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>> Home > Tags > waterproof

waterproof
water proofing
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Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
If you have any plastic that needs glueing and waterproof and only has a small contact point the stufff to use is something called plexsis acrylic comes in a 2part compound and mixed in the nosel as it is squeeze out. It's the best thing out there. I build super yachts for 20 years now for the rich and famous and we use a lot of it on boats that are in the 20 to 30 million prise range . There are some different types rock hard. To ones with a bit of flexibility all dry with in 10 to 15 mins thanks for reading and I do hope this will help people with problems ..... master b Wright

First post... by Midlife306 Petty Officer   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Dave, The 1/12 Bluebird is brushless (all running gear from PMB), as it's made from balsa, I've waterproofed everything with sanding sealer inside & out. To be honest I was planning on taking it to quiet stretches of the Leeds/Liverpool canal as I didn't think any scale model boat clubs would want anything to do with my boat, but I will have a look at what clubs there are locally. The 1/4.2 will be IC powered, I want it to reach a scale speed of 300mph so if I can hit 75mph in the real world with it I'll be very happy. I hope if I can keep it light enough a couple of Tiger King S27 Evo's will get me there. I've emailed PMB as they don't have any stock at the moment, to see when they are due some in, but I've not received a reply yet. Plan is to buy 1 engine initially so I can plan the layout & while I'm carrying on with the build I was going to drop it into this eBay hull to see how it performs. I have a couple of Enya 40ss motors, I'm going to try one in the Short Stuff & see how it goes. I can't cope sitting at home watching the telly, I like to keep busy😎 Cheers Wayne

Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £325 for the lot. Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way Bargain at £325 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £240.

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Well there doesn't appear to be much water damage and the keel looks solid. Once glued it should paint up well and remain waterproof. The inside looks a bit gungy so I suggest you clean this thoroughly. The connector on the end of the shaft needs replacing with a modern Huco type coupling. Looks like the rudder is missing, if so your local model shop should have a replacement. Have you checked the propshaft for wear? From this era the shaft thread will likely be imperial. 35Mhz is reserved for aerial RC in the UK so not allowed for model boats or cars. Some 35/40Mhz receivers can work on both frequencies, so as long as you are using 40Mhz crystals and the range is Ok it may be possible. Dave

Planking the hull. by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Timber hull construction finished. Now the sanding and filling of imperfections to prepare for the next stage which will be the application of a fibreglass cloth skin to waterproof the hull and obtain a steel-plated like finish.

Planking the Hull by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

Part 2. The searchlight optics. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper. The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓 The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos. The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light. I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof. The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss. These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients. Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front. Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎

water proofing by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
All of the above suggestion should work fine, but a good idea to remove as much H2O as possible after every sail, and leave hatches etc open at least over night, to allow for any remaining dampness to dissipate that may have by-passed the waterproof coating, Have a 1/24th scale Vosper Motor Torpedo boat, constructed using balsa with tissue cover, which is some 30-40 years old, hull still sound using the above mantra. 😎

water proofing by jaffy012 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi can anyone help me im building nordkap trawler, can anyone tell me how to waterproof inside as well as out side, and what sort of water proof wood filler, some one told me dope to do inside is correct, any help would be appreciated, colin😭

Gluing the insides box together. by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The sides bow and the stern have been glued together. The inside of the Barge will be beaded with 3M Caulking, just at the seams. I'm going to do this to waterproof the gaps, that run along the inside of the Barge. I did this on my Lead Barge and it Worked OK.

The wheelhouse, pain tempered by an inspired suggestion! by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Bobdunn. Like you I am a born again modeller. I discovered aliphatic glue while researching building techniques and materials on this site prior to starting construction of my model. It's a bit like PVA but it is waterproof and has other additives to increase the bond strength among other things. My first crash tender was constructed with 'Cascamite' resin which was the most appropriate at the time as the PVA glues available then were not waterproof. See the start of my blog for the full story. I have been using a combination of 30 minute epoxy and 'Titebond 2' throughout my build. Robbob.

Pilot Boat by cormorant Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Colin Yes, I did brush paint the deck with an inexpensive acrylic. The sand mix was trial and error. I started off with a thin mix and gradually added more sand, testing it on scraps of plastic, until I was happy. A brushed coat of satin varnish waterproofed and added to the realism. Best of luck. Steve

Precedent Perkasa by Peter501 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Can't find a gas turbine sound anywhere but I used the air start diesel (details below off there advert)better than nothing and quite impressive ( I think ). MTronik Digisound Large Multi Cylinder Air Start Diesel Ref: 4462 The digiSOUND5m is the new marine sound module from Mtroniks Ltd. It is the worlds first 100% waterproof, plug n play sound module designed to take the hassle out of giving your model a realistic sound! The sound module requires NO programming or set up, it comes with a realistic sound pre-installed leaving just the installation to complete before you can get under way! The unit comes complete with built in amplifier, wiring loom and even a 75.0mm diameter waterproof speaker! You simply install the unit in your model and go! There is no complicated PC interface to deal with or complicated set up, you REALLY do just have to plug it in and go!!! Add this to the legendary Mtroniks waterproof construction and you really don't need to look any further! Peter