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>> Home > Tags > water line

water line
hmafv stirling
36 rater model yacht
ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water proofing
water pump
water line
Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.

K91 8 Rater by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Your keel shape is a bit longer but very similar Here is some info I have gleaned. Full scale 8 Metre boats - meaning 8 metres at the waterline - go back to around 1907 and they proved extremely popular with around 140 being built around Europe during the first seven years alone. It was a time of very rapid boat development and equally rapid evolution of class rules. At one stage 'Metre Boats' were allowed one foot of beam for every metre of waterline length, a possibly unique combination of metric and imperial in an International Rule. Current 8M boats derive from a model obtained 5-10 years ago by Robin Edgar and Alan Woodroffe of the Southwater Dabblers MBC who thought it was based on a J-Class. However, it was later found that what they had was a model of a Fife 8 Metre instead. In any event, the boat remained of great interest because the hull shape and relatively low draught makes it an excellent choice for shallow waters and especially for ponds with bad weed. They used the model to create some 50+ hulls. Can you tell me more about your mini 12

100ft. to the inch Waterline Liners by billyoung Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 days ago
I am also attempting to replicate the excellent miniature Bassett Lowke waterline models to help fill in existing collections and maybe start new ones for others. I have been working so far with Honduras Mahogany and aircraft plywood supplemented with brass fitments. I am doing Olympic and Titanic so far but I am not satisfied yet.

Prop Shaft Grease by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube. Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years. I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. In most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts. Choose what ever you are happy with.

huntsman 46 by canabus Admiral   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Pilot If you are using 540 can size (35-36mm brushless motor) a 3639-1100kv 800watts, 3648-1450 1600watts or a XK 3674-1900 1769 watts. All run on 100Amp ESCs, but check the maximum voltage they handle. I use car ESCs with the electric fan on top because they run cooler at slow speeds and no water plumbing required. The same with the motors no cooling. Props for these motors 37mm 2 blade or 40-45 mm 2 blade. If you go for a larger motor for a larger prop, a L5055-700kv 1600watts same ESC, but, start with a 2 blade prop about 52mm. Battery a 3-6S 5800mah or more with a C rating of 40 plus. I have used the 35mm motors in 34 to 40" boats, but, for my 46" Vosper Crash Tender I am going to the 5055. To large a prop will cause over heating of the ESC, battery and Motor. A in line amp meter(Hobbyking 9598000004-0) is the one in use. It reads the maximum amps, so for run speed amps slow speed up to maximum as a hit the throttle hard will give you maximum amps. Canabus

'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Truly captures the look of the real model. The detail is very good and it is a credit to Paul that the model actually sails with all the cabin etc detail above the waterline, the sign of a real master of his craft.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a supply of sheet lead that I cut and use. Would look the same as the lead shot in your pic but you won't need much. I ballasted mine with all the gear in the hull before the deck was added, got it all working then fitted the deck etc. I left it slightly high on the waterline to allow for the top bits. Modern rc gear is now easily available in small form and even the batteries can be sourced in small sizes. I used AA pencells in the model and it sailed for well over an hour, The ESC had a BEC, my own design so shrink wrapped to keep the weight down.

Floatation and ballast check!-tick! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
So, she has this morning sat in the bath fir an hour whilst I walked pooch! I half expected to come home to find it sunk into the depths beyond reach, but joy of joy, floating and more importantly bone dry inside! I’ve had to add about 2lb of lead up front to get the latteral balance right, but apart from that sitting on the waterline and no Listing either. I’m happy that there is enough weight at the bottom, tried to tip her over but it was having none of it! Next stop the lake next week with some on the water photos and videos!

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.

HMS Dreadnought by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Haven't decided yet, but probably waterline, as I have enough active ships in my fleet. May build her full hull regardless, and decide later. Machinery can always be installed late in the build.

HMS Dreadnought by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice choice - will she be sailing or waterline?

HMS Illustrious by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 48" HMS Illustrious - Comments: Waterline model to scale 1/192. Model is really a hybrid of the ship during her commissioned lifetime (1939 - 1956). She served mainly in Mediterranean and Far East. Seriously damaged on several occasions, resulting in numerous modifications, which is why I had so many problems settling on a model true to any one date.

Back in the hot tub! by Ballast Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi GrahamP74. Sorry but I have just seen your pics of the boat in the hot tub. I hope you don't mind if I make an observation but I think she rides a little high in the water at the stern ! Cygnus always advise that the lowest part of the transom should be about 25/26cms below the water at the lowest point which in 1/12 scale terms is 2.5cms. How much ballast have you got in her and where? I have attached a photo of mine for your info also one of the real deal to demonstrate what I mean. I have a 4lb divers belt weight in mine in the stern over where the prop shaft exits the hull and two six volt batteries amidships which weigh 4lbs each = total ballast 12lbs. You look to have the same amount of deck clutter so that is about what I would be putting in yours. As I say, it's just an observation but if you have a look at any Cygnus boat in any harbour that seems be the rule of thumb. Hope you don't mind me picking up on this. Alan. Ps the bow looks just a tad high above the waterline as well.

Hull painting started by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Have given the hull a few coats of hull red (Halfords red primer is close enough!). Have also added the red trim line at the top of the hull, most of which will disapear once the black rubbing strake is in place and its been masked off for the blue. Will leave this to fully harden overnight before I start masking for the blue band. I am planning on having a straight water line between the red hull and the blue with a white trimline strip to seperate them. I could mask and spray the white trim line, but using a vinyl trimline which I use alot of in RC aircraft will give a much neater finish. So, once the blue has been applied, I will give the whole hull a light coat of laquer and will then add the trimline, "Douglas Currie" gold lettering and RNLI flags before a final couple of coats of laquer to seal it all in.

Progress on the hull - At Last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎