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I have upgrade my Palm Beach to run BL 28mm Kehrer Jet Motor: BL Roxxy 3656-06 1800KV with watercooling ESC: Water cooled Aquastar 120A. Battery: 2 pcs. Lipo 3S 25C 3700mA for balance and weight Palm Beach from Billing Boat on it's first test at Vallensbæk Modelskibs Klub water https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=8qBwleXQQ3E Regards Carsten
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
It may be a transmitter/receiver problem or it may be in your drive setup that rears its ugly head once your on the water and your motor is under load. I had a similar problem with a twin motor setup which was fine out of the water but after 10 mins in the water I would lose drive to one or both props or one would slow down and just go round in circles (very embarrassing). I had no problem with radio setup so it had to be in the drive chain. I ended up changing both motors for ones with more armature poles, higher torque output and a different gear ratio. It also highlighted a problem with my first choice of battery which quite frankly were pants and used to produce similar symptoms as you describe. I now use Lipo power packs, they do have disadvantages but you can not knock the power to weight ratio. The main problem I was having appeared to be down to the 3 pole motors that were fine until they were under load, this caused the motors to overheat which in turn increases the current drain on the battery's, the net result is the motor starts to arch across the commutator and effectively becomes a dead short which in turn shuts down your ESC's or drains your battery's very quickly. As you probably know if this was to happen with Lipo's there would be no need for a smoke generator! Of course this only applies to brushed motors if you are using a brush-less motor then it will probably not help you.
HI Ed, have had a thought, try putting a powerful torch inside the hull, in a dark room you might be able to see were the light is escaping, i would not try the fillet of glue, this may just pass the problem down the seam, Dave M's idea of plasticard angle will not only fix the crack but reinforce the whole area, lot of hassel i know but with the weight of the hull it will only get worse with movement
Hi Ed I would probably use the back edge of a small chisel to gently scrape the paint from the plastic. To aid adhesion any shinny surfaces need to be gently scoured to allow the glue to penetrate the plastic. as you have some scrap you can see if MEK dissolves the plastic, if it doesn't it wont work. If it's PVC then you will need a PVC type glue as methyl ethly ketone is for plasticard type. PVC is usually used for guttering etc, I would be surprised if it was used for your model but it would explain the poor joints. As you can't get inside you will need to add a cover all round the boat over the join. You can get angled plasticard which would certainly help strengthen the join especially as it is carrying the 21lbs weight. The added benefit would be a neat edge all round. You can shape plasticard by heating in warm water and bending to shape. If you tape in place it will retain the shape when it has cooled. You might also be OK using your Z -poxy providing you roughen the angle and hull where they join. Dave
The outer hull area in all plastic. I can't add a fillet to her stern insides there's no access. Strange design of the transom! Her outer hull is made up of 1/8 plastic! I think it's PVC! What would you recommend I use to take the paint off without damaging the plastic? looks as if a trip to the local hobbyshop is in order. I need to see if I can find some "MEK's". I think in the case of San Pedro there's a lot of pressure from the weight she carries! 21lbs to be exact. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated, on how to go about scraping the hulls seam without nicking the hull. Any idea's.....
I had San Pedro in the bath a day ago, Just doing a seaworthiness test! I think she was in the water for about 5hrs, needles to say she took on about 4oz of water! I didn't realize until a day later when I picked her up to put her back in the water. I saw a water stain didn't pay to much attention to it. I went to turn on her running system. As you can imagine I had a look of dread, when I saw all that water and no pump to pump it out of the engine room... I took the batteries out, they suffered no damage. The electronics was pulled out and dried! I left the superstructure off so the engine room can dry. It will be a few weeks of drying, before I can try to access where the leak is coming from.😡😡😡 But I think it's all the weight she carries. 21lbs is quite a bit to carry! Oh, well I'll figure it out later...😭😭😭
Suggest try a mixture of old car wheel weights. The radial ones are usually good where they can be slide in and for more congested spaces use the square stick on ones. Most tyre companies are only too pleased to get rid of them. Leave them to soak in paint stripper, wash well in cold water and most of the old paint and adhesive will come off. The remainder can be got off with mechanical endeavours. Once located, saturate in glass fibre resin and they are fastened in for life. If they need to be removable use double sided tape.
I need to get a lot of weight into my Clyde puffer (approx 15ILBS) I have used a couple of old 12v lead batteries either side in the middle,have got a fair bit of room to play with at Bow end. Access to the stern is very limited and I need to get about 4ILBS in there as the prop is half out of the water. Any suggestions out there.
Hi Sonar Used to be very popular with the model Tug fraternity. I had two in my Eldergarth (4') and they worked fine. They are able to turn large coarse bladed props with ease and do not normally require any cooling. I used a couple of Electronize ESC's but any 20/30 amp make should be OK. They are not fast revving so most suited to Tugs, workboats, cargo vessels and fishing boats. If you have a fast boat they would not be suitable. Weight may also be a problem in smaller models
Hi Dave, That looks like a really nice piece of water! I have a massive appreciation for the work, skills & dedication involved in building & running accurate scale models. My fascination is with fast boats, K7 in particular & although the design is over 60 years old now, it's still a bit of a hooligan. It just didn't occur to me that someone with a boat like mine would be welcome amongst the scale community, at first scan through list of clubs there isn't anything on my doorstep, I'll have to increase my radius. My skill levels are limited but as they say every day is a school day & I'm picking up new knowledge & skills as I go along. The concern for me between IC & Brushless is on one hand add fuel & run for hours vs add batteries & run for minutes. 240+ amp esc's can cost the same as a half decent 30cc IC engine but to be honest for me the sound of electric motors is far more preferable to IC. I guess I need to take on as much advice as possible before I start splashing the cash. I'm certainly not pigheaded enough to ignore advice given, that's for sure. I've seen a video on YouTube of a guy building an aeroplane fuselage without a mold, by creating a blue foam plug & fibreglassing over it, once the fibreglass has been smoothed & filled it is split to remove the foam core, he ended up with a large lightweight fuselage that only needed minor bracing to make it strong enough to fly. This idea really appealed to me so I went out today and bought a load of blue foam, I'll have a go at building the sponsons first & see how I get on... Cheers Wayne
Repositioned 2/3 of the battery weight 8” sternwards into the only convenient location available. Rewired so the battery segments remain in series and the 7.2 volts operating voltage retained. Was able to retest and determined that adding 4.5 oz of ballast at the stern established a similar waterline to one of the pictures the model is based upon. Considered moving the remaining battery cells sternwards to avoid ballast, but this would be difficult due to the internal configuration of the model. The effect of saving the 4.5 oz ballast on a 9 lb model would have little discernible effect of the waterline, am thus reconciled to adding a small lead weight of up to this amount under the stern slipway. The next step is to complete the stern R.I.B and devise a launch / recovery mechanism. Whatever the weight of these item turns out to be will need to be subtracted from the 4.5 oz and become the final ballast weight.
Although we have had several signs of spring, the local outdoor pool is still closed. Our club was requested to attend a local boat show, using our portable pool, so took the opportunity to test the vessel as she is now almost complete. In an earlier post described that if the later additions could be contained within 2 lbs the model should be close to the correct waterline. This was determined by using weights balanced at the stern. So far, have added about 1 ½ lbs, but mainly around the mid section. From the attached pictures it can be seen that the bow is slightly low and the stern high. This suggests that by moving weight within the hull the correct balance can be obtained. If 16 oz is placed at the stern both bow and stern become correct. Am loath to just add ballast, prefer to rebalance and retain the current weight. Fortunately within the hull there is space towards the stern that can accommodate a heavy component. Had been reluctant to commit to either a stick or stack style NIMH battery, so decided to make one up using two plastic C type battery holders and individual C cells. See picture. The electrical system is 7. 2 volts, the cells were divided into 4 and a two cell trays. The heavier of these was disconnected and moved 8” sternwards. It is too early to finalize the weight distribution as have to build the R.I.B. and it's launch/retrieval system. Think that moving this 12 oz sternwards though the vessel should be close to the correct waterline.Hope to be able to check that shortly. From the stern picture a list to starboard is evident. This is easy to correct by moving the batteries slightly in the opposite direction. Although the pool is quite small, was able to test all the other functions. Scale speed was realistic and during a sharp turn little heeling is apparent. Everything else, bow thruster, fire hydrant, lights, radar scanner, fin and rudders work satisfactorily.
Looking good. 👍 Same construction method I used for my H Class destroyer. Appreciate the size problem, typical length to beam ratio of destroyers ca 9to1. Gives speed but affects stability. Where did I read quotes like "she rolls on wet grass"! I chose 1:72 for Hotspur giving 136x12cm to play with. Don't despair; I squeezed in 2x500 brushed plus switching for lights, 2 sound boards, loud speaker, smoke generator and rotation for radar and main guns. Sure you can get 2x385 motors, or small brushless in 😉 Keep the top weight down though, or with the Buckley's 8.4 to 1 length to beam ratio you might have a near heart attack on the first fast turn, like I did with Hotspur 🤔 Keep up the good work, look forward to the video .... Cheers Doug 😎
I agree with you on the metal fittings being too heavy. Three years ago when I restored an old 34 inch Crash Tender I bought a complete set of them and was surprised how much weight they added to the boat. I haven't got round to changing them yet but I am now considering it. Boaty