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>> Home > Tags > water line

water line
hmafv stirling
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water proofing
water pump
water line
On the water Corvett by CB90 Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
Realigned motor to shaft painted hull add waterline and ballast and K40 runs well on 7.2 to 12v A nice model to have a good size and attractive on window sill.

Crash Tender davit info... by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I have done some more digging and I hope this confirms the colour scheme for the boat. please see the reply I received from:- Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN Hello, Colour scheme for the above boat is as follows. Black topsides, red oxide anti-fouled bottom separated by a 2in white waterline. All decks dark grey anti-slip deck paint, cabin sides light grey, cabin roofs white anti-slip deck paint. Mast-white, monitors red, crash ladder and davit silver/aluminium. An RAF roundel is centred 5ft 4in back from stem and 2ft 1.5in above mean waterline. The centre red disc 4in Dia., middle white circle 8in Dia., and the outer blue circle 12in Dia. The bottom of the white bow numbers should be 2ft 7in above mean waterline. They are 9in high by 6in wide with a 1.5in stroke width and a 2in separation between each number. The forward end of numbers 3 or 4 on the starboard side is 12in back from the outside of the roundel (Port side similar). The main FIRE letters are 2ft 6in high by 2ft wide with a stroke width of 6in and a separation of 6in between letters. The base of the letters is 7.5in above mean waterline. Transom numbers are 10in high by 8in wide and a stroke width of 1.5in and a separation on 2in. Base of numbers to be 1ft 5in above mean waterline. Draft marks are 3in high with a 0.5in stroke. I hope this meets with your requirements. Yours faithfully Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN.

After fibreglass and primer coat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Ron, mark the 'real' waterline, the LWL (Load Waterline) as on your plan. Then load the boat (in the domestic Test Tank😉) down to that line then you know what she can carry, including any missing deck and superstructure of course! See test I just did for my fish cutter 'Gina 2'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: seal and prime the hull when you wish, I do final finishing / polishing when all major internal works are done, and especially after prop shaft tubes and rudder stock are fitted and 'fettled in'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Applies just as well to renovations and new builds! BUT more power to your elbow for scratch building 👍

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Couldn't wait! (curiosity killed the cat!) although it IS now 'tomorrow' here! Load test results: Taycol motor 235gm, lead ballast 965gm, total 1.2Kgm, and still plenty of free board to the projected waterline 😊 An' she ain't sunk yet! 😁😁 so shouldn't have any problems fitting her out, at least not what weight concerns. Space is another question 😲 'Nothing is impossible' so they say 😉 (Please don't mention Titanic😲) Tomorrow (or later today🤔) is another day or what? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

After fibreglass and primer coat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
So, the hull has been fibreglassed, and several coats of primer applied. What next? Mark the water line as seen on the PDF and photographs? OR Place model in water, load up with approximately the weight of servos, batteries, and other building materials? Paint exterior hull or wait till interior servos are mounted? Scratch building questions...

What do you do when... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I do think the rescue dinghy is the best idea, but of course that is a club thing, organisationally and financially. I guess the OP wants to assure himself he can rescue his own boat with something suitable when it's only him on the water. Fair enough. A tug is a nice idea IF you can get a tow line aboard the stricken vessel, so I suppose the all embracing lobster claw style has potential. A floating Brabham BT 34 comes to mind. Cheers, Martin

Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Both, Pete, you're right about the hatch, in the instructions (or mine at least with the old 40MHz version) they warn you to leave the hatch loose when not using the boat. Otherwise it sticks to the foam gasket. Just like yours did 😉 During the upgrade of my 40MHz Southampton I will remove that over-engineered catch and use neodymium magnets in the corners instead. That gives more 'headroom' to fit a decent sized NiMh battery underneath 😊 And yes there are 3 different versions of this boat, whereby Richardson and Southampton are identical apart from name and 'paint job'. 27 and 40 MHz with no frills and the modern 2.4GHz version with bells and whistles. Well, lights and smoke anyway 😊 Makes a change from Smoke and Mirrors eh? 😁 So between the 3 of us we represent all 3 generations!!! According to my manual the foam is there to absorb moisture that might ingress through stuffing tubes or hatches so full marks to Pete 👍 Re different RC frequencies, as a ex Radio and naval COMMS engineer: 27MHz and 40MHz have inherently longer range and better water penetration, which is why I still have such sets for my submarines. 2.4GHz is strictly Line of Sight only, which is one reason why they first gained popularity with the 'Fly Boys'. 2.4Gig waves also bounce off water or are absorbed by it, so it's useless for subs😭 The other reason is that they use a frequency hopping (FH) technique which makes them virtually immune to interference 😊 Although I have yet to find a set that hops over the full 85 frequencies available. Most seem to only use 16 or so🤔 Limited bandwidth at the RX !? As with all FH radio systems 2.4Gig RC sets also use a binding technique so that the RX recognises the 'signature', i.e- hop sequence, of it's own TX and ignores others. Mostly anyway 😉 Here endeth the 99th Epistle of Admiral Doug 😁 Main thing is, enjoy the 'fiddlin aboot' and even more so the sailing, as my German colleagues say; "I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel". Cheers Doug 😎

What Li-po? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Yngvegr, basically I agree with Flack👍 But if you want to go step by step and test it with the 540s first (will give you a Datum to compare with brushless at a later stage) then- Brushed have no problem with LiPos, or any other battery chemistry for that matter😉 For the voltage anything from 6 to 12V is fine for the 540. I have two 540s in my 135cm destroyer and she ran just fine on a 6VSLA, with a relay to switch a second one in series for 'All Ahead Emergency'! Higher capacity brings not only more sailing time but also more weight! Suggest you weigh the existing batteries and check the waterline and trim in the 'domestic test tank' before you buy the biggest batts you can find😉 If you do go LiPo don't forget to buy an appropriate charger and a Capacity Tester as well!!! Whatever you do, have fun doing it, cheers Doug 😎

Tamiya Tape! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The Tamiya tape is great stuff to work with.I use it all the time. Just make sure you keep a constant pressure on it.Don't pull on it too hard.It does take curves depending on the width of the tape. Enjoy marking your waterline.

Tamiya Tape! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well the Tamiya Tape arrived! Now I can go ahead and fix the waterline on the Brooklyn! There's some over spray I have to tidy up. Once I'm done with that. on to the Deck and Deck hardware!

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin

Tamiya Tape! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I've placed an order for some Tamiya tape. As Doug, RNinMunich recommended! Trying to cleanup the waterline on the Brooklyn! Oh, Had to order a new battery pack. for my wireless Dremel also! Does anyone know of a good electronics place one can order resisters from?

Finally a Waterline! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Go for it Ed 👍 BTW: recommend Tamiya modelling masking tape to avoid bleeding. Gives a good sharp edge.

Finally a Waterline! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have used white pinstriping before.Plus I have used other colours too.Make sure to stick it down good.I first used my fingers then after the tape is on to my liking I used a burnishing stick.One thing I forgot to mention is start your tape at the halfway point on the stern then go around the bow and meet back at the stern.The pinstriping I have used is either the car striping or the one that is used for the model airplanes.