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>> Home > Tags > waterline

waterline
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water line
water proofing
water pump
waterproof
waterline
HMS Hood by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Thanks Ron. I have tried to be most particular with scale speed and waterline. I used 1.2kg of ballast carefully laid out whilst hull was floating in the bath. Once in place I secured it with expanding foam.

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Visitors have set off late to avoid traffic so only now having to close down.......... I have had a quick look at the boat and there are a fair few holes inside the structure to block up if using air pressure. To strip and paint up to the current waterline would be 'doable' for me and only need a red lead type finish and then seal. Not done that sought of think before but now on the list of possibles. Certainly not going to be on the water for the Colwyn Bay Venetian Night at the end of the month! Such is life. NPJ

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 Internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! If the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. If it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks both very much. All good stuff building up and I and keeping a log of it. I have the boat in the bath at the moment to see what the waterline is now and the balance. will take images later. Also some of the parts ordered have arrived..................... I feel 'scale' is going to be an issue for me. Some of the 1/16th look better than the 1/12th and 1/24 is in with a change for some bits! Must be doing it wrong. NPJ

Exciters/transducers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neville, where did I get Neil from?😲 Sorry can't help with balance point cos I don't know the boat. All I do is trim out in the 'Domestic Test Tank' for best balance along the waterline. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I forgot the oilers😲 I only bother to fit them in fast boats with high revving brushless, like I did with my Sea Scout renovation, see 'Jessica' blog. For scale 'plodders' I don't usually bother. Just pull the shaft now n again and use a plastic syringe to inject some oil or Teflon grease.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the nozzles fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet nozzle is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the nozzle opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the nozzle. During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising

Exciters/transducers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Neil, am I getting too predictable!? 😲 Transducers; yes, above the waterline as much as possible, unless you want to stick your ears underwater to hear it! Thickening the hull might just improve the bass and dampen the treble by shifting the resonant frequency of the hull down a bit. 'New Posts'; just hit the 'Refresh' button of your browser. Ciao, Doug 😎

Exciters/transducers by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Is it right that you must place these Units above the waterline? Also is it worth thickening the boat hull, at point of contact, to improve sound? By the way, how do you make new 'Posts' always appear on the top of the list? I bet RN Munich will be on to the one! NPJ

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.

On the water Corvett by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 29 days ago
Realigned motor to shaft painted hull add waterline and ballast and K40 runs well on 7.2 to 12v A nice model to have a good size and attractive on window sill.

Crash Tender davit info... by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have done some more digging and I hope this confirms the colour scheme for the boat. please see the reply I received from:- Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN Hello, Colour scheme for the above boat is as follows. Black topsides, red oxide anti-fouled bottom separated by a 2in white waterline. All decks dark grey anti-slip deck paint, cabin sides light grey, cabin roofs white anti-slip deck paint. Mast-white, monitors red, crash ladder and davit silver/aluminium. An RAF roundel is centred 5ft 4in back from stem and 2ft 1.5in above mean waterline. The centre red disc 4in Dia., middle white circle 8in Dia., and the outer blue circle 12in Dia. The bottom of the white bow numbers should be 2ft 7in above mean waterline. They are 9in high by 6in wide with a 1.5in stroke width and a 2in separation between each number. The forward end of numbers 3 or 4 on the starboard side is 12in back from the outside of the roundel (Port side similar). The main FIRE letters are 2ft 6in high by 2ft wide with a stroke width of 6in and a separation of 6in between letters. The base of the letters is 7.5in above mean waterline. Transom numbers are 10in high by 8in wide and a stroke width of 1.5in and a separation on 2in. Base of numbers to be 1ft 5in above mean waterline. Draft marks are 3in high with a 0.5in stroke. I hope this meets with your requirements. Yours faithfully Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN.

After fibreglass and primer coat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ron, mark the 'real' waterline, the LWL (Load Waterline) as on your plan. Then load the boat (in the domestic Test Tank😉) down to that line then you know what she can carry, including any missing deck and superstructure of course! See test I just did for my fish cutter 'Gina 2'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: seal and prime the hull when you wish, I do final finishing / polishing when all major internal works are done, and especially after prop shaft tubes and rudder stock are fitted and 'fettled in'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Applies just as well to renovations and new builds! BUT more power to your elbow for scratch building 👍

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Couldn't wait! (curiosity killed the cat!) although it IS now 'tomorrow' here! Load test results: Taycol motor 235gm, lead ballast 965gm, total 1.2Kgm, and still plenty of free board to the projected waterline 😊 An' she ain't sunk yet! 😁😁 so shouldn't have any problems fitting her out, at least not what weight concerns. Space is another question 😲 'Nothing is impossible' so they say 😉 (Please don't mention Titanic😲) Tomorrow (or later today🤔) is another day or what? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎