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A GRANDE RICHIESTA! as you asked me how I did it! It is very simple! ehm not so much but: you take the lobster (minipig submarine u16 new) take out delicately the pincers (the two motors) paying attention to isolate the cables for each motors, than take away from the body the fruit (the intere block including internal battery, receiver and jack to charge) than I substitued the two motor pillars of the original fairplay kit with the two mini sub pillars very similar in sembiance and proportions, painted than reconnect the cables of the two motors with tiny cable joint to the "fruit" fixed on the exact balanced centre of the ship hull (you can see by the photos: it is right between the two main internal hollow septs). You can use the front submarine lights to enlight the fairplay lower cabins. Take care it is a nonconventional very difficult and nerve raking work but with a little help (from my friends? Noo nobody here) from the lady luck instead you can obtain the result of a mad - merely responding to command - foolish steering - lovable tugboat. hope this pics can help (Excuse me but I sealed the fruit before fixing to the hull with a lot of electric tape and sealing paint to waterproof it! So I haven't images of it naked but it is a quite simple structure! 😱 P.S. Excuse for my neapolitan-deformed english I can't do better!
John, as it has glass cloth on the inside anyway it will be strong enough and so Dave's clever polyurethane varnish will be ideal on the outside as a waterproof skin, the glass cloth being the dimensional stabiliser on the inside. Looks like we've cracked it for you (Ooh, pun NOT intended!) I haven't used that stuff, but I HAVE heard excellent reviews of it and that schooner looks very tasty. Martin
Hi, for my U26 I had to glue a silicon rubber gasket all the way round the equipment space to ensure a watertight seal with the perspex tween-deck.Total length ca 1m +. I used a waterproof gel CA glue which allows some adjustment time. Worked great. I still have have the sub! 😊😎
Hi Hugh, strip both ends. Twist the wires around each other and solder. Cover the joint with heat shrink sleeving. I cut the antenna of all my receiver and fit a small 2mm plug and socket so I can take the RX out without destroying half the ship. This was essential with my U Boat as the antenna is led out of the pressure hull through a waterproofed (epoxy sealed) hole in the bow. Topside the remaining wire was fitted with another plug an socket, so I could remove the whole sea-deck for servicing, and stretched over the conning tower and down to the after deck just like the real ones. Plus or minus a cm or so won't make much difference. Wavelength at 27MHz is about 11 metres and at 40MHz about 7.5m. So our antennas are working at about 1/16th of the wavelength. This is normally compensated (a bit!) inside the RX with a coil which increases the effective length that the RX input sees. My first boss always told me "RF is a black art!" 😉 Maybe if you try to beat the physics, but it took me around the world! Cheers Doug 😎
Wonderful wonderful wonderful 👍 Do you have a razor saw for for cutting an access hatch perhaps? I have an idea for 'hiding' the hatch and keeping it waterproof, have the same problem with access to the rudder on my Graf Spee. More tomorrow. Servus(!) Doug 😎
Just made my first dovetail corner joint on one of the decklights. Seemed to work out OK once I'd I'd got the shape of both parts in my head. Used the vice jaws as a guide and a piercing saw to cut the joints. My Aliphatic glue had dried up, so I had to use PVA, so no pics till tomorrow in the daylight, In 1/16th scale the decklight over the main saloon (see above picture) is 4ft. x 2ft-6in....3"x 1.875". Nowhere near big enough to fiddle in my sail winch system so I think she may have to be a rudder only job. No sweat really. I had hours of good sailing with an old plastic 375, rudder only. Unless I can work out an invisible method of lifting a section of decking. AND keeping it waterproof! Martin
Hi Chris. Like yours, my very first wooden boat was held together with Cascamite. I'm very happy to recommend Titebond 2, it's an aliphatic resin that's waterproof, dries very quickly and forms a very strong bond on wood to wood joints. I have used it extensively in the construction of my crash tender project. The other glue I have used is Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy resin, great for wood to metal and various other materials. I hope that is helpful. Rob.
I realise that this is probably (almost certainly!) going over old ground for the nth time, but my last wooden model was in the days of Cascamite, and things appear to have moved on a tad since then so I need advise on which glue to use on my newly acquired Aeronaut Jenny. It says in the manual to use 'quick setting , waterproof, white glue' which sounds like a PVA glue to me but I could very easily be wrong. I would therefore be grateful for any advise going re types of glue, and their trade names, if possible. Thanks Chris
PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework 🤔 To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-) Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building 😉 Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white woodworking glue without problems. It gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows 😉 glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern). The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short 😭 Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience 😎 These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!? Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like. Cheers from Munich 😎
Hi all, I need to use a matt finish on my model of "Vanity" as she would have had scrubbed teak decks, in fact she still did when I lived on her! Used to leak like a basket, playing a gamalan orchestra in the many pots I had under the drips. So....can anyone recommend a nice reliably matt waterproof finish for the decks on the model. Cheers, Martin
Good clue! - extract from manual re set-up "1. Set throttle trim to neutral and turn on the transmitter. 2. Press the ESC on/off button. The LEDs will light, one green, one red. 3. Wait 3 seconds, the LEDs will change to blue. Your ESC is now set. 4. The ESC has an automatic LiPo cut-off. One flashing red LED means your battery is low and the cut-off has activated." Note point 4 !! Are you using LiPo or NiMH? Also- "Problem: Model runs properly, then motor goes dead. ➤ The built-in thermal protection may be automatically shutting down the ESC due to overheating conditions. Check for binding drivetrain, bad motor or incorrect gear ratio. Adjust gear mesh, replace motor or change gear ratio. Allow the ESC to cool and try again." ESC seems to be mostly used in buggies - above is extract from the Duratrax Evader EXT2.4 manual. Thus, assuming direct drive, 'changing gear ratio' for us means change the prop! May also have been the cause of the blue ESC problems? Which version of the Sprint? There are Sprint DTXM1200, Sprint 2 DTXM1205, and Sprint Waterproof DTXM1220. All with slightly different specs and motor requirements; brushed / brushless. So what is your setup, End to End; battery to prop?
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...
I don't know if it help you but this is a very good glue. You don't have to mix it like epoxy glue's. It is waterproof I was recommended it for a boat build and found it to be fine. I have used all sorts in the past dating back to the 60's. Cascamite, epoxy, even with my dad as a child we used the good old fashion smelly glue bead's. I still use them here and there. But we all have different idea's. Hope this helps.
I have used them and still do on occasions in my experience I would never trust a joint made with one that has to stand any stress. If you just want to stick something decorative down its ok. If on the other hand you need to be sure the joint will hold use something else. The more porous the item to be glued the better hot glue will hold it. Yes the glue joint is waterproof BUT its perfectly possible for water to get under ( capillary action) a joint on a smooth surface and cause a joint to fail. By now you have probably gathered I am not a fan. Oh and if you do use one watch out the glue is hot enough to cause a burn and it sticks to skin fine.