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>> Home > Tags > waterline

ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water line
water proofing
water pump
Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin

What Li-po? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Yngvegr, basically I agree with Flack👍 But if you want to go step by step and test it with the 540s first (will give you a Datum to compare with brushless at a later stage) then- Brushed have no problem with LiPos, or any other battery chemistry for that matter😉 For the voltage anything from 6 to 12V is fine for the 540. I have two 540s in my 135cm destroyer and she ran just fine on a 6VSLA, with a relay to switch a second one in series for 'All Ahead Emergency'! Higher capacity brings not only more sailing time but also more weight! Suggest you weigh the existing batteries and check the waterline and trim in the 'domestic test tank' before you buy the biggest batts you can find😉 If you do go LiPo don't forget to buy an appropriate charger and a Capacity Tester as well!!! Whatever you do, have fun doing it, cheers Doug 😎

Tamiya Tape! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The Tamiya tape is great stuff to work with.I use it all the time. Just make sure you keep a constant pressure on it.Don't pull on it too hard.It does take curves depending on the width of the tape. Enjoy marking your waterline.

Tamiya Tape! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Well the Tamiya Tape arrived! Now I can go ahead and fix the waterline on the Brooklyn! There's some over spray I have to tidy up. Once I'm done with that. on to the Deck and Deck hardware!

Tamiya Tape! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
I've placed an order for some Tamiya tape. As Doug, RNinMunich recommended! Trying to cleanup the waterline on the Brooklyn! Oh, Had to order a new battery pack. for my wireless Dremel also! Does anyone know of a good electronics place one can order resisters from?

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Some idea of her extent when rigged. The tape on the hull is the waterline, so you can see how deep she is. A real Plank On Edge Cutter of the age. The lines I used are of Clara from Traditions and Memories of American Yachting, which is very generous with the English yacht drawings and Clara's lines are so very similar to Vanity's. Vanity was, by the way, built as Mary, renamed Madrena and renamed again, Vanity, which she has been FAR longer than the other two dull ones together. So Vanity she remains as that was her last entry AS A YACHT, in Lloyd's Register. In 1917, she was written down as "Became a houseboat".

Finally a Waterline! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Go for it Ed 👍 BTW: recommend Tamiya modelling masking tape to avoid bleeding. Gives a good sharp edge.

Finally a Waterline! by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have used white pinstriping before.Plus I have used other colours too.Make sure to stick it down good.I first used my fingers then after the tape is on to my liking I used a burnishing stick.One thing I forgot to mention is start your tape at the halfway point on the stern then go around the bow and meet back at the stern.The pinstriping I have used is either the car striping or the one that is used for the model airplanes.

Finally a Waterline! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Brooklyn now has a waterline! You can't see it in the picture. but my masking tape bled in some area's. Just a few minor correction needed! I'm thinking of putting white pin striping! On the waterline. what do you think?

CB90 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Model undergoing sea trials after painting, note rudders are too aggressive. Command Boat 90 (CB90) Stridsbåt 90 H is a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet. Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Waterline Builders: Dockstavarvet Complement: 3 plus up to 21 troops and equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a “feel” for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. If it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the “dry” propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. If it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

Progress by Gdaynorm Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
At least she looks like a warship at last. I wonder if her anchor winches would be different to those twenty years later. She had multiple booms for torpedo nets. I assume they were mounted to the hull a few feet above waterline and swung out from there. Were they wood or steel does anyone know? Must have been quite an operation setting them out!

Which Paint? by boaty Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
4 years ago I restored an old 34 inch Aerokits Crash tender. I used filler for any gaps in the joints then prepared the hull with sanding sealer having got it really smooth. For the rest of the paintwork I first used Halfords primer then used their acrylic for the final colours. I gave it four coats of colour leaving it over a day between each coat. When painting was finished and after checking it was fully dry, I rubbed the hull down lightly using Maguires scratch remover, (also from Halfords) and got a nice shine between the deck and the red waterline. It seems to have lasted well as it has not crazed over this amount of time. The total cost of the primer, paint and especially the scratch remover was not cheap but in the long run it did work. Boaty🤓

Calling Devon boaters. Help! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi, I would be inclined to fit one just above the waterline, 1/8 or 3/16 square. This is to reduce the risk of swamping the boat at high speed, esp. in a tight turn 😲 There are some excellent tips on the site about how to retrofit them. Attached some pics and notes I downloaded from Dave_M's contribution. May need to do this to my Sea Scout, depending on the sea-trial😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Sanding down. by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks for all of your help. This is really useful information. I think I will leave the camouflage and just keep to the base colour. Would you paint to the waterline in matt red. I have looked at the shapeways site and they sell Mk 12 carriages in 1:35 scale which I think yours is at 28" over 80`. The gun tub was only placed on the deck for the photo. I have several pictures now showing the correct position. I will alter it and fit just before painting.😊 Thanks again. Peter.👍