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Hi Doug, Happy New Year. Boats all done and lashed down. Dreadnought had multiple aerials slung between the masts. As far as I can make out they were connected onwards to a fitting just about at deck level right at the stern and also I think below the forward jack stay. I would have expected there to be connections down to the bridge or the housing forward of the after funnel. None of the photos I have are clear enough to show all the rigging, so some extent I am going to have to guess. She must have had signal halyards from presumably the main yard, but again where did they come down to. The bridge does not have much open space around the main house, so they must have come down to the upper bridge to presumably a rack? Any ideas? I have fitted canvas dodgers around the bridge, but am not too happy with them. At this scale very difficult. We have good shipbuilding weather, -12c at midday today. They are ice fishing on our lake. Take care.
Hi Norm, sorry for late response, been under the weather lately🤔 Can't find now where I saw it but I believe the oars were bundled and lashed to the gunnels in some kind of bracket arrangement. Cheers, Doug
Two days ago I put what I hope is the final paint on the hull, hatch and misc. parts. I like to let it sit for several days to cure, especially in cooler weather. I took the time to work out LED navigational lighting for my Brooklyn Tug and got that installed. I will photograph that tug later. Back to the springer tug, I had difficulty finding a good mounting spot for the starboard and port lighting so I decided to raise it on a light bar. Photos show the styrene structure in progress which will have the green and red side lights and a single white light on the top center post. Worked out the resistor values to reduce current and work off of my 6 volt supply, then soldered as shown. Fed the assembled LEDs through the plastic rectangular tunnel I created. The one photo I took with the red LED turned on is so bright that the camera just picked up a bright spot. I may have to reduce brightness but will test out in daylight first.... These LEDs are very bright and are 360 degree view! Ordered from "superbrigntleds.com" in order to get the full 360 as the ones at the local store were very limited to 18 to 60 degrees. Ordered red, green and white and they arrivedin about four days, great service. I have used this company several times and am happy with them, good to know. More to come, Joe
Continue to mockup exterior a bit, still just rough paint, needs work prior to final colors and finish. Shown in the photos are a Switch Holder made by Dubro, a hobby parts maker in the US. This holder uses a slide switch and allows for through the hull mounting. I use this because I want my switch to be activated without having to remove a hatch. Since my large hatch limited where I could fit the switch, I ended up having to mount it on the bow, not the most desirable position due to bow waves. So I built up a mounting from a plastic pipe fitting, a grommet and a screw cap, tried to make it look nautical. This will raise the top of the rod hole high to further weather proof it. See picture with rod only, I replaced the Dubro rod with a longer one that I made from steel rod I had, threaded it and it works. Will trim the length and attach a finger bulb on top. LAST PHOTO -- EVER FEEL LIKE SOMEONES WATCHING YOU. Cheers, Joe
Thanks Doug and Donnie tried the 15 amp fuses all went well the boat is ready for the lake. and thank you all for the help and advise during this build over the past year I really don't think I could have managed it without your input. the next stage is going to be replacement of the brass rudders and some work on weight saving and some pic on the RC system. and making a suitable box for transportation. that will kept me occupied till the better weather. So thank you all and have a merry Christmas and happy new year and a good hangover cure and may your god be with you in all your sailing
Hi all, in case anyone bothered to wonder where I wuz, you may know I was making a master for a 1/6th scale model kit of a Vincent Black Shadow 'bike. I sent the engine casings to Griffin Moulds in the Midlands and they utterly destroyed the masters, sending me back a back of fragments! No phone call, no e-mail, no note in the late-delivered (DPD) parcel. Now they have the cheek to invoice me! So I have been busy catching up with other stuff kept waiting for a while, sucvh as a 1/43rd scale brass master of a Triumph Model H 1915 'bike and a 1/32nd scale Vanwall Transporter. So I haven't even looked a t a model boat since the weather turned. And likely shan't much before May. Everyone have a nice Christmas. Cheers, Martin
Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉 Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎
Right ho. Change of plans. Tried some experiments with drawing on my deck planking and screwed it up after only 8 planks worth. I also tried just using pencil but the curved planks are just impossible to draw. So...what type of strip wood is best to replicate a weathered teak look? Where to buy it? How do I glue it to birch ply? What gap should I use for 5mm wide planks? How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Do I need to steam the planks? Should be enough questions for now, Steve
The boat is nearly complete now, the final part is to fill the deck with fill nets! I have found that the Heinz snap pots for baked beans are the perfect size! Top removed, sprayed and weathered and then a body buff has been cut up and stuck inside along with some twine. I’ve then painted the net to make it look dirty and some varnish to give it a wet look.. 2 down 1 more full one required and then a stack of 3 empties... but first dinner, and yes, it’s beans on toast for me!!!
Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Doug, Thanks for the links, just watch your YouTube clips and she runs lovely. I’ve seen that a lot of people have used those Turnigy motors so I might try one of them on my next build. I’ll read the blog over the next few days. What did you think if the kit as a whole to build, only asking as me and my sister have just purchased the Fire Crash Tender for our Father for Chrimbo. Thanks for all your tips, it’s much appreciated. I might try and get some clips of the classic over Gorleston pond today if the weather permits lol. Cheers 😉
The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, It still has to be glazed and fittings plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) It's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made In China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. It's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". In saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
[Score: 10/10] 24" Joysway Rocket Single Propellor Direct Drive to a 1700 kv Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) Batteries Controlled Through Hobbyking 70 amp (40Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a fun boat, self righting so can go out in all weathers very fast and handles great !!