Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
November 2018: 6 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 7 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (16)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > weight

A return to the hobby! by J. Barry Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a mtroniks 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any advice would be appreciated!

Brixham trawler IBEX by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
You don't have to think too hard about the keel position at this time as the bolt does not need to be central to the length of the keel. Just choose a rough position and do your hole in the hull. Later when you know more about how much weight you need and where it needs to be positioned you just make the keel to suit the rod position. Steve

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Edward Thanks - just one question, if your model is twice scale does this mean my tube should be about one inch behind the mast? I aim to complete the boat before testing the weight of ballast needed then like you, allocating most to the keel and some to 'trimming' Sam

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Samnewbie I have a Cariad which is wooden hulled at twice scale. I decided to use a false keel but as I bought the hull completed needed to retro-fit one. I agree with you! If you can fit the tube as early on as possible it will make life a bit easier. My keel needs to be about 12kg and the tube is a couple of inches behind the mast. I am still trying to cast the keel; I'm now on my fourth attempt! I have calculated the keel weight and plan on it being about 1kg lighter than need be. This will allow me to finely trim the boat up once complete. Good luck with yours. Edward

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi everyone, just hoping someone still reads this blog. I am just about to start building Cariad and have decided to take advice from this blog, and fit a detachable keel. This is my second build and first fiberglass hull so being careful thinking it through. it makes sense to design in the detachable keel before fitting the deck but clearly I can only measure the ballast - weight and position - once the boat is nearly complete. So id welcome some idea of the position of the false keel so that I can fit a tube now, and build the keel itself later. Anyone able to advise?🤔

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by petercbrown Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
It looks smashing on the bench. 😎😎 Look forward to seeing the project as it moves on. What will you use to weight the boat for trials?

top heavy sailboat by kitcar004 Apprentice   Posted: 7 days ago
hi got a sailboat it top heavy how do put more weight on the keel plz

Bluebird by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 27" Bluebird Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 2881kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ETTI (120Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a Touchwood static kit that my boy brought back from Coniston, it said it could be converted to Rc and had some sketchy drawings that were not very good. I decided to go brushless with it and lipo battery, was not an easy job as had to go it alone to find out C/G and drive set up. The kit was very poor with a twisted hull and resin parts that were far too heavy, I made some aluminium planing wedges and various other parts to save weight. This project took the best part of 5 years to complete as it would go back on the shelf as I got stumped for ideas then back off again as I found a bit more inspiration, overal it came out well and runs on rails with. Good turn of speed as you can see in the vid I posted.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Used a small 6 - 12 volt pump bought from E Bay. Have used windscreen washer pumps before, but they are relatively heavy and bulky. This was quite compact and light and were closer to my weight restriction.

MTB by ikseno99 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 22 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 36"/1200g MTB Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through tornado 20 amp ESC - Comments: A Deans Marine Kit. Flat Pack wood / ply. Made up to a nice model. Runs well, although it could do with a little more "bite" on the water As with all hard chine light weight boats it is prowl to windage. Good on still waters but rubbish with a breeze in competitions.

Your ideas on how to stabilize a flat-bottomed freighter. by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Think a bilge keel should be the first step. My next suggestion would be to add some of the ballast to a removable fin keel, bolted to the underside of the hull. This will increase the righting moment, but not the weight. This can be seen if you examine U Tube videos of cruise ships and liners. They have so much superstructure they are inherently unstable. Have built several freighters and always fit captive nuts into the keel or underside. These are intended for trunnion display mounts, but have always been prepared to bolt a keel on if needed. The nuts can easily be sealed when sailing.

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
More photos would help in particular the keel. Can you identify which parts of the keel are lead? If you can then you could just drill holes into it (as close to rear as possible) to reduce its weight. Keep drilling and doing buoyancy tests until you are happy then leave it to dry out before filling the holes with car body filler.

Your ideas on how to stabilize a flat-bottomed freighter. by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
After adding the needed weights to bring this freighter down to a loaded ship water line, the model rocks n rolls. It needs either a keel or exterior stability fins. What is your experience? Please share with us.

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by Xtal Seaman   Posted: 24 days ago
I have a 'WaterBaby' 25" R/C Pond Yacht built to a 1950s designed by Vic Smeed. I'd like to hear from fellow 'Water Baby' owners. One issue of interest is the keel weight which seems a little too heavy so the boat lies a little too low in the water. Has anyone made modifications to the keel? What is the best way to do this and how do you maintain good fore and aft trim?

Rudders and Propellers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎