Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
I had used Cascamite glue for years and found it superb. I could not find it locally recently but will now try the internet. Incidentally, is the tite glue waterproof or just weatherproof? Thanks, Bill
Thanks very much MT, 😊 I may not be quick but I do try to be thorough! Used to drive my boss nuts, but I got results 😉 Yep, saw that in Model Boats ( I have a digital subscription - disadvantage is that I don't get the free plans 😭) nice subject - good luck 👍 Will watch your progress with interest. Next job for me is to cut out the windows from 3mm green tinted plexi (or acrylic) 'glass'. Last step to make the Sea Scout waterproof. If the weather holds up I will drive down to Garmisch, ca 100km south of Munich, on Saturday to meet up with Krampus, from this site; for sea trials of the Sea Scout. Wish me luck, or 'Hals und Bein-bruch' (Break neck and leg!) as the locals say 😲 After 33 years I still haven't figured out why 🤓 Yesterday experimented with printable decal sheets for the nameplates! Watch this space!!! 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎
Hi Donnie, Yep, we had 25°C (Plus!) here yesterday😎, should be warm next week as well but I still have to fit windows to make her waterproof, and a brass or alu U channel to protect the keel. Ciao, Doug
Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost £17 at the time , now £32 (4/2018) via Amazon
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.
Looking good Ed,👍 I've often wondered at the height of the stacks I've seen in old photos of steam tugs, so I don't think yours is over-tall. It's a pretty big model isn't it? I guess they wanted to keep the smoke clear of the work deck. Re 'getting wet': you could try sealing the tube with diluted white waterproof PVA wood glue? Or even with EzeKote from Deluxe Materials? Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Ed, Now I'm happy😊 As requested photos of the result. Sorry for hijacking your thread😭 I'll post the rest of the details in my Sea Scout blog, got a lotta updating to do there! Using this technique for a few more cycles I think one could get close to the Riva finish. Anyway, I think my boat is now waterproof and it's nearly 4am here, soooo time for some Sack Time! Cheers Doug 😎
Found these in workshop 12v >9v voltage droppers these are fully waterproof 1 is still in original packaging have 2 in total neither have been used as I ordered the wrong ones. Happy to sell together or separately think £2.50 each to cover cost of postage
Decks by AlanP Fleet Admiral! Posted: 3 months ago
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.