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>> Home > Tags > waterline

ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water line
water proofing
water pump
K91 8 Rater by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Your keel shape is a bit longer but very similar Here is some info I have gleaned. Full scale 8 Metre boats - meaning 8 metres at the waterline - go back to around 1907 and they proved extremely popular with around 140 being built around Europe during the first seven years alone. It was a time of very rapid boat development and equally rapid evolution of class rules. At one stage 'Metre Boats' were allowed one foot of beam for every metre of waterline length, a possibly unique combination of metric and imperial in an International Rule. Current 8M boats derive from a model obtained 5-10 years ago by Robin Edgar and Alan Woodroffe of the Southwater Dabblers MBC who thought it was based on a J-Class. However, it was later found that what they had was a model of a Fife 8 Metre instead. In any event, the boat remained of great interest because the hull shape and relatively low draught makes it an excellent choice for shallow waters and especially for ponds with bad weed. They used the model to create some 50+ hulls. Can you tell me more about your mini 12

Imara by Banchang-modeller Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi there, a good looking boat, well done. I also have an Imara which I am currently outfitting the motors (Caldercraft CEM 900T) and electrics, but need advice on the amount of ballast required to get it the correct waterline What was the total weight of the ballast you used? Many Thanks..........Richard

100ft. to the inch Waterline Liners by billyoung Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
I am also attempting to replicate the excellent miniature Bassett Lowke waterline models to help fill in existing collections and maybe start new ones for others. I have been working so far with Honduras Mahogany and aircraft plywood supplemented with brass fitments. I am doing Olympic and Titanic so far but I am not satisfied yet.

Prop Shaft Grease by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube. Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years. I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. In most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts. Choose what ever you are happy with.

'VOYAGER of the SEAS' RC Cruise Ship by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Truly captures the look of the real model. The detail is very good and it is a credit to Paul that the model actually sails with all the cabin etc detail above the waterline, the sign of a real master of his craft.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
I have a supply of sheet lead that I cut and use. Would look the same as the lead shot in your pic but you won't need much. I ballasted mine with all the gear in the hull before the deck was added, got it all working then fitted the deck etc. I left it slightly high on the waterline to allow for the top bits. Modern rc gear is now easily available in small form and even the batteries can be sourced in small sizes. I used AA pencells in the model and it sailed for well over an hour, The ESC had a BEC, my own design so shrink wrapped to keep the weight down.

Floatation and ballast check!-tick! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
So, she has this morning sat in the bath fir an hour whilst I walked pooch! I half expected to come home to find it sunk into the depths beyond reach, but joy of joy, floating and more importantly bone dry inside! I’ve had to add about 2lb of lead up front to get the latteral balance right, but apart from that sitting on the waterline and no Listing either. I’m happy that there is enough weight at the bottom, tried to tip her over but it was having none of it! Next stop the lake next week with some on the water photos and videos!

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.

HMS Dreadnought by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Haven't decided yet, but probably waterline, as I have enough active ships in my fleet. May build her full hull regardless, and decide later. Machinery can always be installed late in the build.

HMS Dreadnought by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice choice - will she be sailing or waterline?

HMS Illustrious by Gdaynorm Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 48" HMS Illustrious - Comments: Waterline model to scale 1/192. Model is really a hybrid of the ship during her commissioned lifetime (1939 - 1956). She served mainly in Mediterranean and Far East. Seriously damaged on several occasions, resulting in numerous modifications, which is why I had so many problems settling on a model true to any one date.

Back in the hot tub! by Ballast Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi GrahamP74. Sorry but I have just seen your pics of the boat in the hot tub. I hope you don't mind if I make an observation but I think she rides a little high in the water at the stern ! Cygnus always advise that the lowest part of the transom should be about 25/26cms below the water at the lowest point which in 1/12 scale terms is 2.5cms. How much ballast have you got in her and where? I have attached a photo of mine for your info also one of the real deal to demonstrate what I mean. I have a 4lb divers belt weight in mine in the stern over where the prop shaft exits the hull and two six volt batteries amidships which weigh 4lbs each = total ballast 12lbs. You look to have the same amount of deck clutter so that is about what I would be putting in yours. As I say, it's just an observation but if you have a look at any Cygnus boat in any harbour that seems be the rule of thumb. Hope you don't mind me picking up on this. Alan. Ps the bow looks just a tad high above the waterline as well.

Superstructure finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Today has seen some more progress. I have modified the battery tray to take the battery lying down to lower the CofG and get as much weight as possible below the intended waterline. Have done the finishing touches to the superstructure and now considered that finished. I am sure I could add some more lumps, bumps, antennas ect but where do draw the line? At the end of the day I consider this near scale and if inacurate in anyway then so be it, the original Aerokits was only really semi-scale anyway. What is important is that I am pleased with it so far and I am sure she will look great on the lake! Last job today was to give the hull a light sand and a final coat of resin making 3 in total. Once off, and sanded that should see the hull ready for painting once ive added the fore/aft deck thingies (dont know what they are called?) If anyone can offer some advice on how to fit the rubbing strake when I get there that would be useful. Ive a length of 10mm black flexible tubing to use. Do I leave it as a tube, cut it any way or what? I presume its nailed to the side of the hull?

Progress on the hull - At Last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Electrics are in and working! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My other concern now is whether or not to add the 3 crew figures I’ve bought. They being resin are quite heavy and will of course be on the deck and adding weight above the waterline could cause balance issues? Coming from scale RC aircraft, there is nothing worse than “no pilot in the office” and adding figures to scale boats to me adds that human touch. We will see?