I picked up a 46" Huntsman yesterday, so i have the same sort of restoration as you have, but bigger 😕 First thing to sort is the "started" planning on the decking. There must be somewhere I can buy strips of timber to plank with to save making my own. And what does one use to represent the black interplank waterproofing ? Otherwise I have to take off the bits already glued on. Cheers guys, Dave W 😊
Hi Guys Well I installed the aft deck and started planking. The outer trim planking is in two pieces with a joint behind the windscreen because my mate gave me the veneer for free. The idea is to hide the joints with black waterproof sandpaper used for the nonslip pieces shown on the plan. Canabus
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne
A GRANDE RICHIESTA! as you asked me how I did it! It is very simple! ehm not so much but: you take the lobster (minipig submarine u16 new) take out delicately the pincers (the two motors) paying attention to isolate the cables for each motors, than take away from the body the fruit (the intere block including internal battery, receiver and jack to charge) than I substitued the two motor pillars of the original fairplay kit with the two mini sub pillars very similar in sembiance and proportions, painted than reconnect the cables of the two motors with tiny cable joint to the "fruit" fixed on the exact balanced centre of the ship hull (you can see by the photos: it is right between the two main internal hollow septs). You can use the front submarine lights to enlight the fairplay lower cabins. Take care it is a nonconventional very difficult and nerve raking work but with a little help (from my friends? Noo nobody here) from the lady luck instead you can obtain the result of a mad - merely responding to command - foolish steering - lovable tugboat. hope this pics can help (Excuse me but I sealed the fruit before fixing to the hull with a lot of electric tape and sealing paint to waterproof it! So I haven't images of it naked but it is a quite simple structure! 😱 P.S. Excuse for my neapolitan-deformed english I can't do better!
John, as it has glass cloth on the inside anyway it will be strong enough and so Dave's clever polyurethane varnish will be ideal on the outside as a waterproof skin, the glass cloth being the dimensional stabiliser on the inside. Looks like we've cracked it for you (Ooh, pun NOT intended!) I haven't used that stuff, but I HAVE heard excellent reviews of it and that schooner looks very tasty. Martin
Hi, for my U26 I had to glue a silicon rubber gasket all the way round the equipment space to ensure a watertight seal with the perspex tween-deck.Total length ca 1m +. I used a waterproof gel CA glue which allows some adjustment time. Worked great. I still have have the sub! 😊😎
Hi Hugh, strip both ends. Twist the wires around each other and solder. Cover the joint with heat shrink sleeving. I cut the antenna of all my receiver and fit a small 2mm plug and socket so I can take the RX out without destroying half the ship. This was essential with my U Boat as the antenna is led out of the pressure hull through a waterproofed (epoxy sealed) hole in the bow. Topside the remaining wire was fitted with another plug an socket, so I could remove the whole sea-deck for servicing, and stretched over the conning tower and down to the after deck just like the real ones. Plus or minus a cm or so won't make much difference. Wavelength at 27MHz is about 11 metres and at 40MHz about 7.5m. So our antennas are working at about 1/16th of the wavelength. This is normally compensated (a bit!) inside the RX with a coil which increases the effective length that the RX input sees. My first boss always told me "RF is a black art!" 😉 Maybe if you try to beat the physics, but it took me around the world! Cheers Doug 😎
Wonderful wonderful wonderful 👍 Do you have a razor saw for for cutting an access hatch perhaps? I have an idea for 'hiding' the hatch and keeping it waterproof, have the same problem with access to the rudder on my Graf Spee. More tomorrow. Servus(!) Doug 😎
Just made my first dovetail corner joint on one of the decklights. Seemed to work out OK once I'd I'd got the shape of both parts in my head. Used the vice jaws as a guide and a piercing saw to cut the joints. My Aliphatic glue had dried up, so I had to use PVA, so no pics till tomorrow in the daylight, In 1/16th scale the decklight over the main saloon (see above picture) is 4ft. x 2ft-6in....3"x 1.875". Nowhere near big enough to fiddle in my sail winch system so I think she may have to be a rudder only job. No sweat really. I had hours of good sailing with an old plastic 375, rudder only. Unless I can work out an invisible method of lifting a section of decking. AND keeping it waterproof! Martin
Hi Chris. Like yours, my very first wooden boat was held together with Cascamite. I'm very happy to recommend Titebond 2, it's an aliphatic resin that's waterproof, dries very quickly and forms a very strong bond on wood to wood joints. I have used it extensively in the construction of my crash tender project. The other glue I have used is Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy resin, great for wood to metal and various other materials. I hope that is helpful. Rob.
I realise that this is probably (almost certainly!) going over old ground for the nth time, but my last wooden model was in the days of Cascamite, and things appear to have moved on a tad since then so I need advise on which glue to use on my newly acquired Aeronaut Jenny. It says in the manual to use 'quick setting , waterproof, white glue' which sounds like a PVA glue to me but I could very easily be wrong. I would therefore be grateful for any advise going re types of glue, and their trade names, if possible. Thanks Chris