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Not liking to see a thread unfinished, here are the photos as promised of the finished planking. Lime planks (Ikea blinds) glued with super glue, black card for caulking, Teak edging, several coats of Halfords spray lacquer, wet and dry in between coats. Final coat rubbed down with 1200 wet and dry then cutting compound, and polished with car polish. Alan
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
First take a deep breath and calm down. Soldering is easy if your only using 2mm material I would get a reel of 60/40 cored solder. Use a decent sized electric soldering iron. Clean all your joints well ( use a fine abrasive like 600 wet and dry). Apply the iron to the joint then apply the solder remove solder remove iron. You made a joint repeat until you have done. Try not to burn yourself. Clean any flux with meths and an abrasive.
Now that the red oxide has dried and hardened it’s time to mask it off in preparation of spraying the upper hull black. First I had to very carefully flat back the ridge in the red oxide paint left by the edge of the masking tape that might prevent the new masking tape laying flat. I chose two types of Tamiya tape, the first is the very thin and flexible type to get the sharp edge and this was then overlaid with the wider flexible variety. Once this initial masking edge was established all round the hull and at deck level I could mask up the rest fully. As an experiment and to prevent any possible bleed through of solvents through regular newspaper onto my lovely red oxide anti-fouling I chose to mask with some ’Bacofoil’ which actually works very well for this purpose as it is quite strong and easily folded and formed to the hull shape. I didn’t use too much of this from the roll, and my wife never noticed it’s absence from the kitchen whilst I was nicking it …result ! The hull was thoroughly wiped over with a tack cloth and panel wipe to remove any traces of contaminants that could spoil the paint finish and then it went into the booth. The pre-warmed paint went on very easily but at one point I noticed a bit of blooming on the surface in a few places but much to my relief this soon disappeared. Even after only one coat the finish looked very smooth and glossy. I left this first coat for a day or two to fully harden before wet flatting it down with an 800 grade abrasive. The second and third coats were applied in the same way, each left to harden for a day or more before flatting with a yet finer grades wet & dry paper. With the final coat on the finish greatly exceeded my expectations 😎 The masking tape and foil was very carefully removed to reveal a very sharp line where black meets red although this will be covered with the white ‘Trimline’ tape I bought from SHG Model Supplies at the Bristol model show in the summer. After a further couple of days drying and hardening I gave the black paint a bit of a polish with some Halfords cutting/polishing compound. I’m extremely pleased with this finish and at the same time frightened to death that I’ll ruin it in some way with a clumsy knock or in the lettering and lacquering stages 😓 …
With the rubbing strakes fitted the hull can now receive two more coats of epoxy resin. The resin was mixed to the 30:100 ratio in sufficient quantity to coat the whole hull, and the 90 minute pot life meant that this could be done at a sensible pace. I found it best to apply a thin even coat and not to over-brush the resin, that way there were no runs and the brush did not drag, 'less is more' is always the case. The strakes absorb the resin quite well so they should be harder and more resistant to knocks. The resin was left to cure and harden for a couple of days before a rub down with a 400 grit wet & dry abrasive on a sanding block. The weave of the cloth is now fully covered and the resulting surface is remarkably smooth even at this stage. A third coat of resin builds up the finish layer and when dried resulted in a very pleasing mirror finish and the glassfibre cloth is now completely invisible! As satisfying as this shiny surface is it must be rubbed down to give a good surface for the primer paint to adhere to. I used a 1200 grit wet & dry paper with plenty of water to flatten and key the surface ready for when the painting process could be started.
The hull was prepared for fibreglassing, any pins are punched below the surface, filled and rubbed down with a fine grit paper. The wood does not need any sanding sealer applied as this will react with the epoxy resin. I cut the cloth roughly to size and shape and laid onto the bottom skin, the upper edge was lightly taped with masking tape to hold it in place. The resin is mixed to the correct 100:30 ratio and stirred well, the pot life is 95 minutes and will allow me to take my time to get this right. My previous test was very helpful in establishing a working sequence and I know how the materials will react when I start working them and how much time I have before the brush stops brushing and starts dragging the resin. The cloth is folded over to the other side of the keel and a thin coat of resin applied over the skin and the side of the keel and then the fabric is carefully folded back onto the wet resin. The resin immediately starts to draw the cloth to the surface and a very light brushing from the centre outwards helps to make it smooth and flat, the remaining resin can then be gently brushed onto the cloth so that there is an even coating. The cloth needed to be pushed up against the keel sides and I used a steel rule edge to get it into the junction of hull and keel. I decided to trim the cloth just at the bow along the line of the join in the skins whilst the rein was still wet so that I would have a clean butt join in the cloth in this region instead of an overlap, probably not really necessary as an overlap should sand down ok and that join will be covered by the chine stringer, but it seemed like a good idea anyway. I did a similar thing on the keel below the propshaft and around the skeg. This was done with a sharp new Stanley knife blade without disturbing the cloth and the excess cloth removed. Once the cloth is on you must resist the urge to brush on any more resin or smooth it out any more, this first resin coating only needs to be light as subsequent coats will build up and fill the cloth weave. I let it to cure overnight and the following day is still felt tacky so I erred on the side of caution and left it for a further day until it was entirely dry to the touch. The excess cloth was then trimmed back with a sharp blade. Caution, be careful because the cut edge of the cloth is itself very sharp, as I found out the hard way! Feeling quite satisfied with these initial results and a great deal more confident I repeated the process for the other bottom skin. At this rate of progress, allowing for proper curing of the resin, it will take 8 days just to cover all five faces of the hull with cloth alone, but a wise man said 'a job worth doing is a job worth doing well' 😄
Brilliant Rob !!! That is just the sound I am looking for. I am a rookie and sound modules are a new game to me. How would I go about capturing that sound and how is it done. The only thing different is that one has a wet exhaust and the boat I am building a replica of had a dry one but no matter, I'd go for that . Any info or advice would be very much appreciated. Do you have to ask for permission to use somebodies video ? What module is the one to buy etc. etc. etc.
Thats right Ed, once it is an even colour, no streaks, push it into position like using window putty, smooth it into shape with a wet finger, when dry, 24 hours, sand down to final shape, any dings or hollows re-apply, I sand mine with 600grit wet and dry used wet, not sure what it is called in the states, final smooth sand with 1000grit again wet Mark
mould the 2 parts together until the mix gets "sticky" then use it no worries about speed it sets fairly slowly. Wet tools smooth it out and once set, leave for 24 hours, scraping with a scalpel blade is as good a tool as any to shape it. After that sand with fine ( I use wet and dry (wet)) abrasive paper and if happy paint as required. Any hollows can be filled with a little more since it sticks to itself. The only thing its useless for is as a thin layer sticking 2 parts together. It is specified as safe in drinking water tanks ( and I have seen it used in a tropical marine fish tank). You may well gather I am a fan!!!!!!!!
The hull is in its final rubbing down stage after having three coats of white primer paint. This was then rubbed down using very fine wet and dry paper. It becomes like glass ready for the sea going paint Lee. Roy
if you want to use brass wire wound to make a shoulder , first heat the wire to a dull red ( gas cooker burner is fine ) then quench in cold water. It will then be soft as the proverbial. Polish it up with some fine abrasive ( I like wet and dry used dry). Now all you need is a former ( a little smaller than finished size required) wind around a couple of times and snip the loops off. You can then position the wire where required and "sweat" them together with soft solder ( back to the gas cooker). Brass and copper are both softened the same way red hot then quench.
HI Cororant, A tip whilst planking your boat. I do not know the planking layout so my advice will be general. First do any edge planking, Make card templates for areas that require a curved section. Join sections of planking edge to edge to cover the template and then traceround the template on your glued sections. Sand to obtain a good curve keeping the inside edge perfectly square or slightly undercut. Spray accellerator on the deck, apply CA1500to the underside of the edging. carefully position once accelerator has dried and roll down firmly with wall papering edge roller and wipe off any surplus glue with a dry cloth. Don't use a wet cloth oyerwise the glue will set immediatly and turn white. Complete rest of edging in a simular way. Cut and lay any other edging such as around a hatch cover, strips down the centre of hull etc. Now for the styrene strips to represent calking. Cut the strips of styrene wider than the thickness of your wood planking, they can be reduced with a sharp blade and sanded later . Start from the bow and lay the calking around the strips already laid. Only use a thin bead of glue and work on a few inches at a time. All done now for the main planking. Shape your first plank shaping it to fit snugly against the calking. Before glueing in place do a dry run and mark the deck where the plank will lay. Remove the plank and spray the back. Apply a small amount of CA1500 against the calking and another bead near the centre, do not apply any at the outside edge at this time. Fit the plank rollering it into place. Cut the next piece of calking strip and next plank and do a dry fit and again scribe the deck. Now apply CA 1500 to the 1st plank edge, and lay calking strip immediatly apply another bead to the inside of the calking and lay the 2nd plank pushing it hard against the 1st sandwiching the calking strip. Never apply CA to the outside edge of the plank before cutting the next calk and plank, if you do and it sets you will end up with residue glue setting that will then either set on the deck or sticking the next calking strip or planking whilst you are shaping it. IE. always leave the working edge dry. Complete process for the remainder of the planking. Hope this is of some help.
Lite ply, plasticard etc. can be bought on line with little problem. http://www.cornwallmodelboats. co.uk/acatalog/lite-ply.html I have used them and I get what I order no problem. As to scroll saws ~laughs~ I have never used one so no ideas if I have to cut normal ply I use backed saws ( razor saws are a godsend) a tenon saw is a must have. Cutting curves well I suppose a scroll saw would work but I hack parts out then shape them using a plane and abrasives ( I find wet and dry to last n last) files may not be a cabinet makers cricket but I use them if they seem to be a good idea. Dremel type cutting discs work. Sorry but I just do what I can with what I have, not ideal but I have fun and that is what its all about.
That prop tube exit looks a mess. I suggest you remove completely and refit if not too damaged. The angle is quite steep suggesting it aws used with an ic engine. If you do refit you could alter the angle to suit thy electric motor you are fitting, just make sure you leave enough room for the prop. I use plastic padding to set my prop tubes in place and if you wet your finger you can smooth the filler into a nice shape, prior to final smoothing with wet and dry. Super glue is good to hold everything in place whilst you apply the filler. Not sure about your depression. If the wood feels spongy chances are water has weakened the ply laminations so it may need cutting back to sound wood and a new piece fitting. I covered my hull in glass cloth and laminating resin to make sure it remains waterproof. Takes a bit of effort and time but you can achieve a very good finish. Looks like you are winning with the hull. It will be worth the effort. Dave