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>> Home > Tags > weight

First test run by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
The best I can do is when I get a new battery put it in cross ways, the 3 sticks that I used for a test were already near the back, just length ways down the boat. I added some weights behind the rudder shaft that helped a little not these photographs. Some fettling needed next year when the season starts again. Cheers all

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi reilly, Possible, but I would only expect the motor load current to decrease the RX sensitivity if the battery is almost flat and the extra load pushes it below the failsafe voltage limit. John has already confirmed that the battery is/was fully charged. Cheers Doug 😎 PS testing without BEC is a good idea as it would confirm or eliminate the possibility that the RX supply voltage is collapsing and causing a Failsafe condition. I prefer separate RX batteries anyway, fewer surprises😲! Except in the smallest Plastic magic projects where weight is critical.

Layout and Limitations by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Brixham trawler IBEX by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.

First test run by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Decided to try it out Sunday, no major problems need a bit more weight in the back. Good turn of speed even with old recycled ni-cads from a drill pack. will be looking to get a lipo pack in the new year but pleased.

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Only way to see if it works is to make a test rig and hold the exciter in place to see what it sounds like. Don't use the glue pads for now just hold in place with light pressure. Radar should be ok weight wise. All batteries should not be charged in a model, ever! They all contain chemicals and if a fault develops or they leak explosive gases the last place they should be is in an enclosed environment. There are high power NiMhs that may be suitable as they can be had in different formations. Component Shop will make up a pack to your specs. If you rush the only thing being spoiled will be the boat!

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Understood you two (maybe three!) but you should remember that I am an only child, spoilt brat, therefore waiting is never the first or second option..................... I can live with not having smoke (sad) but I must have something else so probably radar rotating! I can understand not charging Lipo's in situ, but thought NiMh were so much safer? If not, that could be a way of reducing weight as has been suggested. Good news is that exciters have arrived ( incredible service) and they actually measure 2" or 50mm. Now there is progress. There is one space one rib back from the front of the motors that would not require surgery. Maybe not good from noise pick up but could be worth a try. TTFN NPJ

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
A detachable bulb keel will result in a more stable sailing experience. The further away the weight is from the centre of buoyancy the better.

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Not much room. I suggest you investigate light weight battery possibilities, but whatever you choose on no account consider charging in the hull, ever! The motors are probably lowish current but the smoker will be a big drain on the battery, do you really want this feature? Modern tugs in our environmentally friendly times do not normally emit smoke. The electronics are where you have identified. When you receive the exciters I suspect there is only one spot where the gap between supports is wide enough. For this to work the whole hull acts as the resonator and I am not sure what effect all those supports may have. When I was testing I just placed the exciters against the inside of my hull and tried different positions. You could try using the outside of your hull to see how it sounds. As regards depth you have not shown the marked waterline.... if you are referring to yourself I detect a willingness to 'boldly go'' so no. Perhaps best to hold back from Warp speed for now though!

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Should have said before, note when removing these screws, they are not all the same size so keep separate. Although they appear to stay in the deck, they do eventually fall out so, with them being so small, I removed them at the start by poking a small screw driver up the holes. Also when lifting the deck, it is attached to the bulwarks and requires very gentle separating if you are not to mark the hull. I used an old thin kitchen knife to apply some leverage at various points. You will find something like Vaseline, or light grease all, around the joint. I make note to replace this when rebuilding. First things I noticed, no receiver visible and only one ‘tray’, that being forward. Looks like a lot of space for ‘extras’. I removed the tray so far as I could without removing any of the wiring.Pics 8/9. I assume receiver and smoker is in the Wheelhouse/bridge and will need to check the wiring setup before going much further there. But that can wait until further down the line. Pic 10 What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. What can been seen well now are possibilities for the layout of new components that may end up in the hull. I am thinking larger battery, sound generator, escape/mixer etc. Pic 11. At this point I need to start considering weight, CoG, balance when planning a layout. Am I in too deep already! I did place the tug, with all its standard bits, in the bath before I started and marked the water line for a comparison! Next time I hope to be looking at 'lay-out' in the hull and sizing up the space some of the hoped for extras would need. NPJ

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi With my sailing pilot cutter Cariad, when the hull was largely complete I put her in the bath an put weights in until the waterline was reached. I then weighed the weights. I then tried to make the bulb keel slightly lighter to allow for trimming. I would make provision for the bulb keel at an early stage of construction. I didn't do this and it was a right pain! Good luck Edward

Brixham trawler IBEX by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi bellman, (from Doug BELL😉) This is another 'How long is a piece of string question'! Only way to find out is to build it, and do a payload test. Put weight in it until it floats to the waterline and upright and stable. I use chunks of lead and lead balls (fishing weights). Weigh the lead. Easiest way is to weigh the empty hull first, then again with 'payload'. Difference is your payload weight for the hull, including all equipment, decks, superstructure etc. Before you glue any other parts to the hull weigh them and subtract from the payload test weight as you go. When compete you should then know how much weight you have left available for equipment. Weigh the equipment; motors, shafts, electronics, batteries etc. Anything 'left over' is the ballast you need. Try to fit it inside as low as possible, the lead balls are good for final trimming. When all is correct simply pour a little resin over them to hold them in place. Only time I fitted ballast outside, a long steel bar keel, was on my U26 sub. But then U Boats had such an emergency 'drop keel' so it looked 'Right'! Happy building, Doug 😎

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Good morning Dave. I may need to cut away one of the hull 'ribs' on either side to get a flat area, but we will see. Busy week, but hope to draw out a 'layout' for those bits in the Hull and look at weight positioning. With using NiMh batteries, I am thinking that charging in the Hull may give me more flexibility with weight distribution. Could have choice to orientate Port/ Starboard then. Regards. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Yes Dave, I got in a bit of a knot there....................... I ordered from there, as not available in Europe from Hobby King, and managed to order the wrong ones................. TT25 yes but twice the size and twice the weight! They came very quickly and cheaply and I am today going to contact them to return and try again. What details do you have of yours that I my use to identify the ones I would like? All the best. NPJ