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>> Home > Tags > waterproof

water proofing
american enterprise
ahc waterson b444
salt water
water cooled
water jacket
water line
water pump
HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Good clue! - extract from manual re set-up "1. Set throttle trim to neutral and turn on the transmitter. 2. Press the ESC on/off button. The LEDs will light, one green, one red. 3. Wait 3 seconds, the LEDs will change to blue. Your ESC is now set. 4. The ESC has an automatic LiPo cut-off. One flashing red LED means your battery is low and the cut-off has activated." Note point 4 !! Are you using LiPo or NiMH? Also- "Problem: Model runs properly, then motor goes dead. ➤ The built-in thermal protection may be automatically shutting down the ESC due to overheating conditions. Check for binding drivetrain, bad motor or incorrect gear ratio. Adjust gear mesh, replace motor or change gear ratio. Allow the ESC to cool and try again." ESC seems to be mostly used in buggies - above is extract from the Duratrax Evader EXT2.4 manual. Thus, assuming direct drive, 'changing gear ratio' for us means change the prop! May also have been the cause of the blue ESC problems? Which version of the Sprint? There are Sprint DTXM1200, Sprint 2 DTXM1205, and Sprint Waterproof DTXM1220. All with slightly different specs and motor requirements; brushed / brushless. So what is your setup, End to End; battery to prop?

Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit plus by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit plus 95% of the items required to complete the model. Brand new kit, motor, prop shaft, batteries, controller, glue’s etc. Unfortunately due to an unforeseen illness It’s looking like I will not be able to start the build so if anyone would be interested in buying the lot at a discounted price please message me? I could travel up to 100 miles from DE15 to deliver or meet to complete a deal if anyone is interested? Thanks, Ian. Courier may be possible at cost. WHATS INCLUDED: The Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit Boat ESC Programming Card 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor Canopy Glue Formula 560 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) Universal Joint Propeller Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit XL Brass Rudder Waterproof Toggle Switch Propshaft Grease ZAP Z Poxy Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3mtrs 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs I believe this is an amazing buy at £295

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...

First post... by BOATSHED Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I don't know if it help you but this is a very good glue. You don't have to mix it like epoxy glue's. It is waterproof I was recommended it for a boat build and found it to be fine. I have used all sorts in the past dating back to the 60's. Cascamite, epoxy, even with my dad as a child we used the good old fashion smelly glue bead's. I still use them here and there. But we all have different idea's. Hope this helps.

Glue guns by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
I have used them and still do on occasions in my experience I would never trust a joint made with one that has to stand any stress. If you just want to stick something decorative down its ok. If on the other hand you need to be sure the joint will hold use something else. The more porous the item to be glued the better hot glue will hold it. Yes the glue joint is waterproof BUT its perfectly possible for water to get under ( capillary action) a joint on a smooth surface and cause a joint to fail. By now you have probably gathered I am not a fan. Oh and if you do use one watch out the glue is hot enough to cause a burn and it sticks to skin fine.

Fantastic Plastic by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I hate wood! cant work with it, its always a disaster😱 Plastic for me, cuts easy, glues easy, cheap, pretty much paint ready, light. I refurbished my fireboat with it, and did the PCF build with it, also, our models get wet, and its waterproof, !😊

stripping hull for repair and repaint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave

Fiberglassing by Delboy Apprentice   Posted: 23 days ago
I find Eze-Kote from Deluxe materials a much better material to work with than epoxy or polyester. It's a water-based resin which provides a waterproof and fuel-proof finish. you may need three or four coats but that's not a chore as it's easy to apply, there's no wastage as the pot never 'goes-off' and it's dry to a paint-able surface in half an hour. You clean up with water as well.

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
If you have any plastic that needs glueing and waterproof and only has a small contact point the stufff to use is something called plexsis acrylic comes in a 2part compound and mixed in the nosel as it is squeeze out. It's the best thing out there. I build super yachts for 20 years now for the rich and famous and we use a lot of it on boats that are in the 20 to 30 million prise range . There are some different types rock hard. To ones with a bit of flexibility all dry with in 10 to 15 mins thanks for reading and I do hope this will help people with problems ..... master b Wright

First post... by Midlife306 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, The 1/12 Bluebird is brushless (all running gear from PMB), as it's made from balsa, I've waterproofed everything with sanding sealer inside & out. To be honest I was planning on taking it to quiet stretches of the Leeds/Liverpool canal as I didn't think any scale model boat clubs would want anything to do with my boat, but I will have a look at what clubs there are locally. The 1/4.2 will be IC powered, I want it to reach a scale speed of 300mph so if I can hit 75mph in the real world with it I'll be very happy. I hope if I can keep it light enough a couple of Tiger King S27 Evo's will get me there. I've emailed PMB as they don't have any stock at the moment, to see when they are due some in, but I've not received a reply yet. Plan is to buy 1 engine initially so I can plan the layout & while I'm carrying on with the build I was going to drop it into this eBay hull to see how it performs. I have a couple of Enya 40ss motors, I'm going to try one in the Short Stuff & see how it goes. I can't cope sitting at home watching the telly, I like to keep busy😎 Cheers Wayne

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Well there doesn't appear to be much water damage and the keel looks solid. Once glued it should paint up well and remain waterproof. The inside looks a bit gungy so I suggest you clean this thoroughly. The connector on the end of the shaft needs replacing with a modern Huco type coupling. Looks like the rudder is missing, if so your local model shop should have a replacement. Have you checked the propshaft for wear? From this era the shaft thread will likely be imperial. 35Mhz is reserved for aerial RC in the UK so not allowed for model boats or cars. Some 35/40Mhz receivers can work on both frequencies, so as long as you are using 40Mhz crystals and the range is Ok it may be possible. Dave

Planking the hull. by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Timber hull construction finished. Now the sanding and filling of imperfections to prepare for the next stage which will be the application of a fibreglass cloth skin to waterproof the hull and obtain a steel-plated like finish.

Planking the Hull by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎