Added a 60A ESC of Chinese origin, improved waterproofing, and modified the rudder water pickup. Repainted trim tab extension as while it sat in the test tank (AKA the bath) the water got into the wood and split the paint work car spray paint not as water proof as I had hoped. On the test I found it was pulling over 40Amps which is not what I want as this is a race boat with limited battery capacity so cut down propeller by filling of the lagging edge of the prop via a drimmel and a file, so now pulls under 30A at full throttle. At the pond I will check current and prop-sizes.
From my experience I would suggest 2-3x your motor current rating especially cheap ones from china, I have found that a brushless motor can rapidly draw high currents with fouling of the propeller by weed etc. I would check the current drawn with the propeller you intend to use with a watt meter in the test tank (bath) held stationary increase power and monitor the current drawn this must be well within the limits of your ESC this should show a 10-15% higher power consumption than when moving. The best bit of advice (which I often don't follow myself) is to put a fuse in line Please note some ESCs are not waterproof (avoid) or seal them with silicon sealant, go for a quality manufacturer and the highest current rating your can afford. Cheap 30A ESCs can be ok for low power motors under 10Amps my racing boat pull 60 Amps and is fused at 80Amps and has a 200Amp ESC
I built this 1/125th scale Amati kit of the Titanic over two years from 2016. It has enhanced etched brass details from Minibrass. Conversion for radio control involved making the hull waterproof with multiple layers of fibreglass cloth bonded with epoxy resin as well as the installation of a drive train and RC gear. With only a tiny rudder, steering is dependent on a mixer unit controlling the differential speed of the propellors.
Just a thought Martin on the wherry sails , have you thought of using boot polish to colour the sail. As you probably know that the original wherry sail started of white and it was only the waterproofing treatment they used that turned the sails black. Ron
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin
Hi Les, funny we've come full circle, I started my model sailing at newsham park back in the late 50s and was there at the beginning of "The Liverpool model POWER boat club back in 1964, when I was 14 years old. Notice the power was omitted from the clubs name approx' 15 years ago. In 1964 i had just completed my first aerokits sea scout complet with an ED seagull 1cc diesel, this club was where I met most of my mentors and founder members of the club, Jimmy Wilson, Cliff'Broadbent, Monty, Oscar Poulson etc etc all now sadly gone to that big lake in the sky where anything goes. I'm in southport now and do go back to newsham from time to time. Thank you for that bit of very interesting info'. The afore mentioned sea scout has just undergone a major re-fit after 55 years, the 1cc diesel has been replaced with a 3940 kv brushless and 60 esc running on 11.1 lipo, yes I know all to big for a little 24inch sea scout, but as the yanks would say " there ain't no substitute for C.C. Boy", you don't have to use it but nice to have. Martin you mentioned the old glue used in those days, the sea scout I made was glued using "caskomite" (can't remember the correct spelling) the boat is still 100% waterproof with no skin separation at all, I do not intend tarting the boat up at all, prefer to keep it the way a 14 year old boy (me) had made it apart from bringing the running gear up to 21st century and something that can be used at my local lakes. Norman.
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin
Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
I had used Cascamite glue for years and found it superb. I could not find it locally recently but will now try the internet. Incidentally, is the tite glue waterproof or just weatherproof? Thanks, Bill
Thanks very much MT, 😊 I may not be quick but I do try to be thorough! Used to drive my boss nuts, but I got results 😉 Yep, saw that in Model Boats ( I have a digital subscription - disadvantage is that I don't get the free plans 😭) nice subject - good luck 👍 Will watch your progress with interest. Next job for me is to cut out the windows from 3mm green tinted plexi (or acrylic) 'glass'. Last step to make the Sea Scout waterproof. If the weather holds up I will drive down to Garmisch, ca 100km south of Munich, on Saturday to meet up with Krampus, from this site; for sea trials of the Sea Scout. Wish me luck, or 'Hals und Bein-bruch' (Break neck and leg!) as the locals say 😲 After 33 years I still haven't figured out why 🤓 Yesterday experimented with printable decal sheets for the nameplates! Watch this space!!! 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎
Hi Donnie, Yep, we had 25°C (Plus!) here yesterday😎, should be warm next week as well but I still have to fit windows to make her waterproof, and a brass or alu U channel to protect the keel. Ciao, Doug