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This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
hi -the hull only had these two motors and gearboxes in .I have greased the gearboxes cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps ( waterproof type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels
I dont think anyone actually prints ready to use. So just put it in Google, then print it out and stick it on. Don't forget to laquer over the top to waterproof it. Sorry, but thats the best i can do. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ
Thank you, Bruce! I normally build boats using Styrene sheets since I don't like to get into the epoxy business. I know others work a different procedure by using clear lacquer and are able to waterproof and give that crystal-like looking appearance. Any ideas you or any other shipmates may offer to this humble swabbie?
PS to Chris, Assuming an optimum speaker / transducer, to get more volume you need a more powerful amplifier, more Watts! The little stand-alone boards rarely produce more than 1W. Again check the Component Shop. Also check that your speaker / transducer is rated for the higher power!! If using a traditional speaker with a cone make sure it is a waterproof Mylar cone!!! 'Uvverwise' they can go awful soggy an' droopy 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neville, to be real, there is no such thing as a waterproof switch, stay with the switch in the hull, yes its a faff to keep lifting the cab but it does keep the water out. Cheat on the build thread??? your building it from basic components, take the pickies and post them, not like me who made a complete cods of the whole thing, still cant get my photos on the blog!!!! Mark
Thank you again Mark. I was thinking of trying to set up a waterproof switch accessible above deck. Thought it would be easier when at the 'quayside'. When some of the other bits arrive I will be in a position to start 'laying out' and looking at the balance. I will be following advice received here, but will keep asking questions....... Some bits will not be here until second week in October! Still plenty to do though. Have started to keep bits in boxes as you suggested. Really grateful for all the help. Have taken some images and will start the 'build thread' but seems a bit of a cheat as it is already built............. Cheers to all. NPJ
I'd go with Eze kote to seal first. It's water based so easy to clean up after, it's waterproof when dry, fuel proof and easy to sand. I've recently used it to re seal a diagonal planked hull I built 30 years ago and it's like new. You can then apply whatever type of paint to finish
Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave
Hi Neil, your Dad's dead right! I've come to wonder how the heck I ever found time to go to work😉 important is to know just what you want to do with your time long before you retire - and then DO IT! Like wot i am now 😁 Yep, the cosmetics are to tidy up around all the hull and bulkhead breakthroughs and blend them in to the underlying structure. With special attention to ensuring that all hull breakthroughs (prop shaft / rudder shaft etc) are thoroughly waterproofed!! Good sealing on bulkhead breakthroughs is just(!) for 'Damage Control' to limit the spread of ingressive water in case summat nasty happens🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
What a shame. It looks such a lovely location for a model boat club. There must be some cash somewhere in the system which could just repair the pond and waterproof it. If there is a "current" club, maybe they could approach a local business to help with finances as a sponsorship. Heres hoping for a positive future. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
Hi Norm, The whole Operation Pedestal story is incredible! What else could they do with Ohio? Broken back and had been sitting on the bottom for a few years! For some time the upper (dry) decks were converted to troop accommodation. Re Carley floats: "The Carley float was formed from a length of copper or steel tubing 12–20 inches (30–50 cm) in diameter bent into an oval ring. The ring was surrounded by a buoyant mass of kapok or cork, and then covered with a layer of canvas rendered waterproof via painting or doping. The metal tube was divided into waterproof compartments with vertical baffles. The raft was thus rigid, and could remain buoyant, floating equally well with either side uppermost, even if the waterproof outer was punctured. The floor of the raft was made from a wood or webbing grating. Boxes containing paddles, water, rations and survival equipment were lashed to the floor grating. Men could either sit around the rim of the raft, or, if in the water, cling to rope loops strung around its edge. The largest model could accommodate up to fifty men, half inside the raft, and the others in the water holding onto the ropes." By the way; the Carley rafts on the stbd side of Lusty seem to be at least double stacked and lashed! Pic 1 shows detail of Carley rafts on HMS Rodney. You can just make out the boxes with paddles an' stuff! Note what looks like an ER Artificer lounging in a doorway while the 'matelots' are swabbing the deck! 😉 Pic must be a fairly early one cos you can see a useless Vickers Quad 0.5" machine gun on the upper sponson. These were rapidly replaced with 20mm Oerlikons after the first experiences in action! Re 'round structure on mainmast': NO! No glazing, it doesn't seem to have been manned and certainly wasn't a 'Fighting Top'. Seems more likely it was a canvas protection ( from weather and curious eyes!) for a radar antenna. Best pic I have of it shows it as not really round but 'panelled'. No openings at all. Access to it is by a short ladder at the rear from the small deck just below it, see pic 2. From the uniforms of the MPs I would guess that this was taken during her repair / refit in the US. Curious is that it is difficult to ascertain when she had this 'thing' and when it was removed. Probably during one of the many radar upgrades. Most early pics seem to show it, by 1945 in Sydney it was gone (pics 4 & 5). Re rebuilding the island; a razor saw would help to remove it, then sand the deck flat. But sometime we have to decide what date and refit / repair status you want to depict!! 🤔 Have fun in UK, say hello to 'Blighty' and sink a pint (or two😉) of 'Spitfire' and/or Breakspear XXX for me. 😉 Cheers Doug 😎