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>> Home > Tags > weight

weight
weight
Ajustment... by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
Ah, where's the video! Call this episode weight test. And the next time you go don't forget the phone!😲

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
No power, no parks, no public, no weight. If however I had any of those, I WOULD insure. I once saw a pylon racer scream out of the sky and go THROUGH a lovely clinker built dinghy. THROUGH, mind you and into the mud tother side. Clean as a whistle., A few months later, a very happy dinghy owner was showing off his fully repaired and revarnished/painted small craft, thanking the unfortunate flyer for his wayward kite as he'd got a full rebuild off the insurance. That, not THAT long ago, was the 5 quid a year MAP insurance. No questions, no faffing, paid up a treat. Now if I were flying those projectiles, or anything that fast and that heavy in public I would insure. Now see what a clever circling back to boats I've done there Cheers, Martin

getting there by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
well, bathroom trial's have taken place, a few adjustments, i.e positioning of the battery for balance, otherwise no bad at all, sit's ok may need a little balancing with weights but the open pond will allow travel and view from all angle's, electrics are in and basic, old transmitter and receiver, a cheep ebay esc, new motors, shafts, prop's and rudders, all working together well, the rest is as mentioned "stuff" that I found in the loft, shed and junk room.

Which motor by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Neil I have a 49inch tug which uses a 540 motor with 2.5 to 1 reduction box. 3inch 4 blade prop, On 12 volts pushes along nicely and with a 7amp hour battery gives about 2 hours sailing, total sailing weight is 21 kilos. Cheers Colin.

Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

a bit more done by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Yes, I know what your saying about needing weight, I have yet to find out just how much, however I am intending to run it from a 12v7a sla, and with two good size motors, so hopefully I shouldn't need to add to much if any, the original hull design is supposed to have a curve right around the bottom, this proved to be unstable and would need even more weight, so I cut it of and made it a flat bottom. I only wanted to make a recovery boat for break-down's, this seemed like the idea solution, but I think I am getting a little carried away with it other than just "bunging it together".

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by boaty Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local model shop whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. It was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit. With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now. Boaty😁

a bit more done by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I like the flat bottom design! But they do tend to take more weight. Than traditional hulls. I have the Dumas San Pedro. She weighs in at 21 pounds! Needless to say I don't take her out much!

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

JANE by lesliebreame Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
yes, my mate has added a lot of weight on top compared with the original so consequently has ended up a bit lower in the water. Bob was firing up his Explorer next to me and couldn't get the radio to work as he had plugged the servo into the wrong slot!!

push tug.. by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Having put together a couple of "kit's" over the years, normally with fiberglass hull, I decided after having a electrical failure while on the local pond that I could do with something to retrieve a stricken boat, but with what and how, well after posing the question of what others do I decided to have a look about and found some idea's for a push tug, it seemed like the ideal thing and was something like I was looking for, I didn't purchase a kit, instead decided to build it myself... After making the hull according to the plan's, I looked at it and thought... na, that won't work. the plan's gave the hull a half moon shape, I found that it didn't balance well and needed a fair bit of weight due to the displacement, so I cut the bottom of and now is a flat bottom vassal, this sat better and stable in water.. I intend to run it on a 12v sla battery and two Mtroniks 600 motors... the deck and cabin has copied the general shape but a few changes to add features and suit the design that pop's into my head as I go... its coming along well I think... all materials are mostly odd's and end's, bit's I find and mixed wood except the deck's which I intend to varnish with white sides..

What do you do when... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Morning Doug Yes gotcha. I was thinking heavy magnet like a speaker magnet. OR arrange a relay with a double throw switch to reverse the current and hence the motor. Piece of P-ss for you mate.Just have enough weight to avoid tangles as you strip the line from the reel and fine synthetic string better than fishing line. It is less likely to be pinched in the roll on the drum. Also more scale.You may want a speed controller or esc perhaps. Or just rely on the gear ratio. An old brushed motor would do I think with about 4volts.You may still need a pawl to prevent the load stripping line when power is off the motor. I hope I tickled your little grey cells mon ami. Bon chance👍

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Couldn't wait! (curiosity killed the cat!) although it IS now 'tomorrow' here! Load test results: Taycol motor 235gm, lead ballast 965gm, total 1.2Kgm, and still plenty of free board to the projected waterline 😊 An' she ain't sunk yet! 😁😁 so shouldn't have any problems fitting her out, at least not what weight concerns. Space is another question 😲 'Nothing is impossible' so they say 😉 (Please don't mention Titanic😲) Tomorrow (or later today🤔) is another day or what? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

After fibreglass and primer coat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
So, the hull has been fibreglassed, and several coats of primer applied. What next? Mark the water line as seen on the PDF and photographs? OR Place model in water, load up with approximately the weight of servos, batteries, and other building materials? Paint exterior hull or wait till interior servos are mounted? Scratch building questions...

PROPELLERS by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Rowen, I agree with John 👍 Unless you have your own brass foundry the best we can do is turn the hub on a lathe, prefabricate the blades (making sure that they are identical form and weights!), cutting / milling slots into the hub and then solder - which is weakpoint Number 1! Then wonder why it runs rough and cavitates cos it's outa balance and uneven pitch😡 I suggest you leave it to the pros like Rabeosch who for about 15 bucks or so will give you a robust cast, balanced and highly polished scale or sports finished article. Weigh up the hours you will spend fiddlin' about against the price of a decent pro job. Especially if you need two or three the same for one boat. Only time I fiddle about is when I need small scale props for my plastic magic projects 1/72 down to 1/350! e.g. 4 for a carrier like Ark Royal or Enterprise at 1/350. There ain't nowt that small on the market. Cheers Doug 😎