Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
February 2018: 4 people
January 2018: 25 people
December 2017: 7 people
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 1 person


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (9)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > weight

weight
weight
Formers in-planking starts! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 hours ago
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!

2nd Gunwhale stringers by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Is this a kit, using kit wood? The parts look like they will add too much weight. Am I correct?

Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Many thanks Dave and Brian, I guess Brian's craft is much bigger and heavier than mine; 56x30 cm. Spec says weight 1.3kg with motors fitted but without batteries and RC gear. It came with a 9cm diameter 3 blade ducted fan, 13x? two blade thrust prop and a pair of 400 size brushed motors, the mountings for which limit me to 28/30mm diameter brushless. When I hauled the kit box down from an upper shelf to investigate I found the packing list and spares price list in both Deutschmark and Euro, i.e. circa 1999/2000!! Planning well ahead for the retirement 😉😉 In mine there are no rudders! The whole motor/prop mount is turned. Will see how it goes with that and maybe mod it later with rudders depending on how easy it is to control - OR NOT😲 many thanks for the tips 👍 Doug

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Depends what size really. I use one 11.1v 2200mA and get 20 mins. Easy to bring in and change to a new one. Weight is the main problem and using a bigger or two LiPos will be heavier. Whatever you choose is likely to be lighter and more powerful than an SLA.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I think you might need pointing in a direction, so I had a quick look on Hobbyking, and this motor is the sort of thing you can use, although this particular one would need you to swop the shaft around, this is just a guide, other s will no doubt add comment, its the right size, 5mm shaft, right kv and watts. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-g15-brushless-outrunner-... brushless esc https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-90a-boat-esc-4a-sbec.h... you don't need the high amp capability, but its reversing, programmable, water cooled, and has an sbec, so the main battery power this 5 mm shaft, move your motor to the centre section meaning weight distribution is more central, and you can now use a shorter shaft, and get a couple off plastic "x" props, I would say 40 to 45mm will be the one. This will give a good speed, and you can power on 3 cells or 4 cells lipo, get higher c rating (40c or more) and higher mah so you have fuel in the tank available https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-4s-40c-l... This is just a guide, a starting point, as I feel you are unsure where to start, others with more knowledge will come in regarding this, having experience with lipo, brushless, 3 foot ply boats, and esc's, depending on budget, this would be the sort of thing I would be getting.

Help needed, running sheet to main by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Ron Specs for the HS-82MG are Motor Type: 3 Pole Bearing Type: None Speed (4.8V/6.0V): 0.12 / 0.10 sec @ 60 deg. Torque oz./in. (4.8V/6.0V): 39 / 47 Torque kg./cm. (4.8V/6.0V): 2.8 / 3.4 Size in Inches: 1.17 x 0.47 x 1.16 Size in Millimeters: 29.72 x 11.94 x 29.46 Weight ounces: 0.66 Weight grams: 18.7 It is metal geared but may struggle as a sail winch. A single arm servo usually has an elastic band attached to the other end of the line (kite string) from the servo arm. So you run the line thro the hole in the cockpit coaming and take it to a pulley attached to the deck in line with the hole and near the stern. The line then runs along the deck and near the front of the coaming an elastic band is attached and run to a fixing near the bow. You then use a line with a bowsie to connect the mainsail to the winch line via a fixing on the deck below the boom. There may be other ways to run the line but the important point is to keep the line tight at all time to prevent tangling.

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave, thanks for the info👍 Gives me a shove in the right direction. For comparison with mine:- Roughly what length / beam is Brian's model? All up weight?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
big pair of molegrips on it, and twist😁 regarding the rudder, I use standard profile rudders, and cut them this way. The rudders are like brakes, and I was having issues on fast gradual turns the bow was coming down, almost digging in. Thinking it was weight displacement I spent ages messing around, until a friend suggested cutting down the front edge, gradually, and seeing how it went, this cured the problem, turns are nice and flat

Thurl pin rack by SelwynWilliams Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
We use thorl pins in wooden boats instead of rowlocks where the wood attached to the oar has a hole and the wooden cheek's weight counter balances the weight of the length of the oar. Interesting to know the connection with belaying pins and the quick release of the shrouds by knocking them out. thowel Thole Thole, n. [Written also thowel, and thowl.] [OE. thol, AS. [thorn]ol; akin to D. dol, Icel. [thorn]ollr a fir tree, a young fir, a tree, a thole.] A wooden or metal pin, set in the gunwale of a boat, to serve as a fulcrum for the oar in rowing. --Longfellow.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Too Powerful Brushless ? by canabus Admiral   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi I found this PDF on Graupner motors. Also the Hobbyking site shows the specs on a large number of their brushless motors. I am looking at replacements for two Graupner speed 600 7.2 volts for a mate. I found a D3530/8 1700kv on Banggood with the same 5mm shaft and more grunt, less weight(74 grams against 192 grams)and about a third the price!!! I am going to install one in a Sea Commander(34") with a smaller 2 blade 32mm CNC prop on 3S Lipo 3300mah to test it out. Canabus

Too Powerful Brushless ? by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. If so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! If you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an outrunner. 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris

Brooklyn Tugboat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Brooklyn Tug is 1:32 Scale. She's 39.1/2" L.O.A. x 9.5" Beam. Weight Estimated at 24lbs when completed! The Brooklyn was built in 1910 and owned by the New York Dock Co. She was steam powered all her life and was never converted over to Diesel. The Brooklyn was one of many railroad tugs designed to transfer railroad cars from one side of New York to the other on barges!

Free Plans by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
My Riva is launched today.31 ins long x 11 wide.cost approx £230 plus elbow grease. 9.2 battery 3.700. Plenty of lead fishing weights for ballast and fingers crossed.