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>> Home > Tags > waterproof

waterproof
water proofing
american enterprise
ahc waterson b444
blackwater
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water line
water pump
waterline
waterproof
Kyosho Fortune 612 by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
If you have not repaired this yet, I use Gorilla glue. It comes in several formulas, so read the label. One type will expand while curing. I do not use this type.I use the CA gel from Gorilla and the white waterproof glue .

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by SelwynWilliams Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
You can get very robust and waterproof toggle switches from companies that make underwater torches for divers. I have never had any trouble with them because of leakage or rusting. Try Birchley Products at http://www.birchleyproducts.co.uk/

motors by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Don't take up knitting, you will never get a knitted boat waterproof😁

12v esc for trolling motor build by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Interesting project. Difficult to give advice on the info available. Looks like a steerable powered nozzle at the rear but what motor is it and what are the specs? An Esc does all the hard work and converts the rx pulses into usable power. I have arduinos and they can be programmed to control the power and rotation of a motor but would need additional high power Mosfets as well as other circuitry to buffer the unit from the output. If you are really into arduinos then a walk in the park but I believe an ESC would possibly be more robust and waterproof. It would be good if you were to post a build blog of your progress as the subject is certainly different to any models we have seen to-date. Good luck with the build

motors by pilot Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
hi i have a wooden huntsman 46 ready for motor my last post gave me some ideas i am looking at hobbyking turnigy xk3674 1900kv part number 9393000021-0 and turnigy marine 120a bec waterproof speed controller part number 9020000033-0 what do we think steve

Painting starts-radio gear in! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!

Happy Hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
hi -the hull only had these two motors and gearboxes in .I have greased the gearboxes cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps ( waterproof type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels

Fairey Marine by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
I dont think anyone actually prints ready to use. So just put it in Google, then print it out and stick it on. Don't forget to laquer over the top to waterproof it. Sorry, but thats the best i can do. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Aeromarine Laminates Predator 21 hull with HK 2630kv brushless outboard and Turnigy 120a w/c esc. Waterproof metal geared Servo and will have 4-6s lipo when completed. NOW SOLD

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Racing Sloop (no name yet) by Krampus Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Thank you, Bruce! I normally build boats using Styrene sheets since I don't like to get into the epoxy business. I know others work a different procedure by using clear lacquer and are able to waterproof and give that crystal-like looking appearance. Any ideas you or any other shipmates may offer to this humble swabbie?

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
PS to Chris, Assuming an optimum speaker / transducer, to get more volume you need a more powerful amplifier, more Watts! The little stand-alone boards rarely produce more than 1W. Again check the Component Shop. Also check that your speaker / transducer is rated for the higher power!! If using a traditional speaker with a cone make sure it is a waterproof Mylar cone!!! 'Uvverwise' they can go awful soggy an' droopy 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Neville, to be real, there is no such thing as a waterproof switch, stay with the switch in the hull, yes its a faff to keep lifting the cab but it does keep the water out. Cheat on the build thread??? your building it from basic components, take the pickies and post them, not like me who made a complete cods of the whole thing, still cant get my photos on the blog!!!! Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Thank you again Mark. I was thinking of trying to set up a waterproof switch accessible above deck. Thought it would be easier when at the 'quayside'. When some of the other bits arrive I will be in a position to start 'laying out' and looking at the balance. I will be following advice received here, but will keep asking questions....... Some bits will not be here until second week in October! Still plenty to do though. Have started to keep bits in boxes as you suggested. Really grateful for all the help. Have taken some images and will start the 'build thread' but seems a bit of a cheat as it is already built............. Cheers to all. NPJ

What paint type by gjtowler46 Apprentice   Posted: 5 months ago
I'd go with Eze kote to seal first. It's water based so easy to clean up after, it's waterproof when dry, fuel proof and easy to sand. I've recently used it to re seal a diagonal planked hull I built 30 years ago and it's like new. You can then apply whatever type of paint to finish