huge speaker with the unit... and weighty. Glad about the transponders! I imaging they should be in the hull/decking and above the waterline? Trying to read about about boat balance and how they sit in the water. Assuming keeping battery as low as possible is best. Will have to be fore and aft if it is to be removed through the rear hatch. Have not broken into the Bridge/wheelhouse yet to see whats there................. Is once a week OK for the build blog? All the best. NPJ