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>> Home > Tags > water line

water line
hmafv stirling
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water proofing
water pump
water line
First post... by Midlife306 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Been busy this weekend, managed to get all the bulkheads finished off & I've finally glued all the structure together🤓👍 More strengthening to be added this week & I'll try & tidy up the glued joints. I'm still trying to work out how I can easily remove the engine cover yet still remain watertight but not fly off at speed. I've got a few ideas involving lots of magnets & a remotely operated latch, I've made a start by glueing a flange along the outside of the main frame. For my plan to work, I'll need to add a half bulkhead in between the air intake & the first bulkhead & another butting up against the the last bulkhead before the transom, they will be the split lines. I'll then have to find a way to strengthen up the removable section so I can cut it free. I'll. keep you posted. Cheers Wayne

Battery problems by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Allan Was the boat in the water or on the bench? There are several posts online indicating that you cannot run this ESC without water cooling. You did say you needed a separate water cool motor. Is it possible the motor or ESC water jackets were blocked? Hope you can find a solution Dave

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
I have been messing about making the rough shape of an outboard engine for the fantastic plastic rhib I have started. I am now thinking rather than make the bottom section of the balsa wood motor I would use the whole motor as the rudder. The bottom section would be the rudder the middle and top section would be seen above the water line. I may be able to fit a servo to one side or the other inside the Splash well and connect the servo to the front of the motor engine housing. That way I will Not have to fit an additional rudder . The rudder will not be seen when the rhib is in the water but the engine will swivel from side to side as the rudder is moved via the servo. Any better ideas ?

HMS Illustrious Aircraft carrier by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
I am building a waterline model of HMS Illustrious, from WW2. I have virtually no information about the port side of the island. Does anyone have photos taken across the flight deck?

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Pic 1 shows the drop keel & rudder extended. The carrying handle will hold it up until in the water. The stand doing the same when on display. Pic 2 the sail arm servo & the plastic tubes for control lines.

Recovery vessel by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Kevin There have been several suggested methods over the years. My own club had a device using plastic 1.5" (approx) water pipe covered in foam heating insulation. Basically two joined rectangles with open ends. The recovery tug steers into one side and moves to the stopped vessel which it collects in the other open rectangle and returns to shore. I have also seen a tug with two pivoting extended arms on the bow controlled by a servo. The arms are closed about the stricken vessel which is then towed back to shore. The fast racers often have a boat with some fine cord attached and anchored to the shore. The boat goes out to and circles the stranded vessel then returns to shore. The stranded boat can then be pulled back to shore. I have been experimenting with neodium magnets embedded in the hull with more magnets embedded in the rescue boat hull which carries line anchored to the shore. This should enable both models to be recovered in the event that the stranded vessel is snagged in some way. I'm sure other will have their own solutions and will hopefully share. Dave

Cockpit deck brass features. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The aft cockpit deck has two drain holes on the real boat that discharge through a pair of outlets on the transom if the boat takes on any water in the cockpit well. On my model the drains are not connected to the outlets, that’s taking the scale accuracy a bit too far 😜, nevertheless I don’t want a couple of holes in my deck letting in water so I need to fill them in with some drain gratings. I made these from some 10mm thick wall brass tubing and some 2mm brass rod. First I filed three narrow slots into the end of the brass tube about half the thickness of the brass rod and soft soldered them into the slots. The rod was then filed flush to the top of the tube to flatten the profile and form the grating slots, and the overhang filed flush with the tube sides. I used a pipe cutter to separate the finished piece from the brass tube and then repeated the process for the second fitting. The grating needs to be blocked so that It doesn’t let water through and I did this by forming a disc out of black plasticard the same diameter as the tube bore as a stopper and filling the base with epoxy to form the seal, the finished drains were then glued into the deck panel flush with the planking. I used some 1.5mm brass rod bent and fashioned to form the handles for the hatches and these were fixed with epoxy through holes in the panel. Another brass feature on the deck are the rivets around the battery hatch, these are actually some domed rivets with a 2mm head and 1mm shaft that I bought online from RB Models (Poland) along with some other excellent items from their range of ships fittings. Finally the deck panel and main hatch cover were sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer. The panel will need some further work to incorporate the towing hook stays and I’ll cover that in another posting.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 26 days ago
R.I.B completed, adding about another 1 oz to the vessel weight, also added the 4.5 oz as permanent ballast. Total model weight is now 156 oz. On review of many HMCC “Vigilant” pictures, note the top of the boot-topping can be almost coincident with the waterline. Decided the slight extra weight , beyond the 4.5 oz originally tried, will help raise the bow and have little effect on the stern draft, so left it as is. Sailed again in the portable pool and now consider the trim acceptable. The boot topping is visible for the full length of the hull; she sits very much like the full size vessel. Once the ice to leaves our local pond will see how well she performs in open water and what the run time will be. Have tried several approaches to making a R.I.B launch / recovery mechanism, but with little success. Seem to be able to either launch or recover using a single radio channel, but not both. Now decided to shelve this feature until inspiration strikes!

Ketch Irene by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Irene still sailing but very much altered, as she burnt down to the water line. My model will be as in 1930s. Built 1909 in Bridgwater, my home town, that is the inspiration. I have a few photos, a rough drawing & her measurements. I sometimes draw my own plans or as this time work from the drawing & photos. I am using a two sided home made scale rule, red for drawing & black on other side for model.

dicky motor by jtdavid Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
hi, it sounds like you have the receiver to low in your boat, try lifting it higher up above the water line if possible. as I said before submarines don't work very well on 2.4 ghz because they work below water level try it and let us no if it works. its a common problem with 2.4ghz unless you put receiver above water line. a few people I have spoken to have gone back to 27mhz or 40mhz. also you will notice the antenna is only short try putting this above as well. david

Lacquering the hull. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Now that the self-adhesive vinyl lettering and hull markings are now applied and correctly positioned…😉 I can now spray the lacquer finish on the hull. The gloss black areas will have a number of coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas finished in Halfords clear satin lacquer. I started with the gloss lacquer first, so the all the deck area and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas were masked. As I wanted the white waterline to be sealed with the gloss finish I masked below the line. After a thorough wipe over with some panel wipe the first coat of gloss was sprayed followed by a further two coats at 30 minute intervals. Fortunately it all went on without any runs or blemishes so I left it for a week to thoroughly harden after removing the masking. The black area was then masked from the bottom of the waterline, the area cleaned with panel wipe and sprayed with three coats of Halfords clear satin lacquer. With all the masking removed the boat was them put aside and left for a week for everything to dry thoroughly and then I polished the black area with some ‘T-cut’ polish to remove any surface blemishes and bring it to a full shine. All the hull marking and lettering are now firmly fixed and sealed and I’m very pleased with the final results. The next job will be to spray the deck and superstructure with the BS631 RAF Light Grey and then the majority of the paint process will be complete 😁

dicky motor by jtdavid Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
hi, what type of transmitter are you using eg, 40mhz, 27 MHz, our 2.4ghz. you can find that 2.4mhz, if the receiver is below the water line reception can be very poor, i no the submarine guys can only use 27mhz because they go below the water. let us no your set up it makes helping you a lot easyer👍 david

Suspected Seam by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Ok, I have found a suspected leaky seam, But i'm not sure if this is where the water is coming in from yet! I do know this seam is below the waterline! going to have to seal it some how! What procedure should I use any advice is welcomed...

Sad News by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mark, The rudder tubes are well above the water line! But I'll check them out. And the prop shafts were greest properly But i will recheck! I think I'm going to have to look at all the seams! Thanks for the advice, 👍 Hi Dave, The glue i used was Zap-a-Gap, also so Z-Poxy for the wood structure! I'm going to go over the hull and see if I can trace the leak! I suspect a seam that's on the bottom of the hull. That's where I felt the leak when I picked up the hull. But who know exactly where the water is coming from. I'll keep you posted, Thanks for your input really appreciate it 👍 Ed PS. I'm looking into the UHU Plus Acrylit!