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Very nice vessel, well done. From the turning radius and stability, suspect the stabilizer fins operate. Would appreciate details; particularly dimensions and weight. Rather hoping my Damen Stan 4207 which is a similar craft will perform as well. That model is untried as yet.
Hi Alan, I'm relatively new to the hobby but the way I understand it is as follows: If you view your battery as a fuel tank, the mah value is the size of the tank, the bigger the number the longer the run time will be, the down side is the bigger the number the higher the weight. The C value is how quickly the battery can discharge/charge, the first of the two number is the rate it will run at all day, the second it the peak the battery can handle for a short surge. If you want faster acceleration I think the higher the number the better. If it was my money I'd be buying the 4400 mah 65-130C Cheers Wayne
Hi Wayne It's length is 1025 mm x width 460mm This is 1/4 scale as most Jet Sprint boats are about 4 + metres in length I will have to get a mate to help me turn the mould over to remove the hull as I've just worked out it's weight is over 100 kilos 😰😰 Bit too heavy for this old fella lol Cheers and thanks for your kind words Rod
I now have enough plastic to complete the Shamrock Police boat. thread here https://model-boats.com/forum/ building-related/27236 And Also now have some larger pieces seems these bits are scrap as well due to the fact they fell on the floor and nobody bothered to pick them up and just walked all over them. so they have little dents in them. That is no problem for me to fill as and when I need to. So having just made a small rhib for the Shamrock about 16 inches long I thought it would be nice to make a fully working one. So I started this one is 35 inches long without the sponsons. I have All the electrics for it already ( Hand me downs ) so no nothing to loose. So this could be the model that costs nothing to make and build. No Plans or drawings or templates and now under way. All constructed out of 2mm foam board plastic.. Held together with electrical insulating tape while the glue dried. I will have a bit of filling and sanding to do when it is a single solid piece. Now comes the part of working out some sort of rough scale for the completed hull. In the meanwhile forming the chines out of the same plastic but very thin strips. Not found any bright Orange paint yet but still looking . If all fails it will be a white rhib. I am thinking with the foam collar the weight of the electrics placed as low as I can get them I may need very little ballast As so far it is very light. Still as always another lets see how it turns out..
Thanks Dave, I applied my Black and Decker mouse detail sander to the hull, using only the weight of the sander. Turns out it has been epoxy coated, I have removed sufficient paint to see what is underneath it and there are 2 small areas where the wood is black and nasty. One consists of a few spots about half way between the bow and the stern, and mid way between the keel and the joint with the side skin, and the other is a line about 3 inches long and quarter inch wide running alongside the keel. The keel also seems to be poor on that side as well. What I really would like is a copy of the plans, so that I can see what I am dealing with. Nothing on E Bay! At the moment anyway. Chris
A recovery vessel is a good idea but a little complex. If your boat is stuck in weeds the second boat may do the same. A simpler solution, if the boat is not too far from shore, is a fishing pole and line. You can cast a fishing pole pretty far without much trouble. You need a liitle weight , keep in to a minimum and equip your line with a non-damaging hook. A dull treble hook with no barbs works well. Cast near and beyond the stranded vessel and work it over till it catches, then reel it in.
R.I.B completed, adding about another 1 oz to the vessel weight, also added the 4.5 oz as permanent ballast. Total model weight is now 156 oz. On review of many HMCC “Vigilant” pictures, note the top of the boot-topping can be almost coincident with the waterline. Decided the slight extra weight , beyond the 4.5 oz originally tried, will help raise the bow and have little effect on the stern draft, so left it as is. Sailed again in the portable pool and now consider the trim acceptable. The boot topping is visible for the full length of the hull; she sits very much like the full size vessel. Once the ice to leaves our local pond will see how well she performs in open water and what the run time will be. Have tried several approaches to making a R.I.B launch / recovery mechanism, but with little success. Seem to be able to either launch or recover using a single radio channel, but not both. Now decided to shelve this feature until inspiration strikes!
I am pretty sure it uses a 10 inch propshaft but one with an oiler would be far better than the stainless steel ones. I used a small brushed motor and it is quite nippy with a platic two blade prop at 35mm and I think the total weight when ballast is fitted weights approx 3 to 3 1/2 kg
Hi Commodore-H I suspect the model is on the heavy side. I saw a similar model at the E-Port show and it was heavy without any motors or batteries installed. This will be causing the symptoms you are experiencing. The u-tube post shows the same problem. It really needs to be constructed of very light materials. They do look beautiful but at the cost of weight.
I have proboat volere. It performs pretty well but, it makes a big bow wave and really doesn't get up and plane like I think it should. Has anyone performed any modifications? Bringing the voltage up by one cell o 9.6volts helps a little as does adding a little weight to the stern. Speed control is huge, and I know, can easily be replaced by a tiny mtroniks unit. Any other experience or ideas out there? 😁😁😁😁😜😜😜
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal. speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be fabricated locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras. I'm confused of; what size of servos should i use? How many servos? What size and type of battery? Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type? Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance
I have upgrade my Palm Beach to run BL 28mm Kehrer Jet Motor: BL Roxxy 3656-06 1800KV with watercooling ESC: Water cooled Aquastar 120A. Battery: 2 pcs. Lipo 3S 25C 3700mA for balance and weight Palm Beach from Billing Boat on it's first test at Vallensbæk Modelskibs Klub water https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=8qBwleXQQ3E Regards Carsten
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
It may be a transmitter/receiver problem or it may be in your drive setup that rears its ugly head once your on the water and your motor is under load. I had a similar problem with a twin motor setup which was fine out of the water but after 10 mins in the water I would lose drive to one or both props or one would slow down and just go round in circles (very embarrassing). I had no problem with radio setup so it had to be in the drive chain. I ended up changing both motors for ones with more armature poles, higher torque output and a different gear ratio. It also highlighted a problem with my first choice of battery which quite frankly were pants and used to produce similar symptoms as you describe. I now use Lipo power packs, they do have disadvantages but you can not knock the power to weight ratio. The main problem I was having appeared to be down to the 3 pole motors that were fine until they were under load, this caused the motors to overheat which in turn increases the current drain on the battery's, the net result is the motor starts to arch across the commutator and effectively becomes a dead short which in turn shuts down your ESC's or drains your battery's very quickly. As you probably know if this was to happen with Lipo's there would be no need for a smoke generator! Of course this only applies to brushed motors if you are using a brush-less motor then it will probably not help you.